New Z Slide Going In! #12 - Winter Park, FL

[sailfl]

Today, I jumped in with both feet to start my build.

I have ordered the PMDX-122 BOB, the AnTek Power Supply, Oriential Motors, the Gecko G203V Drives and a bunch of things from FactoryMation.

I have not decided on the size of the table. It will most likely be 5' x 10' or 12'. I have some time to decided that.

I have decided not to grind the rails and I eventually will have a spindle but will start with a router.

I appreciate Gerald's design and free plans. I also know that there are plenty of people on this forum with excellent experience if I run into a problem. I am also fortunate to live 15 minutes away from Sean Reish's shop and his MechMate and knowledge.

[sailfl]

The first item that I have received are the laser that I ordered from Deal Extreme. It took them about 10 days to deliver them.

[dmoore]

I have not decided on the size of the table. It will most likely be 5' x 10' or 12'. I have some time to decided that.

I'd recommend that if you will be doing anything with 5' widths (sheet metal, MDF), to go the 5ft Y route. It's a whole lot easier to make the MechMate's X longer than it is to lengthen the Y. Also be aware that you can get about 100" of X out of a single ~20ft C channel, going to something longer requires two 20ft beams, then you might as well go all the way since the cost isn't that great (just extra rail, cross supports, support board and X chain.)

I have decided not to grind the rails

Are you going to do the bolt-on pre-made rails?

[sailfl]

David,

I have not decided about the length. I was always going to Y the 5'.

Yes, I am going with the bolt-on-pre-made rails. At least that is my direction at this time. I might change my mind but I don't think so.

Your laser design is interesting but I think I am going to use Greg Greolt idea. I do like your dust collect design.

[dmoore]

Yes, I am going with the bolt-on-pre-made rails. At least that is my direction at this time. I might change my mind but I don't think so.


Is the reason for going with the bolt on rails have to do with complexity (cutting down the leg, building the grinder/skate, time to grind)?

[sailfl]

No, it has to do with I like the bolt on.

[AlphaBob]

Nils,

I'm up in Jacksonville and probably about 4 - 6 months behind you. I've got some other projects I've got to clear before I start in earnest on my MechMate (biodiesel reactor, re-assemble my 1939 tractor, etc.).

I'm going to "soft start" soon on my rails - plan to grind my own. Ideally from 304 stainless because of the tremendous amount of humidity here in Florida.

I've got a full-size mill with power feed and DRO. Let me know if you need any small machining jobs or if you're interested in doubling up on any purchases.

There's another Bob up here (in St. Augustine) and we're probably going to go in on some of the gear rack that is mentioned elsewhere. The rack is around $24 / section and the company purportedly likes to deal in larger quantities. Between Bob & I we plan on ordering 6 pieces so let me know if you're interested.

AlphaBob

[sailfl]

AlphaBob

Thanks for the suggestion and I will keep you in mind. I have most of the things I need for the Control Box. I would like to see some pictures after you have ground a S/S rail.

[AlphaBob]

Will do.

[sailfl]

AlphaBob,

I was thinking about you making the rails out of S/S and I was wondering if it is cost effective. I am sure that S/S is much more expensive than steel. You have the equipment to grind the rail which helps reduce your cost. If you are using the machine on a regular basis, is there going to be a build up of rust? And if there was, wouldn't it be cheaper to replace the steel rails? I would think that you could replace the steel rails a couples times and it cost less than S/S.

Would the rollers run smoother on S/S?

What do you think?

[dmoore]

Would the rollers run smoother on S/S?

I guess you could say it would run smoother on the long run. With the stainless generally being harder than the mild steel - if you drop things onto the rail, it would be less likely to damage the rail, causing a dibit or other flaw in the rail.

I am sure that S/S is much more expensive than steel.

How much more were you thinking - 2x, 3x, 5x? Forty feet of 2.5"x2"x1/4" angle (enough for a 4'x8' unit) is in total about 127#. Currently steel has been running me about .80 cents a pound (retail) for a total of 101$ for the angle in mild steel. Anyone purchase stainless on a regular basis care to quote a rough amount per pound? I'm going to take a wild guess, since nikel prices have dropped quite a bit over the last three months and say for 18-8 it is 2.25 to 2.75 per pound?

And if there was, wouldn't it be cheaper to replace the steel rails?

The difference seems like it wouldn't be in the inital cost of the stainless, it would be in the cost to re-purchase the steel (plus the time to get it), the time re-cut and grind it and if you are running a business off your MechMate, the cost of down time to swap out the rails. Not to mention the issue of redrilling the holes in the correct spots an getting everything realigned.

You have the equipment to grind the rail which helps reduce your cost.

The total, out of pocket costs to grind the rails using the skate (if you don't have another method) is about $120 USD (excluding the cost of the steel). Then, on top of that, you still get a perfectly good grinder to work with on your project. So, if you don't already have a grinder or if you have the right model grinder that fits the skate (see my other posts), the cost is less than $20 USD. In my opinion, the skate with a circular saw, if you don't have something like a mill or other purpose designed machine, is the way to go.

[smreish]

Humidity shouldn't be a large issue.
My machine is currently in a 100% humidity, 95 Deg F shop most of the year. I notice a very little surface rust on the the Vee part of the rail. But, the frequency of the machine running keeps the journal way nice and polished. If your really worried about it, use TableSaw surface "cleaning and anti rust spray". It doesn't leave a residue and is A LOT cheaper than Stainless. Stainless is significantly harder material and may last longer, but how much longer? Love to hear Gerald's thoughts on this one.

[Greg J]

I think someone is forgetting the K.I.S.S. principal.

[Gerald D]

Stainless is significantly harder material and may last longer, but how much longer? Love to hear Gerald's thoughts on this one.

My experience with Stainless is that it is a poor bearing/load carrying material - it has a tendency to "gall" (stick to the mating part and break out pit holes). I believe that stainless rails are offered for hygiene reasons the food industry, and not because they have superior hardness or wear resistance.

[ekdenton]

Stainless is also quite a bit higher in cost than steel.

It will be cheaper and easier to go with the aluminum angle and pre-made hardened rails. Especially if you consider the grinder, grinder attatchments for holding the grinder, bearings, and grinding and cutting disks to the cost of the stainless steel angle.

If I do any more MM's, I am going with all premade hadened rails, they have more bearing contact surface area and are much less stressfull to the builder than all the cutting and grinding IMHO.

If you do the SS be sure to wear a good resperator.

[sailfl]

Parts are starting to arrive and I am purchasing what I need.

Tuesday:
Resistors and crimping tool:

Wednesday:
PMDX-122 BOB
Many parts from FactoryMation which included the backplate for the enclosure.

[sailfl]

Motors, Power Supply, Geckos have all arrived.

I am looking to start wiring the control box soon. I am making good progress.

[sailfl]

I have all the major parts for the control box. I will recieve one last part that I want to put on the box door on Monday. I need to buy a couple minor things from Skycraft and I will start assembling the control box and with Sean's help wire it up.

Gerald, I bought my first can of MM Blue paint.

[Gerald D]

Good stuff Nils. It is raining here and I am tidying up drawings. (Also re-creating the few drawings I lost when my memory stick spat out its dummy).

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Thanks

I will update the Excel drawing sheet. I looked at it earlier and had some questions but I will look it over when I see the next post about the drawings.

Did a test paint of the bottom of my lawn mower. MM Blue Toro!

[Greg J]

Nils,

Looking good.

Are you planning on painting everything (table, gantry, etc) with rattle cans ?

[sailfl]

Greg,

It is in the field of strong and most likely consideration. Easy to clean up, cheap to buy and great for touch up. So, YES!

[Greg J]

Just curious,

I painted the primer coat with rattle cans. It gets old fast. Went down to the local auto parts store and purchased a spray gun for $60. Made all the difference.

If you do go the spray gun route, here's a little hint. Where every you buy your paint, have them match it to your MM blue rattle can paint color.

I didn't do this, so small touch up jobs require the spray gun, mixing the paint, cleaning the gun, etc. :o

[sailfl]

Greg,

What brand and model did you buy? It has been a long time since I painted any thing with a spray can. When you think about it there isn't much surface that needs painting. It is just in long runs. Also this stuff dries in short period.

I purchased a handle that goes on top of the spray can which makes it easier to hold and it does the pushing on the sprayer head. If it doesn't work, I can get a regular sprayer.

Good idea about matching the paint color but I think RustOleum makes the same colors in gal sizes.

I will let you know how it works out when I start painting the steel. I will also use it to paint the control box.

[Greg J]

Nils,

It's just a NAPA special. One of those silver vacum guns. Nothing fancy.

I agree on those $2.00 handles for spray cans. Great idea.

[sailfl]

Greg,

It was more like $5 for the handle. You use it over and over. It was all I saw at Home Depot. Spring loaded.

[smreish]

Nils.
Don't worry, I have a lot of guns to spray with. If you want, we can go to the paint supply house I deal with and get your MM color when were ready.
Sean

[sailfl]

Today, I completed the task of attaching the Control Box hardware.

[thesaent14]

what model are you using on the power supply any info and why 5 drives

thanks

[sailfl]

Manny,

I am using AnTek, Inc, PS-6N56R5R12 Power Supply. There are 5 Geckos because I want to add an indexer to my machine some time in the future. I thought it would be easier to included it now instead of trying to add the wiring and associated hardware later.

Update!

I am making progress on the control box. I am a little slow with the bottom half but I am moving forward.

Sean is going to help me build the table. The steel has been ordered and will arrive Monday. I have ordered the wheels, bushings and V Rails from Superior Bearing. Yes, I am going against the tide. I am NOT grinding my rails. I will be happy to report the progress with the V Rails.

I have my Milwaukee 5625 router and I recently ordered the bracket to hold the router. I can not believe how heavy the router is and how quiet.

The laser parts will be shipped next week as reported by Joe.

The fun will continue for another week. More pictures soon.

[Greg J]

I have my Milwaukee 5625 router and I recently ordered the bracket to hold the router. I can not believe how heavy the router is and how quiet.

I think you are going to like that Milwaukee router allot. :) Another positive is the speed control. Having the ability to match bit rotational speed to the material being cut is nice.

Sounds like your having fun.

[sailfl]

Greg,

I am having fun and I think I will be having more fun once I get it all assembled.

[Gerald D]

Yes, I am going against the tide. I am NOT grinding my rails. I will be happy to report the progress with the V Rails.

At last! A volunteer! I am fairly confident it will work very well. Where are you sourcing the aluminum angle with the "sharp" inside corner?

[sailfl]

The local steel supplier has Architectural Aluminum but it was not the right size. Sean thinks he has a source that will have what I will need. The V Rail with the holes drilled is not cheap so I will be drilling the holes.

I just didn't want to deal with the dust. It will take about a week for the supplier to ship the rails. I will be taking lots of pictures so I will post them and my progress. Sean is my local expert.

I am happy to see if this works.

[smreish]

Funny,
"at last a volunteer". I feel guilty not being the one who built the first one since I was the bloke who pressured you into a redesign in the first place. But that darn skate challenge from you and JR made me hop on that band wagon last year.

This build should be pretty easy. I have a model MM to work from about 10 feet away while I am helping him build his table.

Fun to be had next week in the shop.

[sailfl]

I am greatful that there is room in Sean's shop to build my machine and that he is taking the time to do this. I think part of the reason he is doing this is because it is so much fun.

[smreish]

Sure is better than the day job

[thesaent14]

i guest i will need some help soon any one want to drive a bit south to miami lol i sure will need help i am alon here no MM 10' way :confused:

[sailfl]

Manny,

Sean is moving his shop and machine ( I think because it will be further for me to drive) but for now it is only a 15 min drive for me.

Currently, I need Sean's help, other owners and builders and the information contained on this site. I hope that when I am done, I will be able to pass on some of what I have learned. I will be happy to help.

It would be great if you could make a trip to Orlando and see Sean's MM.

[thesaent14]

i send him a pm but no answer i don't mynd driving to get a hands on idea and be able to get tips

[sailfl]

Manny,

Sean will respond. Let me know when you are coming and I will plan on being there also if I am not already there. If it is this next week, I will be there a lot working on my table.

[thesaent14]

cool let me see how my weeck looks like and ill let you know it showl be a fund drive

[sailfl]

Steel arrived and steel was cut. Used Sean's Delta 14" chop cutter. Worked great. Cut all the table channel cross bearers and parts for the side of the table.

[sailfl]

Yeepie,

Laser parts to arrive on Wed.

[sailfl]

Progress continues.

All the cross bearers are drilled and ready for taping and paint.

The X axis beams have been cut to size and await drilling.

The laser parts have been upacked and the 4 items have been counter sinked.

VWheels arrived today along with some other parts.

[Greg J]

Pictures Please. :)

[Gerald D]

Nils sounds like a happy man! :)

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Nils is having fun and Sean is also. Laser parts from Joe.

[Gerald D]

Nah, Sean only posed for the picture - his wife would kill him if he was really working steel in a white shirt. :D

[smreish]

...and I had no idea Nils took this picture. See how messy the warehouse is, we're in the middle of moving to a bigger facility. The only thing left at this location is finance, me and a Mechmate.

[sailfl]

Table starting to come together. I have also received the ground rails and they are sweet. Picture of rails tomorrow.

[sailfl]

Today, I drilled preholes in the Superior Bearing Guide Wheel Track. I decided not to buy the predrilled ones.

[ProSigns]

Looking good!

[Gerald D]

Nils, how straight are those rails when you lay them side to side? It might be interesting to you that during their production, the last step after hardening, is to bend them straight. They are not machined straight.

Are you keeping to the 3" hole spacing? Or have you stretched them a little?

[sailfl]

Gerald,

I will check the straightness but while working on them they seemed very straight.

We talked about spreading the holes further apart but decided that it would be better to follow the manufacturer's spec so the holes are 3" apart. But we are thinking of taping the holes.

It will be interesting to see what operating difference these rails make over grinding the rails. I will keep you posted.

[sailfl]

Fresh rack out of the packing tube.

[domino11]

Nils,
What did the rail end up costing you for the whole machine? Are you doing the Z slide as well, like Ed did? Seems like you are steaming along nicely! :)

[sailfl]

Things are moving along at a nice clip and Yes, I am doing all X, Y and Z with the V-Rails. If you are going to do it, might as well do them all.

I sent you a PM with the price.

[sailfl]

Update....

Took the Gantry tube to have them gaged cut so they would be the same length. Will lay the holes out and drill and tape them next.

I have Z Slide Plate and the Slide Tube. They have been machined and taped. I also drilled and taped the rails.

I have included a test assembly of the Z.

Enjoy.

[Robert M]

Great Stuff, you must be on a natural high with this project coming along ! :D:)
Keep those nice pics coming, it is motivating.
Robert ;)

[sailfl]

Robert,

Thanks. I am pleased with the progress and I am very happy with the results.

I am learning lots and so far I have only made a few mistakes. I am getting very excited. I am hoping that we will be able to start welding on Friday.

[domino11]

Nils,
Since you are using the superior rail for the z, are you just using mild steel for the plate or did you go for the tool steel? Did you have to change the width of the plate much to accommodate the rails? Great progress!

[Greg J]

Good stuff Nils,

If you think building is fun, wait till the beast is cutting. It only gets better. :)

[Kobus_Joubert]

Amen ! This machine is fantastic to have. The opportunities are limitless.

[Gerald D]

Nils, nice progress!

Did you drill your cross supports (under the table) right through both flanges of the channel?

[smreish]

Gerald
we did drill straight through. I found it was really easy to drill from under the table to get the spoilboard registration correct. Not to mention, it makes laying out all those holes A lot simpler. I did this on my table and found it worked really well.
The little helper. Sean

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Sean did not mention that the holes are 3/16" in the bottom flange of the cross bearer.

I am making good progress.

Heath, I did not use tool steel for the plate. The rails looks really good.

As I mentioned, it will be interesting to see how the MM performs with the new rails.

I hope to paint the Z plate and tube today. Pictures will continue to arrive.

[Gerald D]

Since the table material is forgiving wood, we happily drilled at an angle up through the table, and didn't bother with taper washers. The screw head compressed the wood to match the slight angle.

[smreish]

Gerald.
Good point!
Heath, Nils did not use tool steel, but we did us Cold Roll Flat 1/4 x 4" x 24" A fair compromise since Nils is using the factory made vee rail.
....back to watching Nils work in the shop. It's fun watching someone else work on the machine for a change!:D

[sailfl]

To All,

Sean my watch and he is good at that but he gives really good advise and I would not be where I am with out the use of his shop and tools.

Gantry tubes drilled and taped.

Friday, the aluminum for the rails arrives and hopefully if Sean's real work doesn't get in the way, he will weld and I will do some watching and fetching.

If there is time, the aluminum will be milled and cut to size and drilled.

[sailfl]

Sean was busy on Saturday. He welded the table so it now has feet.

Today, I cleaned the cross bearers and started to paint them. The aluminum did not come on Friday but it made it today. I have cut it to a reasonable length so it can be handled and ready to be attached to the machine. Still have to rip to size.

Z Plate and Tube painted but I am cooking them in the heat before I assemble. Pictures on these later.

[domino11]

Nils, Sean,
I like your idea of drilling through the cross bearers so you can just drill up through the support and spoilboard. Did you have any problem with drill bit wander as the channel is not flat on the inside? What was the reasoning of the 3/16 holes in the bottom? The top holes are still 3/8 correct?

Sean, It would really like to hear your opinion of the capped rail solution, cost vs time etc since you will have built or helped build both versions. I am still on the fence a little for this part of my build as I am sure some others as well.

thanks for the great pics and detailed logs! :)

[ekdenton]

Hi Nils,
Trident metals out of Dallas TX has in stock the 2-1/2 x 1 x 1/4 T6 aluminum angle, or at least the El Paso TX branch stocks it when I called about it last summer, so I assume since the Dallas Warehouse is the main supply for all Trident metals outlets that they would also carry it. I don't sell aluminum but since they stocked it I figured it was a common size in aluminum.

That way you do not have to rip or mill the one side of the angle, just drill and bolt on the rail.

[sailfl]

Ed,

Thanks for the suggestion but you are a day late. The aluminum came yesterday and I cut it to size. We will use what we have. Hopefully some one else can use your suggestion.

[ekdenton]

Sorry I been out of the loop for awhile building a tube amp for a friend:)

[sailfl]

Ed,

I just sent a 10lb piece of solid steel to a friend for his amp.

[ekdenton]

That is interesting, I did the faceplate and engraved all the part placements on the circut board with my MM. The circut board was a little hard to read even with paint in the engraved parts, but all the guys at the tube amp forum thought it was an awesome idea.:)

BTW I like how you cutt the ends of your long channels, not as sharp of an angle as there is when you cutt it all the way to the corner like most of them.

[smreish]

2-1/2 x 1 x 1/4 T6 aluminum angle just so happens to be a non-stock item in these parts of the southeast. I have no idea why. My suppliers - all 3 major - stock 2 x 1 x .25....but nothing in 2.5/ Anyway, it's a quick operation on the table saw. The major factor cutting it down is amazing not an issue since the rail will sit on the inside of the extrusion and not the edge were cutting. Therefore, the reference edge will never be violated. Another idea that Gerald came up with over "Chinese takeout food" I think? :)

[domino11]

Sean,
I think it was a Tai TakeAWAY meal if I remember. Over hear its takeout and there takeaway. ;) And the women play hockey. :eek:

[Gerald D]

Amazing the stuff you guys remember! :D

Nils/Sean, how snugly does the V-Rail sit inside the corner of the alu? Is there enough radius/bevel on the V-Rail to clear the fillet in the alu?

PS. Nice work Ed!

[sailfl]

Gerald,

We have not started to mate rail to aluminum. I can look at it today.

[smreish]

Gerald. The inside corner appears to be nice and sharp. I will let you know after Nils has finished his Drill-lots-of-holes homework. :)

[sailfl]

Yesterday, turned out to be a most interesting day.

We turned the table right side up and I started to drill the aluminum so we can marry aluminum and channel for the rails.

The interesting part was after I had packed the truck and I pushed the passenger sit back. About 3 weeks ago, I bought a 2002 Nissan Frontier King Cab. Has a small space behind the Driver and passenger sit for two very small people or for storage. Very nice White truck with grey interior. In very good shape out and in side.

That pushing of the sit back did not sit well with the rattler that was sitting on the floor behind the passenger seat. That is MM Blue rattler spray can! It along with 3 other cans were in a partially closed plastic shopping bag. One of them got pierced by the seat mechanism when I pushed the seat back. The next thing I hearding was the hissing of the can.

It took me a few seconds to associate the hissing sound to the can. I quickly grabbed the bag and pulled them out of the car because I could see blue paint. After removing the bag, I looked inside to see how much damage there was. There was blue paint in many places. There was blue paint on the outside and all over my arms, hands and body. There was also a large gabage size spot on the concrete.

I quickly ran inside and picked up a large container of Minieral Spirits and started cleaning up. Sean's associate brought me a can of Acetone.

I was surprised that I was able to clean the paint off of the inside and outside of the Truck. When I got home, I removed the passenger seat from the truck and continued to find more paint but I was able to clean it up.

It wasn't until I looked in the mirror did I see my face.

Lesson learned: If you are going to carry rattler cans in the inside of your vehicle besure they are safe from puncturing.

[Gerald D]

:D:D:D:DThat's the best laugh in a long time . . . :D:D:D:D:D


:D:D:D:D:D. . . . . it started 5 minutes ago and only now can I start typing again . . . :D:D:D:D:D

[sailfl]

Gerald,

If you had been there when the can exploded and you realized that your new truck was going to be covered in Blue paint, you would not be laughing. But yes, after having cleaned it all up and I am surprised that I have been able to get it all up, I can also laugh.

I only have to deal with the smell that is still there and I hope that I don't find more paint spots when I look in the truck today.

I thought you and the gang would enjoy my little adventure.

[Kobus_Joubert]

No that is a Mech Mate fan...even his face is Ford Tractor Blue..:D:D

[smreish]

...this is what I get for leaving Nils a key to my shop! :)

[sailfl]

Last few days, I have been dilling, taping the 152 holes in the aluminum that will hold the rails and the rails. Things are moving at a slower past but things are moving forward.

More pictures soon.

[Gerald D]

Tapping holes in alu is a pleasure with a cordless drill and some kerosene [paraffin] :)

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Taped the rails not the Aluminum.

I used both the sprial taps with a drill and hand tap. I broke the tip off the hand tape and I was able to get it out and taped the hole also.

I am learning a lot building this machine.

[smreish]

...Nils is a good student. He also is learning patience. I think he's been camped out in front of the drill press ALL WEEK! :)

[Greg J]

...Nils is a good student.

Nils has a good teacher.

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Here are some pictures.... But the rails are tight against the aluminum.

If you want additional pictures or a different view, let me know. The close ups I took are a bit fuzzie, I will retake.

1924

1922

1923

[Gerald D]

Thanks for the pics. So, do the rails fit snugly into the corner of the alu?

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Yes they fit tight. I will try and get you a close up of the end corner view on Saturday.

[domino11]

Nils,
The pictures look great. It looks like you needed two pieces of rail. What was the max length of rail you can get and what length of table are you using. The transition from one to the next looks really good. I am really eager to see what you think of the whole bolt on rail method once your machine is up and cutting. (As are a lot of others too I think)

[smreish]

The rail sections are 6' long, thus we used 2 sections.
We have offset them slightly to each other so no 2 rollers can ever occupy a joint line at the same time.
This was easier on the Y-axis - we were able to use a 3' and 4' and offset the joint lines as well.
I was concerned that I might have to root pass weld the vee-rail for alignment, but the alum angle did a fine job. It fits VERY nicely on the inside of the extrusion.
This solution works very well - so far. The proof will be in the finished machine. But I will admit, those superior bearing rails sure are nice :)

[sailfl]

Heath,

It took me about 3-4 days to tap and drill holes in the rails and the aluminum. If I would have been more careful in my transfer and hole drilling of the aluminum, it may have taken a day less. The one thing that I didn't have to deal with is the grinding dust.

I hope that when I finish that we will be able to compare the performance of the two machines since they are with in 10' of each other.

It is great having Sean and his machine to give me guidance.

[Gerald D]

This week I finally got my 20 rails (total length 60meters [200 ft]) done for 5 MM's. I will be the first to agree that those V-Strip rails on alu look VERY attractive. It might be a slow process, but it is controllable and predictable. The cutting and grinding of angle iron is economical, but hot rolled iron doesn't give you a nice accurate line to work from.

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Here are a couple close ups.

[domino11]

Nils,
Great pictures. I am anxiously awaiting the report on the new rails once you start cutting. :)

[Greg J]

Nils,

Thanks for the great reporting and pictures.

I'm starting (ordered the laser cut parts) on number 2. My rails will follow your progress.

[Gerald D]

Thanks for the pics Nils. Looks like the V-Rail has nicely rounded edges at the bottom and that it should fit snugly to most extruded alu angles.

[Gerald D]

Any particular reason you wanted to tap the rails and not use nuts?

[sailfl]

Gerald,

I don't remember the thinking behind taping the rails.

Sean, welded the Y-Car and today I painted it and started to paint the table. I have also primed and painted the aluminum - lets hope it stays painted.

Things are looking MM Blue!!!

[smreish]

Gosh my shop is dirty :eek:
This is now our storage facility, the business has moved to a much bigger plant a few miles away. For now, this will be the CNC shop until I can prep a nice room for (2) machines at the new facility.

[sailfl]

Orlando might get hit by the first Hurricane (Fay) to come up the state of FL. It currently is going to go to the West or the East or Orlando, the weather guys don't know. The National Weather Radar shows that the eye is just reaching the Keys. Orlando is suppose to see the storm late Tuesday but it could slow down due to it going over land.

Sean is battening up an install he has going on.

[Robert M]

Putting my positive thought toward you guys and wishing you all the best through this inevitable weather strike.

[smreish]

...thanks for the support. This one looks like it will be just a good gully washer.

[sailfl]

Storm update

Currently, the storm and it looks like it will be more of a tropical storm than a hurricane is moving very slowly. It hit the keys around 5PM and has only come back over land at Marco Island which is South of Ft Myers (West coast of FL). For most of the state it will bring lots of ran and some strong winds. Most of the damage will be caused by any tornados spawned by the storm.

I am currently getting no rain.

[Gerald D]

Nils, it always intrigues us when we see TV coverage of your storm damage, why you guys don't build with brick & mortar? Out here, where hurricanes are almost unheard of, most houses are brick & mortar.

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Most new construction is done with concrete block on the first floor and wood on the second floor. But many older homes were built with wood. Today new home construction has changed since we have had so much damage from hurricanes. From the foundation to the roof, it is all tied together with straps. Windows and doors must be able to with stand 140 mph winds, that includes garage doors. The building codes have changed drastically. Shingles have more nails and they are longer nails. But there are many homes that were built with the old codes and so there is lots of damage.

Naturally, it helps if you don't build close to the edge of the water. That has not changed. Everyone still wants to live right next to the water and the local city government still allow it.

A major problem we have here is getting and keeping your home owners insurance. Many insurance companies are not insuring policies close to the coast and the price is very high. After the last storm, I had to find new insurance though I did not have any claims. The price I was quoted was in some cases almost double and they wanted proof of upgraded electrical, air conditioning including new duct work and other changes. The state had to start providing home owners insurance and they are covering a substantial number of people in the state. Many companies have pulled out of the state or they only provide coverage for homes in the middle of the state.

[sailfl]

I thought that everyone watching my build with preground rails would enjoy this photo.

Aluminum painted MM with the rails attached. I think they look pretty sharp!!!

[Gerald D]

If it wasn't so darn expensive to transport those V-rails, I would use them here. Nice!

Where is your proxy target hole, or do you think that a proxy and alu are not compatible? (sensing distance typically reduces by 66%, but they usually still sense). And your plans for stop-blocks? (Screwed through from the back, or welded?)

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Sean chief engineer on sensor and stop block. I am sure he will answer.

Actually he is the chief engineer. I am learning and doing!!! I am a good order follower. I put my 2 cents in and ask questions to understand.

[smreish]

Gerald and others,
The stop blocks will be bolted from underneath the rail into a tapped block blindly.
The proximity holes are going to be as designed with the hole if the sensing works well. Option 2 will be used if the aluminum-to-proximity sensing is not up to par and we will use adhesive metal tape on the aluminum rail and only be placed in the "active" area so the sensor respond like a "classic" mechmate. This way, the sensor logic will stay the same. Either option will work very well.
Thanks for asking.
Sean

[Gerald D]

If it is not too late, I would suggest you get the "extended range" proximity switches like this one:
http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.5202/.f?category=14129

Difference is that the metal jacket does not go all the way to the nose - it doubles the sense distance. Better for alu sensing. However, you have such a consistent ride height over that alu extrusion, that you could set a proxy down within 0.5mm to sense the alu and still be okay.

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Thanks for the suggestion but I bought early and got the SI12-C2 NPN NO H.

[Gerald D]

Have you connected that proxy across your car battery and held it near alu to see when the LED lights up? :)

[smreish]

...good homework for Nils. Hey Nils, Have you connected that proxy across your car battery and held it near alu to see when the LED lights up? :)
THIS IS FUN!

[sailfl]

Gerald and Sean,

That sounds like some thing you tell the gofor to do just to see if he will do it.

When I was in college, I worked for a demo company that did mostly fire damage work. The did it all from demolition to painting. One summer they had a new guy and me, paint the basement for a client. I told the new guy that the way you mixed paint to get it really mixed up was to stick you hand in the paint and stir it. About the time the new guy had his hand and arm in the 5 gallon of paint, the owner walked in and asked what was going on. I told him and with out missing a beat, he said, "Fine, keep up the good work". He never said anything to me. I think the new guy still mixes paint using his hands. It is a longer story but I gave you the short version.

So no, I have not attached the proximity switch to my car battery to see if it can find the aluminium.

[smreish]

lol

[Gerald D]

Sean, Nils is wising up to us ;)

[sailfl]

I have reassembled the table after it has been painted. I have also temporarily installed the rails so we can test the proximity switch with the car battery.

Gerald, is it okay to have the car running?

[Gerald D]

Sure, the car can be running, but it is easier if it is standing still. :D

Oh, you mean the engine running? That's okay, but shouldn't be necessary. Your battery will be over 12V with the engine off, over 14V with the engine running. The proxy only needs 10V.

Tell me again how wide your main beam channel, and the alu angle, is? I didn't expect your rail to completely cover the channel? Not a problem at all, just unusual for me. Still looks rather good!

[Kobus_Joubert]

Wish I had those nice rails on old BBB....looking good Nils.

[Greg J]

Looking good Nils,

Like those square ends on the channels also. If you and Sean are satisfied with the Al. angles, that's what my next build will include. Watching closely.

[smreish]

Gerald,
Due to availability, Nils had to order 3" x 2" x .25 Alum angle.
Since we didn't detect any interference issues, we left the 3" alone.

[sailfl]

Thanks all.

The table is looking very good thanks to Sean.

Since we have both Sean's machine and mine, when it is done, in the same place it will be able to give a comparison between the different rails.

Sean is going to cut my spoil board in the next day or two. It is easier to assemble the machine when you have another MM to cut patterns and for a comparison.

[domino11]

Nils,
What height main beam did you go with? I want to maximize my Z height on my machine and was wondering if you did the same.

Sean,
Would a 10 inch beam be ok with the 14 inch slide? I plan on using a thick spoilboard for sheet cutting and remove the thick board when I need the extra inches on the Z for 2.5D or whatever projects, or maybe an indexer / lathe. :)

[smreish]

Heath
Currently I have a "standard" classic slide which yields me about 6" of usable overtravel height with a short cutter. This really means I can have about a 3" exposed tool bit and cut into 3" of material. I have a 8" side channel.
The 10" channel would add an average of 2" of overall travel. Yielding a net 1" increase in cutter depth and material depth to be cut. Does this make sense?

The long z stroke with extra bearings would allow for the tool bit to "tuck" up higher off the table which in my case would add about 2" of clearance.

If you have 10" channels available and you will need a 14" stroke slide to accommodate that new depth. Keep in mind, the longer the z stroke to material distance, the more deflection you "may" see at the tool - hence accuracy.

This is why I am in the process of making a VERY stiff z slide for my modified table due to this challenge.

Good luck.

But if your really only going to cut standard flat goods, I don't see the need for the more expensive side channels....unless you plan on using a table top indexer, then that extra gantry clearance would be a nice benefit.

Sean

[sailfl]

Time for a short update with some pictures.

The Gantry has been welded and painted. I hope to add VBearings and place it on the X Rails in the next days.

The X Aluminum was repainted. I have added the stop blocks, placed the rails back on and have installed the racks. Photos.

[Greg J]

WOW, I like it. :)

Nice work Nils ..... and Sean.

[Doug_Ford]

Looking good y'all. Keep up the good work.

[Gerald D]

Good stuff!

Tell us a bit more about your stop block fitted to the alu?

[gmessler]

Wow Nils, really lookin good!

Wish I had the same help you do :D

[Kobus_Joubert]

Wow, the Bolt & Nut place must like you....impressive. One of these day's you can make your own dust.

[hennie]

Good stuff!

[kaartman]

Its looking good. Very nice!

[javeria]

That's a beauty even before the finale, Sean has been a good teacher.

congrats to both! :)

[sailfl]

Gerald and others,

Gerald, I did not think about it but I will take close up pictures of the stop blocks and create a drawing for you. Basically, you have a .5 x 1 x 3 inch piece of aluminum sitting on the .5 face. There are two holes on the bottom that accept two bolts that attach the stop block to the Architectual Aluminum. The holes are countersunk in the Arch Alum. Hope that helps until I take pictures of the setup on the Y.

Thanks for all the comments about the work. Yes, Sean has been directing my efforts. I am also pleased with my own part in the process and happy with the results so far but I am getting cutting fever.

We are very lucky in Orlando. There is a place very close to me called Skycraft Parts and Surplus. They have a huge selection of surplus items they pickup. Much of the stuff they have comes from companies that have built the USA space program. They pickup the surplus that is made from NASA changing space craft. They also pickup surplus from buying the complete stock of companies that go out of business. They have been pickup up large quantities of wire and other hardware.

Most of the nuts and bolts I have purchased have come from SkyCraft. At the price of $0.05 a piece or $0.25 a doz. So when they don't have a bolt or nut I need, like what I used to attach the rails to the aluminum, I don't mind paying what it cost to buy at the bolt store in town.

I recently bought a 100' 13/2 extension cord for $34.95.

Another big place that I have been saving is in the cost of the wire. I have not purchased my long run of motor and E-Stop wire because I have been waiting for the right wire to arrive. It just came in last week. I will pay $0.30 a foot for my motor wire which is a nice savings.

Again, thanks for all the nice comments. It is great to see an increase in the number of machine that are at the stage of cutting and I am looking forward to being one of them.

[Gerald D]

Thanks for the info on the stop-block.

What is the difference between architectural aluminum and just plain aluminum? I thought the the architectural stuff was for special shapes for window frames and building finishes etc. What we are using is nothing special?

[sailfl]

Gerald,

I am not the expert in this area. Arch Aluminum from my understanding is what get the square corner on the inside.

[smreish]

The MILL spec on aluminum grades in the US follow the grade type and use.
The Aluminum used in this project is 6061-T3 Architectual Grade Alum Angle. Sharp inside corners. It is also available in 6062/3 and 5051/3 grade as well.
The "run of the mill" Aluminum angle which is almost always 6061, has a much wider tolerance on mill thickness and cleanliness.
The Architectual alum always comes individually wrapped in paper and is clean - almost ready for paint. Thus the use of it on Window Glazing Surrounds. The main reason, it gets it spec, is it actually has an interference fit rating within a few thousandths. I like to think its like the difference in HRS - hot rolled steel to CRS - cold rolled flat steel. The tolerenence specs are different. Does this make sense?

[Gerald D]

Thanks, that does make sense. We don't have that differentiation in our market. . . . . or maybe I havn't looked at it enough.

[smreish]

Details of the stop block.
2180

[sailfl]

Pictures speak for them selves!!! Things are rolling.

Yes the bolts will be tightened.

[gmessler]

really looking good Nils!!

[Robert M]

Really happy for you & your progress… Getting jealous :o
I’m looking to start soon too.
Congratulation and thanks for those pics !
Robert ;)

[domino11]

Nils,
You build is looking great. In the second pic of post 147, it looks like the v wheel is rather close to the aluminum rail? Or is it just an angle thing?

[sailfl]

Heath,

You are looking at the inside which means you are looking at Rail. Look at the second picture in post 132. What most likely through you off is that I painted the exposed part of the rail that is not in contact with the V Wheel. Every time I turned around it was rusting so I painted it. I liked the contrast of the unpainted rail but the painted rail also looks nice. Hope that explains!

Thanks for all the nice comments.

[domino11]

Nils,
Sorry, you are right. :) I knew it had to be me. No more reading after midnight. :)

[sailfl]

I have had a couple people ask me about my T3 Rail order.

For my machine, I ordered the following.

All T3 Track with no holes.

4 each 6'
2 each 4'
2 each 3'
2 each 2'

I decided to go with no holes because of the price of them cutting the holes, I decided I could drill the rails.

The maximum length was decided by the cost of shipping. 6' is the maximum lenght UPS will handle. Trucking cost are very high so I went for UPS.

I purchased them from Superior Bearing. The same place the V Wheels and Bushings come from.

Hope that helps those considering pre ground rails.

[domino11]

Nils,
Rick at superior bearing had mentioned to me that ups was ok up to 8 feet? He said that once you went to 8 foot 1 inch then the shipping went to freight and over doubled. I am now confused since I was going to place my order for rails soon. :confused: Or is 6 feet still cheaper than 8 foot lengths?

Also what size table did you end up going with?

[sailfl]

Heath,

Either I don't remember right or I heard wrong. Either way what I ordered has worked out.

The table is X 12' long Y 7' long. So the size rails I bought worked well.

I think the price is the same no matter what size lengths you get. It goes by the foot.

[domino11]

Dankie Nils. :)
That is going to be one big Mechmate! :eek: With the inspiration from your build, I have decided to go with the bolt on rails myself. Order is being made right now!

Sean, you will have to build a bigger one. :)

[hennie]

Heath like the way you say thanks!:D

[domino11]

Hennie,
Still trying to figure out a lot of the interesting language here on the forum. I have figured out some. :) Have to keep practicing for the Mechmate convention. :eek:

[Kobus_Joubert]

Mechmate Convention ...when where? ;) sounds like a plan

[hennie]

".oer.e" goeie Plan!:)

[gmessler]

sign me up :D

[sailfl]

Gerald,

I promised some pictures of the stop. These are for the gantry. You see I laid the 1/2 x 1 x 2 aluminum on its side. The Y car does clear them.

[sailfl]

As you can see progress continues.

Today, I learned I made an error when I made the slide plate. I cut it according to the plans which calls for 4" wide. I did not consider the impact that adding the preground rails would have on the remaining space for installation of the VWheels and the spider. I could not make adjustments once I installed the Z slide.

I have purchased another slide plate 3.5" wide. More drilling and taping but a better plan.

[sailfl]

Putting the pieces together. Y-Car, Z Slide, Motor, Gas Spring even tested the Milwaukee router. From this test, I decided to move the top bracket for the gas spring down so that the Z Slide is higher at rest.

Sean is closing this shop and moving every thing to his new shop. My machine will be moved to my garage. The move will be interesting.

Mechanically every thing is completed. I will add all the motors, proximity switches and wiring when the machine has been moved.

I will miss the space that I have had to work on my machine. Sean has been very generous with his shop space and time. I am grateful.

[Gerald D]

Looks good! (Why is that other machine at the back so clean?)

[smreish]

Gerald,
For once, I actually vacuumed up the mess on top and around the table when I left for the weekend. I can't wait to post the pic's of this mornings mess. It is some interesting CNC cutting to say the least.

*that's what we call a teaser!* :D

....more to follow!

[Gerald D]

*subscribe thread for audio alert of new picture post*

[smreish]

...check my thread for some photo's :)

[sailfl]

Moving Day. With Sean closing this shop, I have to move my machine to my garage. Here are some photos of the preparations and break down.

[Robert M]

Good luck on the move for both of you guys !

[sailfl]

Robert

Thanks! I think the move will go smoothly. It will be a tight fit in my garage but it will work. More pictures later.

[smreish]

...Move went fine, only one bruised toe! Mine!

[sailfl]

Sean,

Thank you so much for moving the machine from your shop and having two of your people assist in the move.

Every one,

The move did go very smoothly. The rails fit nicely on the trailer laying down and we placed the cross bearers with the MDF attached on top of them with a couple pieces of foam in between. We placed the gantry in the back of my truck.

When we got to my garage, putting the unit back together went very smoothly also. It helped to have 4 people holding and bolting every thing together. It also helped that the MDF was attached to the cross bearers. Made the process easier.

There is more room in the garage than I thought. Pictures Thursday.

I have to tighten every thing down and insure that the machine is square again. Place the gantry back on the rails and start wiring.

Sean, I hope you toe is not too bruised.

[Greg J]

Nils,

Can't wait to see the first cuts. :)

[smreish]

...toe's fine :)

[smreish]

Now, I have to get my machine ready to move next week. I'm glad my shop had a machine to learn on! :D

[sailfl]

Greg,

I am eager to see the first cut also.

Sean,

Good to hear that your toe is good. Happy that the student could help the teacher.

[Gerald D]

Nils had a blue face and now he has a blue toe. You have covered your extremities . . . guard those bits in the middle now!

Who can give me a new title for Nils' thread? :)

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Sorry but I did not have the bruised toe. Sean did! Save the new thread for later when I start cutting stuff.

[Gerald D]

I read those posts too quickly at the airport, and I tend to avoid inspecting other people's toes too closely - sorry for the mix-up. :)

[sailfl]

Progress continues.... The machine is in its new home and I have stated to install the motors and to tighten things down. Yesterday, I started to finish wiring the control box and today I hope to cut holes in the box and maybe paint.

2447

[javeria]

and you call it a tight fit Nils? enjoy cutting nils :)

[Robert M]

Woaoww Nils… This is GREAT !
So happy for you, getting close to “ take off ” ! ;)

[Greg J]

Very nice Nils.

A tight fit, but my mid section MAY block a little more sun than yours. :)

Now, let see some cutting action. :D

[domino11]

Greg,
Dont worry, I think I am in the same boat with you. :) Im going to leave a little more room than Nils did for my midsection to get around. :eek:

Nils,
Cant wait to see your first cuts. :)

[Gerald D]

Nils has cleverly positioned his MM so that he does not have to get around it. If he needs to work on the x-motor he will do that extramurally . . . . through the window! :D

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Good idea. It is tight but I can move around with a motor attached. But the design is so good, I don't expect any problems.

I have all but one hole cut in the controller box and have started to paint it. I had to repaint. The paint dept had a quality control problem. We have one last coat to add. Then I will add all the switches and finish the last of the wiring.

Things are close.

[domino11]

Nils,
How did the sensing on the Aluminum work out for you?

[sailfl]

Heath,

If you are talking proximity switches, it appears that the sensors are finding the aluminium they are just closer. I don't think it will be a problem.

[domino11]

Nils,
Do you have the standard proxies or the extended distance ones that Gerald was mentioning before? Great to hear it will work for you with the Aluminum. :)

[sailfl]

Heath,

I have the standard and I am thinking that I need the extended ones. Because of the aluminum, the sensor is very close to the surface of the material. I am calling FactoryMation today to talk with them about my sensors.

[sailfl]

Help!

I have been quietly working away to get my machine up and running. I am at the point of getting things running. I did not do a kitchen top test which may be a big mistake though we did test my motors.

Earlier I found that I had the switch components for the ON/OFF switch reversed but I have fixed that problem.

What is working.....

I am getting power to every thing.

If I push an E-Stop button things shut down.
My proximity switches register.

I can not get my motors to turn. I may have a problem with my X on the PMDX-122 I am using. The indicator light on the board is not lite for pin 2. All other motor lights are on. The power to the Geckos are on.

I think I may not have the right resistor for my Gecko 203V drives. With power on and I put a multimeter on the two connectors I am reading 4.5. No power 15.

I have the motors configured in Mach 3 as :
.......Step Pin # Dir Pin # Step Port....Dir Port
X..........3 .............2 ............1 ...........1
Y..........5 .............4 ............1 ...........1
Z..........7 .............6 ............1 ...........1

I have checked the continuity of the cables as I wired them so I believe the problem is not there.

When I jog x, y or z nothing happens. Motors do not turn on.

What do I need to check or do to fix my problem?

Thanks

[Gerald D]

When you attempt to jog "forwards" and then "backwards" (ie. change direction) do you have some LED's on the PMDX that light up?

[Alan_c]

Hi Nils

Have you checked your motor config in Mach, is it set for the correct step per unit, if too low the motors may well be turning but too slowly to see.

Do the motors give an audible "clunk" when power is applied to the Geckos? this would indicate that power is getting through to the motors.

The motor config on mine is (based on Bob Campbell Board, dont know which one you are using)

Signal, Enabled, Step Pin, Dir Pin, Dir low active, Step low active, Step port, Dir Port

X enabled 2 6 no yes 1 1

Y enabled 3 7 yes yes 1 1

Z enabled 4 8 yes yes 1 1

A enabled 5 9 yes yes 1 1

My system has a slaved axis thats why I am using A, if you dont slave then omit the last row

[Gerald D]

Motors won't turn after the setting up - PMDX-122 jumpers incorrect (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1085)

Cannot get motor to turn - Mach Ports & Pins setup (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737)

Getting comms between PC and PMDX-122 - Finding the correct port address (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1073)

Motors do not move after initial setting up - Mach setups (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1078)

[sailfl]

Gerald,

When I power the machine, now all the rights are lite on the PMDX for the motors. When I jog the step light goes out and then comes back on.

I will look at the link you have listed.

I am suppose to be using A because I have two X motors. I thought that X would drive both motors.

Thanks

[sailfl]

Thanks to everyone responding so quickly.

I thought I understood about the JP1 Jumper but I had changed it from the first time I looked at it but once I moved to the lower position the motors started to work.

I also had to reverse one set of the AA wires so that both of my X motors ran in the right direction.

I am a happy MM.

I am using my Shuttle Pro and I like it a lot. Need a longer USB wire.

I will be posting pictures soon.

Thanks again to Gerald and others.
Nils

[sailfl]

Update,

My machine is cutting since Sunday but my personal computer is in the shop - I think it is about to die.

I picked up another MDF board for my spoilboard and will glue it down hopefully Tuesday. I have to grease the racks, add logos and configure the pause and resume buttons on the machine. I have my zero laser macro working and I have been working on touch plate - I have a couple issues - it wants to drive the router deeper but I will fix that soon.

I had a little trouble configuring the router to turn on but that is also working.

I will take some pictures for evidence and request my serial number soon.

Thanks to Sean for all his help.

I had to bring in the machine computer so I can get the oem codes I need to configure the buttons.

Every thing seems to be working well.

Pictures soon.

[sailfl]

Found the "Setting up a remote push button...." thread so I will fix that easy.

Thanks Gerald

[domino11]

Congratulations Nils, Will eagerly await your next posts. :)

[smreish]

I've seen the beast in action. Nice, really smooth. I'm jealous that he already has configured the touch plate, laser offset and shuttle pro. It's still too clean - but I am sure I can help fix that problem :)

Gerald, I gave Nils a set of decals and logo's for the machine, so you can issue the serial number as soon as he post's the proof!

Congratulation Nils, it's been a long fun road.

Thanks for letting me help.

[sailfl]

Sean,

Once again, I could not have built my machine with out your help and direction. My machine works so well because of your input. I want to thank you for putting up with my phone calls and questions. I was lucky that you helped me.

[Rad Racer]

Well done! Looking forward to seeing photos of your completed machine.

[Gerald D]

Sounds like Nils is having fun. :)

[Kobus_Joubert]

Well done Nils. I hope the blue paint is off your face by now

[Gerald D]

Nils, if you still have paint on your face, you could put the decal on your forehead :D

[Greg J]

Way to go Nils !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm sure, we're all happy for ya bud.

Pictures Please. :D

[sailfl]

Mech Mate Builders,

About the time I was finishing my build and wanting to show pictures, I have had to deal with a personal computer problem. There is a very nasty virus out there.

On Friday AM after doing a complete scan of my computer with a well know virus protection software, my computer would not boot. I have a comptuer background and after trying everything that I knew, I decided to take my machine to a palce to see if they could recover my data and fix my machine.

After 5 days of them working on it, they recovered a very small percentage of the data that was on my hard drive. When I went to look at the data at their facility, they started experiencing the same problem with their computer that I had.

They have now isolated the hard drive that they down loaded the small data they recovered.

I know better but I had not made a backup for some time. I do check my computer regularly for viruses.

Be Warned! Make backups and scan your machine and becareful what you allow on you computer.

I hope today to glue the new spoil board to my machine and to add the logos. I will take some pictures in the next day or two.

I consider my personal computer has been trashed. I was planning to buy a new one with a faster processor but I wasn't planning to do it so soon. Looks like I am getting an early present.

[Gerald D]

Which virus was it?

[gmessler]

Nils,

Sorry to hear about your computer.

On a better note....congratulations on your machine.:)

[sailfl]

Thanks to all about my machine. Don't know which virus.

Today, I used the machine to be my assistance.

I glued the MDF board on today. I used two 3/4 x 2 boards across the table to suspend the MDF up off the original MDF table board. I used four clamps to attach the center of the MDF to the gantry which raised the MDF off of my two boards. To do this I had to move the router up. With the MDF clamped, I could slowly move the MDF to be able to get under it to clean and spread the glue. It worked very well and I could do the job with out any assistance.

[Gerald D]

Very innovative . . . . using the gantry to carry the top board!

[smreish]

Hey!
Did anyone notice the really nice z-axis chain in that picture :)

[domino11]

Sean,
I was just thinking that when your post showed up. I think it is the first picture I remember seeing with a Z axis chain! Looks great! :) I see Nils also got the new truck in the background for one of the shots too!

[Gerald D]

You might be surprised to see that a short shielded cable bundle supports itself without the need for a chain. ;)

[domino11]

Yes, but it does not look as cool! :cool:

[Alan_c]

Sean,
I was just thinking that when your post showed up. I think it is the first picture I remember seeing with a Z axis chain! Looks great! :)

Ahem! see here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17005&postcount=228) you were too busy looking at the wet patch on the floor that you did not notice the chain :p

[domino11]

Alan,
My apologies Sir! Only the second time I have seen it! :)

[sailfl]

I like the cable chain. I think it is a neater way to keep the wiring out of the way and in the future, I want to add a air hose for a air drill and it will work nicely for a place to run the hose.

It sure made easy to move the MDF around having the gantry available to move it.

Next, I have to attach the logos and take some pictures of the boards I have cut.

I am having fun using my machine.

[Gerald D]

There is elegance in simplicity - you guys would probably think that it is "cool" to encase these (http://www.sundancewaterdesign.com/) in cable chains. :rolleyes: :D

[sailfl]

Not so. Not everything should be surrounded by cable chain. Just cables. I bought the stuff cheap at my favorite supply house - Skycraft. It was a good solution for me.

Today I mill the MDF and put on the logos. Take more pictures.

It appears that I was incorrect about my hard drive. The second place that I took my computer has been able to save all my data.... I will believe it when I see it. They think I had a hard drive failure. What ever the problem, I am happy that I have my data back and I will start backup on more regular basis than once in every 6 months. Shame on me.

[domino11]

Nils,
Great to hear you got your data back. I like to use a large External hard drive to back up my critical data on and only use it for that purpose. They seem to be getting cheaper every day. :)

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Here is the proof.....

I already have a clamp hit and the last photo was taken through the window.

[bradm]

Congratulations, Nils!

[hennie]

Nice one Nils!

[Doug_Ford]

Happy day!!! Good job.

[domino11]

Nils,
Looks really good. Congratulations. :)

[Kobus_Joubert]

Very very nice Nils...by the way what type of truck IS that in the background.

[jhiggins7]

Congratulations Nils. Beautiful build. I've been watching your progress since I joined the Forum and I'm so pleased to see you reach this milestone..:):):)

I'll add your Serial # as soon as we get the nod from Gerald. As I mentioned, it's up to Gerald to assign Serial Numbers, I'm just "staff" to maintain the spreadsheet.

Regards,
John

[Gerald D]

John, look at the title of the thread - that's where and when the number appears.

[jhiggins7]

I didn't notice. Thanks. I'll make the update.

Regards,
John

[sailfl]

Thanks to all for the congrats. It has been fun building and I am looking forward to the fun of cutting and making money with it.

The truck is a 2001 Nissan King Cab XE. Which I really like.

Working on my learning curve for the software.

[Greg J]

CONGRATULATIONS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And welcome. The executive wash room is down the hall and to the left. ;)

[sailfl]

Greg,

Thanks

Who has the key? Or do I get my own copy?

[YRD]

Nils #12,

Congratulation from Brasil :) :D

[gmessler]

GREAT JOB NILS!!!

Glad everything worked out.

[Jayson]

Well done Nils. Another one proving that this isn't an impossible task, no matter how much it appears to be when first starting.

Jayson.

[smreish]

I am so proud.
My student has completed is his matriculation through the university and finally graduated! :D
Kudo's Nils

[Gerald D]

Kudos to the tutor, mentor & weldor!

[sailfl]

Sean,

Thanks. I know you don't like me giving you too much praise but you deserve it. So this will be the last time.

Thanks for the use of your shop, the welding and the guidance on my path to building my machine. I appreciate it.

Gerald,

Thanks for sharing your design, your plans and your knowledge. Thanks for maintaining the forum so we have a place to learn and to pass on what we have learned.

Now, I have to get out there and make some money while having some fun. I have to make you proud.

Sean, when do I get my diploma and when is the party?

Gerald, I think it is getting close to MM T-Shirts and Hats time!

[Gerald D]

Nils, you remind me that YOU were the bloke who started the nonsense on T-shirts/caps/whatever with MM logos. . . . . I must admit that I didn't have much hope of you finishing the build in those days! :D

[Roadkill_321]

Nils,

Congratulations on the completion of your machine. It looks like a beauty.
John

[Gerald D]

Just checked, Nils wasn't the only one pushing for caps, t-shirts and pocket protectors. Doug, Greg_J, Heath and GregA were also stirring the pot (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7550&postcount=33) on GregA's thread. What happened to his build?

[sailfl]

Gerald,

I am still pushing them.

I am experiencing a vibration or rumble on the X axis and gantry. If you are moving at 250 you can hear it and you can feel it if you put you hand on the gantry. At lower speeds you can feel it. It isn't along the complete axis but in spots.

I am concerned that this vibration will affect the quality of my cuts.

What do I want to try to fix it?

Thanks

[Gerald D]

Some rumbles or vibrations will be completely normal, even if the machine is of fairly heavy steel. Yours might be abnormal, so the typical things to check are:
1. Are the geckos tuned to the motors?
2. Are the pinions and racks lubricated?
3. Do the V-rollers seat properly on the rails? (rails parallel)
4. Are the grub/set screws of the pinions really tight?
5. Accel values in motor tuning not set too high?
6. Thick ground wire run through all the moving parts to ground?
7. Motor tension springs not too tight?

[sailfl]

Gerald
1. Are the geckos tuned to the motors? Yes, the motors run smoothly when they are loose.
2. Are the pinions and racks lubricated? Yes that has been done.
3. Do the V-rollers seat properly on the rails? (rails parallel)Yes they have been checked.
4. Are the grub/set screws of the pinions really tight?Yes
5. Accel values in motor tuning not set too high? 250 / 25
6. Thick ground wire run through all the moving parts to ground?Yes
7. Motor tension springs not too tight? Using the second holes and ordered the standard spring. But how do I know if they are too tight. Should I move them?

[Gerald D]

1. The motors will run smoothly when loose, but did you follow the procedure in the gecko manual and adjust the trimpots for smoothest running?
7. Motor spring tension (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1505&postcount=1)

[domino11]

Gerald / Mike,

I've lowered the accel. from 25 to 20 in/sec/sec and it seems to have made a difference. With accel set at 20 in/sec/sec, I haven't been able to reproduce the bad performance.

Always something to learn. Now, back to work. :)

Nils, sounds similar to what you are experiencing?

[Doug_Ford]

Nils,

Did you get someone to help you with the motor tuning? Or did you do it by yourself? My arms weren't long enough so I had my wife help me.

[Greg J]

Nils,

Heath and Doug have good points.

I have all my motors on the 3rd hole for the springs. It did make a difference.

5 in/sec/sec was a hugh difference in my case. I don't think the vibration is associated with the accel. setting, but, experiment with it. If the problem is accel. then you'll hear a loud scream. Check out my Youtube video (I'm thinking of entering it at "sundance" in 2009. Hey, no body thought I could build a MM. ;) )

Good luck bud.