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dmoore
Sun 27 April 2008, 15:41
Thread was closed and archived on David's request approx end-June 2008. Due to some later friction, I took away his posting privileges. On 30 July it transpired that he had re-invented himself as TrueCNC. A new thread on TrueCNC was moved to the bottom of this thread . . . .

Let me first introduce myself - I am David and I live in Houston Texas (actually near the Woodlands), in the US. I am a fulltime software engineer for a large chemical company. In my spare time, I build mostly art projects - art cars and sculptures in metal. In the fall of 2007, I finished my new 1,300 sq/ft workshop that now allowed me to have enough space to pursue CNC. I spent tons of time on cnczone.com looking at all the options for a plasma/router combo table. I came along the plans for the MechMate but I knew that I would have a long road to go down with just the CAD/CAM/Mach 3 and general terminology of CNC. So, I saved off the MechMate plans and decided that I would build a smaller MDF based CNC machine and see how well that worked and if I could master the necessary skills. Well, I did build the smaller CNC machine and faired pretty well (see attached). I was amazed at what I could do with such a basic machine.

I tried to think ahead and purchase MechMate items that could be transferred over - the PMDX, the Gecko's, Mach3, etc (see attached). Well the time has come to build the MechMate. I started like I think most people do - printing out all the plans and pouring over them until I felt I had a pretty good grasp on how everything went together (I highly recommend printing them on 11"x17" paper in landscape). Next was to assemble a bill of materials. There were a few attempts at a BOM but they were a bit short on detail so I decided to create a highly detailed BOM (see attached) with every washer, bolt, nut, motor, wire, etc - everything. That took about 30 hours of researching, reviewing it against the plans and researching vendors. I currently have ordered about 4,000$ and expect the total (excluding software, Gecko's, computer, etc) for the table (including motors, sensors) to come in at about 4,500$ to 5,000$. I will be releasing the complete BOM once I complete my machine and verify that everything listed is complete and exact.

Continued in next post...

dmoore
Sun 27 April 2008, 16:17
I started out by ordering as many of the parts as I could. I personally expect that the research and ordering of parts is as much as 25% of the total build time - we'll see. I am trying to stay as close to the plans as possible but I've decided to deviate from the plans in the following areas:


Legs - Instead of channel, I am using 2"x2" box tube
Cross Bearers - I will be bolting instead of welding due to weight issues (and I have to move in 5 years)
Rails - I will be using ground angle, though it's dimensions will differ from the plans (not Gerald approved)
Gantry Tube - I will likely be welding the Y rails to the gantry tube instead of bolting as Gerald did in his orginal MechMate


I will be building with the following options:

Optional X-Axis Chains
Optional Proximity Sensors (18mm instead of 12mm)
Geared motors with 30 tooth pinion
Milled/Ground Angle for rails


My first purchase was steel. This seems to be were the most variability occurs - steel is a local purchase and varies in price and avaiaiblity on a vendor by vendor basis. There are a number of steel vendors in Houston - most of them cater to companies but one is more of a "wal-mart" of steel and sells in single stick quanities without any minimum and are even open on Saturday. Of course they are a bit more expensive but they usually have what you want and it's easy to get. SSS Steel is my steel vendor (www.sss-steel.com). They also have a great reference of common US steel sizes here: http://www.sss-steel.com/front/frReference.asp . Here are some photos of my steel order and my special trailer that I use to bring home full 20' sticks of steel:

dmoore
Sun 27 April 2008, 16:37
Here are photos of my other parts. I'm still short the rack, motors and paint but everything else is here. I ordered my laser cut "full options" kit (see below) from jbmclain (Joe) in Alabama for $420 (including shipping), including non-v groove bearings with the geared motor option. Highly recommend Joe if he is still doing group buys on parts.

I ordered nearly all my bolts, nuts and washers from www.boltdepot.com. I ordered everything except for the carriage bolts and nuts/bolts for the skate in stainless steel insted of zinc finish. It was only about 90$ for all the nuts and bolts (see below). I highly recommend them - I will have each of the part numbers from them (in stainless) in the BOM. They ship quick, the price is good, you can purchase quanities as small as 1 and they package EACH type of bolt/nut/washer in a seperate bag with the description and part number - which the BOM has a cross reference back to the specific page the parts are used on.

I ordered most of the misc parts like the cable management, springs, gears, etc from McMaster-Carr. They ship quick, the quality is always the best and the website is super easy to use - the downside is you pay for what you get. Most of the stuff is brand name - the gears are Boston Gear, the cable chain is Igus and so on. I understand they are not so great when it comes to shipments outside the US, but inside the US - el premo. In the photo (see below) you will notice that I went with adjustable, non-skid feet with insert for the 2x2" legs I've decided to go with.

The remainder of the items came from Automation Overstock (www.automation-overstock.com), Factorymation (www.factorymation.com), ACE hardware outlet (www.acehardwareoutlet.com), WT Tool (www.wttool.com), Superior Bearing (ww.superiorbearing.com) and K2CNC (www.k2cnc.com) - all shown below.

dmoore
Sun 27 April 2008, 16:47
I started with cutting the cross bearers for the support board. I used a 14" chop saw and cut them at the suggested 60 degree angle. I cut one and then used it as a pattern for the remainder of the cuts and it came out pretty good. I did have to re-set the circuit breaker about 50 times but they did cut - total time was about 3 hours. Another 30 minutes or so to clean up the welds. See photos below.

smreish
Sun 27 April 2008, 19:15
I'm Jealous. You found a steel vendor locally that had MC series ship building channel. Very square, very straight, very heavy :) My choice for the next build for certain. I just like the wider flanges.
I would appear you have prepared for your build quite well. Good luck.
Sean

Doug_Ford
Mon 28 April 2008, 10:26
David,

WOW!!! I wish I was half that organized. Best of luck. I think you are wise to try to stick closely to Gerald's plans. I never intentionally deviated. :D That's a lie. I deviated in one area because I thought I knew how to do it better and it has caused me grief ever since. Every square inch of this design was thoroughly considered by him and I don't believe it can be improved.

Just out of curiosity, why are you welding the Y rails to the gantry? I wouldn't recommend it because making adjustments will be impossible. And you are definitely going to need to make adjustments. Bolting them was a piece of cake and they're rock solid.

I love your trailer and shop. Good luck with the build.

dmoore
Mon 28 April 2008, 11:35
Every square inch of this design was thoroughly considered by him and I don't believe it can be improved.

I would say that you are completely correct. Of course needs drive the design - Gerald designed the MechMate for himself and around those needs he had. Gerald has been nice enough to adjust the design to be flexible to meet more needs that originally designed for - issues like X, Y and Z lengths/height, cable management, local availability of parts, speed and torque, etc. He has even made great efforts in adjusting the design for availability of skills and tools (rails). Though I think to say it's not likely the design can be improved upon isn't completely accurate. Think - pull top soda cans, cars, pretty much everything on the internet, etc. There is often room for improvement in a design that meets a specific need.

Just out of curiosity, why are you welding the Y rails to the gantry?
Why did adjustments need to be made? If the rails are parallel, wouldn't the adjustment be made in the y-Car shims?

I love your trailer and shop. Good luck with the build.
Thanks - It was nice to move up from my 600 sq/ft workshop to 1,300 sq/ft with attic storage. I do worry about how much junk I will accumulate in the coming years to fill the space and how I move that to the next house. :)

dmoore
Mon 28 April 2008, 11:40
I'm Jealous. You found a steel vendor locally that had MC series ship building channel. Very square, very straight, very heavy :) My choice for the next build for certain. I just like the wider flanges.

You are correct on the MC channel - it is only .5 degrees off from 90. I purchased that single channel from www.intselsteel.com (a division of my normal steel place, SSS Steel. They have places in Houston and San Antonio Texas. I guess Houston is somewhat blessed since we have so much industry south and east of Houston.

Gerald D
Mon 28 April 2008, 12:50
Dave, after I welded the rails to the gantry, the whole assembly was put into a huge planer/grinder which ground the rails parallel to each other.

CabntMkr
Mon 28 April 2008, 19:02
Thanks - It was nice to move up from my 600 sq/ft workshop to 1,300 sq/ft with attic storage. I do worry about how much junk I will accumulate in the coming years to fill the space and how I move that to the next house. :)

I haven't posted yet on these forums. But i just have to respond. I'd be happy to come down to Texas to take any "junk" off your hands my friend. You're off to a beautiful start, I'm going to keep my eye on you. Hope to start one of my own before too long.
regards, and good luck
Peter

dmoore
Mon 28 April 2008, 23:38
I haven't posted yet on these forums. But i just have to respond. I'd be happy to come down to Texas to take any "junk" off your hands my friend.

I'm sure they have plenty of junk near you. :) I'm always on the lookout for good deals and I've found plenty of them over the years. Most of my best deals come from business auctions. I may only go to one "good" auction a year where I walk away with items for pennies on the dollar. Some of my best finds are most of my entire hardware store nut/bolt/washer/screws collection - all for $350 (see below). Or the warehouse rack I use for my steel/materials storage and work bench, about 25ft worth (see below) - $1000. Another good deal was all the lab cabinets in my current shop - 18ga steel with tempered glass fronts - $250 (see below). And the best purchase I've made recently was the roll around "bat cart" I use for my CNC control machine - it's a medical computer and thus it's all grounded/surge protected/shielded, has more aluminum in it than I paid for it, came with a touch screen LCD and even had a $1000 (on ebay) digitizer that works with Rino... all for $225 (show in post #1).

Search around in the auctions - I usually can find enough to sell on ebay or craigslist to cover the items I end up keeping. Plus, I'm starting to see a bit more good stuff going to auction now than in the past few years.

Doug_Ford
Tue 29 April 2008, 10:29
Why did adjustments need to be made? If the rails are parallel, wouldn't the adjustment be made in the y-Car shims?

Lot's of things seem like a good idea before you do them. The point I'm trying to make is that Gerald is not some "mechanical engineer wannabe" who slapped these plans together in a few weeks. He's the genuine article with decades of experience in his career field designing and building mechanical devices.

Right now, lots of guys reading this forum are probably looking at some of the parts or reading some of the processes Gerald's recommending and wondering why? Well, I can tell you that more than once, when you actually start putting the parts together, you're going to understand why he designed things the way he did and you're going to get a big grin on your face.

I'm not a mechanical engineer but I do know a few things about welding, machining, and turning wrenches and I've built a MM. I wouldn't deviate from anything Gerald recommends.

Gerald D
Tue 29 April 2008, 10:43
Okay, let's not discuss me too much! :)

No home, or average factory, will be able to weld the rails on straight. It might start straight before welding, but after welding it will be crooked. That is just the nature of typical welding. If your rails are straight before and after welding, the welding is very weak because there was not enough heat to fuse the metal. Good welding WILL distort the rails/gantry tubes.

dmoore
Tue 29 April 2008, 22:50
Right now, lots of guys reading this forum are probably looking at some of the parts or reading some of the processes Gerald's recommending and wondering why? Well, I can tell you that more than once, when you actually start putting the parts together, you're going to understand why he designed things the way he did and you're going to get a big grin on your face.

Doug - I trust in faith on some thing, others I'm more along the line of "trust but verify". I believe behind every good technical design is sound logic. For the same reason I wouldn't tell a customer "just trust me - I've been working with this product for 15 years" - I provide them the reasoning behind my decision.

This is now a mute issue - Gerald has provide an excellent reason why (see above) he wouldn't weld the rail to the gantry tube. I think that is an excellent reason to make the extra effort to bolt as opposed to weld the Y rails.

Doug, I can already see based on reading just about every post on the forum that nearly every design decision is backed up with real work understanding. I sometimes think we can learn more from what doesn't work as what does work. It's great to see people post dead end roads they went down and projects that didn't work - this helps everyone understand how we arrived at the "right" solution. I'll be posting a few of my mistakes later....

Thanks!
david

dmoore
Wed 30 April 2008, 12:07
Well I've given up on welding the Y rails to the gantry tube and now I'm going to bite the bullet and buy the materials needed to properly cut the rails down to the required 1.1" as my steel supplier doesn't sell the 2"x1 1/4"x1/4" angle. The Aluminum and steel rail combo isn't really any cheaper either, even with tools.

As to the progress... I've drilled all the support bearers. Since I am building a bolt together table, I've drilled 1/2" holes for bolts through the support bearers for attachment to the flange of the main beams. I also stamped identification numbers so if in the future I have to reassemble it, I can get it in the right order. Total time to measure, stamp, punch, drill and then redrill was about 2.5 hours. Here's a tip (I suspect that most people may know..) when measuring out the holes for the outer and inner (on center line of the channel) - find the center and set that on your caliper. Drag the caliper along the outside edge of the channel, scoring a line.

smreish
Wed 30 April 2008, 13:14
wow...you drilled that by hand and not a drill press? You must have had your wheaties today :)

sailfl
Wed 30 April 2008, 16:53
David,

What is the stuff in the yellow aerisol can?

skypoke
Wed 30 April 2008, 19:09
David,

In hindsight, I'd recommend going with the mfg. track and alum angles. I did not, however, use "the skate" and maybe my take would be different had I done so. You might also want to check the spec on the angle, I don't think it's 2" but 2.5". I ended up with many boring hours invested in grinding angle for a 6' X 20' machine.

Interesting place the Woodlands. My wife and I were one of the first residents there back when it was just hollowed out from the pines. We still have our place in Montgomery but have lived in Port Aransas for the last 15 years. Drop by and visit if you're down this way....

Chuck

dmoore
Wed 30 April 2008, 23:36
What is the stuff in the yellow aerisol can?

It's drill lubricant.

wow...you drilled that by hand and not a drill press? You must have had your wheaties today

I have a drill press but it was easier to leave all the channels on the table and drill them with an corded drill. With the drill lubricant, you can get nice large chips so it doesn't take long and the holes for the support board didn't need drill press accuracy.

Thanks,
david

dmoore
Wed 30 April 2008, 23:43
In hindsight, I'd recommend going with the mfg. track and alum angles. I did not, however, use "the skate" and maybe my take would be different had I done so. You might also want to check the spec on the angle, I don't think it's 2" but 2.5". I ended up with many boring hours invested in grinding angle for a 6' X 20' machine.

I can only imagine how long it takes to do rails on a 6' x 20' machine. What do you do with such a large machine?

Interesting place the Woodlands. My wife and I were one of the first residents there back when it was just hollowed out from the pines.

I used to live inside the 610 loop but the company I work for moved from downtown to the Woodlands. I really liked being in-town but it means giving up no less than an hour of your day to the commute. So, we gave in and moved near the Woodlands (I don't think the Woodlands is too keen on routers running at 10pm at night).

skypoke
Thu 01 May 2008, 06:38
The larger table is to accommodate 20' sheets of marine grade aluminum. My interest in the Mechmate was sparked by a prior building experience. We had a 30' alloy power catamaran (offshore fishing boat) designed by a naval arch. in New Zealand. The digitized cut files were emailed to us then to a cutting service in New Orleans. They cut the parts on a plasma cutter. Long story short, we now own a fantastic vessel which we built over a 1.5 year period. I would like to have a 40 foot table but don't have the material handling capacities to feed such a beast.

We will build some smaller craft when we have the cutting capabilities. My interest has turned to hydrofoil supported catamarans and the Mech will also give us the ability to mill some of the larger airfoil surfaces necessary to const the foils. There may also be some experimental aircraft components sneaking their way onto the table.

I've been a lurker on this forum for a while. When I get the shop cleaned up a bit will shoot a few shots of progress on the table and maybe a couple of the boat.

Chuck

dmoore
Sat 03 May 2008, 23:14
Today I turned the hold-down idler stub shaft. I'm happy to say that my first ever attempt at turning turned out ok. I used a cheap Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93212. I turned mine a little to loose so that the press fit was more like a push fit so I tapped a hole and put on a fender washer to make sure it stayed in place. Photos below.

dmoore
Sat 03 May 2008, 23:40
A few suggestions on cutting the main beam:

Don't use a plasma cutter - the arc wanders too much
Use an 1/8" metal cutting disk (or maybe 10)
Use a right-angle grinder 10amps or better, the 7amp units don't cut it
Make sure to have corse grinding wheels
Watch your toes and fingers if you are handling the beams by hand
Be sure to wear a dust mask

Gerald D
Sat 03 May 2008, 23:43
Those thin Pferd disks in the small Bosch grinder will also do it as easily and quickly as the bigger grinder with the thicker disks.

Hey, havn't you just bought a metal saw?

dmoore
Sat 03 May 2008, 23:52
I scrounged around and found some 5 1/2" x 1/4" plate and then trimmed it down to the 3.5" width to close in my beams. Cutting them wasn't a big deal but the welding, and dressing took about an hour to get them really clean. I used a corse grinding wheel for the first run and then a flap disk to smooth it all out. I'll finish the small gaps on the inside later with bondo to obtain a completely smooth finish. Then, when I was done, I used my belt sander to clean off some of the mill scale and rust.

dmoore
Sun 04 May 2008, 00:14
I'm bolting on my support bearers to the main beam instead of welding them on. I'm using 1/2" bolts on mine. Shown in the photos is layout of the support bearers, making sure to off set to the proper side. I then clamped on the end cross bearers and measured everything and then laid in the other cross bearers. I then used a transfer punch to mark the main beams from the existing 1/2" holes on the bearers. I then drilled a pilot hole and then the 1/2" holes. Be sure to use plenty of cutting fluid and a corded drill. I then bolted the centers in and then drilled and bolted in the remaining ends.

I did make one mistake - I measured off the edges of the main beams to line up the edges of the support bearers, where I should have added 1/4" to each side. Nothing major.

All said and done, it turned out completely square and parrallel.

sailfl
Sun 04 May 2008, 05:48
Very nice David.

dmoore
Sun 04 May 2008, 17:48
I also stamped identification numbers so if in the future I have to reassemble it, I can get it in the right order.

Note to anyone building a bolt together machine - I HIGHLY recommend stamping the cross bearers and the main beam so that you can properly rebuild it later (or when you take it apart to paint). I'd recommend stamping the numbers/letters so they are visable from the top when asembling. Also be sure to mark a Left/Right or A/B so you can determine which side the bearer is attached to.

dmoore
Sun 04 May 2008, 21:23
For the legs I elected to use 2" x 2" x .120" wall tubing since I feel it looks a little more finished and I didn't mind purchasing another type of steel. More importantly, it allows me to use these nifty little nylon inserts from McMaster-Carr (60945K31) and these really nice self leveling feet (6111K373) also from McMaster-Carr.

For the bracing, I am using 2" OD x .083" wall tubing. For the tube on tube action I am fish mouthing the joints using paper templates.

To crush the ends where the tube meets the beam and legs, I used my shop vice. Does anyone have suggestions on a better way to form the crushed/oval ends?

Even though the cross bearers are bolted, I will be welding the side supports back on after I paint it. The tinking is - if I need to disassemble it in the future, I can just cut off the side supports, move it and then re-weld it upon reassembly. The main beams with the legs and supports is liftable my one person, so with the boltable cross bearers, it makes the MechMate "somewhat" portable.

dmoore
Sun 04 May 2008, 21:44
I finished the legs and support structure, so now it's time to flip it over and reassemble it. I propped up one main beam with my workbench and then with the two end cross bearers attached to the other beam, I lifted it upright and then attached it to the other beam. Once both were attached, I "walked" it crab-style into position where I squared it up and then attached all the remaining cross bearers. All done it was within 1/4" square.

dmoore
Sun 04 May 2008, 22:16
Gerald - while I assembled the Y Car I couldn't help but keep thinking - "He gives this away for free?" The tabs popped right into place and the finished appearance is top notch. Other than some confusion about the pictures for the weld-up being for the orginal MechMate and which side the the counter sunk holes go on, it all snapped together perfectly. Here here Gerald!

I know that Gerald says that clamps aren't neccessary but rather than risk it and to close a few small gaps, I put a few clamps on it.

When it was all said and done, it turned out completely true and straight.

Gerald D
Sun 04 May 2008, 23:39
It looks like you are having fun!

I always enjoy it when laser cut parts "clip" together . . . . . . . all thanks to CAD / CAM / CNC.

We flatten pipes with a hydraulic press. A key to the flattening is to take a big bite . . . . . if the pipe in the jaws is too short, it slips (spits) out as the pipe tapers. I can also do a pretty decent job with a hammer and anvil . . . . .

Helsingtwelve
Fri 09 May 2008, 22:21
David
I will start to build the controller this is what I want to work with first, yes I have a small cnc machine to Play with the controller till i start building the table (bench)

Then step 2 and so on and on we go

RLH3
Wed 21 May 2008, 11:01
And the best purchase I've made recently was the roll around "bat cart" I use for my CNC control machine - it's a medical computer and thus it's all grounded/surge protected/shielded, has more aluminum in it than I paid for it, came with a touch screen LCD and even had a $1000 (on ebay) digitizer that works with Rino... all for $225 (show in post #1).


Do you have any details on the make and model of the cart you use? It looks like it would be perfect for another application that I have ( and possibly to eventually be used for a CNC controller! (SWMBO willing and I can find space to put it!))

The picture seems to have been deleted, If you could post another one it would also be helpful.

Thanks,
Roman

domino11
Wed 21 May 2008, 11:23
David,
What happened to all your pictures? :(

dmoore
Wed 21 May 2008, 15:30
What happened to all your pictures?

I was running out of space. What I think I'm going to do since the space is an issue is collect ALL my photos (currently about 157 of them) of the build in full-res and post them as a collection along with the master BOM I'm getting close to finishing.

dmoore
Wed 21 May 2008, 15:35
Do you have any details on the make and model of the cart you use? It looks like it would be perfect for another application that I have ( and possibly to eventually be used for a CNC controller! (SWMBO willing and I can find space to put it!))

The picture seems to have been deleted, If you could post another one it would also be helpful.

It's highly unlikely you'd find one - it's actually a untrasound system for prostates. I purchased it from a medical research hospital for about $250. If you keep your eyes peeled, you can find systems simular at other auctions (not ebay). The medical stuff tends to be top of the line as opposed to the industrial stuff.

I've attached photos of the "bat cart"

RLH3
Wed 21 May 2008, 16:50
Thanks. I was really attached to the idea of a cart with an enclosed space for the electronics and such. I have a friend who is a building engineer at a hospital so I will have him keep an eye out for something similar.

Once again , thanks for the speedy reply.

Roman

PS how goes the BOM?

dmoore
Wed 21 May 2008, 21:27
PS how goes the BOM?

I still have to populate the times for each individual task, finish the steel lookup table and then re-verify all the parts when I disassemble it. I'm also still working out minor issues like the cable chain laying flat, dust collection and l electrical parts.

It's 10 work sheets and the BOM has over 150 different items.

domino11
Thu 22 May 2008, 19:10
I was running out of space. What I think I'm going to do since the space is an issue is collect ALL my photos (currently about 157 of them) of the build in full-res and post them as a collection along with the master BOM I'm getting close to finishing.

David,
Talk to Gerald when he is back, I know he could up your picture allotment for you. He mentioned this before. I am looking forward to you bom as it will definately help others. Your build looks great.
:)

dmoore
Thu 22 May 2008, 19:59
Talk to Gerald when he is back, I know he could up your picture allotment for you. He mentioned this before. I am looking forward to you bom as it will definately help others. Your build looks great.
:)

"For this forum, I have set a limit of 195kB per .jpg file, and each user can save a total of 3 000 kB worth of all attachments for the whole forum. (might be able to revise this in future - depends on the expense)"

From:
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4018&highlight=space+pictures#post4018

htrowrod
Tue 27 May 2008, 16:12
Hey David, great job! I only wish I was half as organized as you. You mentioned photo's and a boom would be attached. I couldn't find them anywhere.

Where are you at now with your MechMate? What was the other CNC that you built? Do you still have still have it? How big was the table on it?

I am only in the dream stage at this point, but I do plan to build one.

Bruce

dmoore
Tue 27 May 2008, 22:48
You mentioned photo's and a boom would be attached. I couldn't find them anywhere.

I will release full-res versions of the photos when I have fully completed my build. Right now I am finishing up the dust management system. I then only have to do the final electrical (e-stops, USB ports,nPod inputs/outputs).


Where are you at now with your MechMate? What was the other CNC that you built? Do you still have still have it? How big was the table on it?


It's completely functional - I've run two 4x8 sheets through it so far. The other CNC machine I built was a "trainer" model from www.buildyourcnc.com (http://www.buildyourcnc.com). I do still have it and when I have a moment, I'll sell it. It was about 36"x28". My MechMate now is 100"x52".

dmoore
Wed 04 June 2008, 00:42
It seems that the MechMate is starting to pay for itself. I received my first 30 piece order today! I have also been working up custom moulding (eyebrows, rosettes, picture frames, wainscoting, etc) samples for co-workers and shot the following video of the MechMate doing 3D cuts at 400+ IPM. That Z is getting some serious action!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ge_X_4BVTwM

Kobus_Joubert
Wed 04 June 2008, 03:56
Hi David,

Can you post some pictures of the stuff you are cutting. I cannot access Youtube from work and at home with a modem connection also to slow. Thanks

Gerald D
Wed 04 June 2008, 04:35
David, this type of post belongs in your personal thread or the "catchall" thread. You must please stop cluttering up the General thread.

Robert M
Wed 04 June 2008, 04:39
Welcome back Gerald !
Whishing you well on the work load and other stuff been awaiting for you !!
Robert ! ;)

javeria
Wed 04 June 2008, 04:53
There is something always to keep G' busy!

BTW good working on ur mechmate David.

G' might be we can have a thread for videos alone? on the main sheet - I mean for the links on youtube.-with a warning that it will consume lot of bandwidth.

RGDS
Irfan

dmoore
Wed 04 June 2008, 08:26
David, this type of post belongs in your personal thread or the "catchall" thread. You must please stop cluttering up the General thread.

I'm confused - the General section has the following: "Welcome to this forum for folk with an interest in building CNC gantry routers that typically take about 3 - 5 HP routers for tables of 4 to 12 ft (1200 to 3700mm)". So when I read this it seems that any talk of MechMate or other CNC gantry based systems with routers is ok. No idle chit-chat about your work, what's on TV, etc.

The "catchall" section says: "Anything not directly connected to constructing a MechMate CNC table system". This seems like where you post the idle chit-chat stuff as long as it doesn't involve the build process.

It seems we should just get rid of one or the other forum, with any actual build process discussion being moved to the respective forum. The biggest issue I, and it seems like others also have, is that the personal threads offen contain really good nuggests of information about individual process but that information needs to go to the individual process forums. That is one of the reasons I stopped posting to my personal build log and started making individual posts about an issue or improvement in the sub-forums.

Also, can we have a sub-forum for dust mangement and hold down systems (or expand the description on the base table forum)?

I'm all about playing "by the rules" but the rules about where and what to post are somewhat confusing.

Thanks,
david

Gerald D
Wed 04 June 2008, 09:04
How does your video help to build a MechMate?

Regarding the posting in personal threads.......from time to time I pick out the good posts from the personal threads and duplicate them to the other threads or even create new threads from a couple of posts in a personal thread. It takes a while before the good stuff finds a place of its own - I can't really start to move them while there is a hot debate on the go.

Your posts are safe in your personal thread - at the other threads I "prune" quite agressively, but generally at a time when the thread has gone cold.

Yes, it is a very unconventional way of running a forum, and I make no excuses for that. Neither am I going to write a rule book for what is "allowed" here, because then I can change my mind all the time! :)

dmoore
Wed 04 June 2008, 09:14
How does your video help to build a MechMate?

Regarding the posting in personal threads.......from time to time I pick out the good posts from the personal threads and duplicate them to the other threads or even create new threads from a couple of posts in a personal thread. It takes a while before the good stuff finds a place of its own - I can't really start to move them while there is a hot debate on the go.

Your posts are safe in your personal thread - at the other threads I "prune" quite agressively, but generally at a time when the thread has gone cold.

Yes, it is a very unconventional way of running a forum, and I make no excuses for that. Neither am I going to write a rule book for what is "allowed" here, because then I can change my mind all the time! :)

Ok - thanks for the update. Can you delete my personal thread (49" x 97" MechMate Build detail log - Houston, Texas (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12172#post12172))? I'll restart it later when I'm completely done with my MechMate.

Thanks!
david

Gerald D
Wed 04 June 2008, 09:18
If you really want, I will delete it after I have scanned it for stuff to move to other threads.

dmoore
Wed 04 June 2008, 09:23
If you really want, I will delete it after I have scanned it for stuff to move to other threads.

Absoutely...

dmoore
Wed 04 June 2008, 23:06
Clarification.... I have been informed that my request to have my thread deleted may have been interpreted as "I'm taking my bat and ball and going home". This was not the case. I asked to have my thread removed because 1) After reviewing it, it read like a "first draft" and contain inaccurate information that I later corrected in other posts 2) I had removed the photos to free up space 3) I didn't feel that it contained anything "new" that wasn't already know 4) I wanted to heed the direction of Gerald and post improvements, corrections and issues in the specific sub-forum (as I have since done) to make it easier for future MechMate builders to find, instead of it being buried in a personal thread 5) I wanted to start a new thread in the near future, showing the final, refined product.

I'm not leaving (if it matters) and hope to contribute going forward, in-line with the requests of those that be.

Thank you,
David Moore

domino11
Thu 05 June 2008, 09:26
David,
Great to hear. I along with others have really enjoyed your posts and contributions to this site. I look forward to your future posts as well.

Mike Nash
Thu 31 July 2008, 15:23
Maybe it's old hat. I just found something on CNCZone http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=483296&postcount=12 thatprompted me to do a web search.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=712LnZtRFXQ

Complete with Sean's Mamba Logo design.

J.R. Hatcher
Thu 31 July 2008, 15:52
That looks like David Moore's dust foot???? Something smells fishy.:confused: You've got to agree it's a nice design for a CNC machine ..... but something seems to be missing ...... oh I know what it is ...... it's the MechMate logo decals.

krabenaldt
Thu 31 July 2008, 16:12
I always am hunting the internet for cnc router info and came across this on you tube about 2 days ago. It does look like David's. I think he talked about routing the cables through the cross arm and has the laser centering.

Copying is the highest form of flatterly.

Marc Shlaes
Thu 31 July 2008, 17:02
There is NO DOUBT. It looks like he took Gerald's bat and ball and went home.

Sad.:(

smreish
Thu 31 July 2008, 17:38
I hope David is reading this...your stealing the MechMate design and violating the user license agreement. You can and should be prosocuted by law.

sailfl
Thu 31 July 2008, 17:46
The guy not only took the creation of Gerald but of other users from MechMate site and CNCZone. It is sad. But it speaks to the character of the man that takes from others and uses it to gain for them self.

domino11
Thu 31 July 2008, 18:25
Yes this is definitely David. Someone else on CNC zone asked if it was a Mechmate and he said yes and no. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2649967
You can see my reply there as well. Sorta turns my stomach. :(

ger21
Thu 31 July 2008, 19:05
Gerald, I sent you a PM at CNC Zone. let me know what you want me to do.

Robert M
Thu 31 July 2008, 20:47
Gerald flared this guy right… no wonder why he shot him down…
Universal laws will shot him down everywhere too.
If this is David, looks like it, what a low life ! :mad:

domino11
Thu 31 July 2008, 21:43
Anyone who is a member on the CNCzone site should report his posts to the moderators. Every post has a red ! on the top right corner of the post to report it for problems. Just a thought.

Gerald D
Thu 31 July 2008, 22:45
This thread now closed for time being. The posts here will be moved to David's original personal thread, which will be taken from the Archive and put back to the "Personal" forum (done - here).

David (truecnc.com) will be allowed to respond - he needs to send me a mail to tell me when he is ready to post his response and I will open the thread for him.

Gerald D
Fri 01 August 2008, 09:35
CNCzone asked me whether they should take David's advertisement thread down. My reply to them was that it was their choice. That thread at CNCzone has since been removed. A google on truecnc gives a couple of hits. No word from David.

silverdog
Fri 21 August 2009, 11:10
This moved from another thread:

No other comments to say
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9wC94iPA0o

Gerald D
Fri 21 August 2009, 11:34
Sergio, we know of David Moore's antics. No need for further comment. This thread stays locked.