Runs Like a Deere #116 - Qld, AU

[F.A.B]

“Don’t you already have a CNC”
Yes dear..
Well why do you need another one?
I want a bigger, better one…
But why?
To see if I can make it work by myself (with lots of forum helpers / and a couple of good mates)
But why?
Because I’m a man, I have a shed and that is what we do in sheds to forget about the shit day we had at work.
My wife then went on to says I’m crazy, obsessed or maybe she said possessed. Don’t really know, I wasn’t listening, I was reading a forum post about belt drives.

So this is where I am at. I do have a cnc, a shark.. I got it about 2 years ago and am just loving what it can do. This is just all a hobby for me, I don’t know how many things I have done on the little shark but only one was a paying job. I do it, like many other blokes, for the relaxation. But I want to do more, much much more. But still mainly for the fun.

This is a great site and you ALL need to be proud of it.. One thing I haven’t found is a map of where the machines are. I found the build register, just thought a map would be cool to see them on a world map.
Current Idea is for a machine to handle a full sheet 2400 x 1200 with some room either on the x or y axis for an indexer. Nema34 motors with belt reducers (3.2:1) / 2.2kw water cooled spindle / vac table for the timber / mister for the aluminium / dust extractor / touch plate/ etc etc. the full Monty. Why? Well I think unlike the business people that want a good low cost functional machine to make money. Us hobby people (well at least me, shouldn’t speak for others) always over engineer, over spec and generally go over the top when we either buy or build a new toy. Why? Because we can, and I think there is a rule that says we must!

So the planning is underway, any help in way of component suppliers on Oz would be appreciate. I am in Emerald Central Queensland, where anything a little different is just not here and must be found online.

As I see it I have one main problem with this build, the mechanical side, cutting, welding and grinding no problem. But me and electronics are not good friends. (That is why I started with the plug and play shark). Maybe I just need to be introduced to a few circuit boards and a couple of power supplies, shake a few hands get to know each other and we will become the best of friends. I Live in hope! Even if electronics and myself don’t become friends, I am confident that you guys here we show me a way to work with them.

Now back to the note pad of plans.

Mich

[Tom Ayres]

Well if this is your introduction, Welcome! Mich I think you will find lots of support to get you through the electronics. I see nothing wrong with wanting all the bells and whistles for your machine, most of us get them in the end anyway. Well good luck and happy building.

[sailfl]

Mich

Welcome to the MM site. You will not be sorry that you picked a MM to build. You are ahead of the game for many that build one of these machines. I had no experience with working with steel or CNC. I had help building my table and the site helped with the controller box. I have a background in software so that part was easy.

Read and Read and Read the various post to understand. Find a number of builds that have been completed and learn from their success and mistakes.

Ask questions, you will find help.

You are crazy but it is a worth while crazy. When it is finished build some thing for your wife and she will think you are less crazy.

Good luck.

[KenC]

Mich,
Welcome! U came to the right place.
Just tell you wife, "Man needs toys to play to stay at home, love"

[lonestaral]

Welcome.
Mad , NO !
The word is "eccentric"
You are an eccentric.

Read a lot.
Read some more.
Decide what you want.
Read again.
Plot, read then build.
You will find all you need to know here, including eccentrics.:D

[darren salyer]

Welcome. I'm way more mechanically inclined, and I got through the electronics part with some hand holding. Jump in, do your research and it all unfolds in time.

[jhiggins7]

Mich,

Regarding your interest in seeing a Map of MechMate's, take a look at this POST (http://mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=37309&postcount=10). One of our members put the location of each MechMate Member on a Google Map. Gerald converted it to a KMZ file. If you have Google Earth on your computer, just double click the KMZ file in the post and Google Earth will load and all the locations of MechMate Members, worldwide, will be shown. You'll have to zoom in to see them. You can rotate the Google Earth map to see each country.

As far as I know, this map has not been updated since it was created in 2010.

[danilom]

You might order a prewired electronics from Mike (Metalhead) for starters and then figure it out the reverse way what's what and how stuff works.
Its fairly simple but it can take time.

[KenC]

Many of us are software, electronics & electrical handicapped, including me.
Some how, everyone become competent in all that is required & mysteriously, another MM is born... Its MAGICAL!!!

[Mrayhursh]

Hey, I thought that being crazy was part of being Australian. That is why American admire Australians. Sorta like merging Cowboys and the British and through in a Dingo.

[F.A.B]

Well thank you all for the welcome. I know that there is a lot of information here and in some respects there is too much. It makes my head hurt with so many options and variations. But I WILL get my head around it and have a cutting machine before Easter 2014. So the parts collecting has started for the table while I come up with a parts list for the electronics. I will be back for advice.

[David Bryant]

Hi Mich
Your wife could so relate to mine........

I am in Perth
PM if you want to chat.
Cheers
David

[darren salyer]

I don't think Mike offers a prewired kit, only the components to assemble a control box.

[KenC]

Don't be intimidated.There are 20~30 wires & most of them are repeated.

[servant74]

Welcome Mike. I have never heard of a sane person who wanted to be considered 'normal' anyway.

So welcome to a great crazy house where the average is above the norm :)

[F.A.B]

Well the card has been taking a bit of a hit this past week.
gecko 203v ordered
pmdx 126 ordered
laser kit underway
2.2kw spindle ordered
steel, motors and rollers to be confirmed.

Question. the only 6mm angle for the V tracks I can get locally is 75x50 is this going to be a problem?

[Mrayhursh]

I originally used 2x2 for all my rails. I guess I didn't read the plans close enough. After hearing the laughter from the peanut gallery. I order 2.5 x 2.5. But the steel yard was out of stock and told me to wait. Well, after going home and measuring the width of the x axis. I found that they were 2.5 inches wide. So I decided to use the 3 inch side laying flat would give me full coverage on the top of the x axis and give me the 1/2 inch I needed to mount the gear track. If you are using the skate that metal head sells you will notice that you luck out if you buy the 50 mm side as the rail. The flair at the front runs into the 2.5 inch high steel making it necessary to make two passes when you do your trimming. With the 50 x75 you do it with in one pass. I used 2.5 x 2.5 on my y axis because the tubes I used were 50x100x .180.
If you are going to ask about buying v groove rail take it from someone who did...don't waist your money. It has to be drilled and tapped. I would rather grind than drill and tap.

[F.A.B]

Thanks Hurshy I didn't see why the 75mm side laying flat would hurt on the x axis but will it hurt in the y axis (interfere with the Z carriage) I suppose I can always trim it back like I have to one the V side.

[Mrayhursh]

I will take a couple of pictures tomorrow and send them to you. Also, nothing says that it can be cut down too. Watch the edges they are razor sharp and hot. I have singed finger tips. Cuts on my shoulder and belly. I never knew I had then until I took a shower. If you have a file or flapper wheel (disk with overlapping folded sand paper). You can break the edge.

[Mrayhursh]

Here is a photo that a member posted.
http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag8/MikeH59/gantry_problem_zps16c99873.jpg (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/MikeH59/media/gantry_problem_zps16c99873.jpg.html)
The wider angle would just cover the x axis. By the way this guy should have setup and cut the y rail to length. So he can fix it by spacing it with washers.

http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag8/MikeH59/Yaxis_zpsaa398d68.jpg (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/MikeH59/media/Yaxis_zpsaa398d68.jpg.html)

looks like excess could rub inside of tray.
Oh on the y axis think able putting the 2 inch flat and cut the 3 inch.

[Mrayhursh]

fyi this y axis is upside down

[KenC]

Shim all 4 wheels will center the whole assembly,

[smreish]

Ken,
That will get the carriage back in line with the vee rail, but he might have an issue with the spur reaching the rail/rack if the motor shaft and pinion hub can't reach.

Personally, I would try to move the rail out board further with slotted holes or another set of holes to offset the overhang challenge. Second, shorten the y-axis carriage if the pinions didn't reach.

[Surfcnc]

Hi Mich

You can get your rack and pinions at T.E.A Transmissions.
They usually have 3 meter lengths in stock which means no joins will be required for the X axis.
In Australia you need to commit to a degree of sourcing off shore.
The build cost here is still more than in some other countries regardless as shipping adds up or is added onto the AU stock prices.

Good luck with your build but as you run the Shark CNC, you already have some CNC skills to start off with (more than I started with that's for sure).
Be cautious of deviating from the plans unless you fully understand some of the more subtle relationships between components.

Regards
Ross

[KenC]

The motor shaft can handle some overhand load, its ok if the spur gear extend over the motor shaft, the limiting factor is how long the spur gear is.

Bringing the rail further out is another way. There are 2 ways which I did, 1) enlarge the hole. Its ok to have the hole very big as the the rail sandwiches the RHS wall with the tapped flat bar. 2) drilling new holes on the RHS. IMHO, either ways are more tedious than shimming.

You may have your own.

[F.A.B]

Ken & Sean the above miss alignment is not I my machine. Hurchy posted those pics.
My question was if I use 75x50 angle on my rails with the 75 being the side bolted down there will be some 4mm hover hang inside of the gantry will this interfere with the Y car or should I trim it back to 65mm. I don't see a problem on the main rails with the 75mm.

Ross thanks for that I talked to TEA today and rack and pinions are on the way.

[KenC]

No issue. I use 75 x 50 Angle too. It actually look better to my eye.

[F.A.B]

That's good news Ken as that is what I purchased today!

[smreish]

3 x 2 angle is just fine. Thanks for the clarity.
I used 3" leg angle on #58 and worked great.

[pblackburn]

Mich,
Just catching up on your thread. Nice to have another person who likes the challenge. Building the machine is not that hard. Just takes time and for some of us longer than others. You will have something to feel good about. I wish you the best of times with your build and if you have any questions, do not hesitate to post them. We all had our problems and everyone that frequents here will be more than willing to answer.

[F.A.B]

Well I have enough parts in my shed to be able to make a start. So today I put all the larger section steel trough my $34 saw. Y cross beems main X beams and legs all cut. Will start laying out the drill holes on these parts next and build up from that. I need it to rain a little so I have a reason to stay in the shed and work.

[MetalHead]

No fair !!! I want one of those saws . My little Grizzly 64 works good, but not like those !

[Tom Ayres]

It is a beast, isn't it?

[F.A.B]

It is a good saw. I had a need to cut some 150x100x9 box so went off to a local engineer shop to use his saw. My little drop saw was not going to do it..
Any way when finished I told the owner I would love a saw like that! He said " give me a carton of beer and its your, I have a new one coming" 1/2hr later he had some beer and I had a saw.

[F.A.B]

I am going to add a 4th axis at the end of my table parallel with the Y. I am after some advice as to the best height to mount the index head. My thoughts were to have the center line of axis level with the top of scarf board. I have never used a 4th axis but believe must jobs are set up with center of rotation as the z zero point. views and suggestions would be appreciated.

[pblackburn]

See some info here (http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=14830)

[F.A.B]

Can I ask what are you guys are using to draw your electrical diagrams. This side of the build is going to be the hardest for me so I need to start getting my head around it and I think the best way it get it on paper..

On the other side of the build some progress report.
Bent cap plates for end of X beams
Y supports marked out and numbered with punch stamps so no chance of mixing up.
Drilled Y supports
Drilled X beams
taped x beams

[darren salyer]

Very nice progress.

[parrulho]

with that kind of tools around you it will be easy. good job

[dbinokc]

I am guessing the picture is some kind of magnetic tap guide. Where did you get it?

[F.A.B]

DB yes its a little mag clamp makes keeping the tap nice and square. picked it up online from these guys http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/

[F.A.B]

Paulo I was born and raised on a farm that was in the middle of nowhere, the closest shop 3 1/2hr drive so we had to fend for ourselves most of the time. The farm I am now on is only 10min from town but still have all the tools on hand in the shed.

[dbinokc]

I guess I will have to see if they ship overseas. I can't seem to find anywhere in the US that carries them.

DB yes its a little mag clamp makes keeping the tap nice and square. picked it up online from these guys http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/

[F.A.B]

DB that would have to be a first having to ship tools from Aus. to USA.

[dbinokc]

I think I have tracked down the original manufacturer at


http://www.chengkuan.com.tw/eng_product_view.asp?FkindNo=F000017&PidNo=200912150030

but I would probably have to buy a hundred of them.


DB that would have to be a first having to ship tools from Aus. to USA.

[Mrayhursh]

Here is one on ebay for 158.12

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-2XUV5-Hand-Tapper-6-To-5-8-Tap-Cap-9-Holders-/321106635880?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac3726c68

Here is one from Grizzly for 92.95

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8748

Amazon for 129.90

http://www.amazon.com/ezMachineTools-Precision-Hand-Tapper/dp/B007J0ZQVW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2

The one I like best is a 2x4 with a hole drilled in it. If you want to get fancy put a hollow tube in the board as a guide. Mine fits in a drawer or hangs on the wall or fits in the trash can when I am done. But as a tool collector I still want one.

[F.A.B]

Well the time has come to start with the electrics so if some kind person would like to look over my work and point out the errors, I must have some.
I am building a 4 axis machine with motion king 9802 motors all round
2.2kw spindle and VFD
I am planning to use PMDX 126 with ESS and 2 PMDX 133 for Gecko 203v hookup
PMDX 145 for pendant
PMDX 107 for VFD control
Now power supply ?????
So 9802 motors have 2.4mh inductance wired uni-polar (which I must do to keep them within specs for the geckos)
Voltage = 32*sqr2.4 = 49vdc
Plus 20% as per Gerald recommendations = 61vdc
VA “watts” = 5 motors @ 5A = 25A peck
I need 67% = 16.7A
VA = 16.7A * 61vdc = 1018VA
I don't feel comfortable making one:eek: so from the Antek web site I would need a PS-10N56 or a PS-10N63
How am I going so far?:confused:
I am leaning toward the 10N56R5R12. I believe I don’t need the 5vdc and 12vdc outputs at this stage as the 126 board will run from 240v mains. And it will then power the other boards and proximity switches. But my thinking is that it is easier to put it in now for future needs add-on etc.
Enough questions for now I don’t want my head to explode!

[pblackburn]

I doubt you will ever have full power used. The 5 and 12 would be a nice option and many here have done that. I used a separate 24V power supply though for my signals. I did this to eliminate contamination of the power source. The 126 supports 24V controls for the inputs which is nice as it opens up to the market of industrial add-ons.

[pblackburn]

I have an Antek 56V 1000W powering 5 steppers. 2 at 6.3A and 3 at 3.5A

[F.A.B]

Well thank you Pete, you have put my mind at ease I will be able to sleep sound tonight.

[F.A.B]

I don't think I will see as much progress over the next week as I did in this first one of my build. next up will be the gantry but have to wait for the laser kit to show up before much of that can be done. An few if any of the electrics are on hand so that is off the cards as well. Well will just have to spend the time ready...
The flanges on my main beams are not square so I leveled and clamped the top flanges to straight edges before welding on the legs. Maybe this will help down the track when leveling my V tracks. I do like my saw it makes cutting multiple parts quick and easy. And at the end of the week I have a base frame all made ready to be flipped onto its feet.

[F.A.B]

Rolled it over on its feet today. Put the straight edge across the top. Main beams are good and straight end to end. The flanges are good and parallel across the ends, put in the middle not so. In the picture it looks to be a huge twist but with feelers it is only 0.5mm. So I think, I should be able to just shim the V rails when I come to that. Well at least I hope that is the case and I don't have to try and take the twist out.
Had my friendly electrician come visit today. We went over the electrical plans. He is very interested in building one now as well with a plasma in to cut out his control panels. So my be able to come to some arrangement in regards to some cheap electrical parts.

[F.A.B]

Well not a lot of physical progress this week. I have been waiting for the laser kit to arrive. They must be taking the tourist route around Oz as Rick has sent them a while back. Well it has given me time to do some more ready and study of other builds. I had an electrician mate go over the plans and then we went through his shed of leftover parts from other jobs and managed to collect all but a box, and isolation switch and the shielded cable. My power supply showed up yesterday. I had taken a bit of a hit in freight. I think it is just the main plate hurt, with all components still looking good, so just a little panel beating.

On the build side I did put some jock wheels on and drill and tap all my v rails ready for the grinder skate when it shows.

[F.A.B]

Well show and tell time.
My laser kit arrived this week so the Y gantry and Z car have been welded. I am very happy with how they came out, both look to sit down nice and flat and square. Cutting started on the rails. The piece of chip board that I used for the setup started to catch fire from the sparks, so added a little shield. I cleaned my local bearing supplies out of the 6001 bearings for the skate setup for the 45 grinds, so that will have to wait. They only had 6 in stock. Will start work on the z slide and spider next week, well that is the plan. irrigating the cotton crop is taking a lot of my time at the moment.

[lonestaral]

Nice photos.
No Castlemaine xxxx tins available ?
:D

[darren salyer]

Looking Good!!

[pblackburn]

You certainly are moving along nicely.

[F.A.B]

Al it is a bit sad to admit but I don't drink. In fact I had to get this can from the mother-in-law. She saved be a pile of them ready to shim the rails in a week or two.
Pete I know I originally said Easter finish but I am going to work on end of Christmas break. I think the only thing that will stop me is if I have forgotten to purchase some bit and I can't get it local and has to be freighted in.

[pblackburn]

Snowing here, warm there. The warmer temperature definitely helps when you are building. I built mine over the winter months here, had to space things out between snow falls. I don't think you will have much of a problem with that. :)

[F.A.B]

This week I managed to finish cutting down the rails and then grind the V on all four. The grinding of the V is such I simple and smooth operation with the skate. Don't know what I was worried about! I fitted some wheels and quickly discovered that not only did my gantry and car sit down perfectly flat, (had also been worried about twist) but also I need stop blocks.
They glide along very smooth and with very little effort I could send them straight off the end of the rails. Claps for now but stop block are next on the list.
Have started work on the Z and spider. One thing lacking in my workshop is a metal lath, so am waiting on a local machine shop to turn up the spacer blocks for the rollers on the spider. Hoping I get them before the Christmas break.
A little off topic but added a picture of my work shop. You guys might like to show your own ( like checking out other sheds).
I know I have access to a nice shop but really you could make one of these things with just a couple of tools. welder, grinder, drill and tap.

[lonestaral]

Now that's what I call a workshop.
That will have to go on my Christmas list.
My own work space is a bit more modest, my back balcony.

Yes get the stops on, this thing gets heavy very quickly.

[F.A.B]

The steel work is almost done.
Worked on the Z this week, after waiting 3 weeks for the v roller spacers to be turned up by a local shop. So welded on spacers and nuts, arranged a surfacing jig ( old tile and sandpaper) a little felt pen on the spacers and about 20min later all looks pretty good. It took a little while to get the gas strut and stops in the correct positions but I think they now work like they should. My gas strut will not lift the spindle all the way back to the top. But it is my understanding that it is there to stop the Z falling when power to the motor is cut. If so then mine does what it is ment for.
I got my 4th axis ( jet lathe ) mounted at the far end of the bed. At the moment I have the centre of axis level with top of table. Don't know if this is the best hieght but time will tell.
Just a couple of small jobs left before a strip down and paint.

Then Electrics?????

[Mrayhursh]

can't wait to see how you integrate the lathe into your machine.

[F.A.B]

I can't wait to see how I do it as well.
At the moment I have no more of and idea then to say I want to do it. Details yet to be worked out or even on.

[pblackburn]

You could make it so it rotated out of the way so the table would have the extra length. Nothing more than large taper pins needed for the rotation up alignment then work out the small details of attaching the extended table. Most likely most of your work will be flat and not rotary so I would work with the idea of having the best of both.

[F.A.B]

Pete when I first laid out the size of machine I add 200mm to the length so the lathe can stay in place permanent and still have a 1200x2400 cut table. The parts I have not worked out yet is the drive system. (motor, belt reduction and control within mach3)

[F.A.B]

Quick question! What size electrical boxes should I be looking at for the gantry and Z car. Looks like it could be a challenge to fit some of the wiring.

[danilom]

Look for the tall ones, you can stuff a lot of things inside

http://www.tayee-electric.com/attachment/view/611164.jpg

Mine on the Z car houses 4 pushbuttons and a motor connection in one :) along with some switch for led light around spindle

[Mrayhursh]

Mich, what all are you going to be including at this junction. I have the usual three buttons on mine. I purchased my setup from Metalhead. The box is just the right size for what I have. If you are using larger gage wire or have additional wires being routed you may want to consider something larger. I have seen pictures in the forum where people are using different size to do this.

[pblackburn]

I prefer E3PB (http://www.hoffmanonline.com/product_catalog/catalog_item_detail.aspx?cat_1=34&cat_2=2280&cat_3=74846&catID=82937&itemID=2834&searchFor=e3pb&catIDs=82937,186&itemIDs=2834,8170&catalog_item=8170) or E4PB by Hoffman but any steel enclosure would work fine. Some use plastic (abs or poly) but my experience with those is while they are inexpensive they do break easily compared to steel (not unlike comparing the 22mm to the 30.5mm buttons, you can abuse the 30.5, I have seen hammers used for actuating, a 22mm will not take that abuse). A E3PB will give you 1 30.5mm Emergency Stop and 2 30.5mm push buttons on the face then you can use multiple 12mm or 14mm push buttons from places like McMaster-Carr like catalog number 6915K24. Or you can get a sealed box and use an Emergency stop and the 14mm for everything else (ie jog controls, hold, start, etc), your only limit is the capabilities of the number of inputs you can have. If you are using LPT then you will have a very limited number of inputs. Hope this helps. In the end the choice it yours and the minimum buttons I would look for is 3 with a minimum depth of 2.75"(70mm)

[alan254]

BIGGER the better, I put my sensor relays in one of mine. There is never enough room.

Al

[KenC]

Go as big as you can afford, there is never a control penal too big :)

[F.A.B]

Progress has been slow for the last week or so. Hard to get much done when it is 45deg C.
So all that I have to report is that I now have paint on all main parts. Sorry but this farm is John Deere from front gate to back gate and I just couldn't bring myself to having Ford blue in my shed so John Deere green it is..
It was a tight fit getting the MATE into my wood shed but it is now it its final home and re-assembly is under way. Then I suppose I will have run out of reasons not to work on the electrics...

[Tom Ayres]

Looks Great, Love the John Deere green!

[racedirector]

Love it Mich, well done. I am going to steal your jockey wheel idea, easier to implement than casters.

The electronics aren't scary at all, you'll have them nailed in no time and be wondering what all the fuss was about :)

[F.A.B]

Bruce I was well pleased with the jockey wheels today it was the first time I had tried to use them, and was able to manoeuvre it around with ease.
As far as the electrics go, I plan to mount all hardware elements and then with laptop open on the forum (for all the hints and pointers) fully wire in each component one at a time. I was telling sparky the other day, that I would get it working but it may not be pretty, but that didn't matter as no one was going to see it other then me (and the few hundred on this site). He tells me he will, because he wants to make his own..

[pblackburn]

Awesome color!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mrayhursh]

yep need yellow pinstripes

[F.A.B]

Hurshy the yellow MechMate logos and pin strips are on the shelf. They will go on when all is running and dust is flying.

[darren salyer]

Cool!!!

[pblackburn]

Still trying to figure out how this thread has not moved to the 'Construction Started' area yet.

[MetalHead]

Huh? What do you mean? :)

[lonestaral]

Deere Mich.
I see that you have moved.
I hope you like your new home.
Nice colour by the way.

[F.A.B]

What a good day today!
To start with spent the morning at the local woodworkers club, always a good time when mates are playing in a shed. We are in the progress of making a bar.
Then the afternoon working on the Mate. My daughter sorted out and the nuts and bolts, gee hope I can remember where they all go again.

14540

Shimmed and aligned and spaced the X Rails. That took a little time! I'm to within 0.5mm which for now I am happy.
14541

Made up a rack to spray my springs. I had these made so are not zinc plated or anything so a light coat of paint to keep the rust at bay. Can you guess what colour I chose.
14542

Fitted up the racks on X & Y axis. spent a bit of time cleaning to give the 3M VHB tape the best chance of working. Still not 100% on the stuff but it looks to have work for all of you so blind faith in the forum stands for now.
14543

Came across one issue today that had past my attention. I had a local engineer bore out the pinions for me. I picked them up a few weeks ago and never paid a lot of attention. A little hard to see but one of them must have spun in his chuck and left it a little rough. I had nothing to lose so spent some time with the diamond files and cleaned up a lot of the burrs. Time will tell if I need a new pinion. what ever happens I don't think I will go back to that engineer.
14544

Mounted the prox switches
14545

Fitted the spider into the Y car.
14546

Repaired a flat tire for my kids. Don't know how many miles that cart has done in the last couple of days.
14547

Made some teflon washes from a cutting board.
14548

Did a bit of layout work on the control board.
14549

And finally mounted the two control boxes. One for the main panel and the second for the VFD. I did a fan and filter system on the smaller box, but neglected to take pictures. Will post them with the next update.
14550

[MetalHead]

Your build is looking great!!!

[darren salyer]

1. Without pics, your WW club isn't building a bar. :)
2. Blind faith has served me well on numerous occasions during my MM build.
3. Pinion looks fine to me.
4. Glad to see the kiddos wearing helmets. Hopefully they are seatbelted as well.
5. Keep up the good work. You are in the home stretch, and looking great.

[pblackburn]

The top of the teeth should not pose a problem, just remove the sharp burrs. The pressure angle is where the contact is made. Just do not forget to use a good grease to help prevent wear. I do not understand why they chucked it on the teeth and not the hub. If they needed to turn down the hub, they should have used a mandrel first then bored.

[smreish]

...or the 3 or 4 jaw chuck wouldn't close down far enough and they got lazy.

[Mrayhursh]

safety issue: I think that pink table on the drill press is dangerous:eek:

[F.A.B]

Hurshy one of the local cabinat shops gave me a 3.5m section of the pink counter top. It was lift over from a job (what job would ever require pink) and it had than sat around for years. No one wanted to buy it, don't know why!. As for me if its free I turn colour blind.

[Mrayhursh]

if it was free I would have taken it too. it looks like at the pace you are going that you are going to be running soon. Best of luck. what type of proximity detector did you buy?

[F.A.B]

The prox switches are "Inductive Proximity Sensor Detection Switch NPN DC 6-36V" I am hoping they will work picked them up on ebay for $2.50 a piece.

[danilom]

No reason they would not, just use small relays (coil > 400 ohm) to keep the current below their 100mA max, or if you are using them with 12V optocoupled board you should be fine

[Fox]

Which 12 volt optocoupler board do you mean Danilo !?

[smreish]

something like this:
http://www.winfordeng.com/products/rly104.php
Though, I used these:

http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.259182/.f

[F.A.B]

I thought I did not need any relays if I was going to conect them upto a 126 BOB.

[smreish]

You shouldn't need the relays for your particular BOB. If you experience noise or faulty estops...you may need to add the relays or some other type of isolation. Make sense?

[Red_boards]

I've been running my sensors straight off the BOB for years and they have been fine.

[Fox]

@ sean Thnx, but I know the relay boards solution....but was asking for the opto coupler board (I only know the one of Mike offered on this board - with arduino - which is nice but more then I need. So I was interested into a simple 4 or 6 channel optcocoupler board to isolate the inputs (not want to use relays).

[smreish]

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9118

This place has cute fun single and multiple isolation things

[Fox]

Thnx Sean.

[pblackburn]

Just catching up here. I run my proximity switches right to the PMDX board with no problems as of yet.

[F.A.B]

Progress now looks to have slowed, but I think it is like building a house the big frame and roof goes up in a week and then the fit out takes 6 weeks. Well I think I am on the fit out.
Motors all attached temporarily. will take them back off to do a table top test.

14563

Finish of a fan and filter for the VFD Box.

14564 14565

And ran all of the wiring, coolant and an air line around the frame. Well at least I thought it was all until I remembered the earth line.

14566 14567

[KenC]

Wow...

[1planeguy]

Like the Adel clamps...very clean and tidy!

[smreish]

..you may consider a small sticker or label to cover that hole on the back of the stepper. It will get VERY dusty soon.

Great progress!

[F.A.B]

Sean I had read many reminders in various threads about the covers for the hole in end of motor, and always thought "I must do that" but until today I had just kept putting it off. Thanks for the prompt . I will gratefully except all suggestions.

[KenC]

The masking tape I put on years ago starting to peel off.

[F.A.B]

Well progress is being made, much of the wiring is connected. I am having some trouble getting my head around mapping the pins and ports through PMDX126 - Ethernet Smoothstepper - into Mach. If anyone feels like sharing their wisdom please feel free to share away.

My setup is Mach3 - ESS - PMDX126 - PMDX133 - G203V

then PMDX107 for Huanyang spindle control

and hopefully PMDX145 for HEDSS pendant

I have had the steppers turning under PMDX test mode and tuned the geckos, but as yet have been unable to move them under Mach. I know it is just going to be a setting or three in the ESS or Mach that I need to get correct.

I see on one off the million or so pages I have printed off this forum that I should probably put and EMI filter on the mains input to the VFD. Can someone point me in that direction of where to find one.

[pblackburn]

You may not need one. I only have ferrite cores on my mains. It all depends on how noisy your VFD is.

[F.A.B]

Pete will wait to see what happens with the noise problem first.

I do have a question. I am wanting to add some safety into my tool changes. (disable all movement & spindle). I have read much here about switches on gantry to isolate spindle and killing power etc.
I was thinking could I use a toggle on the fault input on the 126 BOB. my reading of the manual says that this would disables all outputs. (steppers, PWM to VFD drive etc.) without tripping contactor and killing all power like the estop. Will this work.

[smreish]

The BOB has limited features that will allow you to do this as a MACRO or subroutine other than a feedhold or spindle power down feature.

If you using the VFD, you could wire a remote switch to the enable/disable input on the spindle.
On a router, I used a simple switch on the gantry to remove power to the device.

Since VFd's don't like switch or contactor between the "drive and the head", your options are limited, but not unsafe.

[KenC]

Switching off power is the safest.

[F.A.B]

Ken I know switching off power is the safest but not completely practical with a VFD.
1. they don't like power on and off on a regular basis.
2. it turns a 30sec job into minutes with the time taken to let drive completely drain capacitors and then after bit change time for VFD to initiate and power up. Now a 3-4min job. A dozen or more changes turns into and hour or so a day.
I know electronic control through BOB is not 100% but we put our lives in the hands of electronics every day and trust them to do what they were made to do.

[KenC]

Save your fingers or the VFD, u gotta decide.
I just switch off the VFD manually. i.e. press the red button on the VFD. I don't find it troublesome at all.
So far, the stepper motors stay put when I change tools. Maybe I'm overly optimistic, but I feel extremely safe & secured doing it after a few thousands tool changes.

[pblackburn]

The Hitachi WJ200 I have has a safety circuit built into it that I use to disable the spindle while doing a tool change with an emergency stop button that is linked only to it. It will not run if a forward or reverse signal is sent to the drive until it is reset. I do not run mine through a safety unit as shown only through the contact on the emergency stop push button.

Below is a snapshot from the manual.

[F.A.B]

Need a little guidance!
I cannot get any movement in my steppers through ESS.
I have movement on all motors in test mode on the PMDX126.
But when connected up to ESS and mach nothing.
I connected up the Estop, pause and resume they all activate mach. So I have a connection through the ESS no motors thou.



Any suggestions

[pblackburn]

Verify your step direction terminations according to the 126 to your ESS to your Ports and Pins.

[F.A.B]

thanks Pete I don't know how many times I checked the pin outs yesterday. I had one of those light bulb moments during the night. Charge pump. set the pin out for that and to life did the motors come.

Now onto the spindle control with PMDX107. I have manual control on the 2.2kw huanyang spindle. changed all the specs according to various post here and all seems well. starts and stops and spins right up to 24000rpm. But as yet no control through mach. More reading tonight and trials tomorrow. If any one has used this combo. PMDX126 - PMDX107 - and huanyang drive could you point me to your thread...

Dust is close...

[Tom Ayres]

Mich, I'm setting up the same combo and with any luck it will be up and running by this weekend. I'll pass on any info. I'm sure there are others with the same that may impart some knowledge.

[pblackburn]

I used modbus but I seem to think I remember reading there is another charge pump setting for the spindle control board.

[pblackburn]

This is what I remembered (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=62226&postcount=307)

[F.A.B]

Tom that would be great. We can compare notes...

[F.A.B]

Well the jobs are ticking down.
I have full spindle control in Mach. Tom there is a very good application note on the PMDX site in settings for mach and our setup. The only stumble I had has the connections on the VFD. there are several plans here that show the connections which I had followed. Then I found a youtube video showing the connections and mine were different. One wire is to be connected to ACM on the drive well I have two ACM pins and of cause I had the wrong one. I am not at the machine but can get the exact pins tomorrow if you like. I do know it is on the top row of pins.

Now research on proxy, limits, home etc I have them all in series at the moment on J12 +12v. pin 13 & com. as per some threads here but that's not working. reading reading reading.....

[F.A.B]

There is some work, no a lot of work left to do. Proxy switches, indexer, touch plate.....

But my mate cuts and is functional enough to start work. A big thank you to all on this forum that have helped and encouraged. And to Jon and Bernard here for all you assistance.

Evidence for a serial #. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Npdge6G3tkU&feature=youtu.be

Does anyone want to buy a Shark pro plus? not needed any more...

[racedirector]

Congrats! That looks so cool with it pinstriping and fancy bits. Once you are 100% done I forsee some awesome stuff coming out of the new beast

[Tom Ayres]

Well, She Does "Run Like A Deere". Congrats, job well done!

[KenC]

now the real fun begins. :)

[darren salyer]

Very cool.
Congrats on a job well done.

[dbinokc]

Looks great! You started about a month after I did and at the current rate I will probably finish a few months after you.

[domino11]

Congrats Mich! Looks like serial number time. :)

[smreish]

So pretty! Nicely done.

[isladelobos]

Wow !!

Good sound nice machine

[Andrew_standen]

Well done. Congratulations . Now the real fun starts

[F.A.B]

Thank you all,

it has been a rewarding journey to date. I have the car and engine running now to get me to work. I am really excited about testing just how much better this machine is going to be then my last.

I see Vectric has a new project of the month today. One for the wife, can't hurt if she gets the first project off the Mate.

I know I am going to be on this forum for a long time yet, I want the bells and whistles now.

[Fox]

Congrats, motivating to keep going at mine.
What are the lower three button on your (HUGE:D) Y-car button enclosure for ? evoking zero routine, coolant, spindle by button push in MACH3 ?

[F.A.B]

Fox I haven' nailed that down yet. One is the zero routine, the toggle is in the fault circuit to interrupt the charge pump signal, that disables all out puts. Because my spindle is controlled through PMDX107, without charge pump spindle can't go, my safety for bit changes. The other button is up for grabs at the moment... the box looks better with 6 rather then 5 buttons.

[Fox]

I would put Gerald under button number 6 :D

[alan254]

Always happy to see your first cut. Had the same problem with the charge pump. Good going!!!!!

[F.A.B]

Run into a bump today.
My spindle has started running in reverse with the M3 command. Any suggestions!!
I did a couple of cuts yesterday all good. Loaded up a file today and started up only to get grinding gears and burnt timber. What the! checked the code and it is an S20000M03 so I am at a lose now what has happened.

[MetalHead]

Congrats on the build !!! I love the color !!! You get #116 !!

[pblackburn]

:cool: Congratulations on 116! I look forward to seeing your creations.

[pblackburn]

Mich,
When you manually turn on the spindle, does it still turn CCW? Does it differ when you use MDI? With M04 does it turn CW?

[IMMark]

Mich....Congrats #116 !!
Mark

[F.A.B]

#116 looks great to me, I will have to come up with manufactures compliance plate for it now.

Pete the thing I couldn't understand was how one day M3 spun up CW (first cut video) and then the next day M3 spins up CCW. I did then try an M4 and it went CW. So yes I fixed the issue with flipping the wires around, just don't know why it changed.

[lonestaral]

Well done #116.
A Class build by Fahr.
As for M3 turning into M4, I suspect Gremlins.

[jhiggins7]

Mich,

Congratulations on your build and on earning Serial #116 ... and FAST too.

Here is the Updated Builder's Log (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&usp=sharing)with your entry.

I probably have the dimensions wrong, since you mentioned that you were going to leave extra space in one of the dimensions for a future indexer.

Please let me know the correct dimensions and any other changes you would want to make to your entry.

[F.A.B]

Well here you go the first finished project off the Mate.
This is the latest project of the month from Vectric. Nothing very difficult but it was nice to see the machine do what you ask it to do.
And it is always good to try and keep the wife happy.

[pblackburn]

Going back and reading post #1 (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=64253&postcount=1), I wonder, does she still think you were crazy for making this machine?

[racedirector]

Now you're just showing off... kidding! That is awesome and a great was to get her indoors on the right side - congrats!

[parrulho]

Congratulations on your new and good looking machine, good work.

[F.A.B]

Well has been a little while between posts. I shaved the spoil board off and that was enough to make me want a dust foot. So made my version off many here. 6mm lexon and a couple of magnets and a little vinyl.
http://youtu.be/hQWC4gbbPVw
just a little clip of machining the Lexon and then one of the foot in action. Very happy with the outcome.
http://youtu.be/TJpQvzny5Ao

I am having a little problem with heat in the control box so that will be the next on the list. I have a fan in the box but i think I will add one to push some fresh air in.

[Tom Ayres]

Looks like its working great. How's the vinyl shield working for you? How far below the shoe do you have it hanging? does it come close to interfering with the cuts? Like the yellow stickers (+Y-), an orientation reminder.

[F.A.B]

Tom I have two layers of vinyl. It is only light weight stuff and to start with I just had the longer strip on and with the suction I have it just all sucked up and never kept its shape. so in the end I have one layer 40mm long with no slits cut in it and then the outer layer 75mm long with slits cut about every 20mm. The bottom plate is held on by magnets like many do, But I only had 4 10mm ones on hand so was concerned it may not hold with deep cuts but all is well (so far)

[Tom Ayres]

Cool, thanks for sharing.

[myozman]

Congrats on #116. I remember when I completed mine, a hundred machines before you. Let the dust fly.

Mines more of a hobby machine, buts makes some nice side cash when you need it. My wife still complains about it and the rest of my wood shop, but she doesn't hesitate to ask me to do a project or volunteer my services.

Good Luck and have fun.

Mike #16

[darren salyer]

Boy Mike did you nail the wife factor there.....Mine is the exact same.

[F.A.B]

Well Just a little up date have managed to get the vac hold down up and running. It is just like most of the ones done here and on shopbot forum. A couple of light house motors and some PVC plumbing. I divided my table up into 9 sections with gate vales to shut down the unused portions. I use silicon sealer in-between the zones to restrict leakage. I have yet to fit up a gauge as yet so can not tell you any values yet but it seems to work just fine so far.

[racedirector]

Wow, awesome, that looks cool. More details please, aiming to add vacuum to mine once I am used to it cutting stuff.

[darren salyer]

Nice looking work, my friend.

[Fox]

Nice ! What kind of thick sheet material is that between the top of your support board and the bottom, of your vac zones ?

[KenC]

Thats a lot of valves

[smreish]

Excellent looking vac table arrangement. Congrats.

[F.A.B]

Fox that is just MDF with a coat of sealer paint over it.
Ken yes there are 10 valves 9 for the zones and one on a quick dump. I only have 2 LH7123-13 vac motors in the system so wanted to be able to shut down as much of the un used portion as possible. When I went looking for the slide valves my local water and pumping supplier had a book price of $43.5o a valve.
ShitSo I told him that this is just a hobby I would work on a different plan. Oh let me work on a price for you...
He came back with $325 for all of the all class 18 PVC Fittings pipe (80mm main, 50mm branches), elbows, T's, and slide vales at $$11.75 a piece.

[darren salyer]

It is a beautiful setup.
Do you think the quick dump valve is necessary?
My understanding is it is used to be able to quickly cycle sheets on the machine without constantly cycling the vac on/off...
The lighthouse motors won't hold a vac when shut off, they bleed off almost instantaneously.
Not being critical, just an observation for someone who may follow your lead, but only cut 1 or two sheets a week.

[KenC]

Bleed-off is like an alternative "vacuum Off " without switching on & off the motors too often which is not a good thing for the motors.
I only have 1 zone, with an open end bleed-off pipe I just throw a close-cell sponge (from packaging anything which can be a good gasket) over it when I want to close the bleed off ; I cover the unpopulated plenum with floor vinyl carpet. If I want to ensure better air tightness, I just tape the mat to the plenum & the workpiece.
my piping cost me less then US33. I spend the saving on vacuum gauge (US5~20, can't remember exact number, its bee too long). so that I will know if I have enough suction power which I think its more important.

BTW, the vinyl floor carpet is great for covering your spoil board to keep off dust & dirt when not in use.

[darren salyer]

You are saying the same thing I said, Ken.

[F.A.B]

Darren I know what you mean, with the lighthouse motors as soon as you kill the power the vac is gone. just that my power switch is at the other end of the shop and it should be much quicker to pull a valve right there at the table swap sheets and go again.
Ken hadn't given idea of damage to the motors with constant cycling on and off any thought but you are probably correct.
I wish I had this up and running 2 weeks ago, I did 15 sheets in the day. clamps and hold tab were a pain.
So when I got the order for 360 205mm 12mm ply circles I made the time to get the vac working. The circle work starts tomorrow so will give a report on how my system works

[Fox]

Word of caution: please note with the lighthouse motors you need some bleeding on your vacuum or they will burn up themselves up over time. If you do not have enough leak ( if you created a "perfect" sealed system ), you could use a sintered bronze air blow off for the purpose of a controlled leak. See the shopbot forum or the lighthouse guys for info.

Lighthouse on this matter:

You must have at least 1/4"(Drilled Hole in the bottom of your table or plumbing) leakage per motor for proper cooling of the lower bearing. This must be filtered air - possibly using a filter like a ShopVac uses to cover the all holes that you have drilled. This will give you plenty of filtered surface air. If you come up with a better idea please tell us so we can tell others.
If you do not provide leakage air, you will destroy the motor and the warranty will not apply!

[F.A.B]

I snapped my first bit off yesterday, I was running in plastic, single flute all was cutting well no melting or anything just while cutting a 20mm grove chip removal was a problem. I was manually blowing chips away with compressed air, got distracted and as quick as that snap. So a quick steel from the milling machine and a dirty install I now have air on my Mate.
14970

Now for the vacuum hold down I cut 8 sheets of 12mm marine ply yesterday, 2 passes 1 at 11mm and them 1 at 1mm at 2500mm/min with 3/8 up cut spiral. I could not be happier with how things worked. Never lost a piece, quick change over, no clamps or screws to worry about. Just need to redesign my dust extraction, it just couldn't keep up with the chip load.
14971 14972

[darren salyer]

Love it.
Great job.

[F.A.B]

For a hobby there are not many weeks that the Mate does not get started for some reason. One day I may even get paid for some of them.
However I just wanted to pass on a new attachment that I added today. I HATE sanding at the best of times so when I surfaced some new laminated tops for work benches at the local woodworkers club I set out to find a way to sand with the Mate. Well I took a Triton RO sanding attachment for a 4in grinder added a spigot and no more hand sanding on large flat surfaces for me anymore.
https://youtu.be/E8CBDUr8mEk

[Fox]

Cool!

[pblackburn]

Wow, it's been over a year since your last post. Any other examples for inspiration? I like the sanding attachment. How much pressure did you apply to keep the stress of the bearings?

[F.A.B]

Pete hard to tell exactly about pressure but very little just enough to get the random orbital part of the sander to work. After the 30 minute run time to sand the top a checked and there was now heat in the bearings of sander or spindle.

[F.A.B]

A selection of the jobs put to the Mechmate over the past year.
A few trophies
signage flat and 3 dimensional
flat pack furniture
Some work in polyurethane (scale model of Gallipoli)
a little two sided carving.
And even some glass etching.

http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15427&stc=1&d=
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15428&stc=1&d=14458060281445806028
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15429&stc=1&d=1445806028
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15430&stc=1&d=1445806028
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15431&stc=1&d=1445806028
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15432&stc=1&d=1445806353
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15433&stc=1&d=1445806353
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15434&stc=1&d=1445806353
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15435&stc=1&d=1445806353
http://mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15436&stc=1&d=1445806353

[dbinokc]

As someone who has a keen interest in world war 1, I find the Gallipoli cutting very impressive. Is the elevation of the terrain to scale?

[F.A.B]

DB it is all to scale. I just downloaded the data from the US GeoService. There is a whole lot of info on the vectric site running through how and where to get the data and convert it to tool paths.

[lonestaral]

Well impressed.

[MetalHead]

Great work!!!

[clarson66]

Nice work, would like to see more of the vacuum table set up. It's the one thing I would love to have.

[racedirector]

Outstanding work, the beast is certainly working nicely. Would you mind sharing your cut file for the vacuum table? I am in my own planning stage and am stuck on the zones and squares...... I'll be running 2 motors to start with as well.

[clarson66]

I 2nd the motion for the vacuum table drawings, look's great

[clarson66]

Looking at that vacuum table set up again, very nice. Do you still run a thin spoil board on top or is depth of cut set accurately as not to damage the vacuum table?

[Robert M]

"Well I took a Triton RO sanding attachment for a 4in grinder added a spigot and no more hand sanding on large flat surfaces for me anymore."

Love it....quite cleaver :cool:
I just may try this too....thanks for sharing ;)

[F.A.B]

Have attached both vectric crv file and a dxf of my vacuum table layout.
I then cut 8mm deep with a 12in cutter. I cut the sections up on the table saw which gave me a 3mm kerf that I filled with silicon as a divider between sections.

[Robert M]

Thanks for sharing these files !!;)...
May I ask, when time permits, to offer a vectirc ealier version, say 4.0 or 4.5 !
For me and some others, opening it in V-8 may not be possible :o
Tks

[F.A.B]

You should be able to open the dxf into what ever version of vectric you have but I will try and work out if I can save a file in a lower version the 8.

[Robert M]

ooupss...your absolutely right....my mistake as I don't often go that route ( opening DXF in vectric ....and posted a reply a little to fast !! :o
I was able to open the dxf with my 4.5v :rolleyes:
Thks

[racedirector]

Brilliant, thanks for the files Mich. One step closer to having a vacuum setup now!

[bradyaero]

Thanks for the files, it's a great option for the future!

[clarson66]

Thanks for the files, just imported the dxf will do the tool paths later. Can't wait to try out, may even do a small test section first.

[F.A.B]

Well Have had the time to do a little upgrading to #116.
Finally got around to making and installing some 3:1 drives on all axis.
I have had the gears and belts on the shelf for the past 18 months but could not find the time that I thought I may have needed to fit them up and get them working. In the end, they only took about 45mm to fit up, calibrate and get back to work. And like a lot of other people, now wondering why I waited so long. She is running so much smoother. I haven't increased any cut speeds, but did increase rapids to 12000mm/min.

[F.A.B]

Upgrade continues..
I installed a front vertical vice and put JointCAM to work,
Short video of the first through dovetails cut.
https://youtu.be/lJAVdww2TVo

[Robert M]

Nice vid !!....nicely done work !
About your trany, did you cut the alu yourself on the MM ?
If so, care to share your cutting strategy !
;)

[F.A.B]

Robert they were cut on the MM. It was the first aluminium I had machined so probably went on the safe side, but feeds and speeds were set from GWizard. Which were 1/8 OFlute Aluminium up spiral cutter, 14500RPM 1.5mmDOC 210mm/min. I didn't want to use a mister on the MDF table so just used a jet of air. I did break the cutter on the profile cut of the last plate, but I worked out that the little 1/8th cutter had done over 2km of cut so I think it had done a good days work.

[Robert M]

Thanks Mich for this detailed info !
2km….ya, I also think it’s acceptable to break after all this service in alu :p

For my part, It’s been so many yrs I want to try cutting aluminum, but a few main factors is slowing me to give it a go !
A – Mostly.... to busy working in the shop ( full time woodworker)
B – Since never tried it, I’m a little intimidated…. But honestly this is crap excuse :rolleyes: !
C – “B” is also motivated by A + fact is, I’m not fully in need to make some alu part….aside changing my tranys outfit ( at this point there still made out of UHMW :eek: ) !

Cheers ;)

[F.A.B]

But wait there's more..

I also managed to install a rotary A axis.

There are so many new possibilities with this MM now, to be honest I don't know what new projects to start with.



https://youtu.be/CHSoeyCV2HI

[Robert M]

MORE....:eek:

Great new add on to your….fun machine!:D

Odd enough, if you peak at my machine, way back in 2009, I design mine with a deep valley with the firm intention to incorporate one on the X axis. At the time, after build done, I decided to go one step at the time and wait to see if there was/is a commercial request or potential in my neck of the world !
Over 6yrs now, I can tell you….it was a sure bet to keep my expense low back then, never had a single request since, but must be honest, neither did I pushed hard to offer the possible capability. I still have in a box with some upfront purchase material for this set up…..still waiting to see daylight !!:o

Anyway….all the best with this new toys of yours I envy !!

Later….;)

[MarkRH]

Nice machine! Mind sharing the belt reduction dxf?

[F.A.B]

Mark, it has been a while but I have dug up the aspire files used to cut the parts. I don't seem to be able to upload the .crv files so have converted to dxf. The design for them came from this forum someplace but I can not remember from who.
I hope they can help.
My Mechmate has been sitting in a shipping container for the last two years. I am getting closer to getting it out into a new home. I am looking forward to that day!

Micheal

[MarkRH]

Thanks Mich! They may be J.R.s? I vaguely remember him making some with standoffs like yours. Or run some electric to the sea container. Post some pictures when you get it to its new home. Just welded my gantry thanks again

[jhiggins7]

Mich, RE: "I don't seem to be able to upload the .crv files". I remember "back in the day" we would just change the type on the file that the FORUM would not accept to something like .txt, upload it and instruct the person using the file to change the type back to the original type (in this case ".crv"). after downloading the file. I mention this since sometimes the conversions loose some of the information from the original file.

[F.A.B]

Well, nothing seems to be working for me today so if you would like the aspire files for my belt reductions send me a private message and I will email them direct.

[F.A.B]

Hi all,
I need a little assistance.
I had blue smoke today for the very first time.
As the picture shows my PMDX 133 board got upset for some reason. If anyone has any ideas of what might have caused this, it would be much appreciated.

[pblackburn]

What about the rest of the board, is it the same set of windings on each drive?

[dbinokc]

I would say start with a multimeter and check for shorts between the pins and to ground.
Also inspect the cables for signs of chaffing or cuts. Let us know what you find.

[pblackburn]

Are your steppers reading ok with a meter? You definitely have a problem with the B set of windings on two different drives. This leads me to believe that two drives are bad which is unlikely at the same time unless one is X and one is B, a connection issue with that set of windings. I would reach out to Gecko and PDMX also. They are normally pretty prompt

[F.A.B]

Thank you for the input.
Pictured is the z drive on the left which is not functioning. yes, the A drive looks to be having issues as well. I don't use the rotary for a long time and have not checked if it still works.
The X slave drive looks to going the same way as well, and maybe the Y drive.

So Pete yes it looks like it is the same windings on all the drives.
When you talk about the stepper readings, what should they be?
I have reached out to PMDX but not Gecko I will do now thou,

[xraydude]

I saw very similar issues with one of my 133 boards as well. One day my slave X quit working. The terminal block on J2 looked a little crispy. The only thing I could find were sketchy crimp on connectors at that terminal. I pulled the terminal block, cleaned the pins, replaced the block with a new one and replaced the crimp connectors. No problems since. The other time I saw this involved a lame brained accidental injection of 120v mains into my wiring harness, but I am sure nobody is dumb enough to do that but me.

Ted

[F.A.B]

Ted

Thanks for the reply. I talked to an electronics mate today, he is of the same opinion. He said those connector are prone to dry poor connections. And they don't like high current. So I will check current draw but the resistor should limit that. He also mentioned they offen have dry solder joints on the back of the board pins.

I hope it has not damaged the gecko...

[Robert M]

I second Pete's advise.....
Give PMDX a call or message, best to deal with them.....1St....They now a thing or two :p

Best of luck ;0)

[lonestaral]

Hello Mich.
I sent you a p.m. a while back.
Unfortunately I will not get to Darwin this year.

I have no advice to offer with your problem:o

[F.A.B]

So I contacted PMDX about the burnt boards...
Within the day I have this response and new boards on freight.


The problem that shows in your photo is caused by failing contacts in the connector. The electrical waveform from a stepper driver is similar to that of a plasma cutter and if the connector is not making good contact, it will suffer from severe arcing that is sustained by the waveform.

The connectors chosen by Geckodrive for the G2XX series drivers are rated for 10 amperes, but in practice they have a higher than desirable failure rate.

The things that you can do to minimize the problem are:

1) Do not plug and unplug them unnecessarily, thus weakening the spring contacts.

2) Mount the drives and tie down the cables such that machine vibration does not shake the connectors.

Be sure to also check the connector on the bottom of the PMDX-133 and on the Geckodrives. If there are signs of overheating there, you should clean the pin headers on the Geckodrives with a mild abrasive such as an ink eraser.

I wish there was a magic bullet to solve this issue, but I am not aware of one.


The new boards arrived here yesterday fitted them today and all is back running.
I must give a big shout out to Steve from pMDX, I could not ask for more from them.

[jhiggins7]

Mich,

I really appreciate your sharing the resolution of the problem including the E-Mail from PMDX. As you mentioned, the PMDX support is exceptional.

It's interesting that PMDX mentions "vibration" as a possible cause of the difficulty. I notice that your control boxes are mounted on the table as opposed to being mounted on the wall. I remember that Gerald recommended against mounting the control box on the table. I have even considered moving my control box from the wall to the table because of cable management issues and cable lengths. Given your experience and PMDX's E-Mail, I'm no longer considering moving my control box.

[F.A.B]

John
just a little background on my machines resent history that may give cause to this issue.
This machine has only run for around 10hrs since a 1000km road trip bolted to the floor of a shipping container over the last three years. I would lay money on that three-year trip being a far greater course of vibration and loose connections than the box being mounted to the machine.
I will, however, keep a closer eye on the control boards than I have done in the past.

[jhiggins7]

Mich,

I'm sure you're right. Thank you for the additional information about your machine's history. I've moved mine too. I'm going to take the hint and check my connections.