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-   -   The starting points for building your own MechMate - selecting table size, etc. (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63)

jeep534 Mon 19 May 2008 08:20

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
Darn, the caps were going to be so easy - my neighbour is a CNC embroiderer and he owes me lots of favours. :)

Paco, I am trying to get a costing together that will make sense to someone outside of Cape Town. This actually means coming up with a shopping list that can be used in America. But I have to figure out if you guys buy screws and springs at the Home Depot, or at MacMaster Carr - that makes a huge difference on costing!
Fastenall usually www.fastenal.com

Happy Hunting
archie =) =) =)

tpworks Mon 19 May 2008 19:56

http://www.norbord.com/MDF_PS_Thickness.htm
MDF in sizes up to 5' x 18'
pre-cut studs are 92 5/8 with 2 top plates and one bottom for an 8' wall (actually 8' 1-1/8" tall)

duster Sun 22 June 2008 13:22

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald_D View Post
The very basic thing to do is to decide for yourself what size of MechMate you want to build. You need to pick your own X,Y table (or board) dimensions that you want to achieve and then my drawings will say "cut the rack to length Y plus 150mm" or something like that. The basic MechMate design will work with a fairly wide range of x-table_lengths and y-gantry_widths, but a narrow range of z-slide_heights, being essentially a machine for processing board materials...

Which brings us to the point that you need to know what size boards you want to process, and indirectly, what board you want to use as the table surface. Then you need to decide if you will have twin routers and how far apart they will be in the y-car. The plans will focus on a single router sitting off-center in the y-car, with a big dust hose using the space that others might eye for a second router. But I will give a priority to those building a MechMate similar in configuration to what we built in 2005/2006.

Back to board sizes....in South Africa, MDF is sold as 2750mm x 1830mm boards [9' x 6']. Masonite, Melamine-face chipboard and lots of other stuff also comes as "nine_by_sixes". Plywoods are not that popular, but they come in smaller sizes in any case (2440mmx1220mm or 8'x4'). Apparently the board sizes in America are narrower and gantries can be limited to 5 foot, but here, and in Europe, a 5 foot gantry is too short for most work.

In the plans, I will give dimensions of rails, racks, gantry beams, etc. as X_plus_1234 or Y_plus_567 where X and Y refer to board size. The MechMate will be capable of moving 50mm [2"] more in all directions. ie. a 100mm [4"] diam cutter will travel just clear of the spoilboard, while a smaller cutter can have up to 50mm [2"] breathing space off the edge of the support/spoilboard. (Only valid for a single router).

Out of curiosity, what board sizes will you guys want to be cutting?
board size 1250mm x 2450mm typ but occationally would like to cut 1550mm x 1550mm

PEU Tue 05 August 2008 16:04

Typical Argentina Sizes (mm):

MDF: 2600x1830
Melamine: 3050x1080
Chipboard: 2820x1830 and 2750x1830 (Aglomerado)
Fenolic Plywood: 2440x1220 (Multilaminados Fenolicos)
Ureic Plywood: 2200x1600 (Multilaminados Ureicos)

Source: http://www.sacheco.com.ar
The prices in this site are in pesos, today exchange rate: 3 pesos=1 USD


Pablo

servant74 Tue 04 November 2008 18:19

How much 'extra' width needs to be added to do 2 heads instead of one and be
able to cut the entire desired width? I am in the US, and would like to be able to cut 49 or 50" wide material, but to get both heads to cover the entire width.

Thanks, Jack

bradm Tue 04 November 2008 18:48

I'll take a quick crack at that; someone will correct me if I mess up.

Two heads mounted in the same car, or two cars? For two cars, add the entirety of the car width, so about 17.5". If you plan to mount two spiders in the same car, then it depends on how you mount them; you need to add the distance between the centers of the spindles/routers, plus the diameters of the largest cutters you will have in simultaneous use. As a working approximation, the centers will be 7-10" apart, plus two 1/2" cutters, and you've got between 8" and 11" of extra needed.

But don't take my word for it, spend some time with the drawings until the visualization pops into your head. It'll be well worth it when you're doing the build.

Gerald D Tue 04 November 2008 22:16

Brad, you got it about right (except for adding cutter allowances - they are there already).

Two gantries on one table (add about 850mm to table length -), each with two y-cars (add 450mm to gantry length/table width), each with two z-slides (add about 240mm to table length) will give you 8 tools on the same table! :D
. . . but you may end up with 24 motors/geckos :(

The z-slide was designed so that 2 of them will go into the Y-car, back-to-back. If going that route, you will have the following challenges:
- dust hose route
- maybe a second motor on the back of the y-car for heavy duty cutting on the "back" z-axis, which raises its own challenge:
- rerouting the y- cable chain, or getting the cable chain to wrap around the second y-motor.

bradm Wed 05 November 2008 09:48

Doesn't two z-slides add to gantry length/table width, not table length?

Wouldn't 8 tools be 2 (x1) + 2 (x2) + 4(y1,y2,y3,y4) + 8(z1,...z8) = 16 motors (20 if you double up on the Y cars)? Heck, that's only four or five G540s ;)

Or is this an indication that you're dreaming up a mobile hexapod mounted on six articulated legs?:D

domino11 Wed 05 November 2008 09:51

Brad,
I think Gerald meant if you had two gantries, you would have to add to the table length so that one gantry can be out of the way so the first gantry can access all of the cutting area. Two Y cars would have to add to table width (or Y axis) so that both Y cars would be able to access all of the cutting area as well. So if you have two gantries each with two y cars, then you would have to allow extra width (y axis) and length (x axis) to allow all the cutting tools access to all of the cutting area.
Did I get it right Gerald?

This sounds like an interesting machine. I guess you would not have to change tools very often. Dust collection would be a nightmare though. :eek:

Gerald D Wed 05 November 2008 10:24

2 Attachment(s)
Standard - one z-slide:



Twin z-slides:

Gerald D Wed 05 November 2008 10:29

Brad, your arithmetic is better than mine . . . yup, not too many motors :)

That's right Heath, every extra tool needs more rail length to get the other tools out of the way.

bradm Wed 05 November 2008 10:32

Thanks for the picture, I missed a 90 degree turn in my visualization of where the twin Z axis go.

servant74 Fri 09 January 2009 14:00

MechMate Mini?
 
Gerald,
I was wondering if you went anywhere with this further than just contemplating. A 50" wide (to accommodate US MDF) cutting area gantry
that could be used on a 'small' table could be very interesting.

I assume the Gantry and Z would be the same, or were you contemplating
come modifications there?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald_D View Post
What is the smallest MechMate off the plans? Well, I am very tempted to do a 1200mm [4ft] gantry on a 600mm [2ft] table for making signs at home. In this case I would call the gantry x and the table y.

That gantry would easily transfer to a 2400mm [8ft] table if I want to sell it. I think there comes a point where one considers shortening the table instead of the gantry, since 95% of the MechMate's "engineering" and sweat are in the gantry (and control box) and not in the table. Tables are almost consumable/disposable - unless you are heavily invested in vacuum holddown.

Gerald D Fri 09 January 2009 20:04

I've built the parts, but must still get around to the installation. The gantry and all the moving parts are standard. The short table will be entirely wall-mounted and extend partly over the hood of my parked car in my home garage.

SteveE Tue 03 February 2009 06:55

Table Size
 
Hello all, I am at the planning stage of building a MM for plywood and solid surface cutting. I'm a bit confused about what lengths to apply to the X and Y dimensions in the plans. Here in the US, 4x8 up to 4x12 is the standard size for plywood, and solid surface comes in 30"x12' sizes. I would like to size the Y to be able to handle 5'. Does this mean I use 68" for the Y measurement and 144" for the X measurement in the drawings? For example, in drawing 10 10 240 (steel x-rail) the measurement is X + 8.1" between stop blocks. If I use 144" for the X variable, will this allow me to make a full 12' cut? Or should I oversize the X variable (as well as the Y variable)?

Steve E.
(aka newbie)

domino11 Tue 03 February 2009 07:20

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
Yes, I add 100mm of movement to the chosen X & Y.

In an extreme case, you might have a 100mm diameter "cutter", and then you will only just be able to run that "cutter" around the edge of the table.
Steve, as Gerald has said in other posts he adds some extra for wood routing. If you need more than 2 inches you will need to add more. :)

Gerald D Tue 03 February 2009 08:40

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveE View Post
If I use 144" for the X variable, will this allow me to make a full 12' cut?
Yes. In fact, the center of the cutter will go 2" beyond the ends of that 144". In other words, if you select the X dimension as 144", your total travel will actually be 148".

mrloeng Sat 07 February 2009 15:24

Hello!
My name is svein (some call me mr seven) and live in Norway.
Sorry my English is not good.
Thanks for this router forum and part list! Geral D
I work with CNC machines and produces tools.
I will build a machine-y-2550 and x-4050.
I want to build an extreme machine that will be heavy and very nice!
But there is one thing that I can`t, and it is all that electronic.
I like servo motors, but look in here that stepper works fine.
I want an exact machine as possible, Mash3 compensate for the back slash?
Hwat can I do to get all the right electric equipment.
Is there anyone here that has a shopping list??? And electrical building map for beginners??? :)
I would like to have the ability to plug in one more motor on the y axis if I need it one day.
Have some answers to my questions?????
Regards from one that can`t noting with the electronics!
Thank you!

sailfl Sat 07 February 2009 16:53

Svein,

Your English is fine.

You have more experience than most of us. I never worked with a CNC machine before I built mine. I had help with some one local but there are many that have had no experience with steel, electronics or software and they have built a machine and it works.

There will be others that can help you with the electronics. Gerald's design takes care of backlash so you do not have to do anything in Mach to compensate.

One of the first things that is suggested to some one just starting out is to download the plans and print them off and put them a large notebook so you can refer back to them as you learn and prepare for your build.

Go through the threads of people that have finished building their machine. You will learn a lot by reading those threads. Start with Gerald's build thread.

Look at the Kitchen table project. You can learn a lot there also.

Good luck with your build. Ask questions when you got them.

domino11 Sat 07 February 2009 18:10

Welcome Svein:) Hope you find all you need here and have a great build.

mrloeng Sun 08 February 2009 03:56

Thank you!
Yes, I have to see everywhere in the forum, I think all of my questions can be answered here.
For there are many good builders here.

stan stuart Wed 13 May 2009 16:17

Rails
 
I am looking at buying linnier rails for my MM when I get arround to building it.
The supplier can only supply 3000mm tenghts and I was looking at going 4000mm. The supplier says you can join them but doesn't like to suggest how this should be done.
My main concern is if the joint is the slightest amount out of alinement in any direction it will not only damage the rollers and bearings but will jump or distort the cut.
Has anybody joined rails and how was it done

sailfl Wed 13 May 2009 17:07

Stuart,

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...p?t=794&page=3

Look at post # 93. There is a picture of the two rails end to end. I did not do anything to the ends that came from the supplier. Before I had the machine up and running, I was concerned that where the two rails meet would be a problem. I even thought when I rolled the gantry over the X rails that I could hear some clicking at the point they joined. Since I am running I have not noticed any problem.

I tapped the rails. Be careful when you drill your holes that the rail is tight against the top of the aluminum and of course tight against each other.

I have one joint on each X rail and one on each Y.

I hope that helps. If you want more pictures, I can take some more and post them.

smreish Wed 13 May 2009 17:13

...Careful alignment and alternating the seam lines so they do not occur in the same Y plane keeps any joint challenges to a minimum. The joint line in the alternate configuration allows for only (1) bearing to see a joint at a time.

....Now I only wish those expansion joints in the highway would have a slight angle to keep my truck suspension from jarring me so much!

Sean

stan stuart Wed 13 May 2009 18:37

Rails
 
Thank You To Sailfl & Sean For The Info Sets Me At Ease A Little And I Hope They Are As Accurate As You Say

KTM_EXC Sun 30 August 2009 10:42

Correct dimensions
 
Gerald,
If my working area is 450 x 300 cm, referring to your PDF I understood that in order to calculate X and Y size the calculation can be the following:

10 10 123 - Support board: 38 x 12 + 0,29 x 2 = 456,58 cm --> Length
38 x 8 + 0,19 x 2 = 304,38 cm --> Width

Then:

10 10 322 - Main longitudinal beams: 456,58 (Support board L.) + 60 = 516,58 cm ---> X Size
10 10 302 - Cross bearer: 304,38 (Support board W.) + 42 = 346,38 + 1 (weld space) = 347,38 cm ---> Y Size


Is this correct?
Thanks for all and sorry to bother you with this simply question (I am a very CNC newbe)

Andrea

Gerald D Sun 30 August 2009 11:22

If your working area is 450 x 300 cm, then your X=4500mm and Y=3000mm

From drawing 1010123, you buy a support board 4500mm X 3000mm
- to calculate the cross support spacing, 4500 - (2 X 29) = 4442 which must be divided into spaces of between 350 to 400mm. You can use 12 spaces (13 supports) of 370.2 mm
- drilling the holes in the Y direction: 3000 - (2 X 19) = 2962 which must be divided into spaces of between 350 to 400mm. You can use 8 holes which are 370.25 mm apart

10 10 322 - Main longitudinal beams: 450 cm (Support board L.) + 60 = 510 cm
10 10 302 - Cross bearer: 300 (Support board W.) + 42 = 342 cm (DO NOT ADD the weld space. . . . . it is a space for the weld)

KTM_EXC Mon 31 August 2009 02:06

Gerald,
the very first step is done!
Thanks again
Andrea

mcca215 Tue 20 April 2010 01:29

board size
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald_D View Post
Out of curiosity, what board sizes will you guys want to be cutting?
400 X 1000mm

Perish Mon 21 June 2010 22:55

Hi -I live in florida SA, and i am interested in building one of these machines.
But before i start what is roughly the cost to build one of these machine that could take a standard MDF 9x6 board. And do i get get std part that are locally available.


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