Cutting Some Signs! #95 - Mystic, CT

[alan254]

Here the basics and of my machine and a few pictures of my control panel I have thus far.
Will post some of machine shortly.
Started on 4/09
PK296A2A-SG7.2 motor on order
Half coil
PMDX 122 should have gone to 126 for more inputs, will have to double some
203v controllers
AC tech VDF 5hp
Mech 3 programming 13032

13033
ELO monitor
IBM computer
Power supply 40V
RLP-104 relay 12 volt
AM1-AN-4H sensors
Undecided on spindle and program to produce drawings yet
Looking for suggestions

Thanks

Al

[alan254]

13037

13038

13039

13040

[Surfcnc]

Hi Al

Thanks for sharing some photos of your machine.
You may have taken a while but everything you have done seems to be very thorough indeed.
I am still marvelling at the size of the capacitor you have used for the power supply.
It looks like the machine might run for 10 mins after dropping the power off. :D

Don't sweat the small stuff too much and punch on to get a running machine, perfection can always come later.
Initially the PMDX 122 break out board should do you fine but the newer PMDX 126 does have some nice features esp. when wiring the proximity switches.

Regards
Ross

[alan254]

Hi all.

Now have control panel hooked up table secured and emblems on. It took a little time to figure out the program. That is to make everything work properly. It now homes properly. I think, at least it says all zeros when it is done. Still not sure about OEM codes. I put in one something and I run and the codes seem to be something different. I quess it has a mind of it's own, BUT IT CUTS AIR SMOTHLY.

This week I i have to decide on a spindle leaning towards a 5 hp colombo, boy what a difference in price from the chinese spindles. Are they really worth the difference?

Does anyone have a resiterable copy of "Aspire with Vcarve" they would like to sell?

I would like to thank all for the help on this site. It's been fun and with all your help and advise I will soon have a great finished machine.

Thanks all

Al

[Surfcnc]

Here are the codes for Feedhold and Resume.

13068

Regards
Ross

[alan254]

Hi Ross,

I am using those external buttons and they work fine. But, where are the jog codes shown on your screen come from. My machine seem to change what put in but in codes for Z-- Z++ and so no change to different numbers than what I enter.The machine stop on the broken signal and it does zero the x & y property, don't have the z hooked up yet. I just how the codes create themselves maby i shouldn't care it works, just would like to know.

Al

[Surfcnc]

The jog codes come over on the default install of Mach3 and do not need to be manually entered.
Hope this is a sufficient explanation, it sure is an easy one:D.

Ross

[alan254]

l guess less knowing is better at this stage, thanks.

Al

[domino11]

Al, what size main beams are you using? They look a little taller than stock.

[alan254]

they are the standard 8"

al

[Gerald D]

I think the last photo is compressed in the x direction?

[Alan_c]

Pic is distorted, check out the oval blade on the Porter Cable Chop Saw (sitting on top of a vintage Work Mate - also designed by a South African ;) )

[alan254]

Not sure how to properly size images. Some day? I am learning.

Does anyone have a design for a colombo spindle?

Leaning to an RS 90 CPE 25.

al

[smreish]

I purchased my spindle, drive and pre-wired cable bundle from Blurry customs. They are a forum member and have pretty great customer service.

[Gerald D]

The Mate in MechMate was borrowed from the Mate in WorkMate ;)

[alan254]

What kind of mounting bracket/plate is required to mount the RS 90 spindle.

Does some one have a good design ?

Al

[smreish]

Al,
I used the interface plate shown in the drawing. The end of the z-slide is designed to be modular. I personally made a 8" x 4" x 3/8" alum plate that had the proper tapped holes, countersunk holes and hardened roll pins to register to the z-slide. I going to see if I can find a picture to post from my build documents.
The Columbo and HSD have tapped holes, so the interface plate was required to properly mount.

Sean

[alan254]

sounds easy . picture would be nice

Thanks

Al

[smreish]

13070

[alan254]

That is how i have my z-slide drilled.

Sounds like I just need a 3/8" flat plate to so the spindle will clear the v rollers. One bolt is enough to secure the mount to the z- slide with the two pins. Than, four bolts will secure the spindle to the flat plate.

sounds good thanks

al

[smreish]

Yes,
You have it correct. 4 countersunk bolts to mount plate to spindle. The 3/8" plate is either tapped and you thread through the z-slide to it. I personally tapped and countersunk the 3/8" plate and used a fully threaded bolt to act like a stud. I threaded the bolt into the plate, set with threadlocker, then mounted the spindle over the now threaded bolt. (it is then covered up by the spindle). I used a single, NYLOC on the draw bolt for the backer nut.

Did that make sense? LOL

[alan254]

very much so

thanks

[alan254]

Hi Sean,

I have ordered my spindle from Blurry customs. RS90.

In the lay out of mounting plate, if I keep the 3/8" plate even with the bottom of the z slide and drill the holes near the top that will put the bottom of the collet nut about 8" off the table. The z slide is now10". Does that sound rite or should it be higher?

Al

[smreish]

13076

It's hard to see, but I put my mounting plate about flush.
8" is about right.

[alan254]

Here some close up pictures of several things that might be of interest.

Mounting plate for RS90 spindle. I just cut a slot in the head of the bolt and added a piece of metal ( piece of an allen wrench )to lock the bolt from turning, the epoxied it in.

My z-stop sensor, this senses the gas shock and is easy to remove and adjust. This location shouldn’t interfere with the spindle or the dust collection system, I hope>>>>

The transition from the e-chain to the conduit to my control panel.
13086

13087

13088

13089
These two simple bends could for the z-slide and the e-chain could be helpful if added to the bend parts list.

Al

[smreish]

Alan,
That looks like a nice spindle adapter plate.
I like your positive "stud" draw bolt. The epoxy should work well.

[alan254]

Well, I received spindle and installed it, Programmed my VFD all went fine. Started to warm up spindle, ran fine then went into reset. Sometimes five minutes sometimes two, sometimes ten. Read on>>>> then found a section on de-bouncing. Set it to 1000 ran fine. What should the de-bounce bounce setting be?

Still trying to cut air.

Getting like chatter from the slave on x-axes almost like it is stopping and being dragged along. But, only sometimes. Seems to home 2 axes fine properly. Enough for one day>>> read on tomorrow and play on some more tomorrow.

Hope to be cutting this weekend.

Al

[smreish]

De-bounce settings are a mystery for the most part.
With that blurry customs set up you have (which is like machine #28 for me) the de-bounce was incremented by 100's until the e-stop/stop flutter was stable. I just checked my old Mach 3 xml file and I have it set at 1200.

That slave axis dragging could be interference from the spindle causing step/direction inputs to get conflicting signal. Make sure all your spindle related wiring is well away from the geckos.

Is your VFD being controlled via contact closure from MACH or via rs-232?

Sean

[alan254]

Hi Sean,

I tried the de-bounce at 100 and all went away and ran fine, Then i read in the trouble shooting section to set it at 1000 so i did. still ran fine. Is there any benifit to lower the value for our application?

The a motor did this once and a wile usually during joging long distances. It hasn't done it at all during the trial cuts of air.

Al

[smreish]

No real difference except if the signal noise was interfering with the estop/stop circuit, then you may have to push-and-hold the stop button longer for an initiation of the stop. This should have no affect on the e-stop because those buttons are held contact when pushed, not momentary. The de-bounce number is changing how often MACH samples the line for a signal. Before de-bounce, you looked at it every sample - now it's looking for a hard signal every 100 signals, or whatever the setting is.

Does that help?

[alan254]

Hi Sean,

Yes it did.

In Mech 3 “general config setup” I turned on “set slave with master axis” the dragging seems to have gone away.

On that screen there is a field charge pump on in e stop. Should that be on?

Spindle now stays on at rest. When cutting woodpecker in air the spindle did out and the program kept right on moving as if it was cutting. I will play with de-bounce some more and keep on trying things.

Al

[alan254]

A little more experimenting. I start by turning on the spindle with the vfd, I execute a program it hits a command line with a "M3" and the spindle shuts down and the program continues.

Lost again.

al

[timberlinemd]

M3/M5 codes are On/Off for spindle. Try leaving the spindle off and see if it comes on when you get the first M3 code (spindle ON)

[alan254]

cannot do that since i am using the relay on the pmdx-122 to turn on the vdf, I can rewire this so the load contactor stays on and the relay only starts the spindle within the vdf. Then have the e-stop turn off the contactor and the bob to start and stop the spindle. If you think that will be better.

Thanks

Al

[timberlinemd]

I do not own a spindle (yet), so my contactor is wired so the BOB (G540) turns the router on with a M3 code and off with a M5 code (setup in Mach3). Without a VFD & spindle of my own I'm out of my element.

[bradm]

What are the connections from your PMDX-122 to the VFD? Contact closure only? Or speed control as well? What is your VFD programmed to do on contact closure? Start up or shut down?

If you're only doing contact closure, then it sounds to be like you either need to invert the pin value, or adjust the VFD programming, because you are getting a stop instead of a start.

[alan254]

Hi Brad,

PMDX-122 - J7 - no- contact closes and pulls in contactor coil, contactor energizes the VDF. That is all I have at this time. I start the spindle from the VFD.

One step at a time. lot to learn I will play later.
I could go in and edit the code and take out the M3 command, but would like to make it run properly.

I am willing to rewire the contactor coil into e-stop and tie the relay on the PMDX so it will be only act a reset if that is the correct way to go.

I would like it correct.

The main question is. Should the VDF contactor keep the vdf live.Then for a reset/stop stop the spindle and a true e-stop drop contactor from suppling the VFD.

If the VFD is de-enedgized, I believe, also lose the ramp down / breaking of the spindle. Not safe.

thanks

AL

[alan254]

edited out the M3 code all ran fine.

now to correct the problem.

al

[bradm]

Generally, you do not want to turn the power supply to the VFD on and off. In fact, I bet your VFD manual says not to place a contactor between the VFD and the breaker.
And never place one between the VFD and motor.

Imagine that the spindle is running at full speed. Now pull the power. Inertia keeps the spindle spinning, and it's now a generator pushing power back at the VFD. However, the VFD doesn't have any control power anymore, so it can't do anything about it.

If the spindle is running at full speed and you tell the VFD to stop, it shunts the power coming from the spindle into a braking resistor (internal for small VFDs; an external device for large ones), and it can bring the bit to a stop much faster than just freewheeling down. It also prevents any power transients and spikes that arise from breaking open a contactor under load.

So the VFD should be on all the time that the machine is on. You should use the relay to provide contact closure to the VFD as a start/stop signal.

If you want speed control, we can discuss a simple circuit to do that.

[alan254]

I will change that tomorrow. Yes, I would like programing and / or Mech3 to turn on and off and speed would be nice. I do appriciate all the help and hpoe I can help others in in the learning process.

Thanks,

al

[Gerald D]

Brad, there is typically a contactor on the VFD input, but this is used for the morning switch-on, evening switch-off and e-stop only. It is not used for starting up the spindle every time you make a cut.

[KenC]

Anyway, I don't know what other VFD does, but if you put a relay in front of the my type of VFD, it won't start the spindle (not in a million years) & it can't switch off the spindle at the instant you cut the power to the VFD...

[alan254]

Hi Gerald,

That was my originally thought on how to wire a VFD.

Thought this site some say E-stop and >>>> some say E- stop meaning what I would call a reset. Maybe we should call a RESET a reset a not E-stop and an E-stop an E-stop.

At least, being a novice, the like terminology confuses me on occasions, as I am sure it does others.

This stop/reset example of how I made error in judgment error since we never make mistakes.

I am offering this in a positive way, this is a great site.

Thanks,

Al

[Gerald D]

(E)mergency-stop is only used for smoke, flames, blood and screams.

[TechGladiator]

(E)mergency-stop is only used for smoke, flames, blood and screams.

Do those screams include the ones from the wife yelling to get other things done instead of playing with the machine?:)

[WTI]

Anyway, I don't know what other VFD does, but if you put a relay in front of the my type of VFD, it won't start the spindle (not in a million years) & it can't switch off the spindle at the instant you cut the power to the VFD...

Depending on your VFD, a large braking resistor can be installed that can stop the spindle within a half turn (so they say, I have no way to measure that).

The braking resistor on one of our mills looks like the coil from an electric stove (it could well be). The moment you hit the E-Stop, the VFD dumps all the power into that coil.

Check your VFD owners manual on installing and sizing a braking resistor.

[WTI]

My dad says that braking resistors in mills used for tapping will stop the spindle in a quarter turn - but you are tapping much slower than milling.

He says a 1 second stop time might be a more realistic number, maybe longer for a really high speed spindle.

[alan254]

Thanks all.

Made all the wiring changes. Now. I like how the VFD reacts. Made several cuts, like I can cut half of the roadrunner only because I did not recieve my licence from Mech3 and cannot load all the code>>>>> I hope. It cut nice, starts and stops with the code comands M3/M5 commands, can stop and start Spindle on the touch screen.

Now Brad how do I contol the Spindle speed on screen?

Anyway it finally cuts and I think I made a record of the longest build time. tust shy of 36 months

Now comes the hard part How does it run? Hopefully less than 36 months.

Once again thanks all.

Al Drouin

[KenC]

Seems like I didn't get my point clear.
To rephrase.
The VFD display takes about 6 seconds be fore it starts blinking & another 4 seconds for it to get ready for operation after the VFD is connected to external power & to get the spindle turning, one need to press the ON button on the VFD or receive a signal from the PC after the VFD display is ready..

Hence, "if you put a relay in front of the my type of VFD, it won't start the spindle (not in a million years) "

The VFD display will only black-out after about 6~7 seconds after the power supply is disconnected to external power.

Hence,
" it can't switch off the spindle at the instant you cut the power to the VFD..."
& I've not got to the spindle breaking stuff yet...

All this is before we even consider talking about the physical breaking.

[MetalHead]

Pictures , Pictures , Pictures :D !!!

[bradm]

Al, you need an optoisolator, two resistors, one capacitor and a small hobby circuit board. You use a spare output pin from the PC, and treat it as a PWM output; one resistor is the current limiter for the input side of optoisolator; the optoisolator protects the PC and VFD from each other, and the remaining resistor and capacitor form an RC filter on the output from the optoisolator to create a 0-10v control voltage that goes into the VFD.

I'll try to run the actual calculations and draw a circuit picture a little later - I'm not at my desk right now. What is the make and model of your VFD?

[alan254]

Recieved Mech3 licence now>>>> we have a full roadrunner

13101

13102

[timberlinemd]

Show the machine:)

[alan254]

I will do that

[domino11]

He did,

Here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=55658&postcount=2)
and
Here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=55808&postcount=4)

Now all he needs is a serial Number! Congrats Al! :)

[MetalHead]

SaWeeeet - Congrats you get #95 ---- Can I hear 5 more .... I know your out there :D !!!

Nice build !!

[jhiggins7]

Al,

Congratulations on completing your MechMate and earning Serial #95.

Here is the Updated Builder's log (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc).

As a guess, I've included the US MDF sheet size ( 97" X 49" ) as the dimensions. Please let me know the actual cutting dimensions of your MechMate.

Please review your Builder's Log entry and let me know any changes you want to make.

[Red_boards]

Congrats, Al

[bozona1]

Way to go AL

[TechGladiator]

Congrats Al!!.. Nice build...

[alan254]

Good morning,

Today my goal is to make a dust shoe; I designed a base in v-carve. Loaded the file in the machine. Cut shoe and the holes are out of round. I know some where in this site I saw something about out of round holes but can’ t find it know that I need it.

It repeats all cut passes exactly.

I am not sure if it is motor tuning, programming, or noise. I have de-bounce down to 100.

Here is a picture of the piece.

[ATTACH]13116

Al

[obuhus]

Hi, Al

Check up to tighten the screw of gear wheels on shaft of a step motors.

[Gerald D]

Loose grub-screws and too much slack on the z-slide (tighten eccentrics).

[Gerald D]

Dmitriy and I posted together. . . . we have seen those circles before! :)

[alan254]

Thanks

found posts in trouble shooting "out of round holes and read.
i have read and will try this morning

Thanks
al

[alan254]

Found the "A" stepper motor mount was a little to tight and had bound up not allowing the spring to pull it up to enaged with rack in essance running on just the "X" stepper. Grubbers were all tight. Ran a quick cut circle, 3" was off by about 1/16". Much better. On the "Z" one roller in five not making proper contact will adjust play again later today.

Wish I didn't have to work for a living.

Thanks

Al

[Gerald D]

Alan, believe it or not, you quickly diagnosed a "new" cause for bad circles......one of the gantry motors not fully meshed with the racks.

[alan254]

Gerald,

Don't give me that much credit all the help within this site did more than I did.

I tightened up the lose Z roller and it is now cutting to within 2 thousandths across the diamiter.


13117

Thanks

Al

[Polder48]

Hi Al,

Problems solved in 8.15 hr. You should start a bussiness!

[TechGladiator]

@Al; I just had a similar problem to yours today, my small circles ( 1/2" in diameter) do not look like circles, but 3 and 4" circles look almost perfect (notice I said *almost*). I been fighting the correct "Pulses Per" setting within Mach3 and tomorrow I am going to look at all the springs and Z rollers as never thought about looking at the Z..

[cncb]

Nice machine Al, congrats! I am not too far away from you in lower fairfield county.

[alan254]

Been away for a wile.

Brian you are welcome to come to Mystic anytime.

Miguel I did have a a miner problem and I tightened up the springs a little and sprayed the nylon washers with lubricant and all was fine. Do check setscrews on the gears i had to put locktite on mine.

al

[domino11]

Al,
Are you using two set screws 90 deg apart or just the one? I think Gerald had recommended that at one point.

[alan254]

Heath,

I am just using one set screw on the flat of the shaft it's been ok for about 15 hours cutting so far will do more cutting this week now that I am back. If I have a problem again I will add another.

[Gerald D]

If your motor shaft only has one one flat face, don't be shy to file/grind another one 90 degrees away.

[alan254]

It has only one flat now. If I have any trouble at all it will be done.

Thanks Al

[Surfcnc]

Alan

You could also put another two grub screws at 90 and 180 degrees to the original grub screw on the flat.
What this gives is three points where the grub screws load against the stepper shaft.

Look carefully at post 708 on my thread http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=56090&postcount=708 and you can see the way the grub screw bites into the stainless shaft.
The other grub screws are biting in "on the round" and will miss the shaft on the "sides" opposing the direction of rotation.
This means that they will not resist the rotation as well as the screw on the flat but it will provide a good extra measure of fixing anyway.

Somewhere on the forum a member posted "do them up, undo them, then do them up again" as a method of seating the screw.
Good advice when you see how they cut into the stainless steel.

Ross

[alan254]

A few things I have been cutting. Learning>>>



13208

13209

13210


AL

[darren salyer]

Great work.

[alan254]

Brad, a wile ago you said you may have a drawing for a spindle speed control.

I think I am ready for the next step. Spindle speed control. My VDF is a AC Tech Model # M 12100c .

Does controler work on the Mech 3 screen or does it need modification?

Thanks in advance

Al

[alan254]

Hi all,

Here are a few more things I have been cutting. 13235

thanks al

[alan254]

Hi all,

I guess it is time to add a 4axis to my machine. I have just purchased a PK296A2A SG36 to drive the indexer, yet to be built.

I am currently running a PMDX 122 and I am not current with the new BOBS.

Is it easier to leave the current BOB in place and just add an additional PMDX122 of is there a better way to get the additional driver output needed?

I am also running Geko G203v drivers if that helps.

Thanks

Al l

[domino11]

Al,
You should be able to drive it all with the 122. With the203v drivers you can use one output from the 122 to drive two 203 stepper inputs (for the x) that will free up the other A output for your indexer.

[alan254]

Heath,

When you say that I can run both my x motors from on one output say J1on the PMDX122since both motors should be in step but in different directions by calling one a slave in Mech 3?

That will make to easy. we need to complicate it

[domino11]

Al,
No you would only use the X output in mach3. The step and direction signals get wired to two 203s .
You will have to flip the output phases of one motor to get it to run in the right direction.
The A output in Mach is now free for the 4th axis. There have been a few people here who have done it this way.
Probably a good idea to drop your motors for the x axis when trying all this out to make sure you have them
rotating in the proper directions before hooking them up to the rack.

Note though that this approach is driver dependent. If the drivers you are using have too much input current draw, then the 122 output will not be able to drive them. This is not a problem with the 203V from what I have read from posts from Mariss.

[smreish]

...I'll hop in as the "guy that has done this".

Al,
On the PMDX
Use the outputs as follows

j1 - x left and x right
j2 - y
j3 - z
j4 - a axis

As Heath mentioned, you will need to share the step/direction signal from the PMDX to the G203V drives. Most likely, you will have to use ferrels or a really tight twist and solder to bond the wires together to fit in the headers on the J1 block. It's a small connection really only made for 1 wire. The manufacturer for both devices have verified that using a PMDX122 and G203V this current output and draw is permissible.

In Mach, you will NO longer slave the x1 to x. You will only have 4 active outputs on the configuration tree. x, y, z and a

Good luck - it's easy...it works.

[alan254]

Thanks

Not use to having things that easy

Will post pictures of the progress when I start construction

Al

[alan254]

Hi All,

Another question to do with 4th axis mounting of motor.

I see many couple the gearhead motor directly to the chuck with apairs to be with only one flang mounted bearing is that enough to support the working loag or should there be two spaced faitly close say 2" appart thus reliving any load directly on the motor/gearbox bearings?

An example of one bearing is shown in this thread.
http://mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3489&postcount=55

Thanks

Al

[pblackburn]

Al,
It all depends on how you want to go about it. Your resolution is the deciding factor. I have read a lot of posts and have seen reductions of 100:1 to 16:1. If this was on a mill you would most definitely want a 40:1 minimum and Zero backlash. With wood, a little backlash will not be as noticeable but should be limited. Spur gears have more backlash than the planetary that Oriental sells and don't soak the bank either. Planetary will have anywhere between 3 and 40 arc minutes but a spur gear will have more than that, probably around 90+. I chose to mount the motor as shown here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=61023&postcount=285) on the side. If your 4th axis has harmonic drive, then a direct mount would would be preferred. You can mount on the side with a 1:1 belt ratio also and leave the option for change later. I would look at buying a zero backlash coupler if direct mount as it will limit any motion you will get from keyways. In the end, it is your design and your choice. There really is no wrong way as long as you assembly it carefully. Sean has one on his machine if I remember correctly.

[alan254]

Hi Pete,

That is what I was thinking of. Only closer together about 2" apart. I have a 36:1 Oriental now from my reading I believe I can adjust the backlash in Mech3. I will be turning wood and no larger than around 6-7" in dia. If there is to much slop I can easily change change it to a belt drive system.

Thanks

Al

[alan254]

Good morning,

I have read a lot on backlash and have no first hand experiance with it.

I was under the impression that I could program out the backlash with Mech 3. Is my thinking correct or not?

Or since I am in the just beging should I just pull the 36:1 gear box off the motor and go directly to timing belts in the same reduction range?

Al

[pblackburn]

You can use the backlash compensation built into Mach to remove it. What it does is rapidly move in the opposite direction the amount you tell it before moving the rest of the axes. It is a little nerve racking to watch and will add time to the program. It would be better in my opinion to shoot for zero backlash and move on from there. I have removed and modified the gearbox motors to work on a belt drive but this is not an easy task. I can be done by not easily. The motor shaft is ground with a spline to adapt to the gearbox. Stepper shafts are extremely hard. I had a choice of grinding the stepper shaft down to remove the spline or use the spline to cut or broach the aluminum pulley. I opted for the broach method and used Loctite 480 retaining compound. But to press the pulley on it has to be controlled and a special pressing block must be made to hold the stepper back side of the shaft from moving inside the motor so you do not damage it well applying the massive force it requires to seat the pulley.

If the motor is unopened and unused, you may be able to do an exchange. You could try it and see how back the backlash is and if you can live with it. Backlash is a funny thing, depending on what you are doing it my not affect you. Wood is forgiving that way as it moves greatly with small amounts of temperature and humidity.

[pblackburn]

Al,
Backlash sucks when it affects you, I can tell you that much.

[pblackburn]

This is 0.0098" Backlash (http://www.flickr.com/photos/pfblackburn/8206693325/)

[alan254]

Hi all it been almost 7 years since i finished building my machine and have had any problems with my machine till now.

The problem is my x drive motor it runs fine then it chatters and louses steps then it runs fine again. I have a new PK296A2A-SG7.2 motor and plan to replace it.

Many moons ago I read that if you are wired to half coil you are only using half of the motor and should there be a problem you can change to another winding. Am I correct and or was i dreaming. I have looked and can no longer find the thread i believed to have read.

Thanks Al

[alan254]

Also if i jog it slow it is fine If I fast jog it acts up Checked all wiring it's fine . I also ordered a new 203v

[alan254]

Found problem. One of the wires supplying the x drive in the wire e chain broke thru the insulation and was occasionally shorting to the outer shield of the cable. Replaced cable no problems in the first three hours of operation.

[Robert M]

Humm...interesting, what brand cable is it ( was it ?!)
Later

[alan254]

This was used cable when i put it in. Now I changed all stepper wires with Southwire from Automation Direct Item code is MCTC-18-45-1

[IamDave]

The first time that happened to me, on my other router. I spent a few hours scratching my head. It is not an uncommon problem. Especially, if you use your machine.

[alan254]

I gets used daily for almost 7 years now

[MarkRH]

Al what are you cutting mostly signs?, a spare wire would be a good diagnostic tool instead of searching for the break.I will be using mic cable until mine (not completed) earns its keep, and expecting to have issues with it.

[alan254]

i cut all kinds of stuff from full table pieced. A lot custom one off items to several hundreds of the same.

I just bought a whole reel of wire for spare parts.

[AlexTup]

Keyaki is the preferred wood for traditional Japanese tables, laquered to a shine that blinds. The wolod also is pretty expensive and getting scarcer every year. I have 5 or 6 slabs stashed away but havent found the time to work on them yet

[alan254]

Today my x axis stopped moving and the x is fine. I am using oriental motors and gecko drivers. The program Mech3 shows it is stepping on the screen.Should I try to change the gecko or the motor first . I have both. Or is there a better way to locate the problem.

Thanks Al

[obuhus]

I had a very similar story on my plasma machine under Mach3. The machine is more than 8 years old today. Everything was working fine. Then it started to malfunction. Then the machine stopped working. I had to take everything apart.

Turned out to be a simple DB9-DB9 cable. One wire had fallen off in it! Only 1 !!! And the machine went down. Replacing the cable solved the problem.

I think you need to check the LPT cable, every wire. And everything around the LPT connectors.

[alan254]

Will look at that . Everything except the x axis it just keeps carving away only in a straight line.

[obuhus]

I'm sure. You can do it!

[OBXCNC]

I have had this single axis problem with my CNC before and what solved the issue for me is tightening the screw/wire connections at the Gecko. I have found that at the beginning of every cold season, I will occasionally have this intermittent problem and going through the box and tightening everything seems to solve the issue.

[alan254]

Unplugged parrell cable from computer and controller cleaned and reinstalled reinstalled . Only had time to run a small project everything ran good. Will run large rojec this week will keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks Al