Cuttings signs and insects #36 - Antwerpen, Belgium

[Barman]

At the beginning of this year, I decided to build a CNC hobbymachine .
After a few weeks surfing on the Internet I came to this amazing MechMate site of Gerald D
I could not believe my eyes. A site with real plans and a great support . This is really fantastic. After several months of reading, I have also decided to build a MM for MDF board of 122 x 244 cm

I have no CNC experience and the construction of this MM will be a new challenge for me.
When the MM is ready I’m planning to build some kitchencabinets as hobby.

So, last month I have ordered : 14 x GW3 (guide wheels) and 6 x B3X (eccentric bushing) at Rick Hoback of the firm Superior Bearing Company.

Last week my "Mamba set" arrived from Denmark, made by Kim Mortensen (great job indeed) with a corresponding gaugeplate.

My iron is ordered at work: 18 m UPN 80 , 6 m UPN 180 and 6 m tube 100x50x3 mm
(Hopefully it will be delivered this month)

Most of the work such as sawing, grinding, drilling, I plan to do at work ( no noise and dust at home ) . After the working hours of course, so this will take a while I think.
My goal is to finish the mechanical part : the table , gantry, z-slide at the end of this year.

Meanwhile I have all my X and Y - rail cut with a 230 mm cuttingdisk at 28,5 mm.
My intention is cutting the rail at 28,5 mm and then grinding the rail using the railskate to 28 mm .For this I made a support for a grinder of 2300 W with a diskdiameter of 230 mm .
It went reasonably well. I needed 1 cuttingdisk for 6 meter.
So a total of 2 pieces . It lasted about 20 minutes to cut 3,5 m rail .

Unfortunately, the cuttingdisk jammed at a certain moment while I was cutting the first X-rail
( The moment you're almost through the 6 mm , is the most dangerous for jamming the disk , ... I learned )
Therefore the railheight of one X-rail is 27,4 mm at a certain place for approximately 40 cm instead of the needed 28 mm . Therefore I will reduce both X-rails to a railheight of 27 mm.

Will this be a problem for the future, or should I make “ one” new X-rail with the railheight of 28 mm ? (Hopefully it is admitted to reduce the height , because all the L-iron 60x60x6 is out of stock)

[J.R. Hatcher]

Bart if you have anymore rails to cut, do this it works. When your just before cutting through start climb cutting, moving the grinder only in the direction it wants to go, hence the term "climb cutting".
It saves wear and tear on the cutting wheels.

[Gerald D]

Bart, the 27mm is absolutely no problem.

Good to see the progress!

[Barman]

Thank you for your advice, but if the 27 mm railheight is also right it saves me a lot of work Today, my 18 m UPN 80 arrived at work.
So , I know what I am going to do this weekend .
Making my cross bearer and finishing the X – Y rail ( trying to ?? )

[Barman]

My 8 cross bearer are made. I used an L-iron as a jig . All the holes are 6,5 mm except those of the main beam's these are 13 mm. In these holes of 6.5 mm I will tap M8 thread and uses countersink bolts for the support board .


I did some testing for grinding the 2 x 45 ° angles for the X – Y rail .

[Doug_Ford]

Bart,

Sounds like you are making good progress. I wish you the best.

[Greg J]

I did some testing for grinding the 2 x 45 ° angles for the X – Y rail .

Bart,

Nice to see progress. :)

How did your testing for the angles go? Pictures would be great. ;)

[Barman]

Hey, it's good to get support in this project because there always will be large or small problems , which can be solved .

He Greg , about " my testing " :

I welded a flat bar of 30x8 mm (or the waste of the 60x60 L-iron ) to an L-iron and fix it on my workbench (total length ca. 60 cm). In this way, I can practice with the railskate without making mistakes on my original rails.

In my first attempt the angle was greater than 90 degrees.
In my second attempt the angle is 90 °, but my the flanks of the corner are not equal (picture will follow).
Here I still do something wrong , so I have to do some reading , why ?

I also made another setup for the grinder .
Inspired by the example of Hennie.
The aim is also to do the gaugeplate with it .

[Barman]

Some pics of my tests:

Initially I tried the setup with the railskate (tipping method).
Later, I tried this setup. My results remains the same, no equal flanks.
This photo is my worst result.
Is this acceptable ???
Tonight I will try again to find out what is going wrong and to get a good result.

[Gerald D]

Uneven sized flanks are acceptable if they are consistent along the length of the rail.

[Barman]

Hey,

I thought that technically , it could not hurt.
But I do not understand how this could happen, because I always
make the same movements in the same direction.
And my referencetable is of 30 mm plywood.

[Barman]

Hey, I'm still alive.

Here are some pic’s of my "slow" progress.
I did my Y-rail's and welded my gantry .
This week I wanted to weld my table but I could not find the right welding machine , so .. it will be for the next time .
For my router table I used 7 cross bearers instead of 8 and a 30 mm MDF support board
Other things that I collected are:
4 large wheels (total height = 16 cm), 1 PC pentium 4, 1 electrical cabinet and support
for the legs.

[Kobus_Joubert]

Nice going Bart....in the land with the biggest and best variety of beers...according to me:)

[Barman]

Yes , there are more then 400 different kinds of beer in our country.
My favorite is "Den Duvel" made in a local brewery.
"Schol, Santé ..." on the build of the MechMate.

www.duvelusa.com/heritage.php?cat=belgian

[Kobus_Joubert]

Wish I was there to share a "pilsje" with you. During my 5 years in Holland we visited the Belgium Ardennes often...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ardennes and then our drinking beer was JUPILER, but to wash our mouth out, we had a nice cold Duvel or a Westmalle Triple

Groetjes, Kobus

[Barman]

That would be nice .
This evening I ‘m leaving on weekend to the "Ardennen".
I think this time it will be " Rochefort 8° - 10° " .

[Marc Shlaes]

How about the Trappiste Ales? I love Duvel but I love those too!!!

[hennie]

Mitchells & Amstel for me and if available a Corona.

[Barman]

There is a Dutch saying " Drink met mate(n)! ".
This means " Don’t drink too much" but sometimes , this is also known
as " Drink with your friends ! ".

[Barman]

A Happy New Year to everyone .

Here is what I've done lately.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kAoBhdJbVc

Some things delayed me , but it goes in the right direction

When I was grinding the 2x 45 angels of the X-rail my new Bosch grinder broke down .
I finally got a new one after 2 weeks .

I made a mistake with the distance between the X-rail .
Gauge Rod = Length Y (1220) + 461 = 1681 mm
This is the distance that I used to dril the X-rails in the Main Beam .
When I put the Gantry on these X-rails I noticed a difference of 6 mm .
So , I have enlarged the holes of the X-rail from 12 to 13 mm.
Now they fit correctly but the bolts for the rails are at the end .
In the future I will make slip holes in one X-rail for an optimal alignment and use .

[isladelobos]

Good video Bart!! Thanks

We see the quality of the design and maker.

[Barman]

MechMate is painted and back assembled.

I know bad points for me.
The RAL is 5021 instead of 5010.
Originally , I bought these paint for my outside metal stair , several years ago .
But the color was not right for my wife ...

I painted everything with a paint role.
It took me about 2 weeks.
Each day approximately 2 hours painting. I have 2 layers established.
Only the Y-car, I tried spraying with a cheap spray gun from a local store.
This was a big mistake . The quality was bad and I still have to clean my garage.:(

Further I had a long wait for the “hold down shaft” and the “bearing support base”.
But now I have an extra set , maybe for later.
I only need to weld it on the spider plate .

Also I decided to buy 4 x PK 296AE-SG7.2 .
So, I have already bought the 4 x pinions : module 1 – Z = 36

[smreish]

Way to go. As always, use what you have. That blue looks close enough for me :) noticing....I wish my garage was that clean

[Kobus_Joubert]

Nice going ...the garage will quickly change once he starts cutting ..:D

[Gerald D]

I like that blue! Okay, everyone else must repaint now! :D

The best part of that paint is that it got used and didn't end up going hard in the tin. I wonder what percentage of the world's paint production, particularly solvent-based paints, gets dumped. . . . .

[Barman]

I ‘m glad you all like that color.
I ‘m also very pleased with my paintingjob.
Almost sprayed !
My children love it too.
Proudly they tell everyone that “they have chosen the color of Dad's machine”.:D:D

[Barman]

Today I did some homework on the powersupply:
Can someone please confirm my conclusion before I order.
A quick summary :

Used motors will be : PK296AE-SG7.2

Wire them half – coil .

MAX Voltage / Motor = 32 X SQRT(Inductance), so 32 X SQRT(1.5mH) = 39VDC.

TRANSFO :

230VAC/ 2x25 VAC will give 35 VDC after rectification .
The secondary windings will be put in parallel for max current .

This is the transfo I’m going to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2238257

ELCO :

Formula : ( 80000*current motor) / voltage motor.

(80000 * 3) / 35 = 6857 μF * 4 steppers = 27428 μF

Selected Elco : 1 x 22000µF - 63 V

This is the elco I’m going to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5436915

RECTIFIER: -> I have already

Secure with 4 x fast fuse of 3A

Fuseholder to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3110009

Fuse 3 A to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5421452

No Bleeder Resistor !

Also check my powersupply schema .

Any suggestions ?


Soon I can start with the kitchen project.
Thanks

[Gerald D]

What drives are you using?
Those calculations perfect for G201 and G202 drives. For G203, you do not need fuses, they have fuses inside. Remember to order the resistors for the drives.

[Barman]

The drives will be 4 x Gecko G203 V.
The resistor must be (36k – 0,6W) for the 3 A protection.
(Normally it is 0,25W, but I dont find it on the ordersite .So I think 0,6W will certainly do)

The resistor to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0148865

[Gerald D]

That resistor will be 100%

I think the fuse in the Gecko 203 is:\
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5413300 (http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5413300), but I am not sure.

[Barman]

Ok, I leave out the fuses for the gecko's .
But , can I order the Transfo of 230v/2x25V and the ELCO of 22000μF ?
And wire it as my schema ?:confused:

[Gerald D]

My reply is already in post #28: "Those calculations perfect for G201 and G202 drives. For G203, you do not need fuses, they have fuses inside."

Your post says 1x "Elco" while your schematic shows 2x. But 1x will be okay.

[Barman]

ok, I understand it now .
:)

[Barman]

Here are some pics of my “ kitchen table" project.

4 x Gecko G203V - Vampire
1 x Mach3 - interface card + license
Purchased by: www.leeuwinga.nl

4 x Steppers VEXTA PK296AE-SG7.2
Purchased by: www.rotero.com


As limit – and home switches I’m using 4x induktieve switches from Efector IF5538 .
Two switches for the X direction will be build in the pushbutton stations .
So in the main junction box on the Y-car will be the 3 others relais.

All the motors can be jogged and run without an error .

However tuning has yet to happen.

[Robert M]

Congratulation Bart, nicely done.
Thanks for the info, bonne chance sur votre montage de la stucture ....Keep those photos in ;)

[sailfl]

Bart,

Control box looks great.

Is that a hour meter on your BOB?

[Barman]

Thank You,

Yes, it is an hour meter.
The intention is that I later know the total time that I have worked on a particular project.
One project can mayby exist out more then one .dxf files .
With the switch I can reset .

[sailfl]

Bart,

Mach tells you the time it has taken to cut a file so you can record those times if you have more than one cut file for a job.

Once you start using your machine, you will rarely open you control box door. I put a hour meter on the door but I rarely look at it.

[Barman]

Probably you are right about it.
But, I had this hour meter on surplus.
This build was a good moment to use it.
Time will tell if I use him or not.

[Barman]

Things that I still need to order are:
Lapp cable - gasspring 100 N – IGUS Chain.
I could not resist to wait for it .
So I used a not so flexible cable LIYCY to see what would happen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIDXVfnb9GM

And it was very amazing for me .:D :D :D
This is certainly fine .
Now, I will experiment with the Mach3 settings .

[sailfl]

Bart,

Interesting router and Z you have.

That progress should encourage you to finish quickly. You think that is fun wait until you cut some thing, that is real fun.

[Gerald D]

Congratulations Bart, that is some neat construction and good movement.

[Barman]

Today I have ordered all the rest.
Lapp cable can I buy a meter without additional cutting costs in a local store.
The deliverytime of the gasspring is about 2 weeks.:(
I really look forward to finish this MM.

[Tailgunner]

Can you tell me where you got the pinions and rack (tandlat) from.
I also live in Belgium and would like to buy as much parts close to home.

[Barman]

He Gregory ,

Look at www.bogaert-transmission.com/

The needed rack and pinion's are in stock .
I payed about 30 euro for 2 m rack and about 3.5 euro for the pinion (z = 36)
.

[Tailgunner]

Thanx for the info, excellent:)

[Barman]

After my z -slide was finished and everything was connected ,
I have tested the MM by using a pencil.
During testing I noticed a wear pattern in my x – rails and z-slide .
The y-rail is ok.
The attached photos were taken after about 14 h testing and are the worst cases .

I have rechecked the parallel distance between the x –y rails.
This time I have used a dial gauge , so I could measure up to 0,01 mm.
My y-rails are now within the range of 0,25 mm and the x-rails are within the range of 0,15 mm .I think this is ok .

I have disconnected te motors from the rack , and there is no resistance when I move the gantry . Everything turns very soft .

The only thing that perhaps could cause this wear pattern is that , the angle of the x-rail is not exactly 2x45 °.

Could this be a problem in the future? Or should I keep it ?

[Gerald D]

Bart, I am sure that it will be okay. I have seen some very bad rails, yet they still gave a good cutting result. Your rails are actually quite good, and I can see you are being very careful with the construction.

[Barman]

Thank you Gerald, that's a relief :):).
Now I have to finish my dustfoot and the routermount and maybe next week my first cutting .

[Barman]

Smoke & Dust - First Cuts :

After experimenting with Autocad and Lazycam I made my first pieces.
These pieces I gone use for the dustpipe .
Everything is drawn in autocad and then I have “offset “ the half diameter of the mill.
I know , that this is not the right way, but I am still learning.
The router is a KINZO - 650 W ( I bought it about 10 years ago and was not expensive, along with 2 HSS mills: diameter: 10 mm - 22 mm). I have used the 10 mm mill to cut these pieces in paces of 4 mm at the time and with a feedrate of 600 . The material is black MDF of 19 mm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfSCEDPENfM

As you can see it goes pretty wrong after milling around the 8 st piece.
Is this normal , ... or what did I wrong? .

I have read that you always have to mill clockwise on the inside of a workpiece.
Or can you also mill against the clock without burning the mill ?

What is a good diameter for milling MDF of 18 mm, and in how many paces can it be done ?

[sailfl]

Bart,

Is that smoke?

It does not matter which direction you go.

You are cutting 4 mm per pass which sounds good. I usually make about 3 passes. Feed rate of 600 what?

You should not be getting smoke. You are burning the material.

[domino11]

Bart,
I think the HSS end mills might be part of your problem. I have heard that guys only get a couple of feet of cutting on a cnc mill before they dull and start to smoke. Switch to carbide cutters. Solid or at least carbide tipped. Be careful if you are seeing smoke like that, you dont want a fire! Lets see that logo and a new serial number will be coming! :)

[servant74]

I know a person that cuts a LOT of MDF, and only MDF. He has been purchasing diamond coated router bits just for the longevity. He tends to think it is economical for him, but I have not seen any data on it.

[Gerald D]

Congratulations Bart!

Yeah, smoke is not good. You need to use a tungsten carbide (wolfram in Dutch?) cutter and you won't see smoke for at least a full day of cutting those parts. The direction of cut makes no difference to the life of the cutter.

You can cut about 10mm deep with a 10mm diam cutter, and 6mm deep with a 6mm diam cutter, etc. It depends on how much detail you need in the corners of the finished part.

[Barman]

Hey all,

Thank you for the mill advice .
I had to finishing this piece because , I had no spare cutter and it was my last piece of MDF.
After my wife's vacuum cleaner stops with cleaning , the smoke was very clear and I was aware of a possible fire. So I thought , .. quickly make a movie, but the smoke was so fierce that I had to open the garage .

When I get back from vacation, I have to move the MM about 3 m to its final place .
Then I will order the MM logos for my serial number and finish the dustcollection system .
From now on , I ‘m also looking for a good tool supplier.

I ‘m very satisfied with this first experience. It gives a good feeling when the piece is finished you have designed.

[PEU]

I would increase the feed rate before blaming the end mill, also helping removing the chips from the cutter helps (suction or blowing them away)

[Gerald D]

Good point Pablo. Also, I do not know what "black MDF" is . . . . . it might be recycled wood & car tyre (rubber) mix . . . . . the material is maybe something that likes to smoke . . . .

[domino11]

Bart,
Do you have any info on this "black" MDF? Looks interesting.

[Barman]

Pablo, maybe you are right but I can’t test it anymore because I have to buy new mills now.
This time I will go to a special shop and ask for “ tungsten - carbide cutters” .
I'm curious about the price ?

Gerald, I know nothing of wood or MDF .
But this is the link of a local dealer where you can buy black MDF.
They also sell:
Green -> moisture resistant MDF
Red -> fire / flame retardant MDF

http://www.beveka.be/mdfzwart.nl.htm#top

[Barman]

After some Googling, I found the following.

Types of MDF or (Medium-Density Fiberboard) :

A standard MDF plate can be identified by the light brown color of the wood. In addition to standard MDF, there are still six other species:

• MDF Plus: Maintains light brown color, but smoother surface;
• MDF MR: Moisture Resistent . This plate has a green color identification;
• MDF FR: Fire Retardent . It has a pink color identification;
• MDF Exterior : MDF for exterior applications. It has a gray color identification;
• MDF Ecologique : MDF with no added formaldehyde. The plate remains light brown as the standard plate.
• MDF FQ: Floor Quality suitable for floors. This plate does not change color;
• MDF Colorcore: This is a coloring substance added to the raw material
That gives the plate a uniform color (gray, black, red, yellow, blue or green).
(black on stock, other colors (red, yellow, blue or green) to order.


http://www.moenshouthandel.be/static/producted2bed2b.html?sid=11546&preview=&level1=5&level2=3&did=4&pid=2997162&lng=0

Click on the picture. I think this cabinet was made in a as I cal it “ black MDF”. Maybe you give it a different name.?

I've ever seen a kitchen that was made in " red-colored “ MDF. It was very beautiful.

[Barman]

This weekend I discovered a major mistake .
While I was reading “the basic cutting tutorial “ from Doug Ford (which is certainly very
useful – thanks for it ), trying to set the machine coordinates to zero, I discovered that I have put the gantry in the wrong way.
Looking at drawing 10 00 000 I noticed that my motor was on the wrong side of the 0,0 corner. ( see picture ).
It struck me that I could not use the entire work surface.
The first 10 cm could not be used by the router .
How could this happen?
When I installed the cable chains I looked at drawing 10 60 100 "cable chain assemblies” to mount them . Apparently this was the rear view.

Today I disconnected all the cables back and turned the gantry.
Tomorrow I will change the “X-cable chain shelf “ to the other side and extend all the cables and connect them back .

Just to be sure:
Looking at drawing 10 10 300 - the ( 0,0 corner ) is the ( left - below corner ) if you look above the table . That is the “home position”.

I also discovered that my dust collection is not strong enough (0,5 hp) which is much too weak .
So for the moment I use my wife's vacuum cleaner.

And the “back mdf “ as I called it , is the same as what Hennie uses “ Valchromat “ .

[Gerald D]

Sorry that we did not see your problem from the photo on 17 March. :(

On drawing 10 60 100 A, it is simply views of the cable chain assemblies. (But you can see the offset direction of the table cross supports 10 10 302 D). See the thread Cable chain location & orientation (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=561)

[Barman]

Gantry is turned, cables back connected and no errors .
Did some drawingtests with a pencil.

Mmmm ... firts time was better .

Time to set the "Y-axis square to the X-axis” .

Is it advisable to :

- first glue the spoilboard on the supportboard
- then surfacing the spoilboard
- and then set the Y-axis square to the X-axis .


Or can the squaring be done on the support board without first surfacing :confused:

[Alan_c]

Squaring can be done before surfacing, it should not make any difference. On my machine my support beams were quite far out from dead straight so I surfaced the support board first (making sure the bolts were sunk low enough), then glued on the spoilboard and surfaced it again. Doing it this way only took one pass to true up the spoilboard (but 4 passes on the support board).

[Gerald D]

The squaring XY is completely independent of the flat surfacing - it does not matter which one you do first.

[Barman]

Thanx

[Barman]

I've finally finished the job.
It cost me some time but it worked.

The HBM 200 - 2 hp - dust collector works perfectly for me , better than all my previous setups.

The s-error was 3,1 mm so the 0,9 mm extra shims did their job fine.
The alignment is now , as good as perfect.

Surfacing the board was a different story.
I could not adjust the routerspeed of the” Kinzo”.
Rotating a cutter of 18 mm at a speed of 30,000 rpm seemed me not so wise.
Luckily I found a speedcontroler of 600 w to perform this task.

The first time , I surfaced the board in the x-direction.
It took me about 2 hours time with the cutter of 18 mm .
The first 20 minutes went fine but then , there appeared grooves of unequal depth .

The second time , I surfaced the board in the y-direction.
I milled about 15minutes and then waited about 1 hours and so on .
The result is better but not perfect and not the way it should be .

So , I think my latest investment will be a new spindle.
My preference goes to the already discussed "chinese water-cooled spindls ".
Especially praised for their silence (my neighbors think I've made already enough noise).

I ‘m thinking of a 2,2 kw because it has a collet ER20 .
The 1,5 kw has only a collet ER11 .
But , I'm not sure which is the best choice the :1,5 kw or 2,2 kw.
What I want to make afterwards are cabinet doors and closets.

http://cgi.ebay.de/a-water-cooled-spindle-motor-1-5kw-with-a-VFD-as-a-set_W0QQitemZ250434784545QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item3a4f138d21&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.de/a-water-cooled-spindle-motor-2-2kw-with-a-VFD-as-a-set_W0QQitemZ250399686574QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item3a4cfbffae&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

[Gerald D]

Pragtige werk - mooi gedaan!

[Barman]

Dit was echt onmogelijk geweest zonder al jullie hulp.
Dank U Gerald :)
and thanks to everyone .:)

[Robert M]

Yep, as Gerald puts it, nicely done.
I’ll add; patience pays. One thing I know to well….:rolleyes:
Congrad Bart, a year in the making…now a happy man satisfied of his accomplishment…
Let’s all raise and make a toast with one of those nice begum bear :D
Robert ;)

[Barman]

Hey Robert,

You can be sure that I am a proud owner of a mechmate 36.
And each time I've finished a particular job, I always toasted with my favorite beer .:D

[jhiggins7]

Bart,

Congratulations on completing your build and on Serial #36.:)

The Updated Builder's Log is here (http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&hl=en).

Please review the entry and let me know if you want any changes.

[Barman]

Hey John,

Thanxs , it's perfect for me .

[domino11]

Congratulations Bart! :)

[Kobus_Joubert]

Well done ..nog een piljse ?

[BartDeckers]

Bart,

I have sent you a PM regarding the offer from Lasertek. However I cannot see the message in my "sent messages" box.

If you did not receive it please let me know.

Bart

[smreish]

Bart,
Congratulations. That big blue colour looks good in an any country! Don't forget to show us a lot of pictures of dust soon.

Sean

[sailfl]

Bart,

Congratulations. Machine looks great. How about a close up of your dust foot.

[Barman]

This is like a dream that come true for me .
It was only possible through this forum and the dedication of all those people.
Thanks to everyone.

Here are some pics of my dustfoot.
I chose a fixed foot regardless of the z-axis.
Most of the ideas are from this forum that I have joined and adjusted a little bit.


As you can see I added an extra bracket, on which I've screwed a clamp .
The clamp must hold the tube of 100mm .
The idea of the clamp is based on “Wooden Handscrew Clamp “.
http://www.justclamps.com/Graphics/08_images/wooden_hand_clamp.jpg


It works great for me, until I will buy a new spindle.
Afterwards, I will make a new dustfoot based on the same principe but closed at the end .
The same model as yours, Nils.
Because , I noticed there was much dust at the end of table ( x – direction )during surfacing .

[sailfl]

Bart,

I don't think you need the skirt.

[myozman]

Bart,

Nice looking machine, Have fun making dust.

[Barman]

Nils,

At this time the skirt comes in handy.
When I remove the front piece , dust flies around .
Currently , it stay this way .
Afterwards , I make one like yours.

[BartDeckers]

Hi Bart,

Can you let me know were you bought your Lapp cable (you mention a local store :))

Thanks,

Bart

[Barman]

Bart ,

Breva Antwerpen
Noorderlaan 31
Tel 03/540.02.90

Is the place to be ;)

Bart

[Barman]

Here are some signs I made.
A simple start to begin with.

1 ° pic: 6x signs for people who went on retirement.
2 ° pic: 2x birthday plate.
3 ° pic: some puzzles.
4 ° pic: a doorsign .

All made of MDF .
For the signs I used a V-bit 90° and a feedrate of 600 mm/min or 10 mm/sec.

I had to reduce the feedrate from 1500mm/min to 600 mm/min, because the machine was making too heavy movements , in my opinion.
Afterwards I have decreased the acceleration of the X-Y- Z axis from 1300 to 500 (I think this is better)

What is an acceptable feedrate for making such signs with a V-Bit D= 19mm 90° ?:confused:

Thanks

[Gerald D]

Nice work Bart!

We do cut such signs at around 1500 mm/min and the machine does shake around a lot. We only reduce the speed if the quality of cutting gets bad. (If you reduce the speed too much, the cutter leaves burn marks)

[Barman]

Thanks Gerald ,

I was a bit afraid that I would damage the shafts of the motors with the feedrate of 1500 mm/min and all that shaking .
But now I know that it's alright .
A feedrate of 1500 mm/min will be the standart .:)

[Sikus]

Hello Bart,

Could you please give me a draw of the the conections you have made with this Mach 3 card? I am new in this adventure and looking at the pictures there are many things I dont know,
I live in Amsterdam and I am planing to use the same components as you, the box looks great man, congratulations.
Thanks very much

[Barman]

He ,

The only plan I have is drawn by hand.
To make a input “ high” : just make a connection between the + 24V and desired input.

If you download the manual from the link you have a short but good tutorial about this BOB in dutch .

www.leeuwinga.nl/office_teksten/manual_mach32dbob2.pdf

Good luck

[Tailgunner]

MechMate is painted and back assembled.

I know bad points for me.
The RAL is 5021 instead of 5010.
Originally , I bought these paint for my outside metal stair , several years ago .
But the color was not right for my wife ...

I painted everything with a paint role.
It took me about 2 weeks.
Each day approximately 2 hours painting. I have 2 layers established.
Only the Y-car, I tried spraying with a cheap spray gun from a local store.
This was a big mistake . The quality was bad and I still have to clean my garage.:(

Further I had a long wait for the “hold down shaft” and the “bearing support base”.
But now I have an extra set , maybe for later.
I only need to weld it on the spider plate .

Also I decided to buy 4 x PK 296AE-SG7.2 .
So, I have already bought the 4 x pinions : module 1 – Z = 36

What size of square tubing did you use for the 'cross angle brace-cut' wich are visible in the picture on the right (10 10 304 S A).