Dale's MechMate - Canberra, Australia

[Duds]

Hi all,

I have just purchased my plans and placed an order for laser cut parts and am now building my BOM and preparing for my build.

About me: I'm an electrician with a lot of industrial electrical controls and instrumentation experience. Mostly using Allen Bradley PLC 5 and a little bit of SLC500 and Micrologix. Also a little bit of Siemens S7 and every kind of sensor you have ever heard of. I have played around with 6 axis robots in spot welding and assembly on a production line too. I also have done a bit of project management and operations management. Now I have my own commercial and industrial electrical and maintenance business.

I can definitely contribute with controls advice. But from my reading of the forum you guys seem to have sorted out most all of the details. By the way the drawings are excellent the helpful notes are amazing. "This sub assembly is best welded while upside down on a flat bench." I was not expecting that kind of detail. I am very impressed well done Gerald!

I have decided that my bed will be sized to work 2400 x 1220mm materials. I did consider sizing for 3050 x 1220mm but I think it will be rare that I use the longer stock and if I do ever get the longer stock for some strange reason I figure that I can quadrant my cuts and hang the material over the end. Please comment if you think this is not the case.

I want to do this project for a number of reasons:
1. Because I can. I enjoy making things.
2. I want to use the CNC router to build a lapstrake plywood double ended yawl, the Caledonia Yawl by Iain Oughtred. I have the plans gathering dust.
3. I want to build router style flat pack modernist furniture and experiment with no glue or fixings joints.
4. I see a potential for the router to contribute to my business and generate income prototyping and making custom fittings and architectural joinery. For example one off high spec light fittings for commercial foyers or custom design kiosks and exhibits for the museum or parts fabrication for university engineering projects.
5. I want to machine minor mechanical parts for example bosses, flanges, adaptors and manifolds for home made electrical vehicles and combustion engine mods. At the very least I would like to be able to make patterns for mechanical parts so I can use a plasma cutter to cut them out by hand and hand finish.

That list is in order of priority.

I intend to build my MechMate pretty much as shown, welded tube and channel table. The machine will be finished at a utilitarian level, standard rack and pinion, angle iron (steel) rails. I also do some volunteering with a youth program as a mentor and teach very basic electronics, we make robot cockroaches and other cool stuff. Maybe some of the kids will give me a hand with welding and wiring the panel. And they will all have ideas for things to make on the table. No doubt there will be plenty of ninja stars and skateboards.

My future roadmap development ideas:
Once I have my machine cutting I want to experiment with vision systems. I have an idea I want to play with to replace the home plate with cheap disposable stickers and use a CCTV and machine vision system software to auto home and auto orientate the work path to the material. I would also like to be able use the router like a digital pantograph using the vision system where I tape down a drawn line on paper and the vision system follows the line and routes the path. But that is definitely getting ahead of myself. Step one create my BOM from drawings and options at hand. I will post some pics of things I want to make in the inspiration forum and lots of photos of the Cal Yawl.

BTW GaryMo if your reading this. How's it going. Your MechMate has been a bit of an inspiration to me. I have been thinking about it since you showed me your machine a year ago.

Dale

[danilom]

If you manage to start the project about cctv vision for registration marks you got my attention :) and all the help you need from me.

[KenC]

Welcome!
With your caliber, you should have a running MM is a month or 2. :D
Just shout when you need input :D

[darren salyer]

Welcome to the forum.
Sounds like you will have a well thought out build.

[MetalHead]

Welcome aboard !!!

[jude]

Dale, Apart from the Canberra address this all seems good. I would suggest that if you are not short of workshop space that you consider extending the X beams by 500mm or so. This would allow you to clamp longer pieces vertically at the ends of the table (for cutting dovetails on the edge etc). Also a rotary axis can be mounted across the table here. If you don't go that path you can always add a trap door or removable piece in the spoil-board to accommodate these things.

[Duds]

Thanks for all the welcomes.

@Darren - It is well thought out, but not by me, I'm standing on the shoulders of giants. I'm just following the plans and lessons established by you and many others.

@Danilo - How about we start two threads. 'Vision system: registration' and 'Vision system: pantograph'. I'm most interested in the idea that a vision system pantograph can really lower barriers to entry. I can imagine the kids in the youth program grabbing a piece of A3 paper and black texta, scribbling out some shapes and then making them. I think as the kids got used to the technology they would develop shapes in MS Powerpoint or MS paint and start to develop increasingly sophisticated designs. That, in my mind, is democratic design. A kid who makes their own CNC routed click together chair, awesome!

@Jude, excellent idea. You must have noted my interest in joints. This proves that the best place to start is with your outcomes. I will implement your recommendation. Thank you.

[KenC]

@Danilo - How about we start two threads. 'Vision system: registration' and 'Vision system: pantograph'. ....

I second that!

[Duds]

@Jude or anyone else,

Has anyone else extended their tables in the negative from the origin? Did the brace their extended Main Longitudinal Beam?

I have been reviewing the drawings for the Table Assembly (10 10 000) and note that their is ~350mm of length of the Main Longitudinal Beam (10 10 320) from the origin (0,0,0) The stoppers are positioned 198mm from the end of the beams. If I just move the stoppers closer to the ends of the beams that will give me some negative travel from the origin so that I can do end cuts as you suggested. I think I read a post somewhere though I cant find it now where Gerald suggests there is no issues with X Rail Assembly (10 10 200) extending beyond the length of the longitudinal beam by ~50mm.

Extending the X length might not be ideal. It means I can't cut both Channels out of a single length and contributes to waste if I buy two lengths or slightly more cost if I get the Channel cut to length for me. Not that any of those are significant issues. If I do extend by 500mm then there is approximate 850mm overhang shouldn't this be braced if only for stiffness? Also, if I extend, maybe I should install a backboard and additional cross bearers vertically to mount fittings for clamping materials for end cuts.

In the end might it not be easier to fit a 90degree mount on the spindle so that end cuts can be done sideways?

You have thrown a spanner in my stock standard build Jude ;)

[Duds]

@rnixon, your laser cut parts arrived this afternoon, thanks mate!

[Duds]

I blame Jude. I started out with all intentions of building a utilitarian MechMate, that 'does the job'.

However, today I have ordered some you-beaut parts that will make my MechMate a high performance machine.

My controls stack includes:

1 x Transformer, Unregulated Power Supply 975W, 65VDC/15A , Input: 120VAC
or 230VAC, (KL-6515)
1 x ESS SmoothStepper
1 x PMDX-126 BOB
1 x PMDX-107 BOB daughter board spindle controller
4 x MotionKing 34H2A9840 Nema 34, 34H2A Stepper Motors -86mm(1.8 degree)
4 x MotionKing 2LD545 Fully Digital Stepping Driver

and

1 x Air Cooled 4kW Spindle including Huanyuang VFD.

Dale

PS I also blame whoever posted the YouTube video cutting steel flange plates with chilled air tool cooling. You showed me it could be done.

[danilom]

Why 65VDC PSU, 4.1mH steppers and then 50VDC drives ?

[Duds]

The main reason for my selection is based one the following from Marris on CNC Zone.

Nope, you're not invisible. I needed to put on my "see invisible people" glasses. I can see you just fine now.:-)

Motor #1 inductance is 4.1 mH. Motor #2 inductance is 2.4 mH. Both motors have the same holding torque which means both will have the same performance when driven with what they need. So, what do they need?:

Motor #1 has a maximum power supply voltage of V = 32*SQRT(4.1) or 65VDC
Motor #2 has a maximum power supply voltage of V = 32*SQRT(2.4) or 49VDC

Both motors will be identical in performance when driven with their respective maximum power supply voltages. Both voltages are within the specifications of the G203V drive. So how do you choose which one to use?

Model the G203V as a 0.25 Ohm resistor for thermal considerations. This will determine how big of a heatsink you will need.

Motor #1 is rated at 4A. I^2 * R is 4^2 * 0.25 or 4W of drive dissipation.
Motor #2 is rated at 5A. I^2 * R is 5^2 * 0.25 or 6.25W of drive dissipation.

Motor #2 will make the G203V drive dissipate 1.56 times more heat than Motor#1. At this point it seems Motor #2 is better; less drive heat, same performance.

But wait, there are other considerations. 49VDC is awfully close to 48VDC and there are very many inexpensive off-the-shelf 48VDC available. 48VDC is a standard voltage.

65VDC is not a standard voltage. You will pay extra and you will have a difficult time finding an economical 65VDC power supply. Meanwhile the 5A motor run from a 48VDC supply will generate 2.25W more (6.25W - 4W) heat in the G203V. This is a small difference. The G203V heatsink for the 5A will be only a little bit bigger than the one for the 4A motor.

If this was my problem? I would pick the 5A motor only because I could use a standard 48VDC power supply instead of a custom one. I would deal with the increased G203V heat by improving my heatsink. It would be cheaper solution than finding a 65VDC power supply.

Pick the 5A per phase motor.

Mariss

Except I rejected Marris reasoning against motor 1, that 65vDC supplies are not readily available. 65vDC supplies are readily available and will result in reduced temps in my box. Also the 4.1mH drives match perfectly the inductance of the motors and are a recommended match by MotionKing.

I also considered the comments posted at Why a stepper motor should not be too big... (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255) In particular this thread informed my decision making when it came to the 5Amp motor V the 4Amp motor.

Basically the way I read it the 4Amp motor running a higher voltage is the same Power as the 5Amp motor running lower voltage. But, the 4 Amp motor is able to deliver better high speed performance. Another factor is that I am planning a belt reduction drive. I haven't decide ratio yet. But it is my preference that machine is a spinner not a grinder, in cycling terms.

Please shoot holes in my reasoning!

[danilom]

Problem is you cant connect 65VDC to a drive with 50VDC maximum voltage
Drives should be 80VDC.
As yours were not expensive a lot you might sell them and get some like DM856 or AM882 from Leashine and they will support power supply up to 80VDC.

[Duds]

:o How embarrassment! Of course you are correct! well spotted thank you. Looks like I will be going with the Gecko 203V after all. You don't know how much I tossed up that decision and only went with the MotionKing drives at the last minute when they recommended them to me. I completely overlooked that.

THANKS! Danilom.

Anyone want to buy some lovely New In Box drivers?

PS, thanks for the lead on the Leashine drivers. I hadn't looked at those.

[danilom]

AM882 incredible smoothness at low rpm, 30% better rpm (torque) than 2M982 and stall detection and nice soft stop after detection (alarm output to ESTOP ofcourse). Get them on Aliexpress or from Deitech for lowest possible price (around 75usd).

[Fox]

Got the AM882, nice bit of kit !

[racedirector]

Ditto on the 882's, damn nice drives. The Europeans and Poms swear by the Leadshine stuff.

[jude]

There is no space to move the stoppers, the wheels of the Y frame are mm from the edge of the X beam. There are plenty of options in offsetting the Router spindle in the carrier and in flipping the carrier 180deg to get 50mm and more travel outside the table surface.

[Duds]

Saturday 30/8/14
Unloaded steel and started assembling base table.
https://s3-ap-sin-231-prod.digitalhub.com/CAEQARoQ2x9FhZ1V4i0o44tl1Ks6Cg/01b9c29c2e4ea0900f3ac8b2266a5edd32d9f7277c/IMG_0001.JPG?v=0&p=8&x=1&a=BCcgSnYG698KAwt6Jf8A&e=1409668486000&r=42460c92-686d-4536-a471-bd33877367c9-4&u=1409660987008&c=CowECugDCosDCih1cy1zdGQtMDAwMDEuczMtZXh0ZXJuYWwt MS5hbWF6b25hd3MuY29tEFAaA0dFVCLNAS84Z3Y5bExnQlNEWV d6RHdCUFdXSD94LWNsaWVudC1yZXF1ZXN0LWlkPTQyNDYwYzky LTY4NmQtNDUzNi1hNDcxLWJkMzM4NzczNjdjOSZFeHBpcmVzPT E0MDk2NjA5ODcmYnl0ZS1yYW5nZT0yNjQ1NjA2LTM3Njg5MTAm QVdTQWNjZXNzS2V5SWQ9QUtJQUlXV1IzM0VDSEtQQzJMVUEmU2 lnbmF0dXJlPU5WTERRYUZKV2VsQXQ2NjIyS3VuSSUyRjElMkZ4 T2clM0QqBEhUVFAyAzEuMToEaHR0cEIrCgp4LWFtei1kYXRlEh 1UdWUsIDAyIFNlcCAyMDE0IDExOjM0OjQ3IEdNVEIeCgVSYW5n ZRIVYnl0ZXM9MjY0NTYwNi0zNzY4OTEwQg0KBkFjY2VwdBIDKi 8qSglzM191c19zdGRSCXMzX2FwX3NpbliAzd6ygykSMAoVgekP pLnR0tgLHktG08HZIIfYvhhvEhEBB30VUS9uJZosEXYXb7m0JB jpx0QgABoUOGd2OWxMZ0JTRFlXekR3QlBXV0giEEE3STA5WXZR VWdmNnoza2wSHwoVAbnCnC5OoJAPOsiyJmpe3TLZ9yd8EgQIAB AAKAAgAg&s=R6lvrSEsjcO2NGo2o1yh5ziUJ0Q
1. Placed the support board (10 10 123) on saw horses
Laid out hole centres grid using a string line. Centre punched hole centres and drilled pilot holes. Then using a 25mm spade bit I cut the bolt head recess. Then drilled the bolt clearance holes

2. Laid out the cross bearers (10 10 302) on the floor. Measured all the centres and scribed with a square. Measured off the hole centres using the pitch I established for the support board. Centre punched all the hole centres. Drilled all pilot holes. Drilled all clearance holes.
https://s3-ap-sin-231-prod.digitalhub.com/CAEQARoQ2x9FhZ1V4i0o44tl1Ks6Cg/01929e5245b1ae5bff06e1952b569e7b96913db4cc/IMG_0003.JPG?v=0&p=8&x=1&a=BLMpTRWVmmY%2FAwF6Jf8A&e=1409667840000&r=3455bb2e-14de-4d69-aa97-44bc8116808b-14&u=1409660340757&c=CogECuQDCocDCih1cy1zdGQtMDAwMDEuczMtZXh0ZXJuYWwt MS5hbWF6b25hd3MuY29tEFAaA0dFVCLJAS9NeU1FbW0wQlNEWV pGSElCUFdNdT94LWNsaWVudC1yZXF1ZXN0LWlkPTM0NTViYjJl LTE0ZGUtNGQ2OS1hYTk3LTQ0YmM4MTE2ODA4YiZFeHBpcmVzPT E0MDk2NjAzNDAmYnl0ZS1yYW5nZT0zODUxNjUyLTQ3MDk5Mzgm QVdTQWNjZXNzS2V5SWQ9QUtJQUlXV1IzM0VDSEtQQzJMVUEmU2 lnbmF0dXJlPTFUSFhyeUJZRzZyenRHSmN6OWJqd25nZXlCZyUz RCoESFRUUDIDMS4xOgRodHRwQisKCngtYW16LWRhdGUSHVR1ZS wgMDIgU2VwIDIwMTQgMTE6MjQ6MDAgR01UQh4KBVJhbmdlEhVi eXRlcz0zODUxNjUyLTQ3MDk5MzhCDQoGQWNjZXB0EgMqLypKCX MzX3VzX3N0ZFIJczNfYXBfc2luWJWUt7KDKRIwChWB-3Cgn_frqaYP8mKlagekY9RtEOcSEQFIi1whQdptdnU21ExGYv2 TGK-xNCAAGhRNeU1FbW0wQlNEWVpGSElCUFdNdSIQQXlyQzE5bi94M GV5eFhrbBIfChUBkp5SRbGuW_8G4ZUrVp57lpE9tMwSBAgAEAA oACAC&s=IYwnIQE6-yxbfn6t9w6PtVgNwiA

3. Lifted cross bearers (10 10 302) in place under support board (10 10 123) one at a time and loosely clamped in place. used a screw driver to podgy the centre hole of the bearer and support board. Put bolt in centre hole and nipped up loose. Removed clamps. Podgied holes and nipped up bolts from inside to out. Repeated for all bearers. I was really fortunate and only two holes needed to be bored out a few mm to get my bolts in. Nipped up all bolts tight.

4. Lifted main longitudinal beam (10 10 320) in place onto cross bearers. Persuaded beams into accurate position. Measured bearer position off support board in corners, persuaded, measured, persuaded. Tacked beams to cross bearers. Tacked from top, tacked from underneath.
https://s3-ap-sin-231-prod.digitalhub.com/CAEQARoQ2x9FhZ1V4i0o44tl1Ks6Cg/014ff80d5e4759772679f54e27cc94810e8d6eb1f6/IMG_0004.JPG?v=0&p=8&x=1&a=BLcFl6jq2x55AwF6Jf8A&e=1409667840000&r=3455bb2e-14de-4d69-aa97-44bc8116808b-18&u=1409660340753&c=CogECuQDCocDCih1cy1zdGQtMDAwMDEuczMtZXh0ZXJuYWwt MS5hbWF6b25hd3MuY29tEFAaA0dFVCLJAS9NeU1FbW0wQlNEWV pGSElCUFdNdT94LWNsaWVudC1yZXF1ZXN0LWlkPTM0NTViYjJl LTE0ZGUtNGQ2OS1hYTk3LTQ0YmM4MTE2ODA4YiZFeHBpcmVzPT E0MDk2NjAzNDAmYnl0ZS1yYW5nZT0xOTEyNzc2LTI4NTcxNjIm QVdTQWNjZXNzS2V5SWQ9QUtJQUlXV1IzM0VDSEtQQzJMVUEmU2 lnbmF0dXJlPTFUSFhyeUJZRzZyenRHSmN6OWJqd25nZXlCZyUz RCoESFRUUDIDMS4xOgRodHRwQisKCngtYW16LWRhdGUSHVR1ZS wgMDIgU2VwIDIwMTQgMTE6MjQ6MDAgR01UQh4KBVJhbmdlEhVi eXRlcz0xOTEyNzc2LTI4NTcxNjJCDQoGQWNjZXB0EgMqLypKCX MzX3VzX3N0ZFIJczNfYXBfc2luWJGUt7KDKRIwChWB06CfkEgJ dxzpLarv0KL9BoMujOESEQGRcfWmrLL7XZmqPxTctZHTGIPSOS AAGhRNeU1FbW0wQlNEWVpGSElCUFdNdSIQQXlyQzE5bi94MGV5 eFhrbBIfChUBT_gNXkdZdyZ59U4nzJSBDo1usfYSBAgAEAAoAC AC&s=zRKHQChAhCZ-INlFZTHqAH6DjVQ

Sunday, 31/8/14
5. Cut angled bevels on bearers and beams. Note: I ordered all steel pre-cut to my required dimensions for a 1220 x 2440 support board. But I had the bearers cut 20mm wider. I cut the bevels after it was all bolted up and square. I made a mistake on my bevels and cut them all at 45° not 60°. I'm not really worried about this error. I don't think it will affect the strength and if someone tells me it does I can always weld in gussets on the bearer ends.
https://s3-ap-sin-231-prod.digitalhub.com/CAEQARoQ2x9FhZ1V4i0o44tl1Ks6Cg/01936876b4337379c9b2cfff404f68e4095696d1bc/DSC_0001.jpg?v=0&p=8&x=1&a=BMBr3df%2BxiyZAwt6Jf8A&e=1409668486000&r=42460c92-686d-4536-a471-bd33877367c9-22&u=1409660987011&s=OyC1Z0J_j1A1xoAzzY5K3YryF84

6. Seam welded all my bearers to the beams. I have nicknamed my cheapo $80 stick welder Wally (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Dilbert_characters#Wally). It doesn't work very hard and regularly trips it TOL. I spent breaks doing other odd jobs. Got dragged away to spend time with my family. Everyone complained I smelled like welding fumes.
https://s3-ap-sin-231-prod.digitalhub.com/CAEQARoQ2x9FhZ1V4i0o44tl1Ks6Cg/0185ba8506d8731f6e8e76d003ab0a9ff0ebd59997/IMG_0009.JPG?v=0&p=8&x=1&a=BHn5BFIfmp9pAwp6Jf8A&e=1409668404000&r=554e2f83-110d-4af1-88d4-f506055ec9cb-29&u=1409660904081&c=CogECuQDCocDCih1cy1zdGQtMDAwMDEuczMtZXh0ZXJuYWwt MS5hbWF6b25hd3MuY29tEFAaA0dFVCLJAS9TbzQ3WC1JQlNEWW JIWE1CUFdSYj94LWNsaWVudC1yZXF1ZXN0LWlkPTU1NGUyZjgz LTExMGQtNGFmMS04OGQ0LWY1MDYwNTVlYzljYiZFeHBpcmVzPT E0MDk2NjA5MDQmYnl0ZS1yYW5nZT0yMDY1MTA5LTIxMTEyNjEm QVdTQWNjZXNzS2V5SWQ9QUtJQUlXV1IzM0VDSEtQQzJMVUEmU2 lnbmF0dXJlPVA5YjNBU2s1Tll1bTF5SEVUTk1Qa3MwUXNNOCUz RCoESFRUUDIDMS4xOgRodHRwQisKCngtYW16LWRhdGUSHVR1ZS wgMDIgU2VwIDIwMTQgMTE6MzM6MjQgR01UQh4KBVJhbmdlEhVi eXRlcz0yMDY1MTA5LTIxMTEyNjFCDQoGQWNjZXB0EgMqLypKCX MzX3VzX3N0ZFIJczNfYXBfc2luWJHF2bKDKRIwChWBrzQJEDxs cdcTzMC1DF1roxQurz0SEQGqgnkP6bfMOf0udbNgMwxfGMnoAi AAGhRTbzQ3WC1JQlNEWWJIWE1CUFdSYiIQQTlPTkh0K25VNVhk em5rbBIfChUBhbqFBthzH26OdtADqwqf8OvVmZcSBAgAEAAoAC AC&s=MHg2mwpJA8RwWaZNBwSisAWXhpI

Monday, 1/9/14
7. Bashed my lower cross brace (10 10 312) ends with a big persuader on the concrete floor to crimp the ends. Placed legs(10 10 330) flat on ground with cross braces between them. Welded left cross brace leg combination and right cross brace leg combination separately. Welded the footplates on.

8. Placed legs part and right legs part under table and welded in the y cross (10 10 306) braces in place.

9. Lifted table part up with a chain block. Removed saw horses and dropped table part onto the legs part. Lots of persuading with my very biggest persuader to get everything square. Seam welded legs to table.
https://s3-ap-sin-231-prod.digitalhub.com/CAEQARoQ2x9FhZ1V4i0o44tl1Ks6Cg/018c70d36ac021503c67dd41993068af040006df00/IMG_0010.JPG?v=0&p=8&x=1&a=BMfsxyHaJO%2BXAwF6Jf8A&e=1409667840000&r=3455bb2e-14de-4d69-aa97-44bc8116808b-1&u=1409660340758&c=CooECuYDCokDCih1cy1zdGQtMDAwMDEuczMtZXh0ZXJuYWwt MS5hbWF6b25hd3MuY29tEFAaA0dFVCLLAS84Z3Y5bExnQlNEWV d6RHdCUFdXSD94LWNsaWVudC1yZXF1ZXN0LWlkPTM0NTViYjJl LTE0ZGUtNGQ2OS1hYTk3LTQ0YmM4MTE2ODA4YiZFeHBpcmVzPT E0MDk2NjAzNDAmYnl0ZS1yYW5nZT0xNzIyOTA0LTI2NDU2MDUm QVdTQWNjZXNzS2V5SWQ9QUtJQUlXV1IzM0VDSEtQQzJMVUEmU2 lnbmF0dXJlPWFYaEJubExiS09FdVo1WnUyYzRRMFclMkZwYWdj JTNEKgRIVFRQMgMxLjE6BGh0dHBCKwoKeC1hbXotZGF0ZRIdVH VlLCAwMiBTZXAgMjAxNCAxMToyNDowMCBHTVRCHgoFUmFuZ2US FWJ5dGVzPTE3MjI5MDQtMjY0NTYwNUINCgZBY2NlcHQSAyovKk oJczNfdXNfc3RkUglzM19hcF9zaW5YlpS3soMpEjAKFYEh72rc QhpDLpLq-WqWw98ULBV9lBIRAcF8JMnv4O3f1P8vYFcNKDMYzqg4IAAaFDh ndjlsTGdCU0RZV3pEd0JQV1dIIhBBd0RxZUFKakRmS294WGtsE h8KFQGMcNNqwCFQPGfdQZkwaK8EAAbfABIECAAQACgAIAI&s=jZzx3gc-b4cQNqawF1PztOK2AP4

That's all for now. Next step weld in the braces (10 10 314) and (10 10 316)

[Fox]

Pics are missing !?

[MetalHead]

I don't think we have access to see the pics. Check to make sure you have them shared public.

[lonestaral]

I can see the pictures, but they are bigger than the screen.

[racedirector]

You must be special Al :) No go on the pics from here either....

[wiifm]

I saw them last night before the threads were merged, but not now :(

[Duds]

Sorry about the photos folks.

https://flic.kr/p/p488vX
TA helping me unload steel off the ute. Should that be Bakkie ;)

https://flic.kr/p/p4mrDf
Getting ready to mark out Baseboard using chalkstring. Note once the baseboard went down on the sawhorses all the bearers got bolted up from underneath.

https://flic.kr/p/p4msaq
Bearers bolted up underneath Baseboard and Main beams installed on top of Bearers.

https://flic.kr/p/p2msxW
Cutting off the Bevels on the bearers TA was cleaning up scrap metal.

https://flic.kr/p/p2mtuW
Teaching grinder safety

https://flic.kr/p/p4ooka
TA wanted to grind, so I put a flapper disk on and helped him clean up the edges.

https://flic.kr/p/p2muHh
I could have been welding with Wally but I had to taste Pino Noir instead.

https://flic.kr/p/p4osK2
Table is on legs. Still need to add braces, or should that be belts and braces.

Thursday, 4 September 2014
Belts and Braces
10. I have put the braces on and been working on it of an evening, sorry no photos yet with braces.

Errata
Two parcels arrived today, within 30 minutes of each other. The first is my MotionKing motors and drives and the second is the air-cooled spindle and VFD.

https://flic.kr/p/p48ctM
MotionKing 34H2A9840 Nema 34, 34H2A Stepper Motors -86mm(1.8 degree)

https://flic.kr/p/p48dix
MotionKing 2LD880H Fully Digital Stepping Driver
Note: it turns out I had no reason to be embarrassed at getting the wrong part. I got the right part ordered in the first place. I just copied and pasted the wrong part no. Does show that drive and driver selection is a complex aspect of this build with the huge range of options that can be made.

Placed orders for rack and pinions and bearings and wheels today. Buying rack and pinion from TEA transmissions (http://www.tea.net.au/) in QLD and bearings, wheels from Superior Bearing Co (http://www.superiorbearing.com/)

I had intended to grind my own track but am now talking to TEA about AISI 1045 carbon steel or 420 stainless steel track that is ground and machined. What are pros, cons? I can afford the track but and need more time to spend with family. So the track seems like a good option.

Dale.

PS seems like I just can't figure out photos. So heres the link to my Flickr PhotoStream https://www.flickr.com/photos/127474372@N07/

[Fox]

still; no visible pics, dale ...

[Duds]

Third try!:confused:

TA helping me unload steel off the ute. Should that be Bakkie
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0001_2.jpg

Getting ready to mark out Baseboard using chalkstring. Note once the baseboard went down on the sawhorses all the bearers got bolted up from underneath.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0003_2.jpg

Bearers bolted up underneath Baseboard and Main beams installed on top of Bearers.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0013_2.jpg

Cutting off the Bevels on the bearers TA was cleaning up scrap metal.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/DSC_0001.jpg

Teaching grinder safety
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/DSC_0011.jpg


TA wanted to grind, so I put a flapper disk on and helped him clean up the edges.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/DSC_0014.jpg


I could have been welding with Wally but I had to taste Pino Noir instead.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0009_2.jpg

Table is on legs. Still need to add braces, or should that be belts and braces.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/DSC_0011_2.jpg


Thursday, 4 September 2014
Belts and Braces
10. I have put the braces on and been working on it of an evening, sorry no photos yet with braces.

[B]Errata[B]
Two parcels arrived today, within 30 minutes of each other. The first is my MotionKing motors and drives and the second is the air-cooled spindle and VFD.

MotionKing 34H2A9840 Nema 34, 34H2A Stepper Motors -86mm(1.8 degree)
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0235.jpg
MotionKing 2LD880H Fully Digital Stepping Driver
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0240.jpg
Note: it turns out I had no reason to be embarrassed at getting the wrong part. I got the right part ordered in the first place. I just copied and pasted the wrong part no. Does show that drive and driver selection is a complex aspect of this build with the huge range of options that can be made.

Air-cooled Spindle
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0244.jpg

Huangyuang VFD
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0243.jpg

Placed orders for rack and pinions and bearings and wheels today. Buying rack and pinion from TEA transmissions in QLD and bearings, wheels from Superior Bearing Co

I had intended to grind my own track but am now talking to TEA about AISI 1045 carbon steel or 420 stainless steel track that is ground and machined. What are pros, cons? I can afford the track and need more time to spend with family. So the track seems like a good option.

Dale.

PS seems like I just can't figure out photos. So heres the link to my Flickr PhotoStream https://www.flickr.com/photos/127474372@N07/

PPS i'm now hosting my own photos not using a service. I probably should have used my own hosting in the first place but thought a service would be easier.

[wiifm]

Looks like you've made a cracking start! Your TA must be doing a good job of keeping the work in front of you :D

[Fox]

Hurrah, pics ! Good progress. I made my rails (10 meters) in 2 days, from bare metal, depending on how you that is quick or a lot of work.... If you buy rails I would but linears with wagons instead of v rails . If you shop a bit they go for similar money on eBay or g'list.

[Duds]

Good progress on the weekend. Quick Question: 8mm angle for rails any clearance issues known?

[Fox]

8 mm steel or alu ? 8 mm will still work with the grinder setup excenters, I think and the V wheels don't care.

Alu you have to watch your overall dimensions and add/subtract the difference.

[Duds]

Thanks Fox, Steel.

[Duds]

6 September 2014
Drilled gantry and Y Rail Clamp Strip (10 20 235)
Setup for welding Y Rail
Welded main longitudinal beam end closing plates.
Had a big clean up and vacuumed the garage, grinding and welding dross accumulating.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0255-1024x768.jpg

7 September 2014
Welded Y Gantry together and didn't realise until I got it finished that I had forgotten to make sure the tube seams were facing down. I had to re-drill the rail bolt holes through the seam of the y rail rect tube which wasn't fun and indicates more fun when I need to install the clamp strip. Had a good Fathers Day with my TA. He kept me supplied with welding rods. I also bought some new rods for the gantry welding and they are so much better to use than the box of old crappy rods I have been using on the table.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0263-768x1024.jpg

The table is pretty much done now, just need to remove the baseboard and paint it.
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0260-768x1024.jpg
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0257-1024x768.jpg
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0258-1024x768.jpg
http://dalerogers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0252-768x1024.jpg

8 September 2014
Had some problems with the Power Supply I ordered not being shipped and decided to cancel the order. Need to rethink the power supply, It's not as easy to get the 65VDC as I thought it was going to be.

9 September 2014
Asked Peter Homann for a solution to Power Supply problem and he has suggested using three switchmode 24VDC power supplies and a power supply multiplier. See:

http://www.homanndesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=240

and

http://www.homanndesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=211

Also bought a surplus stock (4 year old) brand new touch screen Dell Inspiron One 2320 Touch today and have installed Mach3 on it, it runs Windows 7. I'm going to mount it on the machine as a HMI, hopefully it works without any dramas.

Dale

[wiifm]

Does the Dell have the parallel port output or are you going with a smoothstepper? Homann Designs are the Warp9 Tech Designs agents in Australia, so you might want to have a chat with him about that as well :)

[Duds]

I have an ESS that I bought off Homann.

[KenC]

You really don't need voltage regulation for stepper motor... In fact, unregulated power supply is desirable. Motor (all motors to be precise) don't like to ride with a foot on the brake...
As for the BOB, most of them has a voltage regulator built-in... so using a SMPS wit regulation is doing the voltage regulation twice & no advantage for doing it.
BUT most SMPS off the shelf are voltage regulate, hence no cost benefit to get a unregulated SMPS.

[Duds]

Thats a good comment Ken. I hadn't thought of the 'foot on break' analogy. In any case the price is good when you don't have high shipping costs to move Kg's of wound copper around the world.

The deciding factor is really that I don't have a lot of time to go through all the options and weigh the pros and cons. I just review the best practice from this site and others and then follow the recommendations of my suppliers. Invariably, something will go wrong along the way, but i'll cross those bridges when I get there.

[Duds]

BTW, off topic, but for those interested in the human behind the build YWCA recently featured me in the YWCA Computer Clubhouse newsletter. I'm really chuffed.

15043

[smreish]

3 pages of Q & A. Wonderful.

Congratulations on the write up and kudo's to you for volunteering and sharing your knowledge with the kids.

[Duds]

BUMP.

Z Axis Origins and Tool Steel Grinding (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223&highlight=tapping+tool)

Just a bump for myself so I can find my way back. Useful info on the thinking and development of the Z axis manufacturing.

[Duds]

This is cool

Tapping with a spindle (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SunaNxeVLrs)

Does anyone know if it's some sort of clutch, gearbox, surely the spindle isn't actually being driven at the low speeds required to tap holes?

[lonestaral]

I watched the video without sound, but the R.P.M. looked slow and it looked like the material was Aluminium.
In my metal machining former life there were 3 types of Tapping holders.

1. Rigid tapping. The R.P.M. and Z axis feed in perfect harmony.

2. Floating holder. The Z was fed into the work at 95% of pitch. A spring in the tapping head compensated for any errors.

3. Holder with an adjustable clutch. Again compensating for any axis drive errors or material chemistry differences..

Yes, it can be done, just like changing tools and setting height or work offsets.

The ongoing process of Design and Development.
How deep are your pockets ? :eek:

[danilom]

This is a floating holder, spindle and feedrate don't have to match exactly as the holder compensates for that and the tap is pulled out.

For rigit tapping it should be a servo spindle which that on the video is not. Just an ordinary VFD controlled spindle.

Tap holders can be acquired and mounted in collet, or like their in video be a part of some type of holder.
More here
http://www.maritool.com/Tool-Holders-Floating-Tap-Holders/c23_27/index.html

[Duds]

I have been pretty busy with paying customers recently so progress slowed.

However, I have made some progress.

I had some problems with rails mainly because I'm not using standard materials. Cutting tests on 8mm angle failed miserably. The discs kept bogging when they got all the way through from friction between the waste material and rail. I had to clamp the waste to keep the cut gap open. It wasn't good the end result was that I spent a day cutting one x rail and wound up with very poor parallelism along the length of the rail. This was without even starting to grind the V.

My wife reminded me what my time is worth to my clients and I bought some pre ground rail.

Now I am mounting the rail to some 3mm angle that I have in stock, but, on the outside to avoid the internal radius on the angle from rolling mill process.

I'm going to double sided tape the rack under the combined thickness of the v rail and angle. Probably a picture is needed to explain, I will add when I get a chance.

I have been working on my controls and have mounted all my controls hardware in the panel and started my loom, it's nice working in my discipline. The loom and panel go quickly.

[Duds]

This last weekend I made great progress on the rails which had been really bogging me down.

Rail grinding just wasn't my thing, I consumed cutting discs way to fast and had problems with the cut diving and that was before I even started on the 45's I used up a lot of time and wasn't happy with the result.

As mentioned above I canned the ground rails and bought v-cap rail from TEA Transmissions (https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tea.net.au%2F&ei=8MEzVM2TD8T1oASt04DQCw&usg=AFQjCNEItlsBpeqUncxyH8cbZt-SKItF5w&bvm=bv.76943099,d.cGU&cad=rja) The rail arrived really fast, next day.

I decided to use some 3mm angle to mount the v-cap rail on but, again, had lots of difficulty doing a nice job of ripping the angle down and getting a nice neat parallel rail height. I felt much more confident using the bottom of the angle as a rail reference, using the v-shoulder for a reference just wasn't going to work with my poor milling.

15083

The gap between the bottom of the rail and main beam is caused by the cutting heat bowing the steel up. When I mounted the v-rail I clamped the mounting angle to the main beam every 300mm and then sat the rail on the main beam and drilled the rails.

15084

Here's a photo of the repair I made when the cut I was making dove and gouged out too deep. I just welded the gouge and ground it back roughly.

15085

I mounted the rail to the support angle using M4 x 8mm machine screws. I have a box of them from some other project. And I'm really happy with the finished job, 50 machine screws drilled and tapped at 75mm centres on each side. 100 machine screws!

Lessons Learned
The biggest lesson actually has nothing to do with rail grinding. I have read all the arguments on here about rail grinding, watched the youtube videos and think that there's really not a lot new to offer on the subject of rail grinding. I can offer a new alternative idea to v-cap rail mounting.

The real lesson learned is taps. I started tapping with an old M4 taper tap I found in the bottom of a draw, a cheap chinese tap I probably bought at trash and treasure markets, who knows. I use a battery drill to tap holes and try and get the clutch as high as possible and still engage before I shear taps. It's a skill I learned as an apprentice on big construction job where I tapped thousands of holes. Anyway at hole 42, I know because I was 3 holes from the end of that rail, I sheared my old faithful M4 taper tap.

OK, no problem jumped in the truck and headed off to Specialty Fasteners for a new tap. I bought two more M4 taper tap expensive fancy Bordo brand name taps. Sheared, Bordo tap no1 on hole 43 and Bordo tap no2 on hole 50. Two taps and only one hole successfully tapped. Raced off to Jaycar and bought 2 more M4 taps, cheap chinese $4 each, and successfully tapped the remaining 52 holes.

I'm sure the Bordo taps are super high quality, they are really hard and have no flex at all the battery drill just shears them even at the lowest clutch setting. The chinese taps flex and twist a huge amount. I can see the flutes twist the width of the flute when the clutch engages.

Finally, a quick YouTube video of my gantry sliding back and forward on the rails. No tuning has been done to shim the double v wheels to the correct centre width, or to shim rail heights, but I'm really happy with the ease of rolling and the sound of the movement.

Gantry and rails first test of movement on rails (http://youtu.be/5JS8hiKktb0)

[bradm]

Dale, that's a very interesting point. Now that you mention it, I've also had much better luck with cheap taps. Largely, it's when working freehand in soft materials (mild steel and aluminum). Perhaps the advantages of the harder taps show up under more controlled conditions and harder materials.

[Fox]

Sorry to hear of all your difficulties with the grinding. Seeing your skills with the table etc, and reading you've seen all the tricks it really makes me wonder why it became so difficult to grind even the flat part.

I mean, it's still not really a fun job, but with my makita cheap grinder ( 500 watt) held buy the grinder ficture and a good 1mm cutting disc, and the right pressure ( not pressing, just sliding, many strokes before you cust trough ) it went perfectly fine.

[Duds]

You're right Fox. I think I was just too aggressive with the cutting. I found the grinding experience really frustrating and the more frustrated I became with the process the more aggressive I got with it. I'm just really glad I'm past it with my own solution.

[danilom]

Regarding the taps, taps are brittle, common HSS is less brittle than carbide or somehow enhanced HSS taps. So a cheaper tap works better but wears quicker.
M4 are really small and delicate taps so they don't work well with battery drill but you really got skill :) I used M8 tap for hundreds of holes with cordless drill and it was a pleasure.

[racedirector]

Good to see another Aussie machine coming together. Hated doing my rails as well, have a heap of spare/old angle as a result. Vee rail is on my upgrade list.

[isladelobos]

Clean sound !!. Nice hardened rails, the best option.

[hevertg]

Hello, you're doing great friend

[Duds]

Has anyone got prices on gas struts I just got quoted $575au and nearly fell over.

[KenC]

AU$575 is a complete rip-off.
You should check-up RS-component site I do remember they have an .AU site.

[racedirector]

Dale, no fricken way anyone would pay that much. Go here: http://www.lifteasy.com/ these guys are brilliant and have had my 2 purchases to me within 2 days of ordering over the phone. Total for each plus postage was around $39.00

Just tell them what you want in terms of length, charge and ends and they will make one up for you. I went with one of the 8/18 struts with the ends at 6mm

[Tom Ayres]

I've got a deal for you! Only AU$499! Act Now, Today Only...:D Ha Ha

[Duds]

Ok got a gas spring coming Lift easy. $39. Thanks for the tip!

[alan254]

Have a new gas shocks for sale it is a Macmaster –Carr
#9416K181 20 lb will sell for $10.

Thanks Al

[Duds]

Works on MM going really well I'm enjoying the build more and more.

X table is mostly complete except for welding on cable management. I have chosen to paint as I go so that I don't need to disassemble to paint later and this is working out to be a good strategy. I have needed to hit som spots with a flapper disk to weld on a cable bracket here or there but these spots are easily touched up and don't show.

My outside mounted v-rail worked really well. I was worried that the rack would not mount well to the rail/rail mount surface but the 3M tape does an excellent job of catering to minor surface irregularities. It sticks. My rail method did lead to changes in the design.

First the v-rails are all 22mm because that's the height of standard size 3 rail. This is down from the standard ground angle design height of 28mm. And causes clearance problems with the gantry stopper blocks. I shortened my stopper blocks on the gantry to 15mm to allow for Y car clearance above the stopper blocks.

Second the idler roller does not meet the bottom of the rails due to the lower car ride height. The stub axle hits the y car frame. I used a round file to cut a half moon shape into the y car frame. But you could also increase the outside diameter of the idler bearing. I think this might be a better solution but I did not look at buying another bearing because I was impatient to get it working. Interestingly, my pinion and motor shaft clear fine and no mods on the drive side were required.

My gantry had some twist or something. There's no twist on the top where the y car runs but there's <1mm on on corner of the gantry where wheel does not meet rail and you can rock the gantry diagonally from corner to corner. I solved this problem with a round file and slightly elongated on of the wheel axle holes to bring the wheel down to the rail. Now all runs smoothly.

My Z axis went well. I think practice makes perfect and by the time I got to the X I had already gotten into a good groove with the x table and gantry. No mods to Z.

I have mounted all my proxies and started to mount stop/start stations. I'm also working on the motor mounts and setting up the spring loading etc. My gas spring for Z arrived today from easy lift. Super fast as I only ordered yesterday.

I thought I might comment a little on the controls interface relay discussion here. My field controls will all be 24v and I have interface relays in my box. In my experience, in very dirty environments, it has always been good practice to use higher voltages for controls whilst trying to stay away from dangerous voltages. In mining we always used 110v. The reason is that higher voltages are better at 'wiping' clean contact surfaces in contractors and contact blocks for push buttons. OEM equipment with lower voltage controls often suffered from welding contacts due to dirty contact surfaces and were modified to 110v. 12v was particularly bad.i don't really expect the machine and environment but have used this experience to guide my choices.

Lesson Learned
Avoid tuning alignment and fine detail adjustment when tired after having worked on the machine all day. It has been said before by many. I wasted two hours chasing a problem in my x axis rails. And eventually went to bed, the next morning I discovered the problem in my gantry wheel heights almost immediately and had it fixed just as fast.

I'll post some photos next post.

Btw obviously my MM is MM blue and my rails and brackets are machine grey.

[Duds]

15139
Painting the MechMate

15140
Assembling the sub-components

15141
I just realised in this dry fit that the idler wheel is going to foul the y car frame at the stub axle.

An interesting point here. I don't have a lathe and am too impatient to send little bits like stub axles out to be machined. I just used a short piece of twenty mm diameter rod and filed the ends neat. The bearing fitting was a slip fit not a press fit so I rolled the short piece of rod on a table under my bastard file pressing down really hard but avoiding actually cutting/filing the material. This causes the surface of the rod to become knurled and voila, press fit. Don't ask me why knurling makes it work, it just does.

15142
I tried to get a photo of the proxy brackets but the afternoon sun was causing problems. This is the best of a bad bunch.

15143
Z-axis mounted, and proxy looms starting. I have used NHP Sprecher and Schuh proxies and switch gear mostly. No reason behind this, I just gave my wholesaler a shopping list and he got me the S+S gear. Probably they are doing the best discounts at the moment and they do make great control gear. It's really robust and well designed.You might just be able to see, that I am using a yellow illuminated pushbutton for the stop/start stations. I'm going to run the flashing pause signal out to the lamp. So when running yellow p/b is off and when paused yellow p/b flashes. just a visual indicator if I go away for a cup of tea and can't remember if i'm in the middle of a job.

Also the stub V wheel bosses on the Z axis. Again, I didn't want to send out the little bosses to a machinist. I welded the nuts on the inside face instead of the bosses and am using the nuts as bosses. The nut height is slightly less than the boss height and caused a clearance problem with the little folded tab that hits the Z stopper. So I filed the tab down 1mm and it clears the Z slide.

That's all folks, have fun with your machines.

Dale

[Duds]

Mechanically the machine is complete.

I am now wiring up the machine, and have pre wired my control boards. You may remember, from a previous post, that I bought three switch mode PSU's and a voltage adder board to get my DC requirement for my drives. I have since taken the switch mode PSU's out and made my own simple PSU from a Torroid and some capacitors. I should have done so in the first place but was a bit blinded by everything that was going on at the time with the build and work.

Here's some photos

15174
I bought this fancy wall mount monitor arm and bolted it to the front of the beams. This photo shows Mach3 running, but I haven't got it working with my BOB or ESS yet. I have been playing around learning how to make 'Brains' so that I can get my stop button light on the control stations to flash at different rates for different events. EG. 4 quick strobes and a pause for tool change required, slow 50% on 50 % off for running machine no spindle, Slow 75 on 25 off for running with spindle, Fast flash for manual pause.

15175
Another photo of the arm. I'm really happy with the arm and the all-in-one touch screen pc. I have found I never use the keyboard, only the onscreen keyboard and the Mach3 UI responds really well to touch. I am able to adjust sliders and speed and set buttons.

15176

15177

15178
A photo of my pushbutton station. I have used 3 pair shielded instrumentation cable for my pb stations and run them back to a box near the start of the X axis energy chain. I also run the proximity switches all back to the box. I have used connector cables for my proximity switches with the screw on connectors for replacing proxies that get wiped out by accident.

The motors all use VFD cable and the same VFD cable for the spindle. 4 core and shield.

At the box near the X energy chain I have commoned up all the actives and neutrals and parallel stop and resume. I also have the series e'stop links in the box and only run one pair back to my main board.

My umbilical only includes 7 cables:
5 x VFD cables for axes and spindle
1 x 6 pair shielded instrumentation cable for proxies and pb stations
1 x earth single insulated

The 6 pair instrumentation in the umbilical includes:
1w - Active 24v
1b - resume button NO
2w - E'stop safety loop 24v
2b - E'stop safety loop NC
3w - pause lamp
3b - pause button NO
4w - Xa Proxy
4b - Xb Proxy
5w - Y Proxy
5b - Neutral 24v (needed for proxies but otherwise not used)
6w - unused (maybe for homing)
6b - unused (maybe for homing)

When I get a chance I'll draw it up neat, it'll make more sense.

LESSON LEARNED
Always remember to stop and break things back to first principles. You can buy this and buy that, but often it's just as easy to sit down and make what you want from scratch. Particularly with electrical stuff it often looks all fancy shmancy inside with lots of mysterious bits and bobs soldered to incredibly small contacts. Lot's of times if you take the time to break down the circuit and it's purpose, slowly... with a pencil and paper, you will discover it's not all that fancy shmancy electronics after all.

Dale

[lonestaral]

Looking good.

Some day when I have the time and money I will do a world tour and visit all the MechMates.

Dream on :)

[Duds]

Al, you'll never get finished on that world tour! By the time you get home 10 more will spring up. ;)

[darren salyer]

I'm digging that touchscreen. Cool.

[pblackburn]

You are moving right along.

[Duds]

Thanks Pete, I started testing tonight. Just point to points and insulation resistance on all my circuits. Haven't applied any power yet. Also started figuring out my Mach3 io and BOB settings. I have one conundrum, I have setup my estop relay to open the main contactor which drops power to my BOB. This means MACH3 gets left in the dark with IO. I'm assuming it just says ok estop fault. Is it better practice to give the BOB its own power supply?

[pblackburn]

It can be done either way. You can use it to disengage all energy except the BOB power or kill all energy.

[Duds]

I have just spent the weekend trying to get the ESS to communicate with my Windows 8 Dell AIOPC. I have had no joy, I have come to the conclusion that the ESS and Windows 8 don't talk. Does anyone have an ESS running on Windows 8.

The good news is I have been able to get the ESS communicating with and old MacBook Pro running Windows 7 as a virtual machine under VMWare. I will continue configuring on the MacBook Pro until I either downgrade the Dell to Windows 7 or figure out a solution for Windows 8 to operate.

The best news is I can communicate with my ESS! YES, I'm right now configuring my IO. I have test run my spindle. It's noisy when it gets up to 400hz ~11K RPM. It's also very exciting watching it spin up. I have not installed a braking resistor but am definitely going to do that. The spin down time is a bit scary under e'stop conditions.

Well time for me to get back to my IO config.

Lesson Learned:

Be patient grasshopper, be patient.

Dale

[Duds]

Hi Folks,

Can anyone point me to some documentation on how to take the "Emergency Mode Active" (EMA) screen signal to an output?

I want to use the EMA signal in my hard controls. Ideally I want something similar to the System Hotkeys OEM triggers except for outputs from system status.

Thanks in advance.

Dale

PS: I also want to make an output into a "one-shot". Is this possible?

[Tom Ayres]

Hey Dale, I don't think you need a braking resistor, the spindle stops within a couple of seconds which is way less time than a regular router. The resistor is just another unnecessary expense IMHO. As far as the other I definitely can not help you there although I understand what you are asking.

[Duds]

Asked and answered, Brains are the answer to both questions.

See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8V7dZy02og for a good primer on Brains.

[Duds]

For more information on oemLED see also http://www.machsupport.com/Mach3Wiki/index.php?title=OEM_LEDs

OEMbuttons see http://www.machsupport.com/Mach3Wiki/index.php?title=OEM_Buttons

[Duds]

Well folks, I am very pleased to announce that as I write this my machine is surfacing its own table top. I'm just cleaning up the top I have used as a work surface for the past months before I glue down the spoil board.

The biggest thing I can't believe is how quiet it is. I don't get any squeal from the drives or that high pitch hum. I get more noise coming off the wheels on the rails.

I'm still playing around with settings. I have the drivers set at 64 microsteps and with 40 tooth gears on at the moment. While i'm learning i'm not so interested in setting rapid records or anything I just want nice clean calibrated cuts for now.

Lessons Learned.
I'm sure you are all going to laugh but although I initially set up my A drive as the X slave on the right hand drive correctly and had some great fun making my axes go this way and that, during commissioning I made changes in Motor Tuning to the X axis but forgot the A axis. I went to test my new Steps Per and the machine groaned and shuddered and crabbed. I checked my settings, rechecked, checked my notes, reset my X back to my original settings. Drove the X all good, made changes... Groan shudder!!! Agh I redid this little process back and forth over and over checking and checking and checking before I realised I needed to change A (X slave) every time I change X. Traps for new players ;)

Will post some video tomorrow.

Dale

[Duds]

Hi, need some help. My computer went to sleep and lost ethernet traffic to the ESS. I was having a cuppa at the time and actually saw it when it happened. I have recovered the program and restarted the job, no problem there. But, I am very concerned because when the ESS lost its connection to Mach3 it didn't fail the charge pump. This meant the axes stopped because they didn't have any new step and direction signals but the spindle kept on spinning.

Lost ethernet connection should fail charge pump and cause the BOB output interlocks to come on.

Anyone seen this behaviour before? Is there a setting somewhere?

Dale

[smreish]

Dale,
You may want to check you settings on the smooth stepper plugin.

Watchdog:
- check value for ESTOP timeout. Max value of 3.1 seconds will trigger an estop
- check FEED HOLD setting, If controlled by Mach or Smoothstepper. If by smoothstepper, it looks at the watchdog setting and triggers an estop. If by Mach, I may only do what you observed - which was mach stopping running the file, but spindle kept going.

...I'll do some more reading later to see if I see anything else to look at.

Cheers.

[Duds]

Thanks Sean, much appreciated.

[smreish]

Dale,
( I am pretty sure you have already done this )

Also, go and turn off the SLEEP settings on the PC.
Interestingly enough, it's mentioned in the MACH manual due to how Mach takes over the Kernel of the PC during the run of the routine. The idle / sleep of the PC does a lot of bad things to CNC software.

[racedirector]

Dale, as far as I know the charge pump only works in parallel port mode and has no effect with the Smoothstepper.

In my control box I have a safety relay that controls the e-stops, if anything bad happens it closes everything down but leaves my 126 & ESS active to handle the report backs. You might want to look into that sort of thing.

[lonestaral]

Dale.
Ref your twin axis motors X and slave A.

Just wondering why you used a slave.

On my machine, the twin gantry motors are under control of 1 axis output.
One of the motors is wired so it rotates in the opposite direction to the other.
There is only one set of values to change.

You probably have your reasons for using a slave.
Just wondering.

[racedirector]

Al, I use X & B on my PDMX 126 (reserved A for the day that I get a 4th axis :))

[Duds]

Hi Al, I didn't even consider using a parallel signal from the BOB output. I don't have any good reasons, it just didn't occur to me to do it that way. I knew before I ever even started playing with Mach3 that it would have a slave function. I wired up the BOB a long time before I installed Mach3 or even made a decision on the controller.

I have used Siemens and Fanuc controllers and used slaves for both of those setups. And they weren't CNC machines.

One setup drove a multidirectional drive chain that pulled Bodies In White (BIW) around a vehicle assembly line. The was a complete loop, had thousands of links and was over 1200m in length. It had to push up inclines and around multiple bends. The slave drives were used to prevent the chain bunching and stretching and tuning was PIA!

The other slave setup was on a casting carousel for pouring molten copper into anode holds. The carousel spun around and delivered the next mould to the tundish. Further around the carousel were stations for blast cooling and a lifter to remove and stack the anodes. The carousel had to accelerate and decelerate very slowly and evenly to prevent ripples and waves freezing in the copper during cooling. The carousel had two drive pinions that were slaved together and tuned to prevent back-lash. The lead pinion pushed a carousel gear tooth lead face and the trailing pinion maintained pressure against a carousel tooth trailing face. The second pinion was a kind of driven idler that placed a load on the carousel gear to close the backlash gap.

[Duds]

BTW see my video as promised will make more soon. http://youtu.be/laNYzyqTuFM

And a big shout out to Kim https://www.facebook.com/KimsCustomCarvings, who I met at the Hand Made Market today! Those dinosaurs where doing a roaring trade ;)

Dale

[Ailmik]

Thanks Duds, nice meeting you. Would have been good to have a longer chat, absolute cracker of a weekend.
Cheers
Kim

[Duds]

Hi Folks,

I have started cutting some things and am learning the CAM part of it

I have trialled the following CAM software; CAMBAM, MakerCam, FusionCam (Fusion360) and ESTLCAM. So far ESTLCAM is out on top for ease of use. FusionCAM is almighty powerful but the learning curve is longer than it first looks, and both CAMBAM and Cut2D seem to have hobbled their demo versions, at least I can't get code out of CAMBAM longer than ~500 lines and Cut2D will only let me play output their demo files. MakerCam.com, seemed promising but I'm not sure what is going on with it, all I get is progressively large circles from the origin. At first glance the gcode looks good but when you simulate it its just bigger and bigger circles.

For the following questions my parameters are:
Design -- Adobe Illustrator
Export -- DXF
CAM -- ESTLCAM
Control -- Mach3
Units -- mm

A couple of questions:

1. I cut three tuning objects; square, circle, right angle triangle: all objects are 100mm x 100mm. All objects have been cut 99.1mm. Any ideas where the .7mm error might be coming from?

15228
BTW the cutting direction was counter clockwise.

2. The triangle has an excellent 90deg right angle and two great 45deg angles on the hypotenuse but there is a slight concave in the hypotenuse towards the inside of the shape. the concave is approximately 1mm. What could be causing that?



Thanks in advance.

[racedirector]

Cambam isn't hobbled at all, sounds like you have a unlicenced version of Mach. I have been using Cambam for ages (still on my 40 uses) and I can produce multi thousand line files without issue. Unlicensed Mach limits you to 500 lines.

[pblackburn]

The triangle should be really short g code. Point to point basically. Look at it to verify some arc is not being translated. The .7 could be an offset in your cam program or wrong tool diameter. I have not used those programs but you can double check it.

[Fox]

Is it just me or does 99.1+0.7 mistake still not make a 100? ;) I would measure if your toolbit is actually what you think it is. If it is bigger then you think cause you are using inch bits instead of metric it could cause the size issue. Your illustrator drawing should just show three control points for your triangle, and ctrl+f should show a nice vector. Ctrl+u turns on your snap for drawing.

[Tom Ayres]

Could be Steps per unit calibration.

[lonestaral]

Are there any diameter offsets active ? (G41, G42)
Check the Tool Settings page for diameter settings.
Measure the diameter of the tool in use.
It might not be what it says on the box, carton, packet, tin, container.

The curve on the hypotenuse might be tool deflection.
Reduce the feed rate.
If it is still there check how rigid your Z axis is.
Have fun.

I knew you would have reasons for a slave axis.
Sounds like you have had a lot of experience with them.
Keep at it.
It is usually the small things that make the difference.

[2e0poz]

I would go back and check all wiring connections on the machine, then check again before tweaking anything else. Everything looks like it is in the right ball park. Had similar issues where it it was just lose stepper wiring, mainly where i had more than one wire on the same connection.

[2e0poz]

Did you get this sorted?

[Duds]

Hi Paul, yes and no, I got it mostly sorted. The remaining 20% not sorted will just take experience to solve. Feeds and Speeds.

1. The .9 (I failed maths) error was caused by using a metric offset with an imperial tool and just bad maths. There seems to be a lot of simple maths in my new hobby. Thanks Peter.

2. The hypotenuse concave was caused by tool deflection, I have reduced my feed rate and it goes away. I'm still playing around with feeds and speeds. (more maths) I've taken to keeping a job diary. I basically sketch down every job I chuck on and write myself some speeds and feeds notes and other setup info like jigs and tools and preparations, post finishing. This part of learning to run the machine will never end I suspect.

I have found a new fault introduced recently thats really interesting. One of my drivers spits out spurious steps for no reason. I was out in the garden and heard all this grinding noise coming from the garage and got a shock when I walked in and found the machine crabbing up the X axis.

The computer was off, BOB off, and just the main board had power and K1 (Main) contactor was on so there was DC power. I did some simple swaps of drivers and motors and found that whatever motor was connected to the suspect driver was getting steps driven.

During my fault finding I changed my micro stepping dip switches to 10 micro steps and the fault went away. Then I changed back to 256 micro steps and the fault still stayed away. The fault has since come back twice. Never while running a job but when the DC is on idle for more than an hour or so. All I do is flick the dip switch at random and then set them back to 256 steps and all comes good. MotionKing are sending me a new driver. So it's a pain, but, it's not stopping me.

By the way, some of you probably read the Christmas Bauble's discussion. That project was both a huge success and a big ass failure.

Success, the baubles design actually turned out nice. I learned a LOT! Feeds, Speeds, WCS, G28, G54, CAM, File management, Design to CAM process, tool changing... It was lots of fun.

Failure, the entire sheet of baubles ended up ruined because very early in the 'Side B' of the job the tool picked up the paper I put down on the material for paint masking in a later process. The paper wrapped up in the spindle and broke a 1.2mm tool. I replaced the tool but didn't home or check my work position. The fault must have caused some lost steps and the job ended up with Side 'B' misaligned to Side A.

Lesson Learned: Design simply. The job was just too complex. If I do it again I will reduce the variety of designs in the baubles and maybe just use now row of unique designs and use offsetting to duplicate each row down the sheet. I would also put more thought into the tool I intend to use to produce the design at the CAD stage and try and get better balance between positive and negative space in the designs, i.e. use patterns that aren't biased toward all milling or all unmilled.

The thing I was most happy with about the job is my Z axis verticality. My pockets show virtually no tool pass marks at all. And my circle have hardly any chatter which is great, especially without running reduction gearing.

[KenC]

256 micro steps? Why would you want that many for? It reduces the actual torque and doesn't improve real resolution. 8~10 is where the sweet spot is.

[bradm]

Dale, I would expect any driver with floating inputs ( BOB and computer off ) to behave unpredictably. The wires and unpowered circuits act as antennas and can pick up and amplify electrical noise.

I would not expect a driver with disconnected inputs to do this, but as soon as you attach a wire and don't have the source on, you're in random territory.

Standard practice on systems that amplify small signals into large ones is to turn them on from source to output, and turn them off from output to source. That way you're never leaving inputs open to noise, whether it be a concert audio system, a radio transmitter, or a CNC machine.

[2e0poz]

Do you have the 'Enable' connected on the drivers? if not i would add them in. it will take another pin from the bob but still gives extra saftey here.

[Duds]

@Paul, I don't have the enable connected but its on my list of things to do, As well as taking out the alarm signals back to the BOB.

@Brad, whatever the issue is with the driver it is only the one driver that does it and in testing the driver is failing even without signal wiring connected. The driver uses plug in terminals, so I did a bit of swapping when I was trying to isolate the source of the fault.

@Ken, I'm really interested in understanding more about torque sweet spots in the motor/driver combo. My drivers let me use microsteps from 10 to 512. I started with 256 because it was in the middle and haven't had any problems with torque or losing steps so just left it.

[pblackburn]

From www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html (http://www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html)

Any microstep resolution beyond 10, such as 125, yields no additional accuracy, only empty resolution. By analogy, a voltmeter having a 6 digit display while having 1% accuracy would have meaningful information only in the first two digits. There are two exceptions justifying higher resolutions: The step motor is being run in a closed-loop application with a high-resolution encoder or the application requires smooth operation at very low speeds (below 5 full steps per second).

www.geckodrive.com/how-morphing-works (http://www.geckodrive.com/how-morphing-works)

[Duds]

Hi guys, I haven't posted in ages but do check in and snoop from time to time.

I thought it might be helpful for others to run through a bit of a lessons learned and follow-up to my MechMate.

First. The machine is going really well and only gets better and better as I further develop the machine and my skills. In particular my experience and skills as a machinist and designer are the most important aspect of this machine. For those considering building a MechMate do not underestimate what comes after. Operating the machine and designing for the machine are considerably more challenging than bolting together and welding steel and wiring up stepper motors and drivers. At least that has been my experience.

I have added a Z axis home limit. It's probably not necessary but in the early days I kept ruining jobs due to my poor understanding of G28 and that resulted in the tool taking of and gouging through material due to inconsistent Z (machine coordinates) position when initially turned on the machine in the morning. Adding the Z axis home limit meant that I was able to ensure consistent machine coordinates for Z as well as X and Y.

I have added a Z zero plate. Setting with Z zero with a paper became very old very quickly.

I dumped my MotionKing 2LD545 stepper drivers and replaced them with Leadshine EM806 stepper drivers. One of my MotionKing drivers developed this weird thing where it would intermittently and at random change microstepping units. I had all my stepper drivers set up for 10 microsteps and during a job from time to time the driver would just start outputting a different microstep value. It started on one of my long axis drives so I noticed immediately because the in the middle of the job the gantry started making this loud grinding noise because the left drive was moving at 10 microsteps increments and the right motor was moving at some other increment despite them both being fed the same step signals. I would turn the machine off and on again and the fault would go away, to not show itself for 6 weeks or more at times. Then it cam back again. The fault took me ages to track down.

At first I thought maybe the BOB was outputting weird steps, but my oscilloscope proved that wrong. Eventually the problem became so regular that I was able to prove it was a specific driver by swapping the drivers around and watching the problem move to the new axis. I spoke to Motion King about it but they weren't interested in helping me except to sell me a new drive. In the end I decided to buy 4 Leadshine drives instead of one new replacement MotionKing drives because the really aren't all that expensive and I just felt grumpy towards MotionKing. Not really a good reason, but, anyway.

The new Leadshine drives meant I could add missed step detection alarms/stops. So I did. It's reassuring to know it's there, but, I don't think it ever operates these days. Would have been much more handy in my early learning days when I was struggling with too deep cuts and poor cutting strategies.

I buy really cheap tools from China off eBay. They don't really last as long as good tools but on a cost to operating hours basis 10 cheap tools still beats a single good tool every time. Good tools just aren't worth the price premium in my opinion.

I had a strange comms problem with my ESS. It was just losing comms in the middle of a job. Was really annoying. I eventually isolated vibration on my Ethernet card as the problem. Because I use a touchscreen all-in-one pc mounted to the front of my machine I couldn't replace the Ethernet card so I just installed a USB Ethernet dongle and it works great, no more problems there.

I settled, finally, and after much soul searching and demoing on Fusion360 for my CAD/CAM environment. I don't pay for it I have a hobby licence. I'm not earning any money with the machine just exploring art/craft and personal projects so there's no conflict there. I really love Fusion360 it helps me express my inner designer. I can't recommend it enough. I love to model up new projects and then create really high quality renders and the move into the CAM environment and set my work-paths. It's a great one stop shop.

Fusion360 has matured enormously over the past two years. I participate in the Autodesk Fusion 360 forums a little bit and they (Autodesk) really listen to the designer feedback. They are about to introduce sheetmetal tools that will allow developing complex 3 dimensional planes to flat planes. This is going to be a really important addition to my design quiver because it will let me consider designs that use plywood in twisted and bowed shapes but cut from flat sheets. I have some boat designs I want to work on when that comes in.

I never got around to putting on stickers. It's still on my todo list.

I really want to add vacuum hold downs. I have been using these cheap plastic spring clamps to hold sheets to the baseboard. Occasionally I'll drive a tool straight through them. Doesn't seem to bother the tool and I just chuck the broken spring clamps. But vacuum hold down will definitely be a big improvement in my workflow.

I added dust collection but haven't made a decent dust shoe that works effectively. Most of the time I run without dust collection. It makes horrible mess but my garage is semi enclosed, more of a carport really, and I just use a petrol garden blower to blow the sawdust out into the garden.

I have discovered one advantage of not using dust collection. I tend to design cut profiles without using tabs. The sawdust fills in the cut path and holds the internal part reasonably still during the profile cut through. This means I don't need to worry about tabs and my internal part moving. It really isn't an ideal work practice though and when I do eventually get vacuum hold down going I will really need to revisit my dust collection shoe design.

I use a lot of Hoop Pine ply. Russian Birch ply is really nice and Hoop pine ply is just as nice but slightly cheaper. It should be cheaper than it is I think. My ply costs are frustrating but I have learned that it's better to spend a bit more on nice ply than to spend forever sanding and prepping for finishing crappy ply.

Oh, one final thing, accelerations and speeds, along with feeds and speeds are an on-going and never ending tuning and learning curve. I cannot recommend enough that anyone considering building a MechMate commit themselves to research, practice and experience building knowledge in this area.

Well, that's about it, happy to answer any questions.

Dale

[sailfl]

I have found that the saw dust does help with keeping piece from moving but they also help with dulling the bits quicker.
I never heard of Hoop Pine but I see it is grown every where.

[Alan_c]

Thank you Dale, nice feedback.

[jhiggins7]

Dale,

You have provided a really nice summary/article about your experience with the MechMate.. I very much appreciate your taking the time to provide us the information about your experiences and give us the benefit of your learning.

I must admit, I'd like to see photos of some of your work, but still the article is well worth the read.

Finally, I would like to encourage you to add the stickers and qualify for a Serial Number. You certainly have earned it.

Regards,
John Higgins

[Duds]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iwUr9_DoQCK1OYGIPbsAFofqK52U21-dekPnesY9zNW3VdMecn4UDVQohj0u9Yfx2Q8pa1bw6kSSl-OQdoBhl9ntVHbZcNNEm3L0JQp_ZfbvrBcKfneRJTRdLi1FMvrY BX7Pw8oqnO1uudgtNOluxKR2TnCwai783C-XMzcnSwHwQx4j0cSgUHr6PXkHB2hNmvPsstHUky9hj8qOMNVTY a_kGMocpJKr8PtxWszGqEgcWo3y_6DtmrcWjdxqi_gZ3d-5Rlyp0IJQKiWF83qrxA8LnXU_ZNUnfPf3lSh0Rj6Htn3cCZg-5sR00Ysij7nnpAPPEodrPTP_kz80MFoLB8GpyLs7hPBcR2o-auyDdn_dsI0XAVzabWMb5tla-ikneQayk1lAm-7vMHNAo8mV1inrGnm07_WNOVss2XeN1J5DvbUVs5qsghodveqh KznAjjphgPmMxld8gxORGaItMssY2xMbVCRRE-zWHWNvootJKpVaIsd4KEIQlTAMT7v9S0uBCUAhIwRToB_ztW65 0IsV3YS-lq14wLXPUWVl4y5wKxfTobGsswZP-kShbEnhAsmIx0ZSR7IIItJ6YiJE7bbrXUpr-RA=w1438-h1078-no

This photo is a project I'm working on right now. It's a stand up paddle board. I designed the paddle board in Fusion 360 from scratch, as a t-spline object, and then developed the stringer and frame shapes as models that I then placed into a nested arrangement for developing the CAM work paths. The paddle board will be made using strip planking hollow core construction, very similar to many strip planked canoes and kayaks. It will be completely sealed, with a breather, and fibreglass sheathed. Strips will be from Hoop Pine solid lumber cut into strips on my bandsaw. There will probably be some decorative contrasting timber elements but I haven't planned that yet.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cZtycTnYxSy_VU3YxSU_bLR2mRuUlfmAQB_TiC9d1QfI2DOGuk oGU-Wp-TTFxKtwX4RYYgZBG69jNSaQ5SYv40vUWrWlaNETWIp-InWWk1KvB8xlgnD4pBNjZeSZGCJ4W4IXMsadPV7OWnyAqZxE0e _THFEr7W7Gc26ZrpxB8BJTVnMLj7tjkW8JlR95Hv-5wRhh5i1v2NlahX0ucCsQjdPhA13bywasRrDW1CQjqF4FQYJdo yYuub8UtIqMLFM_wbT2kjpHUipbVTI_0uyD0tB-ze2K7Rimd4WZouVyAnG5iNOrJcmI-S01aLDH5DE4oqHnAtQtAQnOc0TYO5CKHNtQ_BgvuYZlPowFBTF mmYpTM8JwB_P1SYxOMWkoVDnQvSgHL45Eks6Y6rfeRDrfL5CUp UKtu8Qzar3tQaET6cMejO1hJvY0nlFDFJZEHm4Axi1ACyocBCV y-YAuJ-8yjEEJMWhrQ4YQy6z2zNDsr3xF8sTxVfYz7jwBO5Dohh5vZNbj Sryr5qcHJa8lGQyU6a1H3GLpQA7f4VB433Jf2_nrsgbIp4ulbg nPe3UcrCYh4jssGaEAz3ViPZz-a6q3fm2bIhz_cNk=w2568-h1604-no

This is a screen shot of the model and the CAM nesting layout. All pretty much self explanatory.

https://goo.gl/photos/GJuLtWWKTBPJNTC48
This link will take you to a series of renders of the finished product. The renders arent that good I need to spend some time on the texture map controls to get everything looking spiffy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s9jTm4hgJYZ9q6hYWkyCC0Cbg7fjZAbcm9AEYvyGwM5sxOjcn6-Z-u_nmxlWN_wt8dCa3ETqH7C1jPGQ8RWGMHU2Q8Mg1XuBS2bWkVJ _o0iXlqe5LE1w-CmQV58TvC8F7Ue8ls0mN7NzMGDCUBD31Fa7azHRw2luk29Ao2Z XQ1YvAWf2_-t11d0Ko4H91Xo-9dZrtNysPJcNU-35U6TP_xvmUJs10IBMz7iSha7lBDjLxqw64NU36NSw69LSgvBa 2rOFhcKoB-i1czvRmlo2EbNTX7TSP886DXU5CcVDiRp4vIpTQ41djUsoiVsB hDdJ9iIoVg6BQ6YvbmG07bJm2b8rISNrcv26Mknt7HqOcQdXy2 u7pMJINgm1W-U86uK0oopdHKy8qybB4u71WfVLXbaW2XwpLg5b9uOCur4vVtuU VeqH0_q-pNczAvpt4TPG3lUpodujnfVvzvZI1-kDnpw8173aKwIHrXKCIE4_ji9h2Qu6kkcJLqoAbsnT13AMwiIX 2wAtFMGle6_roozupIJfQYVKRSqbMdXrgOCNdSkC1hxejSMUwp _OlN0jwxTQeqpr7U9xxjZiqEdCqpR0ZeelaLqbluo=w1437-h626-no

[Duds]

This is a video I made of a video booth prototype I made for a mate who is thinking about making video booths for events like weddings. Anyway this was all very rough and ready just to get the concept across the line. I'm not sure whether my mate is going to go ahead with more of these or what. But it was a fun project.

https://goo.gl/photos/c5ZLE36ykn78FfFk7

[Duds]

This links to a few screen shots of a project I have going in the background, not even near cutting yet. It's the Iain Oughtred Yawl Roan Mor. A 25' double ended yawl.

https://goo.gl/photos/cRBBctxXb4Gg4KfV6

This is the project that I'm really waiting for Fusion360 to release the sheet metal tools so that I can develop the planking for cutting from the model. There's other ways to develop the planking shapes of course but I have so many other things going on this little project is just sitting on the back-burner.

[Duds]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i64-ijaEI8Cuk1gMXGWWnhEwsyI2gmzIEDgyhDfToivFj4e5VM76Je PIyUh-OWE2QdPvNH6C-CwhiKpL1cBWgIIBzCAJC-Wqn98pNFLXh3_tXjoOgkiPiNiUeWqAaCvY0o-hObR-pLCBkDzQeW_odlQFTigw5_laopRIMOLOxN6tJnMR2EiXEHtxzs SzLgGbeAkIntRm14nENssFu0DzE_tCRis9A2n3MZhLBi_xl-INyAzVBCeXMrXhKnQwQUWSBwri7EXf9ICN4T4euHDg9h1DDuFr bUXnrr43TiS97Pgx_OarBJRzTHfSGymJN3Hd6L3FTWBJfB0g8g aY3YehNFRi4DivsoK4esFgcGWbuNglymt8wQI7yBzB2tQrgGNv 939xcVzY6uN7CXTmP9Pq9Eu0J8Ec5ZKCm_eWIreJcs1RdArPFD khIXkNJjTd1PvC1pUaBVEjEuYvw-JkpvgxVuGXeaWqkUyVz3GWTvYEVOdVkkobL35Eo3TTV_Nnu7Gg fRTRNe0xgj4JZ0jI_OdWGlMT_beCmrNqWDKtUlZwnHkCk2yoTt BaHkNAogtDbQjtUP4VEuW7igBoatSX3IqeNQmVOEjoGeo=w445-h334-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NNNQTEkfml7MF08eBj3tBG2exYRfzWurbgEC5HJAlrDuzbC6fZ zwkomRtRfX6LPQCFCT3N7a_zLud1yRvRxtjGtspAjZe809OJxB KxsKZtP3VE5gRfn7Zr2-WUXECn8qvcn2UuyTMr65orgRm9Ei8XdT5QIwc75FVvdzfjp--ajsL6lRM-U0Eo8C3fU2pRlEZcSfgmK2ZeuihSlYHV04cY8AdbkWiJw0Wxpk EMV4J-NL3VYXib24_UMewKBZJzR38GzYgoPOJeaXX--ER3UfOmPvqVw8jnD4hikQAtGa3wwFaM0iVE5aRx-1JbXW0OFKiqLJNxbtPBJXs5ohuImCC2LJTtXXkB8vWtHXkOE8P wX2dLVttDfA8MFUT1Oyah5z7cStzXwqrbq9aNRs5U6QkQsUPLg lt38YuTlaH86XGTO0_Yx4h99pDkN3DswrZF3fiYVdgxFrwCdF1 5u1VseUQjUhasqpXUZf97QrtOH9GPgiCuFLHmW_4G4b5m626Ny hxO5k9flNQ3TlK4Tx0ti3BGcw5OjccZaWHllBs_4OtMfssCYRe u8f63N3IjldFsyGVLysQm_LPfsjrp9-m5qrgvy9CydHlf4=s1658-no

Cutting out the stringers for a Paulk workbench I made for myself. I love my Paulk work bench but I didn't follow Paulk's instructions and because I knew better made it from solid timber and increased the specs of the space frame construction. Paulk recommends 1/2" ply and I used 3/4" ply for top and bottom and 3/4" pine for stringers. The result is my bench is really heavy and not really portable which is kinda the point. On the plus side it's solid and beautiful to work on.

https://goo.gl/photos/Xdwti7CQCvzADdXw8

https://goo.gl/photos/FqR2Qoqyqq9ZFwzMA

Link to photos of Paulk workbench parts being cut on MechMate. In the second link you can see how I modified the Paulk workbench design to add a bench vice.

[Duds]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9dOusAt5F5w-Hg5Z_gdjyU5rHsq8_Uz8rQHv5U7DdHuJVEcEzeGNEwj8mv69Zo lDfXYqlTzKD8EBo1YSdGt3YFNluPKbXkQv_Et6W2SJmJE2-6Eh2WT8reGVZiJuGuOrN16DWODTAP7ufDeDM91WX5aj8sCbFPG u_nwtmSlrPfpSDk05VJO1T9NnHHfOG2nVc3tr8vPeCYmzrIIwD 8gp_yW1PB5U0eybmNE8Utj8ZMEh3HIN15TLswXhJZnyCZkhOem 2FykwwZNDh24EnQCRppexpZ1AjdURd-f1rD4NeVsLvMs7HumvV7RsD7qf9QjT7RtIVo0tz6hObZjnE2yR _UV24_D9bfr3F__6u6DYY0uRkF6cU7DjJTqYpNjOU1Y-QcNQSuQuh0II-hqCqXAb5ui6MhYPOrOQmqClLLdg8N5wvXoPwhEq0trZ9jAZvy4 Fu83gXJCdlDRsHFTChfXIvDJ6m4wa5Gw2dHzHUk3C7PKovP3P8 2y7SNcDie0vXkr7s1EWTfmtfPmvnMl6mxHhZz7ntgBT6E4zkNM 6eEVGN4lBZFkJh8sFaT9jxPVMMZ1LcsjtODZDwGiGVtMaTHE4U 6ssTc5uJEg=w1244-h1658-no

A little clock I made for the kitchen at home. This was a just a mucking around with exploring engraving letters project.

[Duds]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DRxn79BN1SiEyYnCVcJdqbBa2B2X_P4RAiIguo1MvAqFFBw_jZ BH8Qmap23wpZNNVhEaAYecyUaRx57pH7U0UnR82_4zEr4_nzEZ D4dcavXdozKKBCglZwKKlLuhZJqp5oa8YtBAVQzEQb49g3GqoV RfYZ7yCStep-cs23nhNvlp1C9WGnOEkZxFUWGplGGSBhTV6d1DRyFYfbYwFSY3 jxduiLM1it0icV8KmC4iXkE9yXVamhfN56ca0KZsVqrzEjPDt9 HCTZQ48zsWVA3C15dBFW2QZ2s8YtQ6Ij03dfTVKlBvblIfwhWA mcYE_MS5bC4bLdnozurtSgM2XZ2MaDN2UxlggBs9nO7WTppT-YHBEaVwfpXhB8HwDSLO5f_SWfiecyvDbnIFF088Bh4RUrZkxQp 6I5COXUngQL4u2Jtw52CHlsigd-_ENFuvdrT-ayqXAh3dLUH3CPoKo3VgsROwb34C9znjmZFnGEUqa6JfS93apz F0ah2iw-qUT49WMV34K1XQ-r9WD02ot2hfq2olw_Ll8mWy1xvw_417zis6x3IdVZloJLWjfod R4iCfCEbBCoCcHUprO1xuxHKGDZEoeTa58Zg=w1244-h1658-no

A bunch of tables and chairs, I made for a mate that was opening a cafe. He's been a Barista for years but this was his first cafe as an owner. The brief was "Make it tough, make it CHEAP!!!!"

The tables were made from old doors and the chairs from form ply. I charged the stools out at $20 a pop, I made nothing on them just covered materials. But I have a special place for these stools. I really like how they turned out. I've often though of making some more for myself but in some really nice ply.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kSYRiWM2IUSIVCRuCCRhSXl_nTzUJEaeSYkFqUNCyX9b_S82xx T3XaXNcTaHxDXv9WB8TrVs2aCGjzO6X3atK9TVO78WF9RsQCVX iTqlHucex1X5riyxH741wh5BBTAmy0pPLxq4jYIkwRL-yLXQE9JW8ER439JvRxHBQ4UC4awpfPl1R6bnRjWBPQDnA3x8HZ EodLWt_1USZ5ocXX_fTGzabjbJMkePWP-JFALsIGF-iLj-Sja9KGTtdQTyQo1R1_OF52gjV4XMmALlwDWMIZMQZD11n5kIM3 ZtXARERo-3eT5HwhdTeLeKTaOMZfF6ykwfuHrzult1adlW9mwg-_y5Agc-4a75GERY-gCKVKXo4o2V5SqWSYwdM8J_tHEdxxIq0-n6rfYSrkUZg2AzdC7zw5OjBHaSIMbnDwQ4zKsWaFQMCgdFPYD5 UNcvXye2QU8bhgJSL90Ki6KAokt7jh9xOQXfBmJk8blaZGFX74 BE8dpDoInpzORahCnznGwEXWD9VNXTlrq0Kz_0dgwiUHFeQ3pM It10x9B3UjfGKDqNybxq_r08Md9yUF0SkGGDxkgpcSbGab79Be m0STch9Cp5mluTaI8=w2212-h1658-no

[Duds]

A prototype stool I made for my Barista mate. I made this for nothing and gave it to him. Didn't finish it at all it was a really quick little job. My mate loved it but just couldn't afford to buy any. I couldn't produce them for $20 a pop. ;) go figure. I still want to work this design out a little more one day. One day i'll make it in solid hardwood and finish it up beautifully and sell them for $300+ a pop. One day... when I get a roun tuit.

https://goo.gl/photos/TWLZsvRJVQvPR7cR9

[Duds]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JxvAk-0P4-vdpoABo8vWeEXuea1Ct1gjCq3xUefvlMbhmkajVnGOm2UKLCW9 rmQtOZ28P-louq5LBxaDaDwaLFjkZ0eBOccA_MYu_KBzcWly441_Hy45Erbf fk29yyrjM_B-JFAPhDWm2562so8aqfq9nTIdoWrl1DyINBAdqoR7wTBGFYch-kZORVfPswoRgQQlY_Q9u7H2GShckG6Z7mMyri3n5o-8vVZZ69VVKreaCOtwtt6fHL00nBJuHLNWSeAqdopi06G1HX-y0I82yPOQ_zJJ_Cd1ePZ4MFAxgLVcvI4posH0TpdJCfhoJEYef vW7ztHZXQ79j34g_hgkkoewWTn_zuu9MRNHuJdILRk6D1hmvk5 bOnxN6rhUdELUXBofMsEqCFQCVHu5j6PaRfRnUG_iE9kL7_ydH 25OzRVQn3Z9KZTmepx2wrNCwCWOfjFHGm7wxlpgDDm84Qrtas5 RQLjyHkjwRux6s8D4P4KiwFGcINfrQixjqW5UED03T-vu0ipY_VXCcKXNZcqkZGOsKQvPRjDMHUk1rEBO0Y30sytcJrhx mMjt0rj4cgsEZ30_MFd1nvNtlufxCgH7F6ImN0xLzUs=w2212-h1658-no

I made the distribution board cabling shroud with the labelling and the sign. I also made the pine stools. The stools were also a prototype. I never sold any of those stools. They are a beautiful shape and I loved the negative space and the way they stack but they were just way too weak. It was trying to pare the stools back to the minimal nothing and went too far. Beautiful to look at just don't sit on it.

[Duds]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y4STSqiVFxOBopNbrKdViR26Qs_Cv3v_b75Cj7PaeVC6ljExfd ei5zMvWyyKi3LudyotjvFw-QK1_VgZGbhrXttjW7PoXHcVt9wakVWja4fF6lOBK_2Nixx-x3II_R_5hU6crVlO0LCSGCJkkEkgOc2Dm2dKuSZlDtCL9CuL4L pNHnq9F-kdvKS12lrShn0UHZY9-S5lIYrV3F58r5WUJiKmO5X9AgKuK4NSFbDWbz5nOJghsfTy5pF tgFpVJ6f9PGVhsJx971g1ReXxRcFpFmCob7S9TXZqryrc3KplV HQTH4-cMsKcC-uT4UyJSn5yafya-mzUjZntulRlZ1CY4drj9jdyiSK_Nwo_J4Ftpdkp0YtbKqhqlIS j54QIWB9tn2cekR_9__DzQtoghzCGPWbj6l7Yum5Tbn0mkXkOq fWNk6QGt0GN3aYjapVBLrFUaDZzAJM-tD1icPHvk030t81ImjhBiXWkaVqm2pREa-byKTzXIOBGEvdO4KmCQv9fY4bSwr8dGMiBPLZ9UblW-fHFnFTLnc77kOMZ7bIcw1L6P3-VdrswD6Q6AY28XYK7qKXQDlhukFgdPHmoLW1urDmLRQvee7M=w 2212-h1658-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sb4G3nJFHQ_vAoxk62MST39MeZ2GrkPjx2k__91VsdRKU96Plm DBlhqka2CYbd3pu_KqJvDhSFIDDWp3zH9q6YZrb5K9qv_NbwII Gfv0bFIVh_v3CiuwNGsIYsUk4ASvsJlLP9BLvzNjYzVLY43yag 1kGGHm_HlHlVfvRtqvTYy3VhPpM1vEDymoMUfxAMIfY4sblexg sfEqesqmTjybR3MAoPieuzK6PmwcYkKgqz0UVu3kaPxuKN1uGx CYGTcTDbQhxzhf_AHe_3A2RV8dLkRqZqAw1R7LTU3Il1cpGrSA IrvfomHUgfl1lwz2CZCR1bVZJgC4afzUwjntmPWFt5vwlZ1k9q RZXc3NyubnOSRyPR_OPRPouZhCK0w3d-X9pKOdhWGgfZkPeTM966JwH5wCCul2TktoMklN_H227fUsxWmJ WDwn8oBM6haGZK-Y_Mg4CTuOs95WzF3FRwEWEsMa-SXvwWFJWib0HFeaIvvioJjNn4KBg8ujdmcFHwAtYmRr1Yb3gXN Bp64l0v9G8vTxwdVO2hMuaHmMGy-DODBFlZ-RcCdH_8oOu8fM1_DXUJU_PW61Zfza8pktvDVL8M94c1Nvh7I=w 1438-h673-no

A bracelet I made for my wife.

[racedirector]

Wow, ultra impressive work Dale. Looks like you are getting a great grasp on things!

[jhiggins7]

Dale, very impressive work. Thanks so much for sharing. You have, clearly, achieved a high level of competence with both the Mechmate tool and the software to drive it.

[racedirector]

Dale, was looking at your F360 screenshot and see a Position set in the toolbar. Where did you get that from? Been searching my install (also on Mac) and can find that toolbar item anywhere or any particular add-in that would create that. Any info on where to find that elusive item would be appreciated...

[Duds]

Thats the position capture and release buttons. I don't use them. They seem to be only available after you have created a t-spline form. You might have noticed that moving bodies, when you have duplicates, does some weird stuff. ie if you move body A(1) then body A(2) will also move. But if they have different orientations for their origins they will appear to move in unfathomable ways. In actual fact they are both A(2) is moving the same X,Y and Z parameters as A(1) but because the orientations of their origins are different the global X,Y,Z parameters moved are different.

Selecting an object from the object tree will select only that and move it. Selecting an object from the workspace will select that object and infer selection of it's duplicates and will move the duplicates as well.

Capture will lock in an objects new position as it's orientation and origin. Release will maintain its prior position and orientation and origin as the current orientation and origin. Any actions applied to a released object will apply in reference to the prior (original) orientation and reference.

I hope that makes sense.

[racedirector]

Aha, thanks Dale. I suspect I have never noticed it before while using Fusion, have moved a heap of things but haven't scanned the toolbar during it. :)

[Duds]

@bruce, I just realised I told you porky pies, partly. The position tool set shows up whenever you move a duplicate object, not related to t-spline objects. The tools let you lock in the current position or revert to original position. The rest of the stuff, about origins and orientations still remains true.

[Paul Scammell]

Gudday Dale

I am about to start building a Mechmate and whilst I have some Mech Eng background it is neither as relevant nor as recent as yours.
I am retired, live on a small farm in the middle of nowhere and I want the Mechmate for purely recreational usage. There is no chance it will be used commercially, I left all that behind when I retired.
I find the prospect of the build a little daunting but I am hoping that the Mechmate Forum will help with support and advice on the more difficult issues.
That said, I am not without assets: Mike (Metalhead) has given me a lead to rnixon in Melbourne for a laser cut kit. I have very well-equipped engineering and woodworking workshops, I have a tame electrical/electronic genius available to me for the final build and I am not in a great hurry. I would benefit from some advice on where to buy Mechmate components in Oz.
I live about two hours out of Canberra and I would appreciate an opportunity to meet up and discuss your experience and of course, to listen to any advice you choose to pass on. I am also very interested to see what additional features you have added to your machine.
If you can find the time to talk with me, please advise a convenient date, time and location.
Regards
truckers10

[Duds]

Hey Truckers,
Give me a call sometime on 0400 944 492 and we'll figure something out.
Happy for you to come have a look at the machine sometime. I haven't been using it lately too busy with other work. It's a good machine, the mechmate, solid and reliable. My biggest recommendation will be to learn CAD/CAM. The results you get out of it are directly related to your design skills. Start researching feeds and speeds, start researching tools and tooling, start researching CAD, and get an understanding of g-code and offsets.

I look forward to your call.

Dale

[Paul Scammell]

Gudday Dale
This is my second attempt, something odd happened with the first and I'm not sure it was submitted.
Thanks for your time and help with in our discussion on Saturday, I now have a clearer picture of the project ahead.
You mentioned several suppliers of components, could you please give me some leads on them, in particular:
Canberra steel merchant;
Rack, pinion and v-plate (Queensland?)
Spring
Gas strut (Melbourne?)
Router head (Internet?)

Many thanks

Paul Scammell
(02) 4847 1201
truckers10@activ8.net.au