Cut its first sign! #86 - Valley Grande AL USA

[Rusty Nuts]

Hi everyone, I'm from Valley Grande Alabama. I've been following the post in this forum and have a set of plans from Mike. I had today off so went to town and purchase some of my material to get started. I need to get in touch with Mike to see if he has any laser kits available. I'm posting this first picture as a test. It's a new work bench I built this past week. Went ahead and painted it Mechmate blue:) If it posts alright I'll post some construction photos.

[MetalHead]

Yes - I will have 15 sets soon.

Welcome and enjoy yout build !!

[Rusty Nuts]

Hi Mike, let me me know when you have them in. Can you tell me what size the adjustable feet are so I can go ahead and dill and tap the legs. THANKS

[Rusty Nuts]

The first pics are of a stand I build out of scrap. I put adjustable legs on these stands so that I could build the Mechmate upside down in a good flat plane. Hope to get more work work done tomorrow :)

[aussie_mick]

Gary

Nice going. Keep those pics coming.

Mick

[MetalHead]

1/2-13 - Great PICS keepem comming !!

[Rusty Nuts]

Got some more work in today, would be nice to have an air conditioned shop.

[javeria]

Hi Gary - thats fast and Cool!

[KenC]

Thumbs up! At this rate, you will have it build in record time :D

[234ahmed]

Great progress. Keep up the good work.

[Surfcnc]

I see your super organised with the level building platform, lifting gear and a clean shop.
All signs that that your mechmate will be a quality build - well done.

Regards
Ross

[MetalHead]

Man don't you know it on the AC Shop !! It's freakin hot and the humidity is what kills !! High 80's (oops meant humidity !!!) yesterday and today. I was tryin to work in my shop and gave up because of it. I am going out early today to see if I can be like a frog in water and just heat up with the day :D !!

[KenC]

80's? That is comfortable... Never-ever had day temperature lower than 85F in my part of the world...

[Rusty Nuts]

Hey Mike, you need to shake that thermometer and see if its stuck. It was over 95 here. Maybe you're up in the mountains above B'ham where it's cooler:)

[MetalHead]

Note I meant humidity !!! Guess I need more coffee !!! The temp was 95 !!! Sweat just puddles up and stays everywhere !!! I am sitting here now thinkning of ways NOT to get to work !!! Yes I do still love Alabama, but Montana is soundin good about now !!

[KenC]

That sucks :(

Take shower, that will surely get rid of the body heat for a while... I usually take a shower every 1~2 hour in that sort of heat...

[Rusty Nuts]

I have one more day before I have to go back to work. Need to make some money for the electronics. I will have to do a lot more reading in the forum on that. I have a small cnc router I built years ago with a cutting area of 1 ft X 2 ft and I used Hobby CNC for my electonics. This is going to be a new ball game. Here are some pics of the build.

[Rusty Nuts]

Here is the last day of the 4th of July build. I'm ready to set my table down and turn it over. I will start on my rails next. Haven't found the angle iron deminsions on the plans for the X & Y rails (maybe I'm just blind from all of the welding). Been searching the forum and I believe its going to be 2-1/2" X 2-1/2". Is this correct? Thanks to everyone in the MM fourm for all of the info and help.

[JamesJ]

The rails need to be 2.5 x 1.5 angle iron if you are going to grind your own rails. Dimensions are on plate M1 10 110 of the plans.

[Rusty Nuts]

The rails need to be 2.5 x 1.5 angle iron if you are going to grind your own rails. Dimensions are on plate M1 10 110 of the plans.

Thanks Jim, I just didn't look hard enough. I see on the plans where the maximum height of the angle iron sould be no more than 2". Is the cut off (waste) to be used as a retaining strip to go into the "Y" tubing for the rail bolts? I don't know what size angle iron my suppler stocks. Do you recommend looking for 2.5 X 1.5 to be close to the final grind size and not having to cut any off?

[bradm]

See the rails section of the forum (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=6). IIRC, you're trying to get to 1.1" x 2.5", and you want to start from 2.5 x 1.5 or 2.5 x 2.0 (not 2.5 x 2.5, or you'll have troubles with the skate). And, yes, the cutoffs are useful as clamping plates (particularly if you use 2.5 x 2.0).

[timberlinemd]

To clarify Brads caution about the skate. The grinder disk does not have a big enough diameter to cut through the angle, because the profile of the skate will hit a tall angle leg. 2" or less on one leg will not cause problems.

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks Jim, Brad and Steve for the info on the angle iron. My supplier closes before I get off work in the evening. Will try to leave early before Friday and hopefull get the angle iron if he carries the correct size.

[Rusty Nuts]

I have a friend in the towing business and he came over yesterday evening with a wrecker. He backed up to one end of the MM and I used my hoist on the other end and we turned it over with ease. Didn't have to throw a beer party so I can drink it all myself:)

[KenC]

WOWO~~~ You made it look so easy!!!
Brilliant work!

[hennie]

Gary are you going to use that prop against the wall for cooling in your shop.:)

[Kobus_Joubert]

No man he does not own a broom and will use it as a dust extractor :D

[Rusty Nuts]

Hi Ken I really enjoyed this past weekend. Everything really fell into place. I was really suprised I was able to get so much done. I'm hoping the skate will arrive from Mike tomorrow so I can work on the rails this weekend.

Good idea on the prop, just need to find a large stepper and use a 4th axis. Air conditioning and dust extraction. Anyone want to write the G-code:eek:

[Rusty Nuts]

I took off work a little early Friday to get the angle for my X & Y rails. The supplier only had 2-1/2" X 2-1/2" so I went ahead and brought it. This morning I made a jig to cut it down to 1.125". Worked really well, took 10 discs and made a heck of a mess. Tommorow I Hope to align and mount the X rails then grind the V onto them.

[Rusty Nuts]

Santa came early in July (Mike I know that was you) and brought me some goodies.

[MetalHead]

Ho Ho Ho !! :) I figured I better at least get that skate down to you as fast as your build is going. I don't want to break your stride !! Keep those pictures coming !!!

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks Mike, that was quick service. I'm working on the skate today. Have all the X rails drilled and taped. I should be able to finish the skate after work tomorrow and get the ginding done.

If any one close by is interested, I'm finished with the metal stands which I built my frame on. I'm asking $100. They are built from 5" square tubing with 1 inch leveling bolts. These are real heavy duty and will support a lot of weight. Will post pics if interested.

[Rusty Nuts]

Got started grinding my X rails this afternoon. It was going pretty good till the grinder decided to let the smoke out. I got them down to 2mm but will have to get a new grinder to finish them. This is about as much fun as watching grass grow:)

[KenC]

So you got the magic smoke released!
I reckon they are making steel better than they used to... :p

[Kobus_Joubert]

Go buy a cheap angle grinder...retain the slip...grind your rail...if you see smoke take it back and carry on with the replacement until it smokes...return it and carry on..and on and on.....:D

[bradm]

Yep, angle grinders are consumables. Figure about one grinder per ten disks ;)

Actually, if you want to baby your grinder, the issue is that they simply aren't designed for continuous operation. I used gel packs from the freezer with my second grinder; grind until the motor casing is hot, slap a gel pack on it and do something else for 15 minutes, repeat. But then I like my Milwaukee; I didn't care much about the Harbor Freight that I burned up.

[smreish]

Are you using 36 grit sand paper disks or grinder disks to knock down the 45" degree chamfer?
The sand paper disk with a rigid back goes much quicker......Then the final passes with a real grinder disk.

Good luck....

(I have burned up 2 little grinders in my 3 builds!) LOTS of experience doing "the task"

[Rusty Nuts]

Went to Wally World this afternoon and picked up a new grinder. Lifetime warranty just bring it back:p. They carry Skill, but when I got home I found it would not fit in the hole of the skate. I'll try Marvins or one of the auto parts stores tommorow.

Sean, I used the hard grinding discs. At first I was having problems with it removing metal with each pass. When I looked at the disc I noticed that metal particles were imbeded. Replaced with a new disc and was working great. I could tell a 100% improvement and could tell it was removing metal with each pass. The grinder was loaded with the first pass then it would unload with the next pass before adjusting again. My poor little Black & Decker just wasn't up to all of the passes:eek:

[smreish]

I wrote a little "essay" on the art of grinding the rails down.

IF you TIP the grinder, so the leading edge of the disk is lower than the back (thus had the adjustment screw on the skate lower in the front and higher in the back) the cutting goes quicker without loading the disk material up. Also, the grinder disk doesn't glaze.

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks Sean I'll give it a try. I picked up a Dewalt grinder after work and discovered it had no mounting screws on the disc side so I took it back and got a Black & Decker. I made one pass on one rail, started to make a second pass and the smoke came out:mad: I had another grinder in the shop but the diameter was about 1/2" larger than the hole. I figured I'd butcher the skate and if it didn't work I'd buy another from Mike. Got to keep Mike happy:) So far so good. I was able to finish the X rails tonight. Will do the Y rails this Saturday and mount casters on the bottom of the table. I should be able to leave them on and be able to adjust my leveling feet down and level the table without having to remove the casters.

[MetalHead]

Pawn Shops are a good place to get grinders. I got one the other day for 40 bucks and it is a Milwalkee. I guess I need to offer a line of grinders :D

[KenC]

IMHO, its not the grinder problem... Pushing anything too hard too far for too long will guarantee magic smoke. :)

My grinder survived the rail grinding ordeal & still provide reliable service today.

Just don't let the spark trail go any longer than 3ft, everything will be dandy.

[Rusty Nuts]

I got my casters mounted today, now I'm able to move the MM around and I can get it outside to prime and paint. Got the Y rails and clamp strips drilled. I'll grind them tomorrow. Will try the sand paper glued to a disc.

[Alan_c]

Gary, nice work.

one suggestion, weld plates on the sides of the U that the wheels are bolted to, hit one small bump while moving the machine sideways and they could fold over.

The sandpaper is not glued to the disk, use the standard sanding disk but have a grinding disk as a backup not the normal rubber back up pad one would use with the sanding disks.

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks for the suggestion on the wheel mounts Alan. I went back and looked at them and I beleive they will hold up. They are about 3/16" thick, three times thicker than the casters. The casters will probably fail first. I rolled the frame around the shop over the expansion joints in the concrete and didn't notice any flex in the mounts or the casters. I probably will never move it once I set it up.

I couldn't find any sanding discs with backers of any kind that would fit the grinder (not much places in town to buy from, I usually have to travel about 60 miles to find anything).

I did finish grinding my Y rails and both the X & Y rails are finished and I'm pleased with the results. I'm realy glad that part is over. Hopefully the laser cut kit from Mike will arive soon so I can get most of the mechanical assembly finished. I have ordered my V-rollers from Rick at Superior Bearing with the bushings. I ordered extra concentric and ecentric bushing with the idea of using them on the gantry and Y car. I haven't seen anyone do this and without seeing the gantry and Y car I don't know if it will work, but I will have the bushings just in case.

What has everyone been using to clean the bare metal with before priming and painting? The coating on the metal is really nasty and I'll be glad to get it cleaned and primed. My wife will be happy when my clothes are a little cleaner after working in the shop.

Thanks to Gerald for the great plans. It really saves time and money by not having to do it by trial and error. I'll really need this group when I start with the electonics. I'm trying to decide which steppers (will use 3-1 belt reduction) to get. My plan is to use the PMDX 126, Geckodrive G203V, and An AnTek prebuilt power supply.

Thanks, Gary

[MetalHead]

Gary ,

I can assist you on the electrics also. Just let me know. I have wire, 20x20x10 box, DIN rails etc. I also have motors and can get all the other items.

[KenC]

Mill scale can be a headache in your case, if you are an idealist, you can sand blast the scale off to white metal, but IMHO, don't see any benefit in doing anything more than a quick power brush.
For metal preparation, I gave the steel a power brush treatment with my trusty grinder, blow-off the dust & debris with a blow gun than rub it down with soap water+rag, & finally paint thinner+rag to remove possible oil stains. :)
For the electronics, if you are like me, an electronic idiot, you should read up as much as you could while waiting for the laser parts... Even if you buy a complete kit for the electronics, you'll still need to do plenty of learning before getting on the way.

[MetalHead]

You can wash it down with a degreaser like GUNK. Or wipe it down with some other solvent like Paint Thinner. When you get to painting I always recommend a smalll foam roll brush and a small plastic paint cut. This way you con toss the disposables at the end of each day.

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks for the metal prep info. I plan to do some priming this coming weekend. My 2 X 4 tubing for the gantry came in this afternoon so I will pick it up after work tomorrow.

Mike, I'll get with you soon on the electronics. Which motors do you stock? Also any date when the laser cut parts will be in?

The photo is a test cut I did tonight into a scrap piece of 24" X 16" plywood. I will do the final cut into a piece of oak the same size but about 2" thick. The person I'm cutting it for is going to inlay it into a church kitchen counter top. I drew it up in VCarve Pro and used a 60 degree v-bit and a 1/4" spiral end mill. With the MM I can do much larger projects:cool:

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

I'm going to cut my Y tubing tomorrow after work and would like to verify the cut lenght.

My measurement from outside edge to outside edge of the C channel on the table is 66" (Y cutting width 49" + 17" = 66").

If I'm reading the drawing correctly for the Y tubing cut (Y cutting width 49" + 19.7" =68.7").

I shoud cut them to a lenght of 68.7" (68.75"). That is 2.75" wider than the outside measurement of the C channels.

I just don't want to cut a $85.00 tube too short, plus the fact it was ordered for me because it was not a stock item where I purchased it from.

Thanks
Gary

[KenC]

Gary,
You are on the right track. the Y-tubes length are correct.

[Rusty Nuts]

Friday evening UPS drove up and delivered the laser cut kit from Mike and the V-rollers from Superior Bearings. Thanks guys. I built the grantry and Y-car today and hope to get the cable brackets mounted and start on the paint tomorrow. Any volunteers for the painting, I hate to paint. Here are a few pics.

[Rusty Nuts]

Finished painting my main pieces this past week but haven't done any work this weekend. My wife just retired and is doing hand turned pottery full time now. We ordered a tent this past week for her to use at craft shows and we decided to practice putting it up Sat. morning. Well in the process of assembling the poles I pulled my back and can't hardly move around.

I did a post in the motor section today to get feed back on my selections. Feel free to comment. I don't want to make an expensive mistake on things I don't know about.

I just noticed that I have the grantry turned the wrong way:D

[MetalHead]

Purdy :D. Take care of that back !!!

[Rusty Nuts]

Here is a list of materials used on my build so far:

1 ea: 8" C-Chanel........................Top Supports

3 ea: 3" C-Chanel........................Spoil Board Support

1 ea: 2" Sq Tubing 1/4" wall thickness...................Legs

7 ea: 1-1/2" Sq Tubing.......................Framing

1 ea: 2" X 4" Tubing...........................Granty

2 ea: 2-1/2" X 2-1/2" X 1/4" Angle Iron (couldn't get 2-1/2 X 2).........Rails

Scrap pieces for closing 8" C-Chanel 1/4" thick

Scrap pieces for bottom of legs 3/8" thick

Scrap 5" tubing cut in half for casters to bolt to

4 ea: all metal medium duty casters

Laser cut kit and belt reducer plates from Mike

V-Rollers from Superior Bearings

[servant74]

P... I guess I need to offer a line of grinders :D

Yep, either that never ware out or a GUARANTEED for at least 2 MM builds :D

[bradm]

Hmm. I'm thinking maybe a water cooling setup for the grinder that can be reused for the spindle once the machine is built?

Or a spindle based grinder for getting the job done in a third the time? ;)

(Safety note: never exceed the rated speed of a grinding disk or cutting wheel, they can become shrapnel).

[Rusty Nuts]

Water cooled grinder sounds like the way to go. I need water cooling for myself, it's just too hot to do much. I got a little more done today, rail stops made and installed, idler bearing shaft made and the six standoffs for the Z plate bearing.

Mike, if you read this do you know the center to center dimension between the stepper pulley and the driven pulley in the belt reducer plates I got from you? I calculated 2-7/8 inches with them close together before tensioning.

Gary

[Gerald D]

In the typical spindle, the only copper windings are in the stator coils and the water jacket can be close to that - water cooling works here.

In a budget hand grinder, the rotor is also wound with copper wire, and you can't get water cooling in there.

Simply buy high quality grinders with high rated power outputs and then don't overload them. The folk who have burned grinders are in the minority - most of us don't burn them.

[KenC]

Any grinder can last for ever, as long as you don't over load them or dip them into a bucket of water for cooling... :p

[Rusty Nuts]

Got the rails and track mounted today and discovered that the Y-car is hitting the stop blocks. Will have to grind about an 1/8" off the car at the spots it is hitting. I order a lenght of 1/2 drill rod to use in the gearbox builds. Cold roll 1/2" rod is .001" under and I didn't like the fit of the pinions and bearing on it, just felt too loose for me. Hopefully the drill rod will arrive the first of the week and I'll get started on them.

Gary

[KenC]

Almost ready to make some dust real soon!

[MetalHead]

Can we see a few more shots of the stop blocks? You should not need to shim them out. What OM Motors are those? I may have missed that earlier in the thread?

[smreish]

Gary,
Note that the stop blocks for the Y CAR and the X Gantry are DIFFERENT heights. Noted in the drawings, you will find they are about 1/4" lower than the others.

[Rusty Nuts]

Sean,

Your right, I used the X rail measurements for all of my stops:eek: Instead of redoing them I just grinded the the Y car to clear them. This afternoon I have found another problem, the idler bearing lacks about 1/16" contacting the bottom of the angle rail. The stub shaft is hitting the bottom of the Y car. I made the stub shaft per drawing and have the correct bearing. I may have to grind this area of the Y car too. Any thoughts?

Mike,

The motors are PK299-4.5A. I'm going to go 3 to 1 belt reduction (60 tooth and 20 tooth gears) with a 20 tooth pinion.

Gary

[smreish]

The idler bearing clearance is very close to begin with if all goes well. Did you place the pivot end of the swing arm in the right hole? The rail grinding height has a direct impact on this clearance. If you ended up with 1.2 inches instead of 1.125, then that sounds about right (I know - I was off by just a little) Just grind a little "crescent" area where the shaft impacts the y-car. Very common "adjustment"

[Rusty Nuts]

Sean,

I did as you suggest and the contact is good with the rail now. I was curious as to my rail height so I miked them and have a height of 1.107".

Gary

[smreish]

Sounds like your fine.
A little bit here and there can add up to the difference.
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it!

[Rusty Nuts]

I've been busy again this weekend. Got three fo my gearboxes welded up. I'm waiting to do the last one because I may have to change the angle a little.

Mike, I cut the tabs off of the gear box plates made spacer jigs and then welded new tabs to them. I also bored the bearing holes to fit larger bearings (1/2" ID X 1-3/4" OD). I'm using drill rod for the pinion shafts. I used the drill rod through the bearings to do my alignment before welding.

They were throwing out cable chain at work so I was able to get two rolls. I have enough left over to probably do four more MM. There were no ends so I made them out of aluminum angle.

Mike could you let me know what wire you have and the price.

[smreish]

Throwing out Cable chain? I'll buy some! Send me a PM if interested.

[MetalHead]

Cable 20 Gauge - F-CY-JZ - Helukabel

8 core 1.37 per foot
4 core .93 per foot

I sell it in lenghts

85 foot of the 8 Core - $116.45
170 foot of the 4 core - $158.10

No cut charge

Shipping $25.00

I can add length to the amounts if needed. I just order it so I have these "kit" lenghts.

[Rusty Nuts]

Got a question about the wire run to the router. Is it OK to to run ext. cord wire such as 16ga (16/2 w/ground) or do I need to use a shielded wire?

Thanks, Gary

[smreish]

No shield necessary, but I would recommend 14 gauge MIN. for the router. This is a high current device and has high starter current draw.

[Rusty Nuts]

Parts from Mike to start kitchen table project:)

[Rusty Nuts]

Antek and PMDX goodies:cool:

[Rusty Nuts]

Getting started on the kitchen table project:D

[MetalHead]

Your a machine !!! Looks great !!

[Rusty Nuts]

Well after my reading mistake, see motor post, I'm back on track. My wife said I was spending too much time in the shop:confused: Got the gearboxes finished and installed, pulled the wiring less limit swithches, and mounted the control box. Tomorrow this baby will move on it's own. Still have to build the Z assembly. My tool steel plate came in but UPS must have used it for pry bar:eek: Will try to straighten as soon as the wiring is complete.

[KenC]

Love the way you expose the heat sink fins to the atmosphere.
Free up lots of real estate in the control panel too. I like!

[Rusty Nuts]

Love the way you expose the heat sink fins to the atmosphere.
Free up lots of real estate in the control panel too. I like!

Got the idea from the PMDX web site. Will not require a cooling fan with this set up. I originally planned to include the computer in the cabinet but am undecided now. May try it later. When I get the Z assembly built I will be using a router at first but will get a spindle to quiten the MM down.

Gary

[danilom]

Were there no other options then to mount the Ycar motor that way?
It could interfere with some tall pieces or clamps

[MetalHead]

Yes,

You can rotate the flange as seen here.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=47281&postcount=7

But a cut and reweld would be needed :(

[Rusty Nuts]

Were there no other options then to mount the Ycar motor that way?
It could interfere with some tall pieces or clamps

I didn't know it was going to hang so low when I welded them up. I did have to change the A drive geabox because it only had about 1/8" clearance between the cable chain and the motor. Will go back and redo the Y car soon.

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

It's alive:D Got the motors wired up and the steps calibrated. Measured the movement with a dial indicator and the travle was off +0.008". Use the auto calibrate setting in Mach and got it dead on. Maximum speed with 25,000 kernal was about 750 ipm. I bumped the kernal to 35,000 and was able to get over 1000 ipm. The steppers even sounded smoother, so I left it at 35,000 and limited the top speed to 900 ipm.

I have to tell on myself. When I first pressed the arrow key for the X axis the accel. setting was too high. The grantry jumped off the rails and got my attention fast:eek: The gear reducers really give the MM a lot of torque.

Tomorrow I will wire the switches on the remote. I know how to wire the E-stop with NC switches in series but I dont know about setting the pause and start push buttons. I believe these are wired in parallel with momentary NO switches. Will check the posts tonight to see how to set them up and how to defined the pin setting.

[Rusty Nuts]

Got a question.

I am planning on wiring my E-stop to control the mains contactor. This will kill power to the BOB, the router contator, and the power supply. Is there an advantage to using the E-stop circuit on the BOB? I believe the onboard relay can control the mains contractor to shut it down but what advantage would this give. It looks like more wiring just to use the BOB E-stop circuit. If there is an advantage please let me know so I can decide which way to go.

Gary

[234ahmed]

Hello Gary,
Great progress you have there. I wish you all the best.
AFAIK the only adv. for using E-stop circuit on the BOB is the feedback given to mach3 if the e-stop was pressed then mach3 makes an emergency stop as if you hit the Esc button in your Keyboard.

Ahmed

[KenC]

WELL DONE! Now you got yourself a runaway Mechmate!!! :)

There are definitely some advantage to have the E-stop circuit interface with the
BOB. but it also depend on how much blink-blink you want...

During my built, I just want to get to the point where I could have a functional Mechmate soonest... so I had all the bare minimum for safe operation & skipped the limit switches, the E-stop to BOB interface... etc. As time went by... It becomes more & more of a struggle to even look at these KIV items...:p
Especially after I found figured out a simple way to Zero my X-Y position manually with a battery operated cross-hair laser double-sided taped to the Y-car...

I also intended to integrate the PC mobo into the control panel... but I eventually swallowed my pride & have a separate PC on an old PC table on castors to save me from more sleepless nights...

BTW, with a separate PC, you only have to run a single length of printer cable instead of a whole bundle which made up of cables for the keyboard, the Monitor & the mouse for the least.That can be a huge PITA when you have wood dust flying all over the place.

[Rusty Nuts]

Z assembly finished and installed. Still need to find a cylinder and make the router mount. Need to do a little touch up on securing the wiring and bolting the table top down. It won't be long before its covered with saw dust:cool:

Has anyone got the mounted deer head dxf (made like the dinosaur skeletons) or know where I can get it.

Gary

[danilom]

Open this list of all the files in a cnczone thread, look for Deer Head

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/misc.php?do=showattachments&t=5276

download as much as you wish :)

[Rusty Nuts]

Open this list of all the files in a cnczone thread, look for Deer Head

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/misc.php?do=showattachments&t=5276

download as much as you wish :)

Thanks, thats a lot of files.

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

Been busy again. Brought a new router with speed control and 1/4" & 1/2" collets. It was on sale, saved $60. Built the router mount and set up the built in relay on the BOB to turn the router on and off with the g-code. I was planning on mounting an e-stop button on the Y car to diconnect the router while changing bits but I have now decided to just use the switch on the router. I straightened the wiring up some more and secured it. Still have to bolt the table top down and add the spoil board. Few more odds and ends to take care of and it will be ready to go to work. I couldn't wait any longer, so I tried it out.

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

More pics

[Alan_c]

Well done Gary, logo and dust, looks like we have another member of the family - time for a number!

Just be wary of using the BOB relay to switch the relativly large load of the router, its always safer to add another relay (seperate from the BOB so if anything goes wrong it does not affect the BOB) that controls the Router, this second relay is controlled by the one on the BOB but has a very small load. This second relay is also very easy to replace if the need arises.

See here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=401&page=7) in posts 182 and 203, the relay is on the blue din rail holder near the bottom of the box - that was when I still had the Bob Cambell board with the seperate relay board - that board did not work for me so I changed to CNC Direct board (this one has relays on the BOB) that worked much better.

[MetalHead]

Yes !! Paint, Logo, Dust !!! You get #86 !!! Congrats on a speedy build !! Keep us posted on the final setup steps and lets see some projects !! What did you do that sign with?

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks Allen. I had installed a seperate relay on the dins rail for the router but after reading the PMDX manual I decided to use one of the onboard relays. The one I'm using is rated for 30 amps and has MOV to suppress the arc when closing and opening under a load. Time will tell. Still will have to wire up a dust collection system and may use the relay on the dins for that. I looked at some collectors yesterday while at the Woodcraft Store. Couldn't bring one home because I was on a motorcycle:D

I did discover that I will need some type of pendant or maybe a wireless key board to zero the material on the MM. Anyone got any suggestions. Would also like to try a touch screen monitor, is anybody having any sucess with these?

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

Yes !! Paint, Logo, Dust !!! You get #86 !!! Congrats on a speedy build !! Keep us posted on the final setup steps and lets see some projects !! What did you do that sign with?

Thanks Mike. It was cut out of a piece of the cheap grade 3/4" plywood. Kind of like luan with a very thin outer skin. I use a 1/4" downspiral end mill for the pocketing and a 90 degree V-bit. It was drawn up in VCarve Pro. The design under the lettering was take from one of the demo files and modified to fit. The sign was cut out on the MM with tabs being cut loose by a box knife.

I'm going to cut some Harley Davidison coasters out this afternoon from some of the man made decking boards and also some from cypress. Will post some pics. I better not get too carried away with cutting or I'll never complete the MM. I don't need to leave loose ends undone because I'll just keep putting them off as I'm having fun now:cool:

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

Allen, forgot to mention that is one really neat control box. I going to go back through your posts and read more.

A big thanks to Gerald too. I was having trouble with the pause and start switches and did as Gerald had posted and was able to get them working. A big thanks to Gearld for the great design and for him sharring all of this. And to everyone who takes the time to post and share their knowledge. With out this group the MM would not be what it is.

Gary

[KenC]

Happy days!

[JamesJ]

Gary
If you are using Mach3 I can recommend the xbox 360 wireless controller with great results. Plugin and instructions here (http://www.machsupport.com/plugins.php)
You will also need a xbox wireless controller receiver that you can get here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Xbox-360-Wireless-Controller-Receiver-USB-PC-White-/200622305709?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb60571ad). I'm not related to or suggesting you use this particular vendor. I had a good experience when I ordered from them.
Install the xbox wireless controller receiver first then follow the plugin instructions.

[jhiggins7]

Gary,

Congratulations on completing your MechMate and earning Serial #86.

Here is the Upated Builder's Log (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&hl=en_US).

Please review your entry and let me know any changes you want to make. Also, please let me know the dimensions of your MechMate for the record.

[danilom]

For pendant you can look in PoKeys, with it you can connect lots of switches buttons leds mpg and lcd display, also analog stick from joypad as I did for jogging x and y and mpg for Z.

[smreish]

Nils and I use a shuttle pro for control. Works really well and has removable buttons you can label.

http://retail.contourdesign.com/?/products/5 (http://retail.contourdesign.com/?/products/5)

[Rusty Nuts]

Happy days!

Hi Ken, it's going to be hard to leave the shop and go into the house. Just too many projects and things to try.

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

Gary,

Congratulations on completing your MechMate and earning Serial #86.

Here is the Upated Builder's Log (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&hl=en_US).

Please review your entry and let me know any changes you want to make. Also, please let me know the dimensions of your MechMate for the record.

Thanks for the number John, the cutting area is 49" X 97". Glad to be a part of the MM group.

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

Thanks guys, I'll look into all the pendant ideas. I really need a way to move around the table and use one for zeroing my material.

Got the table top bolted down today and all of the grounding done. Next it was play time:)

I cut some coasters out of cypress and out of the manmade decking board. The cypress was scraps left over from siding on a friends house. The decking board was just scrap cut offs. I planed the boards to 1/2" thick. As you can see the decking board gave a better cut. The MM is doing real good on the fine cuts. Cypress is real soft wood and probably the reason for not cutting as smooth. This will make nice gifts for my fellow riders.

Gary

[jhiggins7]

Thanks for the dimension info., Gary. Here is the Updated Builder's Log (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&hl=en_US).

[smreish]

John
After reviewing the status page, I think we should throw out the 2 high and 2 low for a better average! That 23.1 month build is skewing the heck out of the page.

Best,
Sean

[domino11]

Congrats Gary! :)

Sean,
That sounds like a good idea! :cool:

[MetalHead]

I agree with Sean also.

[Kobus_Joubert]

I wish I had all those nice HD Pendant's. I could give them as a downpayment on the rental of a HD to do the Route 66.:D
I will be attending the Vectric Meeting in Las Vegas in October and plan to ride part of RT66 back to the East Coast.....If I can afford the rental fees of a bike over there.

[Rusty Nuts]

Kobus, if you get lost on the bike ride and end up in Alabama give me a call. I meet you on my Goldwing and give you some HD coasters. All my friends ride HD's but I let them ride with me anyway:cool:

Gary

[Rusty Nuts]

If anybody is interested in making coasters I have found a good supply of material at Lowes. They had some cork flooring plank samples so I brought four at 25 cents each to try. Worked real well. A shiny cork finish on top with a MDF inner layer and a bottom layer of cork. They are about 3/8" thick. I don't know how long a plank is but you will probably be able to get 9 or more from one.

Gary

[jessyjames]

Gary thanks for the "Heads-up". It is much appreciated indeed.

Respectfully,

James

[KenC]

How I wish I can get stuff like these here.... Envy....

[Kobus_Joubert]

Thank's Gary, but I see it's a BIT off my track I plan to ride. I would also rather ride a Wing than a HD, but when you want to do RT66 I suppose that is what you are suppose to ride.:p

[Rusty Nuts]

Hi everyone,

Cut a full 4 X 8 X 3/4 sheet this past week. Worked out well. Also cut a sign for a friend.

Gary

[TechGladiator]

I want to be like Gary when I grow up.. hahaha! :). Nice work!!.

[danilom]

Signs all over the place :) very nice

[Rusty Nuts]

Mike here are some pic's of the control box. Let me know if you need some others.

Gary

[KenC]

You can route your cables behind the base plate to make things tidy.

[Rusty Nuts]

Been a while since my last post, but have been busy at work and with the Mechmate. I have been making a good bit of money with the Mechmate on the side. Have installed a set of T-track which is cheap and durable. It is Unistrut which electricians use to attach conduit. I first resurfaced the top and then cut dados into it. The Unistrut is held down with elevator bolts. The ones used were 3/8" x 1-1/4" with the sides cut off to make them easier to insert into the rail. I decided against using the Unistrut nuts with the springs as my clamp nuts and made my own by cutting squares of 1/4" plate to slide into the unistrut. These were drilled and taped for 3/8 all thread rod. I used a nut on top to secure the all thread rod to the 1/4" plate so that the all thread would be flush with the bottom of the 1/4" plate. Right now I am using the clamps from my milling machine but will make some of wood or other material in case of the router bit stricks them. Any suggestions on what to use? If anyone uses this, note that the Unistrut is rounded on the bottom, probably from the stamping process of the holes. I made a jig to hold the sides parallel and hit the bottom in the solid area between the holes with a hammer. It dosen't take much force and this will make the Unistrut sit flat and not rock. (don't try to flatten the bottom with out the jig because the sides will flare out).

[MetalHead]

There are some hold downs on the forum made from plastics that would work. You could use Derlin, HDMU or Nylon. Great idea. You may want to make the MDF "lanes' deeper to allow a spoil surface. You will loose another inch, but it will save a bit.

[MetalHead]

You could even use nylon thread rod.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-6/6-threaded-rods/=f5b3mn

[KenC]

Nicely done! That is creative use of off the shelve components. Bravo!

[Bbegent]

Unistrut as hold downs is brilliant.