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-   Construction started, but not cutting yet (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=77)
-   -   100" x 160" - Trondheim, Norway (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1467)

mrloeng Sun 01 March 2009 09:39

100" x 160" - Trondheim, Norway
 
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Hi!
I have been here in the forum a little time now, and has just started this project.
I have now ordered stepper motors and drivers from MotionKing, so now I'm going! :)
A little about myself, I am 34 years old and working with CNC machines in Norway.
Work in a company which is producer of damped tools for applications such as milling, turning and deep hole boring.
This tools are used all over the world, producing components used in cars, aeroplanes and the oil and gas industry - to mention a few.
Looking forward to the day I will run my own cnc machine.
Thanks for your help so far! :)

Here are some photos of the machine I'm working in now:

Rad Racer Sun 01 March 2009 14:11

Svein,

Welcome to Mechmate! Be sure to read the threads....many experienced builders and users, tons of good information.

Looks like that lathe would be perfect for making your own V-rollers :)

Wayne

dragonfinder1 Mon 02 March 2009 14:32

Svein

Welcome aboard.

The size of your future MechMate seems pretty large to me. Everyone builds one to suit their needs. Mine for instance is for cutting Baltic Birch ply which can come as large as 60" x 60". I also need room on the end for dove tails, that's why mine is 60" x 120".

Might I ask why you chose the size you did?

Dave

mrloeng Tue 03 March 2009 12:23

Hi!
I will build so big because that I should cut pieces of large aluminum plates. And I may have jigs mounted on the table without that I need to move them to run larger parts.

Yes Wayne, can make big V-rollers in that macine :)

mrloeng Mon 16 March 2009 13:27

The first component is finally here!
 
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Sixteen days after I ordered the engines and drivers from MotionKing, they are home to me in Norway!
Was a little surprised when I saw the drivers, it is cooling fan behind the drivers! Great!
Engines and the drivers are from MotionKing.
Step drivers: 2H090MK
Motors: 34HS4801

Now I am waiting for PMDX-122.
Great to get started!

javeria Tue 17 March 2009 10:28

WOW - finally were are going to see a non gecko controller - it will be fun to get it working -

RGDS
Irfan

Gerald D Tue 17 March 2009 11:44

There are quite a few non-Gecko's on the MM's in Brazil & France, but this will be the first Asian stepper motor drive we see.

mrloeng Wed 18 March 2009 13:37

Do I get the drivers work........
 
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The big question is, do I get them to work! :)
I hope I do not burn the whole stuff! :)
Must be careful that everything is connected correctly, before power on!
There are many adjustment possibilities on this drivers.
I look forward to the rest of the electrical components are comming, so I can begin connecting!

Gerald D Wed 18 March 2009 22:55

My first suggestion for the switches:

Switch #1 = 0
#2 = 0
#3 = 1 (for 8 micro-steps (close enough to Gecko 10 micro-steps)
#4 = 0 (if not using a gearbox, you can use 16 micro-steps)
#5 = 0 (Mach gives pulse and direction signals)
#6 = 1 (to keep motor cool while it is not moving)
#7 = 1 (2.6 Amp)
#8 = 1 (add 1.3 Amp to the 2.6 gives 3.9 Amp. Motor 34HS4801 is 4.0 Amp)
#9 = 0
#10= 0

mrloeng Fri 20 March 2009 08:44

Thanks for info.
Have thought a little on what settings I should start with.
But your tips look good.
Perhaps it is wise to start with some low A, perhaps 2A.
And increase if needed.
As you write, maybe I must adjust up to 3.9A.

Gerald D Fri 20 March 2009 09:24

It should be okay to start at a low current on the kitchen table, but don't forget to increase it when you get to the big machine. Always check the temperature of the motors when you increase the current.

Richards Fri 20 March 2009 10:59

I did a Google search on 2H090MK and found the http://www.yx-motor.com/STP%20DRIVER%202H090MK.htm site.

On that site, they have some documentation about the stepper driver.

You can set the driver to 10-step microstepping by setting:
SW1 = 1
SW2 = 0
SW3 = 1
SW4 = 1

Set the driver to pulse/dir mode by setting:
SW5 = 0

Enable auto current reduction by setting:
SW6 = 1

The 34HS4801 motor can be wired bipolar series, unipolar (half-coil) or bipolar parallel. The motor is rated 4A unipolar, which means that it would be rated 4A X SQRT(2)=5.6A bipolar parallel or 4A X (SQRT(2) / 2)=2.8A bipolar series.

I would wire the motor unipolar (half-coil) to start with and use the switch settings that Gerald posted.

mrloeng Sat 21 March 2009 04:00

Thanks.
Now I have a little more background before I begin connect.
How hot can motors be without taking damage.
Thinking buy a laser temperature gauge, so I can easily control the temperature.
Check the link, an example of a temperature gauge.
In Norway it costs approx. $ 40.
http://www.directron.com/mtpro.html

sasko Thu 16 April 2009 08:34

Svein,

can you send us picture of your Power supply?
2H090MK is using AC current, so you probably put just toroid transformer and Capacitor? :)

Gerald D Thu 16 April 2009 08:58

Just toroid . . . . . . no capacitor (nil capacitor)

mrloeng Fri 17 April 2009 11:34

Hi!
I have not purchased the power supply yet.
Has been taken with the design of the machine I will build.
But I must get started to buy the power supply soon.
So I can run my engines! :)
Only toroid transformer yes.
I can connect the AC on the drivers and every thing.
Coming with more info here when I have something ready.
Has been taken with the construction in the past.


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