View Full Version : Welding Up The Table!- Maracaibo, Venezuela
hevertg
Thu 18 July 2013, 20:31
hello, greetings MechMate lovers. excellent forum not stop reading, I'm from Venezuela and empese and buying parts,
yesterday buy the rack and pinion Module 1.0 8 mtrs in total cost me 529 dollars in canada buy them in this store: http://www.motiontek.ca/index.html
next week I'll be buying the engine and driver: the engine is this and chose the driver:
NEMA34 640 oz-in Stepper Motor 4.5A (KL34H280-45-4A)
Gecko G203V Stepper Driver 80V, 7A
http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/gecko-drivers/gecko-driver-g23v
please if you have some recommendations for me, I beg the help.
preferably paypal payments, currently HAVE A 1200 dollars to buy the driver and motor
my project with MechMate is create one that can use it with: rauter plasma cutter.
greetings to all the forum especially the forum Gerald_D excellent job creator friend, and I have time for here, did not have the money for expensive invercion is right now in my country, but I can and I started already.
thanks hope some comments that might help me at hello.
pardon my English use a translator
isladelobos
Mon 22 July 2013, 13:09
Felicidades por ese comienzo, me apunto a seguirte en tu construcción.
Como puedes ver yo tengo la mía under construction desde hace miles de años, a ver si le doy un empujon.
Supuestamente tu mesa es de 3x2 metros
Saludos.
parrulho
Mon 22 July 2013, 13:46
Pa'lante maracucho :)
if you need help I'm in Curacao, next you
paulus
Mon 22 July 2013, 14:57
Hi hevert
Welcom and you will have a lot of fun building the MM
Regards
hevertg
Mon 22 July 2013, 17:43
erga ahora es que hay de los nuestros por aqui, jajaja
isladelobos yo tambien tengo rato tratando pero sabras con es la cosa aqui en venezuela con los dolares jajaja, si quiero una grande
parrulho panita y tu tienes MM? que compraste por venezuela? en bolivares jajaja, me avisas si hay algo para comprarlo de una.
paulus ty
bueno yo ya empese a comprar partes ya me compre los rack y pinon que costaron como 570 dolares en canada, ahora voy por los motores y los Gecko G203V pero estoy esperando que paypal me permita comprar no he confirmado las tarjetas se tarda aveces. bueno muchachos saludos
hevertg
Tue 30 July 2013, 10:55
hello, greetings, please'm buying today the engines, but I hesitate queiro help me to choose the engines. I can not buy me the 7.2 are very expensive for me. but I can buy these:
whom I recommend them? I buy them? I want to learn to pick my engines, but do not understand many things even though I read a lot in the forum, if someone gives me an instruction I would read all the to to understand for myself and to help others in the forum, greetings hope can help.
isladelobos
Tue 30 July 2013, 16:36
Helvert.
Motors & their mountings (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1114)
I have the motionKing motors.
sailfl
Tue 30 July 2013, 17:11
I have the more expensive motors but I would buy the motionking motors and build belt drives.
hevertg
Sun 11 August 2013, 21:32
good, buy you steel this week to start working with my MM, future numbers? lol, I will try to be as accurate as possible to the original, I did some drawings that are perfect for construction because you can take action and everything. Google SketchUp is very good.
I have the files in Google SketchUp if somebody wants me know
http://imageshack.us/a/img546/715/gkx4.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img706/1130/7dez.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img856/6799/78tf.jpg
parrulho
Mon 12 August 2013, 00:33
looks good.
hevertg
Wed 14 August 2013, 20:02
hello sir, I tell her as I go with my purchases:
I bought all this: PS-8n63, PMDX 122 34HS9801, rack and pinion, laser cuts mike, gecko drive 203V, Spindle 2.2, 3:1 gear XL, I can buy you more than I need?
hevertg
Thu 15 August 2013, 23:27
hello, I need help, I can use UPN 240mm Beam profile for rails X?
KenC
Thu 15 August 2013, 23:54
If you are buying from Deitech, do get extra length of rack. You might have to discard 2~3inches of the ends. Even so, its still a bargain...
hevertg
Fri 16 August 2013, 00:08
If you are buying from Deitech, do get extra length of rack. You might have to discard 2~3inches of the ends. Even so, its still a bargain...
hello friend, do not speak of the rack, and buy 7.5 meters, I'm talking big steel rails October 10 320.
in my country it is difficult to find 10 10 320 steel. I found one but 3000mm * 240mm * 75mm, if that's okay? or is very heavy and big?
hevertg
Fri 06 September 2013, 18:59
hello, greetings where I can buy these screws
http://imageshack.com/scaled/medium/585/8hvm.jpg (http://imageshack.com/photo/my-images/585/8hvm.jpg/)
KenC
Sat 07 September 2013, 00:58
Nothing wrong with 75x240x300mm. Some of us here like it big and heavy.
Is that for the W-wheel? Is it a screw with built in concentric bush? You can use the if you like but a simple screw works just fine.
hevertg
Sat 07 September 2013, 10:18
hi ken, thanks for your answer, if I have the opportunity to put a single screw, but I want to be more Cadre, I would buy those screws, just not where to buy them? you can say that I find? I have searched a lot.
Is that for the W-wheel? yes
hevertg
Thu 14 November 2013, 10:14
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/9628/760v.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/760v.jpg/)
greetings, people MecheMate. my toys are arriving to start divercion lol
where you can find information on how to connect:
PMDX 122 + 34SH9801 + G203V + PS8N63R12
Please need help
hevertg
Thu 14 November 2013, 10:28
[IMG]http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/715/gkx4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/gkx4.jpg/)
parrulho
Thu 14 November 2013, 16:34
Hevert, it's all on plans and here at the forum. send me an email with your questions and I'll help you (in spanish).
paulo
hevertg
Wed 27 November 2013, 15:21
MechMate Hello friends, I'm in my test control box, but I have a problem and my 34HS9801 8 wire motors: Amariya, blue, green, orange, red, white, black, brown. ok in the planes of the MM, connect (Red and Yellow Phase A + A-phase) (Black and Orange Phase B + Phase B-) ... Now what to do with the other 4 wires: Blue, White, Brown, and Green?
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/833/uok3.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/n5uok3j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/855/u432.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/nru432j)
hevertg
Wed 27 November 2013, 16:23
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/843/yfsk.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/nfyfskj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/c/18/ve44.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0ive44j)
hevertg
Wed 27 November 2013, 16:25
Help is well connected?
just to test that everything works
http://imageshack.com/a/img843/1140/yfsk.jpg
Tom Ayres
Fri 29 November 2013, 21:50
Looks like you need your resistors on the geckos and you have a look at your other 4 wires on the steppers, how are they to be wired? Bi-polar series, bi-polar parallel or unipolar, you will have to pair them properly, its the set up you used to help you choose the power supply. I haven't really looked at the other wiring.
hevertg
Sat 30 November 2013, 21:50
hello tom: half coil
had an error with the black wire, and change it to white, it caught all good, but when you connect the parallel port, the plate 122 pmdx led all turned dull, turn it off and went back to fast on and lit a fire ship in the plate
and i do not know why I spend so conctado if everything was ok, the problem arose when connecting the cable from the parallel port,
has the parallel port cable original cable some different settings?
I probe the small connector db25 pin 20 and all had good continuity.
I could go there?
two images: 1 all working, and the other the ship burned.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/21/il6q.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0lil6qj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/841/tpwn.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/ndtpwnj)
Tom Ayres
Sat 30 November 2013, 22:11
Are you saying that your board burned up? that wouldn't be good. In the picture of posting #23 I see no resistors on the gecko drives, have you put the resistors on? Does the PMDX 122 have a 'test mode' you can run? If it does you will want to run it first before connecting to the computer. I have the PMDX 126 which does have a test mode set up. Find the wiring diagram for the steppers and wire them accordingly. http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256&highlight=half+coil+winding 2nd or 3rd posting down. Good luck.
hevertg
Sat 30 November 2013, 22:44
UNIPOLAR
http://imageshack.com/a/img201/822/nhi.gif (http://imageshack.com/i/5lnhig)
if he seems the pmdx 122 is burned, if the resistance be installing the morning, pmdx 122 has test mode? I do not know friend, you know how? of 8 cables connected only have 4 in this image: a-a / / b-b, red and yellow .. white and orange
Tom Ayres
Sun 01 December 2013, 06:14
If you have 8 wires, pair them like the first image, if you have only 4 wires then they will likely be directly connected to the drivers.
Your manual for the board should have the information about test mode(s) if any available.
Page 6 of your manual shows an example set up, that's all I can recommend for the board to drivers connections, like I said, I do not have the 122. If all does not work, you may need a new board.
You will have to look at the geckos for the resistor values, the steppers help determine the amperage required to operate properly. Again I did not use geckos so you will have to find the information throughout the forum, in your manual, or on a support website. Sorry but I can not help you on this part.
hevertg
Sun 08 December 2013, 20:21
starting cuts for my MechMate, I hope to finish it quickly, I'll be putting pictures of my progress
will of 3100 x 2200
http://imageshack.com/a/img547/4609/f04f.jpg
Cutting
http://imageshack.com/a/img716/2127/e1ju.jpg
Me
http://imageshack.com/a/img801/4973/3http://imageshack.com/a/img545/497/nniy.jpg3ub.jpg
Fair cut
http://imageshack.com/a/img801/4973/33ub.jpg
I LTD50 LOTOS Plasma Cutter, very good
Tom Ayres
Mon 09 December 2013, 03:14
That's a nice clean cut. Keep up the good work.
Richards
Mon 09 December 2013, 10:07
The wiring diagram posted on November 30 is incorrect if the 4-wire diagram is used (assuming that the diagram for the 8-wire connection is correct).
I don't have a 34HS9801 motor, so I can't tell you which wires to connect. It is easy to find out how the motor is wired if you use a multimeter. Start by connecting one lead of the multimeter to the Red wire and the other lead to the yellow wire. If the diagram is correct, you should get a low resistance reading. If the diagram is not correct, then you will need to connect one lead of the multimeter to each of the other wires until you find a wire that gives a low resistance reading. When you find the correct wire, you have found the two wires to use for the "A" coil. The next step is to verify which other wires are part of the "A" coil. In the November 30 diagram, the Red, Yellow, Blue and Black wires are shown to be connected to the "A" coil. Connect your multimeter to the Red and the Black wires. Twist the leads from the Yellow and Blue wires together. You should get a low resistance reading, if the diagram is correct. Go through the same process for the "B" coil.
Assuming that the diagram is correct, you would connect the Red wire to the PHASE A terminal on the G203v, the Yellow wire to the PHASE /A terminal, the White wire to the PHASE B terminal and the Orange wire to the PHASE /B terminal. If the motor turns in the wrong direction, exchange the White wire and the Orange wire.
The 34HS9801 motor is rated at 4A. The correct resistor is about 60K 1/4-watt. Any standard resistor that is within 10% of 60K would work. Using less resistance lowers the maximum amps that the G203v will allow. Using more resistance will increase the maximum amps that the g203v will allow. BE CAREFUL, allowing too much current to flow with greatly increase the temperature of the motor and the G203v. Connect one end of the resistor to one Current Set terminal and the other end of the resistor to the other Current Set terminal.
The 34HS9801 motor is rated at 4.1mH inductance. That means that you can use a power supply that produces 64VDC maximum. I recommend a power supply that is 10% less, because of heat, but I don't have that motor so I cannot tell you how hot it will run at 64VDC. Many stepper motors are rated to run at 80-degrees Centigrade. I like to run motors at a maximum of 55-degress Centigrade so that I don't burn my fingers if I touch the motors.
Going back to the diagram. If the diagram is correct, you would put tape or some other insulation on the Blue wire, the Black wire, the Brown wire and the Green wire. Those wires will not be used. They must not touch anything.
To make wiring simple, I crimp an insulated ferrule on to the end of each wire and then I connect each wire to a terminal block.
I'm attaching a photo showing an OrientalMotor PK296-F4.5A motor connected to a terminal block.
hevertg
Wed 11 December 2013, 13:47
thanks tom, mike connect: the connection of cables is 34HS9801 //A RED A-YELLOW// B WHITE B- ORANGE// and all well test and.
I'm using a font, PS-63NR12
hevertg
Sat 27 September 2014, 21:27
relived hello, good friends start again slowly, I'm making the holes that grip angle rail, tomorrow I hope to finish them, to assemble the table.
I also get my pmdx 122, that burned the last time because the power supply instead of giving 17v and 12v gave me the pdmx burn, and my repaired for free, just had to pay shipping from Venezuela.
now mount all the wiring again on my test box but can not get the motors to rotate, see photos here who can help me thanks and regards to this beautiful community XD.
http://sim1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/09/28//140928054158347640.jpg
http://sim1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/09/28//140928054152347639.jpg
http://sim1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/09/28//140928054150347638.jpg
http://sim1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/09/28//140928054145347637.jpg
http://sim1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/09/28//140928054139347635.jpg
http://sim1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/09/28//140928054141347636.jpg
I hope that the images are not very large
KenC
Sat 27 September 2014, 22:43
WOW!!! The most impressive test box to date!
Do you mind sharing where you get your relay board? and its detail.
hevertg
Sat 27 September 2014, 23:27
Hi KenC thanks. Clearly I can
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-12V-Relay-Module-With-Optocoupler-For-Arduino-DSP-AVR-PIC-ARM-/221465665817?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339061e119
no installation diagram with 3-wire NPN and this kind of realy
if you buy it help me configure mine lol. because I aller turning head explode as installing and neutralize if reaches its limit.
can you give me a brief: Explanation? what function do the NPN and the resulting pin? pause the process? the driver turns off? shuts down the whole system?
KenC
Sun 28 September 2014, 01:31
The connection for NPN NC proxi swith is somewhere in this forum... I don't keep track of the info since I am not in any hurry to install mine... :p
racedirector
Sun 28 September 2014, 02:27
Its here, I am using Seans diagram that works perfectly. Have a look here....
http://mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9780&postcount=71
smreish
Sun 28 September 2014, 02:58
Haven't seen that diagram in a while. One small error on that ... It's really only 12vdc and blue line is ground not -12vdc....which would be a 24vdc differential. Still works perfectly after 7 years on number 28
hevertg
Sun 28 September 2014, 22:33
Today progress
I hope to see it up tomorrow XD
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_9092569img35652.jpg
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_9092566img35662.jpg
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_9092565img35642.jpg
progress today, rail hole X
and my motors move, tomorrow I'll post a short video running, I'm very happy to finally get started on my project MechMate, thanks for the friend helps and I hope you can help me more, to be the future of others thanks
hevertg
Mon 29 September 2014, 23:26
hello, more advancement and iron
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_9094509img3595.jpg
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/fotos/previo/thump_9094511img3596.jpg
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/fotos/previo/thump_9094514img3597.jpg
my table will be ready soon
and a video of my box contro working.
http://youtu.be/ce4rFFIOIH8
hevertg
Mon 29 September 2014, 23:36
The connection for NPN NC proxi swith is somewhere in this forum... I don't keep track of the info since I am not in any hurry to install mine... :p
hello ken watch this video, do not know if the connection is good, help me if wrong XD
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IVDW-Zk3sg&feature=youtu.be
Duds
Tue 30 September 2014, 04:56
Awesome work, Hevert! I have a bit of friendly competition for next number ;)
@Ken thank Arduino's and Raspberry Pi's for those relays. They are extremely cheap and plentiful on eBay and available in 4, 8 and 16 channel versions.
hevertg
Wed 01 October 2014, 21:38
:Dhi dale, and you started yours? pass me the link to see your progress and help along the way XD
hevertg
Fri 03 October 2014, 11:59
progress
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_91001511.jpg
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_91001524.jpg
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_91001545.jpg
hevertg
Sat 04 October 2014, 21:44
that would be my number MechMate? hahaha
hevertg
Sat 04 October 2014, 21:54
soldier?
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_91018751.jpg
or screw?
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_91018762.jpg
I can both ways but what would be the best?
Thank you
MetalHead
Sun 05 October 2014, 05:45
I would weld it. Screws could come loose.
servant74
Sun 05 October 2014, 11:30
images seem to be missing.
hevertg
Wed 08 October 2014, 13:38
Hi guys, I need help please. I'm trying my Spindler VFD but in 400Hz max rev is 11520 rpm.
it may be happening?
so what I have connected
splinder 2.2kw
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/10/08/141008093325686316.jpg (http://www.subirimagenes.net/i/141008093325686316.jpg)
I hope you can help me thanks
hevertg
Wed 08 October 2014, 14:18
thanks already fixed. I needed to configure the VFD
VFD Setup:
Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequengy - Hz)
Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution)
Fox
Thu 09 October 2014, 01:24
Good you fixed it yourself. There's a lot to learn.
You also want to hook it (your vfd) up to a pwm signal (0-10v) card which in turn is controlled from Mach3, that way you can control your spindle speed by means of Mach3 ( so on the screen of your computer).
Otherwise you need to change speeds from your VFD directly ( which can be annoying when it's built in a box) or with a remote turnknob suited for your VFD ( Gerald used this method his first machine).
Only full speed is no fun when cutting. Different materials/cutters need different feeds and speeds.
hevertg
Thu 09 October 2014, 19:00
hello looking for info fox if learned. now thanks for the recommendation, I wonder which card you recommend me to control the speed using Mach3?
KenC
Thu 09 October 2014, 21:49
Hevert, as there are just too many factors involved, such as material, tool size, tool materials, finishing requirements, hold-down methods, individual cutting habits,... etc there are really not much to recommend on speed.
You just has to experiment with them.
Duds
Fri 10 October 2014, 05:06
Hi Hevert, you need the PMDX 106 it will integrate with your PMDX122 card and provide you with PWM control of your spindle VFD. You will lose an axis though for this capability. But I assume your not going to use A or B axis so not really an issue unless you decide you want more axes. Alternatively you could just put a POT on your panel, no computer control but really simple. There's a bunch of other ways to interface with the VFD but these are the most simple. You can also click the VFD control panel out of its socket and make yourself a ribbon to remote mount the VFD panel fascia on the front of your box door. That's not a hard solution but often overlooked.
hevertg
Sat 01 November 2014, 23:18
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055844989047.jpg
My super machine, ugly but works fine.
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055836876372.jpg
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055839831170.jpg
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055850574896.jpg
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055856665851.jpg
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055900353889.jpg
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055903376684.jpg
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055906219835.jpg
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055911781650.jpg
Apparently the X rails are aligned
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055914445014.jpg
http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/11/02/141102055917823369.jpg
between yesterday and today was a lot of hard work, I'm slow because I work alone so I like, I'm glad I'm so nuy if the'll see running before Christmas, God willing.
I hope you like it and go away and my number MechMate lol thanks for this forum, if you would not do any of this
IMMark
Sun 02 November 2014, 08:25
Looks good Hevert...keep it up, you will have a number in no time!
Mark
parrulho
Sun 02 November 2014, 09:14
Hi Hevert, glad to see your progress, now you can't stop. Saludos.
hevertg
Sun 02 November 2014, 10:20
Hi Hevert, you need the PMDX 106 it will integrate with your PMDX122 card and provide you with PWM control of your spindle VFD. You will lose an axis though for this capability. But I assume your not going to use A or B axis so not really an issue unless you decide you want more axes. Alternatively you could just put a POT on your panel, no computer control but really simple. There's a bunch of other ways to interface with the VFD but these are the most simple. You can also click the VFD control panel out of its socket and make yourself a ribbon to remote mount the VFD panel fascia on the front of your box door. That's not a hard solution but often overlooked.
Duds, friend thanks for the advice, I'll keep pending while construction progressed thanks
hevertg
Sun 02 November 2014, 12:14
hello friends. Now I'm putting my MM me some errors are coming like (V Groove Guide Bearings) I buy them 3/8. I need the 12mm is that true? I need the 12mm x8? and 6 x 3/8? for Z axis
Thanks I hope you can help me greetings
Duds
Sun 02 November 2014, 18:22
Hi Hevert 12mm and 1/2" are almost identical. Remember decimal and imperial are abstract concepts you could take measurements in octal or binary or bananas if you wanted to. Get yourself some vernier calipers and measure everything you buy. Ignore the size stamped on the side of drills. Drills are whatever size your vernier says they are. Don't be afraid to ream out and re-tap nuts or threaded holes to suit you. Get yourself an engineers reference or 'black book' or print out some conversion tables and tapping clearance tables.
Duds
Sun 02 November 2014, 18:29
Also if you haven't drilled your spider yet be careful with the vague marks on the laser cut kit for the 6 z bearings. You will probably want to use the widest set of marks but use your calipers straddled between the bearings dry fit flat on your bench. Then add the 1/2" to account for your centres. Search for the thread on how to setup the spider.
Also I didn't bother to make the mounting bosses. Instead I welded in the nuts and use them for the bosses. Then I ground all the bits level with sand paper on a flat surface. This resulted in shorter bosses and I had to file back the stop tab on the spider but apart from that it all fit together well.
hevertg
Mon 03 November 2014, 18:40
Hi Dale. thanks for the advice, paulo asked my friend and he said it was better to follow the plan and buy the:
14 x GW3 v-rollers
6 x B3X eccentric buching for bearing
It is an expense that would not do, but it is necessary to see my MM running. someone has more than me about the band's economic hahaha
Duds
Tue 04 November 2014, 04:03
Hi Hevert, not really advice just a way to think about going about work in general. ;) It's how I think anyway.
Anyway, what i'm really writing about is: Check out http://www.instructables.com/id/From-SketchUp-to-CNC-Fabrication/ there are three videos that give great insight into the workflow from design in SketchUp right through to CNC machining and assembly. It's actually the first time I have ever gone [been lead] through the process, though I imagined it would be just like it is. The production robots I have worked with are very different. I really need to learn SketchUp I can see already that CAD is going to be my weak point.
Also in the third video take particular attention at 2:20 minutes. The operator pulls a front fascia panel of a Huangyang VFD, and starts and sets the spindle speed, from under the machine table. It reminded me of your question about convenient speed control at the machine. I still think the best and easiest way is to just run a potentiometer out somewhere convenient, just three wires and you can drill a hole for the potentiometer anywhere.
Video No 1 From SketchUp to CNC Fabrication (http://youtu.be/GdI4PS4-qho)
Video No 2 From SketchUp to CNC Fabrication (http://youtu.be/KMMmPNUvsT8)
Video No 3 From SketchUp to CNC Fabrication (http://youtu.be/eiehJr5G3vg)
hevertg
Fri 10 April 2015, 21:59
Hello friend, greetings to all. This time I am writing to ask for help with the bridge, and I soldered but I am very bad LOL, I need you to give me advice what to do? if I disarmed all or folding hard?
The video is my problem please view is very short and help me please.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTFT1P85DEs
parrulho
Fri 10 April 2015, 22:53
Hevert,
Two of the holes on Y-car are slotted to permit adjustment of the wheels. Put one wheel all way up and the other all way down and see if there is still a gap. You can elongate a little bit the slotted holes...
hevertg
Fri 10 April 2015, 22:57
ahhhhhhhh perfect paulo thanks, I'll do it tomorrow
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