I'm working on a new MM quietly in the corner #5 - Orlando. FL
 

Greetings MM fans.
...pending my final dwg exchanges and release of cap rail modifications that are graciously being checked/verified by Gerald, I will start my build in the next couple of weeks. Of course, I have to get accounting to agree to let me spend company money! :) So, it might be month or so.

Parameters of build:[list][*]5' x 10' net cutting area[*]8" channel main beams[*]Architectural Alum / Hardened steel cap rail rail system[*]Gecko 203V drives[*]G100 controller (what the heck....sounds like a great challenge!)[*]Mach 3[*]PK296A2A-SG7.2 geared steppers (chosen to match 203v inductance per the forum)

Current projected cost's are $6818.32 US plus labor, plus tax.


Pictures and such will commence during the build.

See ya'll soon.
Sean

Sean, I think you are going to do very well! Well, . . . . . welcome! :)

Sean, check the Gecko forum on Yahoo groups for some information on the Gecko G100. The Rabbit controller is failing (without cause) on some units. Mariss has contacted Z-World, but an acceptable solution still hasn't been found. (Neither my G100 nor my G101 have given me any trouble, so I'm hoping that Z-World may have just had a batch of flaky modules.)

Mike,
I was following that thread as well. Thanks for being on the look out for me. My biggest concern was a few folks were having a big issue with the rabbit module a few months ago and loosing the tcp/IP connection and unable to reset the firmware. The most recent threads from Mariss seem to have fixed that issue. I really would like to use the G100, but I might just K.I.S.S. for now. I haven't purchased the Gecko components yet.

Thanks in advance.
Sean

The ordering has begun
 

...started Phase one of kitchen table. This is actually really fun. :)
Power supply - check
drive enclosure - check
PMDX-122 card - check
laser cut parts - check.

...Finish taxes that are due on Monday....Then back to ordering and such.
Sean

Sean, It feels like you are having a great time.:D

hey i will like to fallow this one close

Waiting on parts
 

All the kitchen products are ordered.
- motors
- drives
- contactors
- fuse blocks
- power supply
- e-stop pendants
............looks like next week will be a busy time for the UPS man!
Sean

what did you do for the main power switch ?

I see that the design shows a switch mounted on the rear panel, but the operator is to be mounted in the door.



Dave

switch
 

Dave,
I will din mount the 40a rotary switch on the rail and then match the mating half on the swing door in front. This is a very easy installation and will look very similar to Geralds MM control cabinet on the MM home page. If you want a quick look at the specs...AutomationDirect.com 40A/3pole/ with 200mm connecting rod and operator.
Sean

Thanks. I had seen the AutomationDirect unit when I was looking.

I have used DPDT relays rated for 10A before on my other units. (not MechMate).

Dave

Making Progress
 

Hello MM fans.
To date - everything for the kitchen project is ordered and I am anxiously awaiting delivery of Gecko's, Oriental motors and drive enclosure. I have made many runs to SKYCRAFT Surplus (yes, you can visit them online, but I have the luxury of going to their store and rummaging around the bins!) Anyway, since I am waiting for things to arrive, I decided to draft the table layout to verify all my steel dimensions and sizing for shop fabrication. Note, I am making the table as a "gated" perimeter w/ the spoil board purlins bolted in place. Since 3" channel is readily available in my shop, I have substituted it for all the pipe in the lower setup. I have attached a quick little doodle for review. Sean

See you have drawn it symmetrical. Remember that the router/spindle is likely to sit offset in the y-car and this has a huge impact on the table symmetry.

Those extra crossmembers between the legs may get in the way when you consider the symmetry issue, or when you maybe want to put in vacuum table piping.

What is the offset?
 

Gerald.
Nice catch. I was working from dwg 10 10 310 for the elevation of the table support legs and such. This appears symmetrical. What I don't see, is the offset distance for the channel -spoilboard- offset dimension. Did I miss it somewhere in the package? See drawing for location in question.

Hi Sean,

I spent some time looking for it as well. I finally found it in 10-10-300W. 3.9"

Good luck with your build!

Greg M

Found it
 

Greg,
Thanks for the quick reply. Yep...found it at the Centerline of the table. I see the 0,0 corner shift of 3.9" (100mm). Gosh - that's plain as day!

Gerald..if it was any clearer, I wouldn't have missed it :)

Of course, I probably shouldn't be drafting at midnight either!
Thanks.
Sean

The non-symmetry comes from having the router/spindle sitting next to the dust hose. Blame the dust hose! :)

Spoil board & Table revision
 

Gerald.
Thank you for the observations. I have revised the doodle for comment. I have moved the spoil board by 3.9 inches and adjusted the leg base for future access of vacuum table - which I will install asap.

Just like all good designs...you have to go back to the original to get it right!

....note, almost all of kitchen table project is in. Waiting on enclosure and motors to arrive, but I have everything else on hand. The shop started cutting steel for the gantry yesterday.

Sean

That's more like it!

There is a cyan line in the front view, just under the "purlins", running x-direction . . . . . does it mean anything?

Gerald.
No, errant construction reference line that is on the wrong printing layer. It's now turned off. Oops...drafting mistake. :)

Chrismas in October
 

I feel like Steve Martin with a new phone book!
...Just checking my layout with all the parts and enclosure. Finally, UPS delivers the goods!
Sean

Sean I was wondering if I could come and check out your build when you are done. I am over in Tampa and frequent up to Orlando for the theme parks. I have never seen a large cnc in action and would like to pick your brain and have a good look over the machine. I'll even bring the beer:)

Russell,
You or any of the MechMate community may come by my facility at any time when the build is complete. As I mentioned to the forum, I am building quickly. The steel order went in today! Controller is in fabrication. Hopefully, I will be done in about 4 weeks.

Sean

Thanks Sean, One month is alot quicker than my timeline. That would put you around Thanksgiving time for being finished. Goodluck and I'll be watching the thread. Russell

More Parts
 

Just in....
Laser cut parts from Donald - thanks again...they look perfect.
Igus Chain from EBAY (box lot of 16'-0" with 2 brackets
K2CNC #7518 mount - EBAY
Dell computer - EBAY
Final wiring components to assemble drive cabinet - skycraft surplus.
Attachment 505

Attachment 506

Attachment 507

Sean what do you think you have so far into the project money wise. Its amazing what acouple of phone calls can do as far as price goes from one shop to another. Tried to price all the steel today but I think I have to go in a little more educated for the type of quality and hardness.

Steel is cut!
 

Steel all cut and laser parts in. Looks like I will have a busy week in the shop!
Gerald, you may notice the 45 degree angles on the small channel. I was able to optimize my yield with that extra 2" per cut! Now it's off to de-scale the steel before clean and marking. Sean
Attachment 515

Attachment 516

Attachment 517

Russell,
To date I have spent 5K and only have the rack and pinion left to purchase. So, All said and done, I will be right at $5,500 with a complete 5x10 machine. That includes the *new* computer, screen and software.

Not bad at all you should be able to earn that back in no time at all. Where were you able to save the most from your projected budget?

To date the big $$$ saves are as follows:
"new computer" $142 with XPpro (I had an extra 17" flat screen monitor at the shop)ebay
K2Router Mount $50 ebay
IGUS chain $120 ebay
Wire and control box electrical components - skycraft surplus (about $500 savings) *they are local to Orlando, but can be reached online.
Steel on hand (did not have to purchase 2x4 rect tube or pipe)
Mach3 license on sale at CnC4Pc for $139.00
Use ground MM rail option and NOT cap rail as previously budgeted (about 312.00 savings)
So, in summary - being thrifty and shopping on Ebay saved me about 1K in total.

Table almost done
 

Here is a couple of pics to show what I have been up to for the past 24 hours.
Sean
Attachment 527

Attachment 528

I added a small detail for future use. If you notice, I drilled the 6mm pilot hole thru both legs. This will allow me to 1) pilot hole from underneath the table to the MDF spoilboard in place - while I have the rest of table clamped square. 2) I am going to TAP these lower leg holes 5/16 so I can attached the vacuum plenum underneath the spoil board. Just thought I would share my thinking.
Gerald, For what it's worth - yes the drill bit did skid while drilling into the beveled edge, but it was very consistent. I only had to deal with about 1/16" of deflection in centerline from the top ledge hole.
SeanAttachment 529

Sean,

Did you drill both at the same time so that you only had one setup?

Can you elaborate on your vacuum design / thoughts?

I use vacuum clamping and gluing a lot and I am very impressed with how well it works. (Maybe I'm easily impressed:p). I would love to hear your concept.

Thanks.

Marc,
I did drill them at the same time. Actually, I drilled all the holes at the same time with a small 1/4" bit and then step drilled 1/4, 3/8 then 9/16" ends. To maintain the tight tolerance on the beam geometry, I drilled the main X beams with a 1/2" dia and the cross members with a 9/16" I was able to maintain a perfect parallel alignment on bolt up! The key to drilling was a really good layout - THE TAPE METHOD WORKS VERY WELL - and a very sharp center point punch to mark with. I know Gerald mentions this on the drawings, but to achieve a consistent layout on structural steel one must work from Centerline dimension and not from the end of a piece steel. Those 1/32" of an inch in cut variation can add up in a hurry! I had to have a quick class on layout dimensioning with my employee's to remind them of that! I hope to have the table completely welded my Monday morning. Then I have to flip it! Anyone up for helping? I'll bring the coffee & donuts. Sean

Vacuum Table plenum box detail
 

Attached is a little detail of the vacuum table plenum I plan on using for the MechMate. This is best built with the MechMate for you to practice on your part making/cutting ability!

We have a crude holddown system that is mainly used for flattening wavy boards. 40mm [1.5"] pvc piping that penetrates the table at 8 points. No valves - all 8 points tee'd to one vacuum motor (ala Fein/Shopvac). A bit of a bowl is routed out around the mouth of each table penetration.

The valving, or turning on/off of each point is extremely high-tech. The secret is revealed here. Ssssh, please don't tell anyone else. ;)

Sean,

Are you planning to make it out of melamine for the sake of airtightness or MDF and simply paint it. Also, if you are going to silicone it to the spoil board, I assume that you are never going to fully replace the spoil board. Just surface it down to a specified thickness and glue another layer of MDF to it (using the vacuum). Also, is your manifold going to be on the end or the side? What are you going to power the whole thing with?

Gerald,

how well does the Fein do? I am personnally only familiar with the little vacuum pumps used for vacuum bagging and gluing. I have some pucks that I also use for clamping. I don't have any experience with large area clamping.

The first time that I attached a puck to MDF and could pull a vacuum through to hold another piece of MDF, I couldn't believe it.

This is another whole can of worms . . . . . how long is a piece of string? :)

We don't have a Fein "Shopvac" - we do have some other Fein tools and they are top quality. There is one particular model of Fein "ShopVac" that the SB'ers rave about, think it is the Turbo III, but Fein also has some models which nobody raves about. So, let's not help the myth that all Feins are fine.

The Fein that is so popular has a reasonably good performance on paper, in terms of suction pressure vs volume, but the major outstanding feature is the sound deadening. It is a very quiet "ShopVac". So, if noise is a major feature in your specs, get the Fein. Otherwise, you could get a naked vacuum motor and have the same performance. Our system is based on a generic vacuum motor.

Marc,
A couple of notes:
- most likely 3/4" 7/9 core ply - because I have units of it and use it on almost everything I build.
- silicon is easy to reseal if you have to reseal the boxes to the Spoil board. Of course, A really good silicon based weatherstrip would probably work as well too.
- remember, I am attaching the vacuum plenum's to the steel. Once they are placed, removing them is easy. So, replacing the spoil board from top side is fairly simple. I am going to use capture nuts on the steel (or tap) so the spoil board can be replaced from Topside.
- Shop vac's work well, but I will most likely buy a surplus vacuum pump motor to get the adequate suction (about 12-14mm HG) a normal shop vac creates about 5-6 on a good day. Shop vacs work, but they are loud.
- additionally, a vacuum pump in line with manual gate valves, is easy control. The motor is small enough that you can put it in a "blimp" box..which is a fun name for an insulated enclosure to reduce db.
- I am only vacuum boxing the 5' x 8' are of the table. The last 2 ft is for indexer and "fun stuff to try with a router table" My experience tells me that the surface area of 40' is plenty to hold down the last 2' unheld by vacuum. Plus, the rare times I am actually cutting material that large, a big G clamp is sufficient.
- note: if you glue down an additional layer of MDF to the spoil board, you risk sealing it's porous properties...then you will have no vacuum hold down at all. I have made that mistake before and couldn't for the life of me figure out why the board wouldn't stay on the table. :-/

Hope this helps...Gerald, if the forum wants to continue this, can we move the vacuum stuff to the other part of the forum for ease of the rest of the members to find it? Just my 2 cents.

Sean I have the same questions as above to with maybe some advice. From you photo's it kinda looks like you making boxes inbetween each C channel that goes the length of the of the y. I only suggest that you install some bracing going the lenght of the x across the y axis. I would do full pieces with lighting holes glue and screw them in. The braces do not need to be air tight but I would bring them up to the underside of you spoil board.

I mention this because if you are able to pull 2.3hg over a 12"x48" area you will be pulling 1psi, so in reallity you would be placing 2,880 pounds or a car within that area. 2.3hg is not hard at all to achieve seeing that over on joewoodworker.com and the zone people are able to get 17hg to 21hg.

Some good links about vacuum
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/va...ter-d_460.html
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...tml#woodworker
http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/welcome.htm

The build is looking great.