Who signs for it? Does he set the pad down on the ground and slowly backs away?

Yeah, you tackle one delivery person and you get a reputation??
But he had a box of Gecko drives!
Not sure what drives you used on your build (or what others thought), but I was shocked at the size of the 203V. For some reason, I thought they would be bigger. When I got the box, I even asked "Is there a second box"? "Maybe, they sent a partial order"?

Another question on the power supply. The transformer puts out the "main" voltage for the motors, but also supplies 12v and 18v. I assume that these will be output as AC voltage?
Is that correct or does it need to be rectified to DC for use with relays, etc.?
Thanks
Mark

It would be ac voltage without a rectifier. My power supply has a couple of capacitors, an ic (a regulator I guess) and a small bridge rectifier.

Looks like 2 1000uF 35V capacitors wired in parallel and a 2A bridge rectifier is what Antek sells as an add on module for a 24v system. Do you think that would be ok for 18v and 12v? One module for each voltage.
Mark

Sound about right to me.

Well the PS is done and working well! That's the good news.
I have hooked up the "Kitchen Project". The output voltage of the PS is correct at 55.4VDC. The LED for the drive (Gecko 203V) is on. I also hear the motor "power on" and become rigid (Kelinginc 8 wire, wired Unipolar). The BoB (PMDX-126) tests ok (this is the board only test, apply power and the correct LED's light and go out as expected). However, when I have everything hooked up (PS, drive, motor and BoB) and use the on board test (which should start and stop the motor) I get the LED on the E Stop to light. The board ships with a jumper on the E Stop to ground (which is in place and I buzzed for continuity). All jumpers and DIP switches are factory set ( I think that puts it in Normal Mode). I am at a loss on this issue? If anyone has any input or ideas, I would appreciate it!
If you need any other information, please let me know.
Thanks
Mark

Print a copy of the pmdx126 manual, read thoroughly, read thoroughly again, Follow the instructions for the normal test mode and run several tests, then step by step change the set-up to at least a starting point at which you will have basic real operation. Make a serious attempt at documenting a schematic. Once on the machine tweak to your liking.

Yes have manual.
Have been reading for 2 weeks.
In normal test mode.
Have tried to run on board test many times and changed to other terminals on the BoB.
But no motor movement...just a red LED for E Stop?
Just not sure what problem could be.
Mark

Do you have the jumper still on the estop? If you connect a Normally Closed Estop button to the board or just use the jumper wire should be fine. The estop is triggered by the open circuit. Also check to see if the status LED is flashing any code (like 3 short flashes,short pause, 3 long flashes), if there it is flashing look up the code and make corrections. If no flashes then its your Estop circuit.

Yes, I still have their jumper in place. That is what's odd. I don't have any E stop switch or wiring...just their jumper? No code flashes, as I get an immediate E stop fault. Then the BoB resets with no faults, until I press test again...then same thing.?

Been there, IMHO, its RFI/EMI playing their trickery. Unfortunately, I neither have solution nor explanation for this occurrence.
It never fail to happen whenever LPT BOB of any kind is wired for E-stop feed, its almost always trip if de-bounce is not provided, even if it doesn't show immediately, it will eventually.
I avoid E-stop feed to the BOB if I can help it. Even though its theoretical correct thing to do; Its just too much hassle...

*ps, this applies to Mach 3, Linuxcnc is less of a problem.

I am not sure I understood all of that?
I am doing this on the bench (no motors on the machine yet). So my wires are only 12" long (and are not shielded, as I read you don't need them to be for the kitchen project...perhaps that is not correct?). Should I use shielded wires? If so,use them on the phase wires from the motor? (Currently using the wires from the motor directly into drive). Or shield the step, dir, common ? How do you not use the BoB for a E circuit?
Also, planning on using Mach3...but again at this point no computer..just the on board BoB test.
Thanks
Mark

Forgot to add...I don't know what you mean by de-bounce?

If you are not E-stop feed, then you don't have to worry about this.
Why fix when there are no proplems. :)

If we can't figure it out you can always call PMDX and talk to Steve. He is excellent at helping you understand what the devise should be doing and how to get there. Before you do that though let's look at what you've got set up now.

What are the DIP sw's set at now? And what pins are the stepper(s) connected to?

You nailed it Tom...DIP settings. I thought I had them set, but my notes were wrong. Spent a good 12 hours over the weekend. Spent 2 mins. on the phone with PMDX/Steve today...and Ihave a working kitchen project. Big thanks to Steve at PMDX, great customer service!.
Thanks for the help here too!
Mark

I thought so.

That almost sounds like I told you so :D
Is the first thing you to when you wake up is check the MM forum?
Just noticed the 4:30 am time. What ever the time...I appreciate it!

No, just had a path of resolution in mind, first was the dip switches. Early bird gets the coffee :)

Charge Pump on?

Quick question, is it a good idea to keep the motor wires as short as possible (I mean the ones that are hard wired to the motor), since they are not shielded?
Mark

My suggestion is to use only shielded wire for the steppers and the VFD motor if applicable. The length of the wire will not add to the noise if it is present unless you are storing it in a coil.

Hi Pete...yes, I am using only shielded wires through out...but the length of wire that comes attached to each motor is fairly long...I just wondered if most people cut them short (because of there lack of shielding).
Also how the heck do I change the heading of my thread...I haven't had x or y questions in quite some time :)
Mark

The flying leads you are referring to? If so, it should not be too much of a problem. If you are concerned, you can wrap them with aluminum and make sure it contacts the drain wire. I left mine at the 18" it came with.

Changing the title of your thread, PM Metalhead. I haven't cut out lady bug puzzles for a long time either so I know what you mean

Thanks for the help Pete...hope you (and all who celebrate it) have a Happy Easter!
Mark

And a hoppy bunny day to as well...:)

Regarding the bracket to hold the end of the tension spring on the z axis (not the motor mount end of the spring). Does that need to be longer or do you use a different spring here than you do for the other springs?
Mark

The plans show the z-axis and spider mostly center of the car. If you move the spider forward in car or back...this will make the spring needed either shorter or longer. I waited until I was done and measured what was left...then went to the hardware store.

This all depends on your motor mount and drive system you use. My 4:1 reduction is longer than most so I opted to use the spring at the top end. This lengthened the spring a good deal so I had to figure out what the new holding strength requirement for the new spring would be. I had to do almost exactly what Sean said and accommodate for the new layout. That is the beauty of the Mechmate. Flexibility!