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View Full Version : Adhesive tape for mounting the racks - does it really work and where do we get it?


Greg Holt
Thu 07 December 2006, 17:56
What have you found to be the best way to attach the rack to the angle iron?

Looked at the PDF and it appears as one bolt either end (I think)

Thanks.

Gerald_D
Thu 07 December 2006, 22:14
Drawings 1010200A and 1020200A refer. Good double-sided tape along the whole length - the bolts are only for belts & braces. 3M is the only brand name that I know making quality tapes. Use 2mm thick tape. See the VHB range (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/VHB/Tapes/). Make sure that the metal surfaces are properly degreased before applying adhesives or paints.

Bill McGuire
Thu 15 March 2007, 16:56
Gerald...
According to the drawings and posts, the racks are attached to the rails with the two end screws and double sided tape. Is there a reason one should not attach the racks (on the X axis) to the channel iron, rather than the rails?
Thanks...

Gerald_D
Thu 15 March 2007, 21:58
Hi Bill

I sense some nervousness about the double-sided tape.....http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

The channels are not an accurate reference surface, probably not straight either. There is a clearance of about 3mm between the rack and the channel. You could be spending a lot of time to fill that gap with shims of varying heights.

Properly applied d/sided tape has become accepted in the metal engineering industry for "structural" use. On the MechMate, even the d/sided tape is an overkill because the stresses on the long racks are very low. The end-screws are enough to hold the racks, the tape is only to stop the racks from sagging under their own weight.

(Those semi-trailer trucks without all the old-fashioned rivets showing, are sometimes held together with d/sided tapes.)

Bill McGuire
Thu 15 March 2007, 22:17
Actually, my thought was that there would be some flex in the rack (pressing the tape together) as the pinion gear travelled back and forth, shortening the racks lifespan and adding wear to the gears... although the tape may be fully compressed after just a few passes... in which case, the problem is a moot point.
Just a thought.
Thanks for the input...

Gerald_D
Thu 15 March 2007, 22:51
I don't think the compression of the tape is a factor at all. The pinion force is relatively low, the 16mm [1/2"] square rack is fairly stiff and the tape area is big. I did some measurements while experimenting with backlash in a non-springloaded pinion system and didn't detect any tape compression at that time.

Doug_Ford
Fri 19 October 2007, 18:04
Man, that 3M tape is strong. When I build my next Mechmate, I think I'll stick it all together with this stuff rather than welding it.:)

If anyone is looking for a good source for 1/2" wide, 2mm thick, VHB 4955 tape from 3M, try Uline.com

http://www.uline.com/ProductDetail.asp?model=S-10148

Suggested retail price is around $85 or so but Uline allowed me to order only one roll, delivered it to my house in two days and only charged $61 total.

smreish
Fri 19 October 2007, 18:27
VHB tape is a very familiar to anyone in the sign industry. Almost every local sign supply shop that carries roll vinyl, sintra or plastics should carry it. 61 dollars is a little high. You should find it for around 45-50 dollars for a roll locally.
Another good thing about VHB, it is self activating after 72 hours. Which means if you think its strong on immediate tack, wait three days.
Sean

cobra427mnsi
Tue 13 May 2008, 22:54
Just saw a show on tv last night that showed how 3M VHB is being used to "weld" the aluminum skin on transport truck trailers now instead of rivets. They showed some demos and the tape joint was much much stronger than the riveted joint. Amazing stuff!

Paul

IN-WondeR
Fri 16 May 2008, 02:30
Tape has been ordered.. Found 5 rolls of 3.5 meters on ebay for 16.5 Euro including shipping to Denmark...:-D An offer I couldn't resist....:D

skypoke
Fri 16 May 2008, 07:21
The VHB tape is also typically available at automotive paint supply stores. When I realized I'd bought the wrong stuff online (the thin film) I was able to pick up a roll of the 3m foam there at a good price.

Chuck

Kobus_Joubert
Wed 18 June 2008, 22:40
Copied from a personal thread:

Please drill and tap your 6mm holes for the racking. I left it till last because I was not sure if everything that I did was 100% up to the dimentions in the plans. I thought I will put it together, mount the motors and check that the pionions REACH the rack at the correct position. Trust me and prepare your racks to fit flush on the side of the X and Y rail...they will fit. I had to take the Y-rail off last night to drill and tap. Tonight or sometime this weekend I will have to take the X-Rails off to do the same there....lots of extra work.:(

Gerald D
Wed 18 June 2008, 23:08
Kobus, you do not actually need the screws in the end of the racks. I put them in the design for the folk who are nervous about the double-sided tape. :)

"Trust me and prepare your racks to fit flush on the side of the X and Y rail...they will fit." The perfectionists may argue the flush aspect since the drawings show those tapped holes as 7.5mm [0.3"] from the edge, while metric racks are 16mm wide and inch racks are 0.5" wide. Also, the clearance holes drilled through the rack are shown as 8mm[5/16"]. The holes in the rack can happily be increased to get the racks flush if you want - remember, those screws don't actually do anything ;). (ShopBot only use tape, and there have been rare reports of racks falling off. But, their care in selecting the tape and cleaning the surfaces is unknown)

Kobus_Joubert
Wed 18 June 2008, 23:51
Thanks Gerald, will try the X-Rail just with tape...always eager to try the UNKNOWN....maybe I am lazy as well :p

jrabeneck
Mon 10 November 2008, 08:07
I have been using a shopbot PR96 since 1999. I have had no problems with the racks coming loose. I would like to remove the racks and re-use them with the Mechmate upgrade. Is it difficult to remove the racks?

Gerald D
Mon 10 November 2008, 08:41
Jimbo, I don't know how thick your tape is, but I have had success with using a breadknife to saw through the tape and then a powered wire brush to clean off the residue.

J.R. Hatcher
Mon 10 November 2008, 09:04
My brother has removed the glued in windshields from cars using a fine wire pushed through from inside to outside then wrapped around some sticks and pulled around the perimeter of the windshield. This process just might work with racks?? Try some small fishing leader (25lb test) it's tough stuff.

domino11
Mon 10 November 2008, 09:35
JR,
I have used steel guitar strings for this purpose. Might work with the tape as well?

Rad Racer
Mon 08 December 2008, 19:04
Anybody have a partial roll (9-10yards) of VHB 4955 tape they would be willing to sell?

Thought I would ask before purchasing a new roll.

Wayne

Barman
Fri 20 February 2009, 14:11
VHB 4955 is not available in Belgium or the Netherlands.
The offered alternative is VHB 4991 (thickness = 2.3 mm)
Tomorrow ,I am going to try the Y-rack without using the extra bolts.
I'm curious about it ?

Gerald D
Fri 20 February 2009, 21:01
2.3 mm is okay

A couple of people have built their tables without mechanical stops at the ends of the rails. In these cases the pinion gears will hit the "extra bolts" and cause a bit of damage to the pinion gears. It is better to leave out the bolts/screws at the ends of the rack if you do not have mechanical stops for the gantry/car rolling off the rails.

Barman
Mon 09 March 2009, 15:59
Today I have already cut the rack loose of the rail with a stanley knife.
I know now that 3M VHB 4991 is strong enough to hold the rack under the rail.

Robert M
Thu 03 September 2009, 09:04
Hi everyone
As for this VHB 4955 Tape, I’m trying very hard ( few hrs on the net ) to find some and NIET, NADA !
Substitute, sure but 4955 series....NADA :confused:
Maybe me, but tried MSC, CarrLane, McMaster and some local one....still ZIPO :o
Again, maybe me having a difficulty searching or is it VERY hard to find ?
May someone give me a link to a valid stocking vendor or a valid replacement !
Merci, Robert ;)

OBXCNC
Thu 03 September 2009, 09:14
Robert,
Try uline.com.

http://www.uline.com/BL_6051/3M-4955-VHB-Acrylic-Foam-Tape?desc=3M+4955+VHB+Acrylic+Foam+Tape

It looks like they stock it and have a Canadian office.

sailfl
Thu 03 September 2009, 16:15
Carl is right Uline....

Robert M
Thu 03 September 2009, 17:48
Thank you V-much for this ! ;)

Doug_Ford
Thu 03 September 2009, 20:22
After I paid an exhorbitant price for a big roll of the stuff, someone suggested that I should have checked with the local sign making shops to see if they would sell me a few feet of it.

Greg J
Fri 04 September 2009, 05:59
Robert,

I ordered the wrong tape from Uline. Not the only dummy around :o

Sooo, I attached my racks to the underside of the rail with Gorilla Glue. A little bit goes a long way. Have not experienced any problems or issues. Worked great.

smreish
Fri 04 September 2009, 10:25
Greg,
Really?! What a great idea.
Did you clamp the heck out of it to keep the expansion rate even across the length of the rack? I'm going to have to go out the shop and do a metal to metal sample now!
Sean

Robert M
Fri 04 September 2009, 11:30
Greg...Interesting...
Funny as I have a plan B if I could not easely or no longer able to get the tape, I was thinking to search for some sort of glue, 2k epoxy, but never I would of thought stretching my arm to grab some polyurethane Gorilla glue for metal!!
Yep...true, Gorilla does advertises it can glue metal…dam I like this glue more & more !!

Gerald, would there be some advantages to use 3M tape aside of maybe easier to remove ?
Any advantages to have this little dampening out of the form core ??

Sean, give us some feedback about your test :eek:
Robert ;)

Gerald D
Fri 04 September 2009, 11:49
In fact, you can use use cheap double-sided tape, but if I advised that then everyone will laugh at me ;). (Seriously, even a cheap tape will do the job - if the surfaces are good)

Greg J
Fri 04 September 2009, 19:46
Sean,

Yep, I had numerous clamps. Gorilla glue expands like nothing else. I actually used too much and spent allot of time scraping the excess from expansion. Came off the metal racks easy, but 16 feet of rack took some time. :o

It's interesting what you will come up with when you get close to full operation of the MM. :)

sailfl
Sat 05 September 2009, 02:33
Greg J,

What a fantastic solution. I still have almost a full roll of that expensive 4955 tape. Your solution is much cheaper even with the additional work required. You have made it hard for me to sell off my tape.

Radishworks
Wed 09 September 2009, 10:32
Here's a great price on the 3M 4611 VHB double sided tape. $33.45 for 36 yards.

http://www.tapecase.com/p.275.79/3m-4611-vhb-3m-vhb-tape-45-mil-gray.aspx

I ordered mine from here and it arrived very quickly.

domino11
Wed 09 September 2009, 12:56
Which is better, 4955 or 4611. They do seem similar, but the prices are vastly different.

sailfl
Wed 09 September 2009, 13:13
Heath,

I used the expensive stuff but if you look Gerald talks about using cheap double sided tape. Mine was the 4955.

Robert M
Wed 09 September 2009, 15:18
Heath, as you can read in lower post #28 from my questioning on where to get this darn 4955, I’ve voted too to go with polyurethane glue. I have not done it yet, not at this stage, but surly going with this. Cheaper, as good if not better bound, and heck, I’m a woodworker by trade, I can use this stuff after...Double duty & economics!! :rolleyes:
My 2 cts... ;)

Gerald D
Wed 09 September 2009, 23:07
Maybe this is a good point to explain why the drawings show screws at the end of the taped x & y racks . . . .

The screws have no purpose for holding the rack during the normal operation of the machine. Their only purpose is as a "safety net" in case the racks fall off.

So, when selecting a tape/glue, realise that there is a safety net. It will not be the end of the world if you have a simple/cheap glue or tape system. You will end up with a very similar effect to a loose grub/set screw on a pinion, but nothing will be permanently destroyed (except maybe your workpiece).

smreish
Thu 10 September 2009, 08:20
I guess this would be a good time to tell everyone that I tack welded my racks in place after I stripped out the screw head on one end of the machine!

jehayes
Mon 09 November 2009, 12:19
I just ordered a 36 Yd roll of 3M 4955 from ULINE (the smallest roll available) and would be happy to sell the left-over to anyone interested. I am estimating I will use only about 7 yds max. Thanks Joe

foinikas
Mon 07 December 2009, 08:47
anyone know a european supplier for 3M 4955 VHB because 3m hellas does not supply in greek market this product and minimum order is 1 case.

Claudiu
Mon 07 December 2009, 09:44
Hey Sakis,

I also was not able to get the original 3M Tape but I found something similar from Tesa which I guess can be found in your country.
I will post tomorrow exact type of tape. It`s a lot cheaper and does the same!
Here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=33163&postcount=72), second pic you can see the tape being used on the Z.
Greetings
Claus

KenC
Tue 08 December 2009, 00:49
I found some double sided tape that can hold 2.8kg per cm2 in my local stationary shop and later in local car accessories shop. They are a fraction of the VHB, about US$2~3 per 2 meter roll. It looks exactly like what Claus used.
You may get lucky looking around your area.
Seek & you shall find.

Hope this helps

Claudiu
Tue 08 December 2009, 02:57
Hey Sakis,

I also was not able to get the original 3M Tape but I found something similar from Tesa which I guess can be found in your country.
I will post tomorrow exact type of tape. It`s a lot cheaper and does the same!
Here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=33163&postcount=72), second pic you can see the tape being used on the Z.
Greetings
Claus

The Tesa Product Code is 55751. I have to ad that I also have mounting holes drilled at 100 mm in all racks, so the glue strengh is not so important in my case. It is transparent rubberlike and more a damper having a thickness of 1 mm.

Greetings
Claus

Gerald D
Tue 08 December 2009, 04:30
I have tried a transparent rubber (chewing gum?) type tape I spotted in our hardware shop the other day and I was not impressed with this particular brand. I would use any 3M tape (even not VHB) before using some other unknown brand.

Claudiu
Tue 08 December 2009, 05:11
Gerald,

Tesa Tapes is very well known Manufacturer in Europe. If you watch their Site you will find a lot of specialized Tapes for different industrial applications with modified acrylate glue which I guess it´s the same 3M uses.

foinikas
Tue 08 December 2009, 05:52
Thanks i am going to check around for other brands i wall call 3m hellas again since Gerald suggest and others tapes outside this specific code they told me that have some others tapes that maybe will do the job.
Gerald can you give as some codes of the tapes outside VHB or general spec so i will be able to ask them and let them have a better view of what the needs are.

Gerald D
Tue 08 December 2009, 09:09
In 3M's range, I think you can use 4955, 4991, 4655, 4957, 5962, 4979, 4956, 4956F, 4016, 4026 or 4056.

In tesa's range, I see 4978 & 62936 (Greece office (http://www.tesa.gr/))

foinikas
Tue 08 December 2009, 10:11
Thanks Gerald .

woody
Wed 09 December 2009, 11:33
I dont know if this has been posted yet but a trick to getting the tape to stick really good is to use a heat gun. Stick the tape to the backside of the rack and then run a heat gun over it for a few minutes and then mount it in place on the rail. The only way I could get it to come off after it cooled down was to apply more heat to it again.(I had to replace to rack for the z axis)

KenC
Wed 09 December 2009, 23:27
Thanks woody for the tip.
Need a little elaboration, when you mentioned heat, what type of temperature do you mean, From where I'm from, our indoor ambient temp w/o air-conditioning don't go below 30 degree C. Metel under sun (not even hot sun) can reach 65~80 degree C. Do I still need to apply heat?

domino11
Thu 10 December 2009, 08:50
Ken, We just got out from over 20cm of snow. You are making me jealous. :)

woody
Thu 10 December 2009, 11:42
I just run a heatgun over it till its soft and gummy so it sticks really good. I maybe heat it for 2 to 3 minutes(with the heatgun on high setting) and its good. Just as long as its soft and warm it will stick good. It may be warm enough where you are Ken that you dont need to heat it up. When I put the rack on for the x axis it was drooping in the middle so I clamped it up and a few hour later when I removed the clamps it was doing it again so I clamped it again and took the heatgun and ran over the areas that I had problems with and when it cooled down it fixed the problem.

KenC
Sat 12 December 2009, 22:38
Ken, We just got out from over 20cm of snow. You are making me jealous. :)
Don't be too envious, its monsoon season, we had about 1-~20cm of rain daily for nearly 2 weeks & finally see some sun yesterday. In case you ask, yes, there are light flash floods everywhere.

Rob, thanks for elaborating, I did pull out a hair dryer to experiment and my alternative tape nearly melted... I played with it for a while & the best result is to heat up the metal to about 40~50 deg. C, but like you said, I probably don't have to apply heat after all.

In my case, surface rust, scale, dirt & oil on the surface are the worst enemy just as Gerald said.

lumberjack_jeff
Mon 14 December 2009, 11:19
FWIW, I used a tube of construction adhesive. I know that the stuff works better with porous materials, but so far so good.

The racks are secured with screws on either end after all, so the adhesive only serves to prevent the rack from sliding under the screws and to provide some support in the middle.

Also, the pinion is held against the rack (and consequently the rack against the rail) with a spring.

If it fails, the rack will rattle against the rail - no biggie. I'll then buy some sort of double sided tape and do it the right way.

Someone has to try the stupid things. Might as well be me. The way I figure it, I'm adding to the worldwide body of knowledge in a way that doing things the right way can't. ;)

domino11
Mon 14 December 2009, 12:00
Some good inventions and inovations have come about from someones mistakes. cyanoacrylate adhesives were originally a mistake. :) INFO (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate#Discovery)

samuelcpaul
Sat 30 January 2010, 00:27
Hey all,

Nice and Fun being here.. folks, Got to look at the patch to fill the need either by glue or by tape..How about getting the glue under the rack .. as Smreish.. told.. was nice.. I really appreciate the idea from Greg.. too .

Paul.

.
.
safe adhesive tape (http://www.tesa.co.uk)

Gerald D
Tue 02 February 2010, 08:24
Any volunteers to downgrade the spec on the tape? :)

Because I knew there would be scepticism about double-sided tape to hold the racks, I nominated a very high-spec tape. This is proving expensive and hard to find. I am convinced however that even the cheap, common tapes will work perfectly, provided that they are about 2mm thick, and that the mounting surfaces are good.

Give it a go . . . I am sure it will work. :)

riesvantwisk
Tue 02 February 2010, 09:29
I am already volunteering for that! We couldn't find any 3M here, so we had to go for something that's called 'fanTape' available in rolls of 3, 5 meters at 18mm for around 1USD/meter.
It's the stuff you find in any hobbyshop/hardware store.

We also found white tape and much cheaper that came from china, but that didn't stick well on my finger at all (opened the package in the shop..... :D)

So far it sticks for about 2 weeks now, and I don't think it will fall off any time soon, I like it actually because it give a bit of extra flex to the racks.
I initially tried two small strips of 5cm on each side of the rack, as a demo for my father in law and even that worked without problems.

Just don't use the plastic tape, often found red colored you must use the foamy double sided tape.

Ries

lumberjack_jeff
Tue 02 February 2010, 10:54
My Home Depot construction adhesive so far is working fine.

Optimum? Heck no! :D

sailfl
Tue 02 February 2010, 11:04
Gerald,

I was looking for some new tape and I found some duct tape that is double sided. I suspect that it would work. It is sold at Lowes in the USA and is manufactured by Shurtape.

Gerald D
Tue 02 February 2010, 12:31
I think that duct tape is too thin. The spongy 2mm thick stuff can accommodate the small lumps and bumps on the unground side of the angle iron.

jeffa
Tue 02 February 2010, 13:12
I was having a little trouble finding the 3M tape at a reasonable price. Then I stumbled on this at an Autozone store... $9.49 USD

Hopes this helps someone else.

Jeff

domino11
Tue 02 February 2010, 13:55
I have seen a demo board for PL Premium construction adhesive that had about 30 different materials all bonded together. Pretty amazing stuff. You would probably have a hard time getting the racks OFF if you had to. :) Maybe some heat would help the removal.

Gerald D
Tue 02 February 2010, 20:02
The things that work in our favour for "sticking" the racks, with tape or glue, is the length and the huge contact area. That's why I decided to use screws for the short Z-rack. But I won't be surprised if tape/glue worked on that short rack as well.

riesvantwisk
Wed 03 February 2010, 05:28
oops.

I must have read the PDF incorrectly... I am using the tape for the Z aswell.
It looks good to me so far, but my machine hasn't been run for days in a row yet.

Ries

KenC
Wed 03 February 2010, 05:35
oops.

I must have read the PDF incorrectly... I am using the tape for the Z aswell.
It looks good to me so far, but my machine hasn't been run for days in a row yet.

Ries

Now, that is good mistake! I'll follow suit :D

J.R. Hatcher
Wed 03 February 2010, 06:18
I personally used tape, not 3M, but the cheap stuff ($2 USD a roll) and it's been working great for 2 years now. With that said, I'm wondering why not use a product something like GE silicone. With the rail upside down, clean both surfaces with denatured alcohol and just glue the rack in place making sure to have the 2 end bolts in place, let dry for 12 +- hours???

Robert M
Wed 12 May 2010, 04:01
Hi Robert,

I found that you had a problem using glue (gorilla) gluing racks to angles. At the end what glue did you use? Did you use 3M VHB tape? Do you have some extra, and if you do, are you willing to sell it?

Regards Milosh

Hi Milosh,
This happened to me because two inevitable variables.
1st, the matting surface of both pieces, angle iron + mains beams are just a little too rough for this glue.
2nd, It’s a glue that does not tolerate much ( if any) air gap / space between the matting pieces.
So, I ended up buying a roll of this 3M VHB tape because it has this little thickness to it enough to tolerate this rough surfacing out of structure steel I got. Some structure steel may get to you with a baby skin surface. PLUS, I could see many other future usages for the extra left out of the 100ft roll.

This is what happened to me when I tried some of this lesser quality 2ble face tape, ONLY because I have rough surface out of my steel.

9480


In my opinion, if your stick to plan by having these rack mounted to the angle iron with screws at both ends, any descent quality adhesive or exterior silicone will do lots better job than any polyurethane glue ( gorilla is one of them), that is only once you are certain & confirmed that all is in proper position and can move to a semi-permanent position.
The beauty of the VHB tape, even if it is VERY strong bond, it can be remove and have the surfaces clean a little easier than glue or silicone even if some glue of the tape remain on the surfaces.

ONE last recommendation, if tape of silicone to be use, I opted to wait after painting was done & cured, it make it easier to clean if for some reason you need to remove to re-position !

Hope this can help you & other too,
Good luck
Amicalement, Robert ;)

digger
Wed 12 May 2010, 06:14
Thanks Robert,

it is loud and clear. :)

Milosh

Zouave
Thu 27 May 2010, 18:39
On Fastenal's webpage, they list a 1.1mm VHB tape from 3M. I was curious if this would work in lieu of the 2mm that the plans call for? Is there another location where I might find this cheaper? Uline seems to be significantly more expensive. Anyone interested in buying the unused portion of the roll for a fair price?

riesvantwisk
Thu 27 May 2010, 19:14
Eric,

I went to a bookstore where they sell that double sided tape.
up till today, a couple of months this just works fine.
as long as it's foamy, and is making good contact, you should be fine. The plastic type of tape doesn't work well.

smreish
Thu 27 May 2010, 19:52
Eric, That's a very common request. Ask around, someone is bound to have some to sell you. HEY DOUG F. or GREG...You have any left?

Chapman
Fri 16 July 2010, 06:29
I think adhesive tapes will be the best idea for it to attach...



adhesive tape manufacturer (http://www.tesa.co.uk/consumer/basics)

Gerald D
Fri 16 July 2010, 08:28
Why do I think that Sam of post #57 and Chap of post above are employees of Tesa tapes? :D

Tesa is a reputable brand and I am surprised that they feel the need to spam forums? :confused:

Greg J
Sat 17 July 2010, 06:52
When I was in the construction of my MM, I bought the wrong adhesive tape. When your in the phase of attaching the racks, its pretty close to finish. In my excitement to get the beast operational, I used Gorilla Glue. I've been operating for approximately a couple of years now and the Gorilla Glue is still holding. I do have another set of rails and racks, but the original set shows no sign of wear. Just make sure you grease the pinion and rack every now and then.

Eric, That's a very common request. Ask around, someone is bound to have some to sell you. HEY DOUG F. or GREG...You have any left?

Jason Marsha
Sun 18 July 2010, 21:34
That 3M tape in post #63 is very strong. I stuck a sign onto a door with that tape and had to replace it two weeks later after the client wanted a different sign. When I tried to remove the sign I ended up with the sign in my hand along with the tape fully attached to the back of the sign and part of the door stuck to the tape. It actually held so tightly that the top layer of the door came off with the tape.

ahe_1990
Fri 23 July 2010, 10:07
Hi,
I hope someone can help me,
I am looking for some 2mm double sided which 3M sells, could some help me by posting the product code. I have tried some cheap double sided but was totally useless :mad:

Adam

Gerald D
Fri 23 July 2010, 11:36
VHB 4991 (http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSu7zK1fslxtU4Y_ZN8mxev7qe 17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--) is mentioned on the UK site (http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/Construction/ConstructionMaterials/Solutions/AdhesiveBonding/DoubleSidedTape/), but suggest you give them a call at 0845 602 8083 to get an economical option.

(But, even the best of tapes won't stick if the surfaces have traces of grease, or other dirt.)

danilom
Mon 02 August 2010, 16:14
I used this and it looks like it holds racks great, 10m = 7 eur
it was cheap but it says its for metal pieces. I attached piece of PCB to my desk with same tape and will try to remove it after a day or two
here is datasheet from manufacturers website, it says 0.8mm but it looks to me a bit thicker, maybe after it dryes it will shrink.
http://sicadgroup.com/contenuti/prodotti/pdf/DS019EN_REV03_770PROFIL.pdf
http://www.md-tim.com/mechmate/tape.jpg

Red_boards
Tue 19 April 2011, 22:13
The following summarises discussion with Biolink, a local Vicco supplier (John Baker if you are in Queensland)
:
One 25m roll of 12mm Flexlink 1100R double sided tape initially recommended
> This tape is only 1mm thick and my plans call for 2mm thickness.
> The plans suggest any of the following from 3M's range: 4955, 4991,
> 4655, 4957, 5962, 4979, 4956, 4956F, 4016, 4026 or 4056
> Please let me know whether you have any of these that I could substitute
> for the 1100R.

Prolink 2000R recommended, described as Ultra High Bond Clear - 2mm
thick - 12mm x 16.5M
http://www.tapesonline.com.au/double-sided-tapes/ultra-high-bond-clear.html

For small orders buy online at www.tapesonline.com.au. Express delivery by Australia Post.

Gerald D
Wed 20 April 2011, 02:57
I said 2mm on the plans in case the C-channels were of really bad quality with dips and lumps. (A 2mm tape will absorb about 0.5mm of "roughness" I guess). You can decide if you can go thinner, or need to go thicker . . . .

mike nelson
Wed 23 November 2011, 23:00
Im just new with my build but i have been forum searching (reading,reading,reading) and i would like to put my 2 cents regarding this thread.......i am a bodyman and we use autobody panel adhesive to glue quarter panels and such and when applied and clamped over night there is no way you can pull it off. That is what i am going to do when i install mine.

oliver2257
Thu 24 November 2011, 15:15
Mike,

This looks like a great suggestion. Makes it easy to make adjustments and then clamp firmly. Have you found it critical to have very close surfaces and thin film? How critical is the heat for set up? Some epoxies will not set or get gummy (amine sheen) below 65 F.

mike nelson
Sat 26 November 2011, 09:33
Stephen, the bottom side of the rail could have some irregularities....the panel bonding adhesive has some body to it, to apply the temp should be no colder then 55/60 F. You can buy it at any autobody supply store.

Tom Ayres
Tue 24 December 2013, 17:47
I know its been awhile since anyone has posted here, but, I found some 3M 4956 adhesive tape for $30.00 US (until gone) for 36 yards x 1" x .062" Grey at this link, http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/, I buy from these guys regularly so I feel they are trustworthy.

rcboats1
Tue 24 December 2013, 18:29
Sold out.

Tom Ayres
Wed 25 December 2013, 03:26
wow that was quick.

chunkychips
Mon 12 May 2014, 02:54
Are people attaching the tape to a painted rail (bottom) or to bare metal. About to paint and was wondering if I should leave the bottom of the rail clean.

Tom Ayres
Mon 12 May 2014, 03:05
I attached to clean painted rail. Those who had not painted their mm obviously direct to steel.

Robert M
Mon 12 May 2014, 03:08
painted rail !
With proper bare metal prep....paint will stay :rolleyes:
;)

KenC
Mon 12 May 2014, 04:50
Painted rail!
I'm too lazy to paint the rail after the rack is attached. But was hard working enough to sand the rail to white metal with a hang grinder before I paint.

darren salyer
Mon 12 May 2014, 05:58
I degreased my metal with acetone, painted everything with Rustoleum paints, and attached my racks with the tape referenced in post 63 of this thread. No bolts on ends, just tape.

dbinokc
Mon 12 May 2014, 07:30
No paint on the bottom of the rails, but cleaned with acetone before mounting the X and Y racks with tape. I did use screws on Z.

riesvantwisk
Mon 12 May 2014, 07:41
On the paint, no issues what so ever

chunkychips
Mon 12 May 2014, 22:15
Ok. Painted sounds like it works. Still I might mask off the tape area before I paint if I don't get impatient.
Thanks for the input all.

pblackburn
Tue 13 May 2014, 15:40
I attached to prepped clean metal with the tape. No problems with unpainted.

servant74
Fri 04 December 2015, 13:08
VHB4599 Tape is available as a stock item on Amazon in the USA. At least today.

jehayes
Sat 05 December 2015, 08:29
thanks

darren salyer
Sat 05 December 2015, 11:12
Update: 1200+ hours on tape. No problems yet. Truthfully, I've done nothing but routine maintenance, and not very diligently. A robust design.

smreish
Sat 05 December 2015, 19:41
VHB is the way to go....holding strong since 2007

pblackburn
Sun 06 December 2015, 18:37
I have one side with VHB and the other with standard double sided foam tape. I did this as a test to see which one held better. Both are still holding fine. The key is prepping the metal so there are not any oils or debris that will interfere with the adhesive.