Got clean air now!! #127 - Big Falls, Mn

[Kornerking]

Darren Sayler that is. I've known him for a few years from other forums and he keeps BRAGGING about his CNC.

I am now at the point where I need to go that way with my production, so I figured to look at this route.

I programmed and ran cnc machines at Marvin windows a lot of years ago so I understand what they can do.

I expect I will do a lot of looking prior to embarking on building one, but it looks like this is a huge resource.

First criteria will be a machine to handle 5x5 sheets.

So what kind of money should I be asking the company for?

[MetalHead]

Well most are in the 6K to 8K range.

Welcome to the forum and we look forward to your build.

[servant74]

And Darren's last name isn't even Bush! :) ... Glad to have you with us.

[Kornerking]

Mike, sounds like good territory.

Took me a second Jack.

I need to do some reading up but how many trades people might I need. I have a full 15,000 sq ft woodshop but the metalworking will probably need to go to our local machine shop.

[darren salyer]

Welcome aboard Pete!!
I'll advise you do a ton of reading, then read some more, then after you've read a bunch, read even more.
Knowing what you at least initially plan to do, I'll suggest belt drives, and a Milwaukee router. I'll also say you'll be kicking yourself if you don't do at LEAST 5x8.
In your shoes, working with 5x5 BB, I'd build a 5x12 machine, with a 2 zone vacuum table. Load a sheet on one end, and set up the other end while its cutting. Re-zero on the other end, and then unload/reload the first end, repeat as needed for some serious production. at 15k square feet of shop space, you have enough room.

OR, make me an offer I cant refuse for mine.....

And I'm not BRAGGING, merely educating.....:)

[Mrayhursh]

Darren can you include some photos of your vacuum table. I have seen the photos that you have previously posted but I do not see what the vacuum hold down part is.

[Kornerking]

So, I"ve been doing a little snooping.

Is tool changing available? I can't seem to find reference too it.

[danilom]

Only if you buy $$$$ ATC spindle

[Tom Ayres]

There is an ATC available for around $3k that includes the router and some basic collet setups. Someone posted the link somewhere on the forum. Do a quick search. By the way Darren gives good advise and has earned his bragging rights:)

[darren salyer]

Pete, I would imagine you'd use a 1/4" compression or spiral bit for the bulk of your work on the KK.
While an ATC would be nice, I wouldn't let it be a deal breaker.
The ability to troubleshoot and repair your own machine without waiting for tech support would be more valuable to me.
In Mach3, you can customize the screen to do a "fast tool change" which will travel the spindle to a tool change area, pause for the tool change, then re-zero itself to a machine mounted touch-off plate, and continue the cut file.
Only a handful of times have I used more than two bits for a project, and it wasn't cabinet related.
Toss out a link to what you do, and these guys will be even more helpful.
With all the DIY electrical that goes on here, your annual warning wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Great guys here, let em get to know you.

[Kornerking]

The 1/4" would work for most of the cutting but every unit requires a # of 5mm (1/8 in) holes for assembly. While we could continue to do them manually, ATC would be best. Can this be done as an add on later?

I am calculating a 15 to 18 minute labor savings per module over current system. At this rate payback would be under a year for the machine. Just for the Kornerking portion and not counting kitchens.

Mike, how do I go about buying plans?

For those who want to know, this is our product. http://www.kornerking.com/default.asp

Darren mentioned my annual warning. 6 years ago I tangled with some 480 3ph power and it won the first round. So every year I post this picture to advice peeps to slow down and be safe. These were my hands.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_0nlIwnb6XA/Um_quOQ-p6I/AAAAAAAAPIE/FnhBm9u8WqU/w957-h651-no/burncenter+004.jpg

[darren salyer]

Don't forget while this employee is cutting, the other one is freed up to do other tasks.
Here is a link to the plans.
Poke around the site, his other offerings are good for a guy on a time crunch.
http://www.cvsupply.com/servlet/the-19/MechMate-PDF-Plans/Detail

[Kornerking]

A couple of questions.

3 phase... any advantage on motors?

Vacuum... I have a 10 hp Torit dust collector collecting dust. Would this create the suction I would need?

[darren salyer]

No benefit to three phase I'm aware of, unless for a vacuum pump.
My MM is actually 110v. The vacuum for the hold down is 220v.
Doubtful the Torit would work for vacuum, but I could be wrong.

[pblackburn]

Pete,

I saw a guy do that (our group leader) but the entrance and exit was in the same hand. It blew a hole out the side about 3" round. He was unfortunate enough to go phase to phase and got the full 480V and not phase to ground 277V (Wye system). I am an electrician (elect-mechinical tech.) and I will be the first to tell you that 'Electricity is not dangerous, it is the people who play with electricity that are dangerous'. If you play with it, it is not a matter of if but when. If you are lucky, you can tell people about it. It has no desire to stray from where is it at, so LET IT ALONE.

I have a similar picture in my toolbox at work. I used a 1.125" end mill to mill out some Teflon. I blocked line of sight of the cutter to feel for a seam and it bit me. Luckily it only chopped off the fingernail and part of the bone. Split the bone in two lengthwise. The other saving grace was it was just shut off and was spinning down. And NO my finger did not stop the endmill. The bad part is I was told time and time again, NEVER BLOCK LINE OF SIGHT OF THE CUTTER. It was not the end mill or the mill's fault. It was mine but to remind myself and other new people, I have it in my toolbox. And the little white stuff sticking out of the scab in not Teflon, it is a nerve. So don't try to remove what you think is a piece of Teflon that the hospital missed with your handy multi-tool. IT HURTS ;)

[Kornerking]

Plans are ordered.

[darren salyer]

Awesome Pete!!
Welcome to the madness....
Mike....wheres my commission???? :D

[pblackburn]

In response to post 13. If you want serious hold down, a roots blower is where it is at and you will need 3 phase for it. You just can't beat the driving force of a 120° field. You would be able to create suction through MDF undrilled. A large enough blower will just collapse it. But you will also have a lot of $$$ in it also.

You can build anything to your liking. If you are good with a computer, you can controller solenoids to open only the ports needed to hold the smallest parts through a little application building. Combine that with a machine and you have something. If you are always cutting the same product you can use a layout that will match your parts. You can use manual ball valves, removable sections that attach or recess into your spoilboard or just a plain vacuum box in you are only using small parts. Add level sensing to maintain a constant vacuum while varying the speed of the motor. Save money and energy.

Darren has built a very functional hold down system based on the one build from the shopbot forum. It has rendered him good results. Refer to his thread for more information.

The big thing is it is your build and design. We will all offer you advice, help and opinions along the way but in the end.....it is your build and decision. I was always told to listen to everyone, even the dull and ignorant have their story. The best ideas I have found have been a combination of many combined into one result.

The Torit dust collector. Keep it for its designed purpose, collecting dust.

[Kornerking]

Thanks Pete. Early stages and asking questions. While money is always important, doing it right is more important. Whether final # comes in at 7500 0r 12500 it is function I will be looking for. We primarily use 5x5 stock so Darrens suggestion of a 5 x 12- 2 zone machine makes a lot of sense.

In addition to cutting out sheet goods, I would hope to utilize it to cut our 45deg dovetail joints for our pie cut drawers. This will entail a fixture mounted near the edge of the machine . I was excited to read in another thread that normal travel is 2" beyond the edge of the table. Then to design it with enough up and down movement (Z?) to accomplish this. We currently purchase about 200 of these each month so it would payback well.

Our building is equipped with 3 phase. Many of our machines run on 3 phase. That is why I was asking earlier on the motors.

We have considered (and may still) hiring the instrumentation done. I have kind of come to the conclusion that it is something we should get comfortable with. We may want to build other cnc applications in the future. If we can figure out the mechanics one area would be an automated finishing where the heads travel a pre programmed route. It would need to be an open centered framework where the product travels through. Again we do a lot of the same pieces so about 10 routes would do it. Just dreaming maybe.

Got the plans today and have barely got into them. I see a trip to Darrens in the near future. Only 12-13 hour drive but it would be worth it.

[pblackburn]

While 3 phase will not save you much with the electronics end as it is all low voltage, it will definitely help with the cost and efficiencies in any 3 phase motors and VFDs you implement into the upcoming project(s). I would assume you have a more than adequate capacity to add another drop off of your current dust collector. A trip will help in a lot of ways but reading, studying and developing an action plan is worth its weight in gold. You are in business so I am not telling you anything you already don't know but sometimes it is good to have things reiterated. Enjoy this, it is a great time and an experience you will build from.

[Mrayhursh]

Korner King
How are your hands now. I remember when I was a kid I froze my hands. Had frost bite for several weeks. My hands peeled and blistered but that in no way compares to your issue. Ouch!!

[Kornerking]

Korner King
How are your hands now. I remember when I was a kid I froze my hands. Had frost bite for several weeks. My hands peeled and blistered but that in no way compares to your issue. Ouch!!

After six years the skin grafts are getting thicker. It takes more of a scrape to make them bleed. I do have 95% mobility. Granted some of the stiffness may be from being 60.:)

[darren salyer]

Pete, for your dovetails I would build a 3-4" raised area that would clamp to the end of your spoilboard, and merely add a couple inches to your main beams on that end. That would eliminate any z issues, and a nicely constructed dovetail torsion box assembly would allow you to index your parts, enhancing through put of materials.
Bring me a couple KKs when you come visit.

[darren salyer]

Pete, get a binder, put the plans in it, and as you find ideas or answers in other threads, bookmark them, and then print a hardcopy to put in the binder.
Don't trust that you'll be able to find it back later.
Bet this tip would have shaved 20-30 hours off my build had I known it.

[Kornerking]

Pete, get a binder, put the plans in it, and as you find ideas or answers in other threads, bookmark them, and then print a hardcopy to put in the binder.
Don't trust that you'll be able to find it back later.
Bet this tip would have shaved 20-30 hours off my build had I known it.


I been bookmarking like crazy.

[Kornerking]

Pete, for your dovetails I would build a 3-4" raised area that would clamp to the end of your spoilboard, and merely add a couple inches to your main beams on that end. That would eliminate any z issues, and a nicely constructed dovetail torsion box assembly would allow you to index your parts, enhancing through put of materials.
Bring me a couple KKs when you come visit.

Trip is paid for.:D

[pblackburn]

The beauty of Gerald's design is its ability to be shaped and molded to fit your needs. Read many threads. I still find myself reading and mine is complete. But I will still modify and build upon others suggestions. I am hoping the next build (if I do one) will be even more robust than this one. Read, study and have fun.

[Kornerking]

Darren and Pete (or anyone else).Is there an issue if I take one of my posts in this thread and add the links to pages as I find them? Kind of a catch all post.

On a side note my #1 son (Tony Mai)is now lurking on here as well. He will be instrumental in getting it done so He figured 2 heads on this are better than one.

[pblackburn]

You can only edit a post for several minutes after it is made. I have a lot of spelling errors I wish I could correct but they are locked down. About the best I know you can do is to email yourself the links to later use them. Mike (Metalhead) may be able to help you out. Send him a PM.

[Kornerking]

Dang. Thanks fer the heads up though Pete.

[darren salyer]

Where's the progress report, Pete?

[Kornerking]

Ya I know, still reading. Confused as heck, but still reading.

[Tom Ayres]

It'll come to ya. And when it does, the light bulb will go on in your head.

[darren salyer]

Just like Tom says.
Don't worry about understanding it 100% up front.
I didn't, as evidenced by my build thread.
The more you get behind you, the easier the rest becomes.

[Kornerking]

Looks like middle of January I should be able to get a good start on this. (hopefully). Heavy production going on right now and a home show coming up between Christmas and New years.

A key element in this will be the ability to create my chevron dovetail drawers. Based on this years usage I should save way more than the cost of the machine in less than a year. Then I need to install a lazer head on it for engraving. Has anyone done this?

Trying to get the reading and research done up so I don't ask too many dumb questions.

[pblackburn]

The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. We all need help at times.

[pblackburn]

Here is some information

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1929&highlight=laser+engraving

[KenC]

Once you get started, everything will fall in place. If it doesn't we will make sure they do :)

[Kornerking]

Thanks for the help.

This is why a laser is important to me. We logo all of our drawers and like the clarity of a laser.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pkq5zN8Ixt8/UqNaJPwLdHI/AAAAAAAAPzM/8ipbJPTpDxU/w447-h793-no/IMG_20131207_112534_043.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gUtrM1vjB-U/UqNZ15ZeVYI/AAAAAAAAPy0/4C4xofNJltE/w927-h523-no/IMG_20131207_112429_766.jpg

[Kornerking]

Trying to make sense of this.

If I order the kits from CVS : RB01, Basic control box, 4 motors and power supply, Is this what I need to wire it up or are there additional items such as the Geckos, etc?

[darren salyer]

Copied from Metalheads electric kits post:

If your looking for Electic Parts, review this thread and shoot me a PM. I have Motors, PS , Basic Electric Kits, Remotes, PMDX and Driver boards.

The BC01,GB01,RB01 is $1249.12 delivered in the lower 48 states.

MC01 - 4-640 oz Motors and 1 Matched power supply $595.00 delivered in the lower 48 states.


You would still need to get the flexible wire from him to wire everything up.

[darren salyer]

BTW, you're post on the other forum about buying a separate laser is spot on.
Trying to make the MM do too much makes it like a shopsmith.....does a lot of stuff but none of it as well as it could.

[Kornerking]

Thanks Darren. Sent a pm to Metalhead. Not all of it is listed on the CVS site so I was confused.

How is the end of January looking for you if I make a quick trip down?

[darren salyer]

Anytime, Pete.
I agree Mikes stuff can be a little confusing. Some CVSsupply website work would probably help sales....(Hint...)
Give me a few days notice and we're on, but you shouldn't feel like the trip is necessary to achieving a working MM...

[darren salyer]

Had a nice visit with Pete this afternoon.
V-carved his logo into a piece of 1/2" BB plywood.
Hopefully he'll be along to post some of the pics he took after he gets back home from vacation.

[Kornerking]

Vacation is over. :mad:

Great visiting with you and your Bride, Darren. Haven't uploaded the pics yet. Showed them off while in Wichita. We ended cutting across and staying at the Lodge of the 4 seasons in Lake Ozark for a couple of days.

Darren was the perfect teacher. I don't understand though how he keeps his woodshop so clean.

Getting closer.

[darren salyer]

Hmmm, guy drives 12 hours to check out my MM, I MAY have straightened up a little and ran a broom around.

[Kornerking]

Darren and Pete.

I am the young guy with the tape measure.

He cut this out for me. Kool.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uzu6k27Sz6w/UwZf3DmUW9I/AAAAAAAAAzs/3GEI6y-wdck/w927-h696-no/Darren.JPG

[smreish]

Make sure you move that picture to the MUGshot thread....that is great.
- yep, really clean shop!

[Alan_c]

The Korner King and the Basement King :D

[darren salyer]

I love it!!

[darren salyer]

Whats the word, Pete?

[Kornerking]

Well it's now 2 years later and looks like it's time to get back at this.
I bought the electronics and bent parts from Darren Sayler over a year ago and promptly got swamped. Then I started building ukuleles. Seeing more need for this machine.

Primary payback will be doing the 45deg dovetail drawers. Our current supplier is backlogged 4-5 weeks and we just can't wait that long.
Maybe this time.

[servant74]

Thanks for the help.

This is why a laser is important to me. We logo all of our drawers and like the clarity of a laser.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pkq5zN8Ixt8/UqNaJPwLdHI/AAAAAAAAPzM/8ipbJPTpDxU/w447-h793-no/IMG_20131207_112534_043.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gUtrM1vjB-U/UqNZ15ZeVYI/AAAAAAAAPy0/4C4xofNJltE/w927-h523-no/IMG_20131207_112429_766.jpg
Going back through this thread, the pix are missing. That is the best reason to actually upload the pix and not just reference them elsewhere. Oh well.

[Kornerking]

I will try harder this time.
Sorry.

[servant74]

Not trying to pointing figures, but trying to kindly point it out. We all keep learning.

[Kornerking]

I know that. Just my attempt at humor.

Does the concept of building the gantry and getting it working first still hold true? Sounds like a good way to go.

[lonestaral]

Welcome back.
I built the table first then used it as a workbench.
Then again I did not have a workbench or a lot of room to work in.:D

[Kornerking]

Question?What is Mikes website for ordering kits?

[MetalHead]

Www.cvsupply.com or just PM me and I will send you an invoice

[Kornerking]

Ha. Just found it.
I need to compare what I already have and then get the rest.
Need motors and power supply for sure.

[darren salyer]

Welcome back, knucklehead!
I may have to add a second gantry to mine. Retirement isn't working out so well.

[Kornerking]

I may need to come visit you again.

Just a warning.

[darren salyer]

Anytime.
Mid January I'll have a BlackTooth Laser added to the arsenal.

[Kornerking]

Is that the reason for the second gantry?

[darren salyer]

No.

[Kornerking]

Is it free standing then?

[Kornerking]

Opinions needed.
Wirefeed welder versus arc.
Any reason one is superior?

Getting ready to buy. Looking at a Hobart
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200479230_200479230?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Welding%20%3E%20Wirefeed%20Welding&utm_campaign=Hobart&utm_content=20860&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=20860&gclid=Cj0KEQiAkIWzBRDK1ayo-Yjt38wBEiQAi7NnP8fC1n9C8Bf05dbV0Pi0RhKeMbUGHFJ456N DEeIDPRwaAhmC8P8HAQ

[darren salyer]

I used a stick welder for the base table and gantry, and a wire feed MIG for the Y. car.

The blackTooth is a stand alone machine.

[smreish]

That welder you linked to is actually a very good welder for the price. Additionally, you can get spool gun for it and weld aluminum as well.

Good luck

[Kornerking]

Question.
I have a large supply (200 ft) of heavy wall 2 and 3" pipe. Am I being pennywise and pound foolish to consider using it for the base structure?

[MetalHead]

That Hobart is a nice machine.

https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/r1021572-no-name

This is a nice welder also. I have a 185 (older Version) and I added a spool gun (for aluminum welding) .

Miller and Hobart are owned by the same company since 1996

http://www.hobartbrothers.com/about-us/history-of-hobart.html

So a lot of cross brand (Think Chevy vs Cadillac)

You should invest in the most welder you think you will need. Not just for the MM build.

I have a 252 and it does all I ask it to do.

https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/millermatic-252

[darren salyer]

Round pipe for the legs and cross bearers are fine

[Kornerking]

Ordered my welder. Getting the Hobart.

Motors next.

[darren salyer]

Make me proud Pete.

[Kornerking]

Yes

I can get started on my tabletop project. Transformer and steppers are here. I will finally be able to put the parts I got from Darren Sayler to use.

[darren salyer]

EXCELLENT!!
Remember, you eat an elephant a bite at a time.....
You'll never find the perfect time to build it, so stay on it and break it down into manageable steps you can steal a few minutes a day to complete.

[Kornerking]

Tony and I spent a couple hours tonight looking at Geckos and such as well as your electric box. .
The antek transformer I received did not have the 2 orange wires yours show, or their website shows , so I need to call them for input. Unless someone here cares to elaborate.

[MetalHead]

Those are for secondary power.

The power supply I sent you does not have secondary power winding on it.

What are you trying to power?

The PMDX-126 uses the 115v input power and the Geckos use the primary output voltage from the power supply through PMDX-134 (or PMDX-133) board.

If you are going the Smooth Stepper route, You should mount it on the PMDX-126 as a daughter board and take power off of it. This simplifies the wiring and saves space in the box. Also, if you plan to use a spindle in the future, go ahead and mount a PMDX-107 board on the PMDX-126 as shown.

This consolidation is just some of the ways as builds progress we continue to refine and simplify builds.

[Kornerking]

Thanks Mike.
Ok. One bite down. Now to digest it.
Dang glad Tony (my son) is along for the ride.

[Kornerking]

Lesson 1.
Dig deeper for solutions.
Just because Darren has orange wires doesn't mean I need them.

[Kornerking]

Bent parts inventory. This is from a kit i bought from Darren a while back so needed to see if it was all there. Almost. Missing the idler plate m130 332.
And had some extra parts.


Extra parts

[servant74]

The image is not displaying. It is getting a getting a 403. Basically display is being denied from your google user account.

You may be able to see it, but it is denied to the rest of us.

[Kornerking]

OOPS, to late to edit it.

Here they are smaller.

[servant74]

Looks good! Much better to view!

[Kornerking]

It's like my birthday every day as I open these packages.

[darren salyer]

Wish I would have kept it all now.

Oh well.

[Kornerking]

What are those pieces in the bottom picture?

[darren salyer]

proximity sensor mounts/travel stops.

[MetalHead]

Stop Blocks

The one without the holes is for the Y axis since it usually has some adjusting needed per build.

[Kornerking]

Getting ready to pick up the steel. In determining final size I need to concern myself with moving it from the assembly area to its working area. The final bottleneck is 72 wide x 84 tall. I am looking to do a table that is 61 x 97. That makes it 78 wide for the base. 61 + 17 inches.

Now I can leave the gantry off and turn it on its side and move it in using the 84" height with 6" to spare.

My question, am I missing something that will add to the width>

[islaww]

Maybe the piano dollies you have it sitting on? (Don't ask how I know that one!)

[Kornerking]

Yup.
Need those.
Thanks.

[dbinokc]

It sounds like you are welding the cross members. Why not make those bolt on. Once the basic assembly is completed you could pull it apart and reassemble at the final location.

[Kornerking]

But...
But......
That would make sense.
Sheez.

[Kornerking]

Been thinking on the bolted concept.
My main usage for this is dovetailing my 45 deg corner drawers. The fixture for it will need to be incorporated and bolted on as well. Very doable.

[hflwaterski]

I know I have the longest build in history and it's still not done, however one of the better decisions I made was to have the cross member support board holes drilled by a local machine shop. Now my cross members are 100% interchangeable and I don't have to number them to get them back in the same locations. I did the drilling myself on the long beams so if I take it down and move it, I would have to number them to get the support board back on without issue. In hindsight, I probably should have had that drilled by them as well but 1 out of 2 isn't bad. Good luck!

[Kornerking]

Famous last words.

We have a fair amount of history in making interchangeable parts. Proof will be in the pudding though.

Thanks for the input. Just how long have you been at it?

[hflwaterski]

It's embarrassing to admit but I received my first parts in 2008. Quite a few years of no progress at all for various reasons but I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

[Kornerking]

Gulp.

[Kornerking]

This bolted machine is making more sense. I can take the sub assemblies into my spray booth for finishing.

[Kornerking]

Question?
Has anyone used a metal cutting blade on a tablesaw to cut the angle on the rails?

Old woodworker habits die hard.

[Fox]

You have this special blades which supposedly work fairly ok. But's it's kind of a converting a knife to be a fork, it kinda works ( speed too high, torque too low etc)
I would ask a metal shop or buddy with a metal bandsaw or grind them by hand ( non critical angle anyways) If you use a piece of flat bar to guide your handheld angle grinder you'll be surprised how accurate you can cut.

[Kornerking]

I have the skate setup, just curious as I also have a large tablesaw.

Stop trying to re invent the wheel Pete.

[darren salyer]

I have a large tablesaw too Pete.
Stop trying to reinvent the wheel.

[Kornerking]

Echo in here.

[Fox]

misread in my haste, thought you were talking angle main beams. Yes use the grinder skate, or buy them. Nothing else really works as well.

[smreish]

JR, Myself and Gerald were the Guinea Pigs, use the skate as designed. Works beautifully. For best results, follow the grinding thread, but in short summary.

- cut to proper height with Narrow Kerf SS Grinding disk.
- use grinder disk to surface height prepare the FLAT surface first.
- use 36" grit sand disk on-top-of grind disk to knock down the majority of the chamfer 45 degree grind.
- finish with grinder disk for final passes.

[Kornerking]

Grinding skate . Check
Studying up on the wiring today. Any consensus as to which is best for the motors, uni polor or bi polor? Or does it depend more on the application?

Feb 1 the build starts. Clearing the schedule to allow for an initial week of uninterrupted time to get our heads around it. I'm driving Tony crazy with how we want to lay out the work.

[Nikonauts]

I know I have the longest build in history and it's still not done, however one of the better decisions I made was to have the cross member support board holes drilled by a local machine shop. Now my cross members are 100% interchangeable and I don't have to number them to get them back in the same locations. I did the drilling myself on the long beams so if I take it down and move it, I would have to number them to get the support board back on without issue. In hindsight, I probably should have had that drilled by them as well but 1 out of 2 isn't bad. Good luck!

If my build resume next week (or the week after that) I will break your record!

Started gathering stuffs since late 2007! :D

[Kornerking]

Spending for tools.
Just ordered the Evolution 15" chop saw.
I hope it works as good as the reviews claim.

[Kornerking]

Tony and I finally started in on the electrical today. Went well until we found the off switch was stuck closed.
I got the smoothstepper programmed into the computer.

It's a start.

[Tom Ayres]

Keep on keeping on! Give us a review of the Evolution when you've experienced it a bit.

[Kornerking]

Puzzled. When I programed in the ESS it assigned the Ethernet port to it so I can't use it for internet access.
Do I need to get a second ethernet port or is there a work around for this issue.

The Evo arrived yesterday. Looks solid and will try cutting with it today.

[CPAC_CNC]

We have a Northern Tools 14" dry cutter that we love. It's really amazing, both in the cut quality and ear ringing sound with thin gauge tube.

Good ear protection is a must and we find that daily application of "Castrol 140 Stick-Wax Metal Working Lubricant" to the blade helps keep the blade sharp and the cut a little quieter.

The blades seems to keep cutting well after loosing many teeth, that is until you change the blade and are blown away by that new blade performance. You'll never go back to abrasive again.

For the ESS ethernet issue under windows you might try opening the network adapter properties, then selecting TCP/IP properties (IPv4), then clicking on the "alternate configuration" tab. Either add the IP address settings you need for the ESS there or add your network connection settings for the internets.

You can also get a USB to Ethernet dongle for ~$20.

[Kornerking]

Cpac. Got a chance to use it today and WOW. Fast smooth cuts. Going to love it I think.

Yes, i figured out on a usb connection. Going to office max. Meanwhile I just set up a second computer for researching.

[Kornerking]

Well we got it moving motors today.
Love the plug and play feature with the smoothstepper.
Here's a little video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qb-V0Qh3ycA

[Kornerking]

It may be time to switch to Construction Started.

[darren salyer]

Good job Pete.
Luckily there isn't a spot called: "It's about darned time Construction Started!" ��

[Kornerking]

Good job Pete.
Luckily there isn't a spot called: "It's about darned time Construction Started!" ��

HAHA. Hey Us older peeps take a little while. The clock has started.

[Kornerking]

Read the instructions Pete :o:o

Slave motor wouldn't move. I didn't have it slaved.

[Kornerking]

Dumb question. How much surface preparation did you do on your steel prior to weld-up? My bent parts are about 3 years old and have a little surface rust, thinking it might be easier to do it prior to welding.

[darren salyer]

i hit mine with a random orbit sander...just because.

[MetalHead]

3 rules of welding.

1. Clean
2. Clean
3. Clean

Hope this helps

:)

[Kornerking]

The welds are a no brainer. It was the flat surface preparation. May as well clean them up while they are accessible.
Got my dovetailing program created on cut2d this weekend and it runs in mach3. Once I do actual parts I will need to adjust tail length.
Picking up steel tomorrow. Rack and pinions are on the way as well as the balance of the kit from Mike.
Hopefully my new employee can start work by April 1.

[Kornerking]

Ok, I'm going bug eyed with reading and research.

Trying to find how to tune motors. Been to the gecko site, it's greek to me. I have the 203v geckos . Motors are running very hot.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

[MetalHead]

You need your current limit resisters. Are you using the 134 board? Also what do you mean by hot?

[Kornerking]

133 board.

without a thermometer it is hard to tell. I wouldn't want to hold them very long. Is this normal?

[darren salyer]

Do you have current limiters in place?

[MetalHead]

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3561

Look at these pictures.

In the 133 manual here on page 5 number 9.

http://www.pmdx.com/Doc/PMDX-133_Manual_12.pdf

[MetalHead]

http://www.geckodrive.com/support/motor-control-manuals/stepper-drives/g203v-rev-7.html

CURRENT SET RESISTOR

TERMINAL 11 Current Set
Connect the current set resistor to this terminal

TERMINAL 12 Current Set
Connect the other end of the current set resistor to this terminal

This input matches the G203V’s current output to the motor windings. The G203V will accommodate motor winding currents from 0 to 7A. Use the following equation to calculate the value, (in kilo-Ohms) of the current set resistor:
R (in kilo-ohms) = 47 * I / (7 – I) Use the nearest standard value 5% tolerance, 1/4W resistor for this setting.

Here are the current set resistor values for motor current in .5A increments. Round the appropriate answer to the nearest 5% resistor value.

a. 1A – 7.8K
b. 1.5A – 12.8K
c. 2A – 18.8K
d. 2.5A – 26.1K
e. 3A – 35.25K
f. 3.5A – 47K
g. 4A – 62.67K
h. 4.5A – 84.6K
i. 5A – 117.5K
j. 5.5A – 172.33K
k. 6A – 282K
l. 6.5A – 611K
m. 7A – OPEN


MAKE SURE YOUR RESISTOR IS REALLY THE CORRECT SIZE !!

Sometimes you will get the wrong resistor ie 282ohms or 2.83Meg instead of 282K for example.

[Kornerking]

Thanks Mike.
Ok. So there is a master resistor on the 133 already. I now need to add an individual one for each gecko, correct?

Is this what I should be looking at?http://www.geckodrive.com/resistor-pack.html

[Kornerking]

Major Success.

Lightbulb came on and realized what we needed to do for the resistors. As an added bonus we had a large selection (1000 or more ) from Digikey that we got at an auction sale a few years ago. Almost threw them away last fall. Anyway the resistors we needed were in the selection. Motors are totally cold now.

Only issue is the x axis motors are turning twice the speed of the y & Z motors in jog mode. I'm sure that too will be resolved.

[servant74]

Just be warned, (from personal experience) if the motors get to hot, they may freeze once they cool never to move again. It cost me purchasing a new set of motors to learn that one, I hope you don't learn it the same way.

[Kornerking]

Just be warned, (from personal experience) if the motors get to hot, they may freeze once they cool never to move again. It cost me purchasing a new set of motors to learn that one, I hope you don't learn it the same way.

Thanks.
They are turning nice and staying cool. The resistors seem to have done the trick.

[Kornerking]

Trying to identify this part that came in my supplies from Darren Sayler.

Looks like a router holder for the z slide. If it is how do I know if it is the right one for the Milwaukee?

[Kornerking]

And another question.
Is there an advantage or disadvantage wiring the motors straight to the gecko (134) versus going through a dinblock? I have the dinblocks but is it just another potential fail point?

[Nikonauts]

Trying to identify this part that came in my supplies from Darren Sayler.

Looks like a router holder for the z slide. If it is how do I know if it is the right one for the Milwaukee?

Just make sure the OD of the router match the ID of the bracket.

Routers are made to a certain preferred diameter... because they're used in conjuctions with other accessories/fittings. And the diameter is published somewhere as it is a very important spec, most important after the motor wattage and max shank size.

[Tom Ayres]

You know they say that size matters...

[Kornerking]

Thanks Tom. I figured that was the case and after posting I did even more research and found out it was but couldn't delete the post. And if it doesn't fit the Milwaukee I found several good options.
Sometimes it's not the size that matters but how well you can operate it.

[Kornerking]

Hey all you Milwaukee 5625 router owners. Care to share the OD of the motor? I have googled to try and find it but no success.

On a side note just received notification my laser machine is shipping from Melbourne today. Now I will be able to logo our products in house instead of having it done outside.

Exciting times here at Kornerking.

[darren salyer]

looks identical to my milwaukee holder. I'll measure soon as I get back to shop.

[darren salyer]

My cheapo dial caliper says 4.158

[darren salyer]

30 seconds with Google netted me 4.125....

[Kornerking]

It's a match. Thanks #101
One less item to search out.
I sure am glad I bought that kit from you.
Steel comes in tomorrow and we can get flying.

[Nikonauts]

This link (http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/power-tools-and-machinery/milwaukee-5625-router-question) says it's 4.125 (measured by caliper).



edit :

Sorry, didn't read till the end before replying.
Have fun welding the laser cut parts.

[Kornerking]

Thanks for the link Nikonauts. One more small step in the Mechmate saga.
It's getting pretty simple to find the information needed what with all of the links and pictures. That footpath that Gerald laid down is becoming a super highway for those of us now following.

[Kornerking]

Me again.
I ordered my angle for the rails in a 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 configuration planning on cutting it down. Today I saw this quote from Gerald in 2008.

Having said all that, I am comfortable with people wanting to use 1.5" tall rails. But I am nervous of the confusion another set of optional drawings will cause - especially when:
- there is an easy alu / V-Cap option available
- 2.5 x 1.5 angle is not that commonly available
- cutting rails down is not that difficult.


The question then becomes if I use the 1 1/2 as is do I need to modify motor mounts?

Second question. I called out for uncut 240" stock but they did like every thing else and cut it in half. 120". This is about what my final length will be but I know I need additional for grinding. I'm thinking I should be able to tack on extensions on each end and then cut to size after they are ground. Am I off base on this?

[smreish]

Pete,
The difference you are going to see is you may not be able to use the larger pinion sizes (35T) and be stuck with a 20T pinion and the motor will hang at an more extreme tilted angle. Additionally, the smaller pinion will affect the top end speed of the machine. If you are using 3:1 gearing or 3.6:1 geared motors - Not a big deal. The 7.2;1 Geared motors will want that 30-35T pinion for good jog speeds.

On the steel Leg height. Ultimately, you are going to loose about 1/16 +/- preparing the stock leg of the angle before you start the VEE grind for a verified uniform rolling surface. This is important due to the fact that the grind skate is a top referenced grind and important to have datum to start from that is near perfect.

In the end, the finished height is close to expected in the plans with you steel choice.

[Kornerking]

Sean, thanks for the advice.
So you are saying it would be wisest to cut it to the 1.1 inch height then.
Correct?

[Kornerking]

The obligatory picture of the Mechmate in the rough.

Cutting starts today. Finally.Need to put on a hard push for a few days as we have another monster order coming through today. I want to get it to the point where most of the 2 man work is done. Then one of us can go back into production.

[Kornerking]

Day 1 is over and the steel is cut up. Loving the revolution cold cut saw.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp3nl5xqgXs

Found a simple way to get those exacting cuts. We use a Tigerstop cutoff saw in our shop so I just cut a blank the length I needed and clamped it to the steel.

[Nikonauts]

Assuming that the rectangle tube is for the gantry, Gerald advised in the drawing that the 2 tubes be clamped together and cut on chopsaw in tandem.

Not that I'm saying you're doing it wrong. Often there are more than 1 correct way to do things.

How does the length of your 2 tubes matching with each other?

and too bad Revolution cold cut saw is not available here. But Bosch and Makita also sell cold cut saw nowadays, very pricey though.

[Kornerking]

I missed the part about clamping them together but the Tubes are dead nuts on.

Yes the saw is a few bucks more but I like the time it saves. My helper costs me $30.00 an hour so I need to make him productive.

[darren salyer]

$30/hr. in Big Falls? Holy Cow Mr. Rockefeller....

[Kornerking]

$30/hr. in Big Falls? Holy Cow Mr. Rockefeller....
Ya git what ya pay for. 19 years he has been with me.

[Kornerking]

15524

15525Well things progressed a bit today. Only one owwy.

Tomorrow we will turn it over. Just a few uprights and braces to install.

[Kornerking]

Here's the booboo.

[darren salyer]

Sounds like you are making smooth progress.

[MetalHead]

Ouch !!! Your progress is looking great. I gotta git me one of those saws .....

[servant74]

Now you have the required sacrificial blood dripped for a MM build <grin> ... Now the rest goes safely!

[Kornerking]

Good mornings work. Got the beast turned over, gantry welded, and starting to cut down the rails.

Used a skyhook mounted to a beam ahead. Worked pretty slick.

For the rail cutting I mounted 2 blocks to the skate. Lots of balance

[darren salyer]

Get some diagonal bracing in there Petey.

[Kornerking]

Nobody told me this was a dirty job. Sheez.

Finished out the day getting the y car welded.

Got all 4 of the rails cut to size. Ready to assemble the skate and shape them.
Had to keep water handy to water down my sliders on the jig. It worked well though. About 3 hours to cut them all.

Yes Darren, the frame is getting bracing. Tony worked on that this afternoon. We rushed the turnover so we had a work surface.

Time for a shower and an adult beverage.

[lonestaral]

Welcome to the Black Hand Gang.

[Kornerking]

Well, got the skate together and the rails cut. Tony got the panel box cut out for the heat sink and the geckos laid out.
Coming along nicely.

[Kornerking]

OOPS!!!
I just found out I left the flat on the rails wide. I was sure I read .1 wide now I see the plans say .04 wide. Easy to fix on the y rails. They are still full length.

The x rails are a different animal. I have cut them to length. Will I survive with the .1 width or do I need to tack the ends back on and skinny them up?

Any advice?

[dbinokc]

I am not sure if .1 is okay or not. You probably will need to see if how the roller rides. If it looks like it will not work, you could knock down what you can with the grinder and then take a file to the remainder.

[smreish]

The challenge you may find is that the vee rollers dont seat deep enough and allow for your pinion engagement or motor plate to swing clear. If you cut them to the correct height, you may be okay.

[Kornerking]

The rails were cut to 1.1 inches tall. (Ha.... just figured out where I got .1 stuck in my mind.)

By tomorrow when I can get back on it I will have a solution. Hopefully.

[Kornerking]

Minnie steppers.
Building the Mechmate has helped me to understand these motors. These are for the laser machine we got in this week. Sucker is working pretty good. Now I will be able to logo the parts I make on MM.

I sure wish the orders would slow down for a couple of weeks. They are taking away from build time.

[Kornerking]

Well a little more progress. Most of the components have arrived. Cable chain, air shock, motor springs, etc
Should be able to hit the spray booth for painting this week. Primer and paint should be here by mid week.
And we got some motion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clM-g_nIdBA

[dbinokc]

Looking good. You will be done before you know it.

[Kornerking]

Still shooting for April 1. I need that new employee.

[darren salyer]

Nice work Pete.

[Kornerking]

Well Tony got the transmissions welded up today. Getting a little closer.

Question? How did you prepare the metal for painting? Is mineral spirits to clean it sufficient?

[dbinokc]

When I initially bought my steel, I just cleaned with a pressure washer. When it came time to paint I put some grey rustoleum on it and then the regular blue paint. All from spay cans. It may not be the smoothest paint job, but it is still sticking.

The only part where where I did a very thorough cleaning was where I mounted the VHB tape for mounting the racks. I ground off the surface scale and cleaned with acetone.

[Kornerking]

Thanks DB. Some of what I used was old steel so we will be sandblasting that. Then a cleanse of mineral spirits.

Did you mount your racks prior to painting?

[dbinokc]

The racks were mounted after painting. I masked off the underside of my rails to keep any paint off. I also masked off the ground part of rails as well so I would have to scrape paint off afterwards

[smreish]

...same as DB did. VHB tape directly to RAW clean steel. I often use SIMPLE GREEN as a degreaser and cleaner.

[Fox]

Mineral spirits are slightly greasy themselves..better using alcohol or thinner.

[Kornerking]

Thanks for the input Fox. Wood I know just what to do, metal not so much.

[Kornerking]

Our paint arrived today.

[Alan_c]

Better get your camera checked, that blue looks gold??!! :D

[Kornerking]

Ya, I know.
But it is a blue gold.:)
Company colors.

[MarkRH]

Would be interesting to use a wood graining kit over that color

[Kornerking]

I pondered that Mark.
Wasn't sure how to accomplish it though.

[Kornerking]

I set up a radial arm saw with a grinding disk to cut the z slide. Worked pretty slick. It took about 35 minutes to grind it out.

Short video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbrBcUd9pvc

[Kornerking]

Got the beast into the spray booth and primed and painted. It went pretty well having it suspended.

Only 2 issues. I didn't order enough for everything. Probably won't have it for 3 days.
The paint has a metallic flec to it and it plugs the tip on my Kremlin gun. Frustrating.

At least I can get the big piece out of the booth. It goes in on it's side so I don't want to do it twice.

[Tom Ayres]

Rock-n-Roll!:cool:

[MetalHead]

Cool on the Z grind!! I think that method is a first. What grit was that wheel and what kind of saw is that?

[Kornerking]

That is an old radial arm saw with a tilting arbor. Sears Craftsman brand.
I set a fence to slide against, at a slight angle to the grinding disc, so the leading edge cut. The cutter is just a 4 1/2 grinding wheel.
Need still pics?

[Kornerking]

Well we needed to get the beast back on it's 4 legs. It came out of the spray booth on it's side. Tony refused to climb the ladder and install a sky hook in our 20 ft high ceiling. ( Sheez, kids now days)

So after a little head scratching we put a plank across a doorway and used come alongs and a floor jack to gently lower it down.

[Kornerking]

Our steel company is offering 29% off all orders today. http://campaign.r20.constantcontact.com/render?ca=446357b0-5c51-42a3-9408-8cdf61587bda&c=1b8003a0-d581-11e5-abd2-d4ae527536ce&ch=1b9ba1f0-d581-11e5-abd2-d4ae527536ce

I should order for a second machine. I did order for a different application. We are installing a loader and unloader above the Mechmate so I ordered up for the gantry for it, and new forks for my skid steer. Oh, and steel for my new sander.

[darren salyer]

I'll be following your loader/unloader progress with interest.

[Kornerking]

It will have it's own vacuum motor to pick the plywood up. Hopefully enough suction to pick the processed parts up as well.

[Nikonauts]

Intriguing :) ... Keep the updates coming!

[Kornerking]

With the vacuum motor, winch, trolleys and steel I will have about a grand into it.
But it will make it so anyone can load and unload the machine. Even an old Fart like me.

[darren salyer]

I've got a Joes Woodworker vacuum pump, and a sliding door track off a commercial bldg.
Need a winch and vacuum pucks to be in bidness. The Lyme Disease makes me think this would be a good project.

[darren salyer]

I believe Gary Campbell, who is a member here, has a video of a DIY panel lift in operation...

[islaww]

Darren...
Sure do, but it doesn't have any good closups: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsFt-CMsbvs

[darren salyer]

Yep, thats the one that got me noodlin Gary.
I'm wondering how a sub $200 Harbor Freight hoist would work here...

[servant74]

A DIY solution is here: How-to-make-a-vacuum-powered-plywood-lifter (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-vacuum-powered-plywood-lifter-for-yo/)

[darren salyer]

Thanks Jack. Hopefully Pete benefits from my hijacking of his thread...

[Kornerking]

Hey, where did my thread go? Hehe.
No problem Darren.
That is very similar to what I am thinking. Main difference is I plan on a full 60 x60 vacuum surface so hopefully I will be able to unload and stack as well. It may be overkill.
Both ends of my machine will be tied up with dovetailing fixtures so the panel cutting will be in the middle. Everything up and over the sides.

[darren salyer]

Hmm, from my research, that may be difficult. It seems pucks are used to create a high vacuum per square inch of pod area. It may be difficult to achieve a strong vacuum over a whole sheet, especially with cutouts. That will reqquire huge CFMs.

[tonymai]

we got it all painted and started assembly this afternoon

[darren salyer]

Without pics, yada, yada....:)

[Kornerking]

Yada yada.
To busy building it to take pictures.

A few more bites of the elephant today.
Got all the rails on and level. Rollers on. Rides sweet and true.
Got the z slide together. Gas shock is in place. Tomorrow mount it and install motor.
Tony is getting the electronics installed in the box.
The thing that has amazed me to this point is that by taking small parts and building on it how it makes sense. When I first looked at the project I almost got overwhelmed.

[darren salyer]

Agreed. I felt the same way.

[Kornerking]

I went to the shop at 5:30 am this morning and found this elf working away. Tony is wanting to get this done.

Wiring day..

[Kornerking]

Had a great day today. Control box is wired up. Motors are installed. Router bracket is installed, with a special adjustment feature. Cable chain is on.

Only booboo today was the gas shock got installed a little off and hung up on the spider. A little swearing and we got it fixed.

Tomorrow we start to run wires.

Here is a short video of the machine to this point. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODlq7qKawy8

[darren salyer]

Awesome Pete. Is the gas shock installed with the big end at the top? If not it may fail prematurely.
Also, I noticed you were rolling machine with the motors engaged. Refrain from doing that after they are wired. I seem to remember someone saying they can act as generators and feed back into the controller.
Looking Awesome.

[Kornerking]

Thanks Darren.
Yes the shock has the big end up. Read the warnings on that.
If Tony has his way(he usually does) it will be cutting by our 1 month anniversary of starting to cut steel.

[darren salyer]

Awesome. Then the REAL fun begins.

[Tom Ayres]

Now that is really flying along! :D

[Kornerking]

Well we got most of the wiring done today. Shut down early to enjoy the spring weather and play a little music.
Here's what i came up with. The Farm Boy Blues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDrwULzaLTc

[Tom Ayres]

I hope there is/was something good in the glass...;)

[Kornerking]

I hope there is/was something good in the glass...;)

Ayup. Some fruit of the vine. It had been a full week and felt good to kick back and relax with my Bride of 45 years. That was her playing. Not sure about the singing.

Well looks to be a short run now to movement. All of the groundings are attached. 2 motors to do final connections on, 1 estop box, then connect into the main box again. Getting excited.

[Kornerking]

Tony got the motors and estops wired up today. Just need to connect the leads to the geckos and it should move.
About time.

[Kornerking]

YES!!!!!

First movement out of George this morning. All 4 motors moving with the jog command.

We need to calibrate the torque on the motors some more. Well maybe a bunch more.

27 days since we started cutting steel.

Here is a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6xEayjwU4c

[Kornerking]

A few hours later and we have it whipping along.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVhy58whO_c

[darren salyer]

Great job Pete.
You've spoiled the build time curve.

[Kornerking]

I have to give the credit to Tony the tiger. He has been impressive in this project.
He was the one who figured out that the resistor was a bit high. Went from a 39k to a 36k and George purred.

[Kornerking]

4 weeks ago today we started cutting steel. Today we started cutting wood. We spent a good part of the day calibrating the motor steps and leveling the z slide. We got the travel to within a 32nd on 90 inches of travel. Close enough at this point for what we cut. The trammel worked very well for us in leveling the router.
Any way it is time to move to the Senior circuit. " Mechmates already cutting"

Here is a video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGUttwvVWJE

As soon as the logos get here it will be stickered.

[MarkRH]

Nice job Pete and Tony, you made it look easy!

[Kornerking]

Thanks Mark.
We just kept it simple.
You're next.

[dbinokc]

Great job and amazing progress.

[Kornerking]

Thanks DB.
It has helped that we had 2 heads figuring things out. And the information needed is here on the forum.
Hopefully by the end of next week we are in production with George.

[technogod]

Looks awesome sir.Your grinding process on the rails is definitely a genius approach.

Enjoy your new money maker :)

[darren salyer]

So Pete, Mach 3 has a gadget whereby you put a measured set of marks the full length of your table, and tram your router point to point, and Mach 3 will calibrate to that exact distance.

1/32" over 90" is unacceptable on THIS forum, sir...:)

[Tom Ayres]

True Dat my brother :cool:

[Kornerking]

So Pete, Mach 3 has a gadget whereby you put a measured set of marks the full length of your table, and tram your router point to point, and Mach 3 will calibrate to that exact distance.

1/32" over 90" is unacceptable on THIS forum, sir...:)
Ha. Wood will expand and contract more than THAT overnight.
But pretend I am from Missouri. Show me.

Got the touch off working today. Now to set the laser cross hair.
Picking up the material for the table on Monday, then we can set the jigging for the dovetailing.

[Kornerking]

Looks awesome sir.Your grinding process on the rails is definitely a genius approach.

Enjoy your new money maker :)
Thanks. Cash machine. It should be paid back in a few months.

Tony is already planning for the next one.

[Kornerking]

Working on my dovetail joints today. They are fitting like a glove.
This is my main need for the mechmate. We need to do a 45 joint on our drawers and George should do it.

[Kornerking]

We got George moved to his permanent spot yesterday.
We will do the relevel today and start the ducting for the vacuum today and hang the control panel on the wall.
Shop is in mild disarray for a couple of days.

[Kornerking]

We will be working with 60 x 60 sheets of baltic birch so we built a machining area for it at 61 x 61. Surfaced it today so we can begin cutting.

Both ends of the table will have fixtures for doing our dovetails. Now I can use my surfaced area to cut the parts to build the jigs for that.

Awesome. At least to me.

Short video of George in action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0nRdjzaOUA

With our vacuum we wanted a non porous substrate so we glued formica to the surface. Hopefully it serves the purpose. Years of doing countertops gave us a supply of material. Looks purty as well.

[Kornerking]

Started making money with our mechmate today. Cut out parts for our Kornerking product on it. We got the vacuum system working for the holddown. No clamping or screwing needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqqKwtYLjIg

[danilom]

Great work Pete and if I may jump in, you acceleration looks too small. Something in a range of 200mm/sec or in inches 8-10 ips. Also if that end mill is in range of 6mm or 1/4" you can do plywood easy in just 2 passes. This accel might be needed for this beast Biesse 335 retrofit (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sRF84PJlrw) I done recently but he Mechmate is much lighter and can be much more maneuverable . Try bumping that accel to 20 or more (600mm/sec) and you may get away with cv on outer corners, that will improve your cut time significantly.

[darren salyer]

Looking great Pete.
Looks like you've been moved to the MM already cutting area.

[Kornerking]

Great work Pete and if I may jump in, you acceleration looks too small. Something in a range of 200mm/sec or in inches 8-10 ips. Also if that end mill is in range of 6mm or 1/4" you can do plywood easy in just 2 passes. This accel might be needed for this beast Biesse 335 retrofit (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sRF84PJlrw) I done recently but he Mechmate is much lighter and can be much more maneuverable . Try bumping that accel to 20 or more (600mm/sec) and you may get away with cv on outer corners, that will improve your cut time significantly.

Thanks for the advice Danilom. A lot to learn.

Question? What is the CV you speak of?

[Tom Ayres]

constant velocity

[Kornerking]

Thanks Tom. I checked out what it meant on Mach 3.
So much to learn yet.

[Kornerking]

Logos are now installed.
He sure looks pretty.

[hflwaterski]

Nice going Pete and Tony! Looks terrific and very official! It's diploma time! :)

[Kornerking]

We got our vacuum system set up. Built a filter box using a small filter sandwiched into a box.
Boy does it suck down.

[darren salyer]

Nice job, Pete.
Ready for a new build thread title yet? Something like " Thank you Darren for hounding me to get off my duff and get this thing done." :)

[darren salyer]

We could shorten it to "Thank you Darren!!" if you'd like.

[Kornerking]

Did the first full sample set of the dovetail on a 45 deg corner. George is amazing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a36Nj3SR9cU

[Kornerking]

Nice job, Pete.
Ready for a new build thread title yet? Something like " Thank you Darren for hounding me to get off my duff and get this thing done." :)

Works for me.:p