Routers - Porter Cable, Bosch, Makita, Milwaukee, Etc - and mounting them

[fabrica]

Rather than Going in for a spindle with VFD drive I have decided to purchase a Porter Cable Router to save costs. Can somebody advice me on whcih model to buy. It should be a good heavy duty model. Our Voltage in this country is 220V and 50 Hz.

[David Rosenbleeth]

Fabrica: Although in the US (where I am) the routers come 110V and therefore I can't speak for international availability, I can tell you that many router users have determined lately that the Milwaukee router (3HP) is quieter, smoother, has less runout, and generally superior to the PC 3HP that was the previous top choice.

[fabrica]

I presume that Milwaukee are 110 V. In our country we operate on 220 Volts. Does anybody know weather they offer the 220 V version of the same model.

[Robert Cheal]

Fabrica,

I started with the Porter Cable and ran it for about 4 years, changed out the brushes & bearings during the last year it still works fine but it is now in a router table. I switched over to the Milwaukee 5625-29 early this year and I like it very much and it is quiet compared to the PC.

Robert

[ralph hampton]

I run a 110v router on a cheap(ukp45) building site 240>110 transformer without problems. Not sure how it affects the speed though, but it's only a little.

r

[fabrica]

Now that I have decided to go in for a Makita Router initially what type of cutting toools, collets would be required by me to handle the jobs I have in mind of doing (sign making, Kitchen cabinets plastic cutting etc).

Could some guy supply me with a basic list of tools required. It is easier and cheaper for me to get down everything from U.S.A in one go.

[Bob Cole]

Fabrica:
Just wondering why you are choosing Makita?
After the earlier discussion on this forum about the Milwaukee router

I have been looking in that direction. what does Makita, or any other router have to offer that might make it superior to the Milwaukee? After considering the torque, speed, and ease of bit changes, I would think noise output would be a key consideration. Just my 2¢ worth.
Bob C.

[fabrica]

It is due to the Voltage issue. We in this country run on 220 Volts 50 Hz. Milwaukee does not have 220 V versions to my knowledge. If possible could you please double check for me. I would love to own a Milwaukee.

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, in choosing a router, be sure you can get spare parts in your country. Bearings are normally easy to find, but the carbon brushes can be a problem. Buy the router from the guy down the road that is going to give you 12 months warranty.

Our power tool supplier here in Cape Town insists on opening the package on the counter in front of you, checking the contents and then engraving their invoice number onto the tool. And there is great personal service after that. Way better than online/overseas purchase.

[Bob Cole]

Fabrica;
I know very little about electricity, but in the USA we split the legs of our 220V and run one leg with a ground to get 110V. could you do the same where you live and there by put a 110-120V router {the Milwaukee 5625-29} to use?

BTW: for any of you using 120V I found a site where I can pick up a factory reconditioned 5625-20 for under $240.00 delivered to my door. Includes a full 5 year factory warranty}. If you are interested let me know.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/2063.jpg

[Alan Conolly]

Bob:
From what I can tell the electrical supply in USA is actualy 2 phase (2 lives plus neutral plus earth) Measuring across the two lives will give you 220v and across any one live and neutral will give you 110v. In Europe (and most of the rest of the civilised world) the electrical suply is based on 3phase 380v, plus neutral plus earth (from the utility co) If you measure across any two lives you will get 380v and between any live and neutral you will get 220v. It is therefore not possible to achive 110v without using a transformer with sufficient current capacity for the tool being operated.

Alan

[Gerald_D]

Alan, you see it the same way as me, but the snag is that the guys on the other side of the pond use a completely different terminology.... Our "live" is their "hot", our "phases" are their "legs", our "earth" is their "ground", and I think our "neutral" is their "return"?? So I shy away from discussions like this because someone may want to blame me for ending up as toast - you must have heard stories about their lawyers as well?

Bob says "we split the legs of our 220V and run one leg with a ground to get 110V". That won't work here because ground/earth is separate from neutral after our "earth leakage"(ground fault?) system. But I do remember how my grandfather used to to treat earth and neutral as the same thing.

[Kim Mortensen]

Just for a Note. Bosch has launched a version of their American Router 1617, like the Porter Cable versions on the European market.
This model is called GMF 1400CE. This one will be the version I'm going to install into my table...
Here's the link

link (http://www.bosch-pt.de/boptocs-de/Product.jsp\;jsessionid=05F8C3D6E0A8B991D70A67A3D5 54DB00?division=gw&ccat_id=81984&prod_id=9878)

Another link (http://www.buckandryan.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/BSHGMF1400CE)

[Gerald_D]

Kim, just for comparison to the Porter Cable power ratings in the USA, that 1400W would be seen as about 2.65 HP over there.

1400 ÷ 746 X 1.414 = 2.65

where:
746 Watts = 1 HP (shaft power)
1.414 = square root of 2 (used for RMS versus Peak calcs)

[Kim Mortensen]

I know the European version is a little under 2HP but still it's a very nice machine, and the first of it's kind in Europe. It's the closest I'll get to a real Spindle in the near future. I have found that a spindle cost's anywhere from $2000-4000. And that's a little steep for my wallet... I'll just run the table at lower speeds until I can afford a 5HP Spindle in stead. But for now I have to build the machine first, have just lasercut most of the lasercut parts the other day. needing only to cut 2mm and 6mm elements.

[Gerald_D]

Kim, the big 3.25 HP Porter Cable is only 1800 Watt, your 1400 Watt is not far behind that. The USA power figures are Peak while the Europe figures are RMS. As I showed you, you have 2.65 HP peak.

Italy is the home of most spindle producers - good prices can be obtained there if you skip all the middlemen.

Plunge routers can also fit in the MechMate. We use Makita 3612C with the handles removed . . . . .

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/250.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/251.jpg

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/252.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/253.jpg

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/254.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/255.jpg

[Kim Mortensen]

Ok... So the Bosch should be efficiant enough. Nice then.
Do you have a good supplier of the Steppers needed for the MechMate, Cause I can't find some in Europe that operates with rather good prices. Not in the Size that this table is made for. I'm going to run without gearbox, in the hope that i Will be able to have as little backlash as possible.

[ralph hampton]

Kim,
I have the USA version of the Bosch running on a 110v building site transformer here in the UK, and am very pleased with it. It is an excellent little thing, and pretty quiet too. It is also dead easy to change bearings and brushes (I have just found out).
The only downside is that it only comes with 1/2" and 1/4" colletts and everything else must be sleeved, but I hav'nt had any problems with that.

r.

[fabrica]

Gerald, I am about to place order for a Makita 3612C Router. The local price quoted is US $ 290 with warranty.

It comes with only a 1/2" collete. For other sizes of bits how do you manage. I assume that you too are using this model. Makita does not seem to be manufacturing any other collet sizes. I read somewhere in a thread a guy saying that the ideal thing is to avoild using adapters and to use collets of different sizes to match the bits that you use.

What is your advice on this issue?

[Gerald_D]

Makita supply 1/2" and 1/4" collets with the router as standard over here. We bought some metric collets together with a metric collet nut from the Makita agent and I think that was 6,8 and 12mm. I know for sure my son uses an adapter for 10mm cutters only. That "adaptor" is simply a piece of precision hydraulic pipe (12x1mm) with some saw-cuts in it. Remember that Makita is originally Japanese and metric - the threads and bearing are all metric.

[fabrica]

Gerald, I inquired from the Local agent of Browns. They say that They only supply the 1/2" collet and they do not keep in stock the original (Genuine) 1/4" collete and neither do they have the other sizes. I will have to buy these from other 3rd party vendors who sell Indian & Chinese colletes.

I have the option of going in for a Dewalt Router. Do you or anybody else have any experince with these routers.

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, I gave you wrong information on the Makita collets. The following is the true situation:

The inch-sized Makita is supplied with one collet 1/2" and a collet sleeve adapter to reduce the 1/2" to 1/4"

The metric-sized Makita is supplied with one collet 12mm and two collet sleeve adapters to reduce the 12mm to 8mm and 6mm

The nuts are probably identical, but we havn't had a reason to try and swop nuts.

Most of the time we use 8mm and 10mm cutters. The workshop guys fit and change the cutters and I had forgotten the situation with the sleeves already. Sorry for the wrong information initially.

[Arthur Ransom]

Rockler has a quick change collet (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2247&SearchHandle=DADBDCDFDADADDDGDHDADF DIDGDFDFDICNDGGDGGGECNDEDGDFGCCNDIDAGDDCCNDEDFDDDH DAGEDEDIDBGBGEDJDADADADBDADADA DBDIHCGPHFHEGFHCCAGBGDGDGFHDHDGPHCGJGFHDDADADADEDA DADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADA DADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDIHCGPHFHEGFHCCAGBGDGD GFHDHDGPHCGJGFHDDADADADBDB&fil ter=router%20accessories) for Porter Cable routers that uses a T handle wrench. Love mine, makes tool change a breeze.

[fabrica]

Gerald, Monuting the Makita onto the Slide plate is not all that simple isn't it. Do you think that those foor small screws underneath the router would provide it solid mount.

[Gerald_D]

Not simple, and not difficult - you can learn from my mistakes...http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

Those 4 screws hold the router together in normal use and we havn't had any problems in this area, except that we stripped the threads in the plastic because our first screws were too short.

(To get the router perfectly square to the table, you put washers on top of the four round pedestals. Or grind one or two slightly shorter.)

This was the very first version. 10 small holes for height adjustment. 2 little plates out the back for hooking on the balance springs. Main plate is 8mm thick, about 90mm (?) wide...

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/250.jpg
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/251.jpg

Then, quite a few things changed:
a. The spring plates bumped into clamps, so they were cut away.
b. The 10 hole system was dumped in favour of a single center bolt and 2 locating dowels
c. 4 Screws were lengthened and changed to countersink heads because they also hit clamps.
d. An air deflector plate was added between the router and the bracket so that all the dust is not blown up into the air. (Makes a huge difference)

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/255.jpg

You need to remove the router handles. One handle contains the switch and some wiring must be bypassed. After the wiring change, the braking of the router doesn't work anymore - it stops slowly, not suddenly.

Then also there was a collision with the tip of part 1020454B at Y=max travel. A small part of that part had to be cut away.

[fabrica]

Thanks Gerald, I will try to follow your instructions today and see what I could come up with.

[reza forushani]

Which router is the easiest to install in the Mechmate?

[Gerald_D]

Apparently, the easiest mounting routers are the Milwaukee 5625-29 (http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLD%2CGGLD:2005-07%2CGGLD:en&q=5625%2d29+milwaukee) and the Porter Cable 75182 (that is the 7518 (http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLD%2CGGLD:2005-07%2CGGLD:en&q=porter%20cable%207518&oe=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi) without the base and handles)

But, they are only available in 110V countries.

Having never seen one in real life, I can't help with a bracket design unless someone does some measurements for me. The Milwaukee is slightly smaller than the PC - it needs a sleeve/shim/spacer when going into a bracket designed for a PC.

[reza forushani]

Thanks gerald. On the Milwaukee do I need to buy the base as well or not. On the PC do the handles come off?

[Gerald_D]

You don't need the base of the Milwaukee. The handles/base of the PC does come off.

Apparently there isn't much of a price reduction for buying these routers without their handles/bases.

[vadeem]

This website has the Milwaukee 5625-20 (3.5 hp + base) for only 276.49 shipped to the lower 48 states:

http://www.tools-plus.com/milwaukee-5625-20.html

That is less than Amazon and you get a base to sell on ebay (or figure a way to make a mount of some sort out of it)

Their website looks good in that your ENTIRE order ships for flat $6.50 .

[Gerald_D]

Yes, don't dump the bases, we might be able to convert them for the MechMate's attachment point.

[reza forushani]

What is the difference between 5625-20 and 5625-29?

[reza forushani]

Just ordered 5625-20 for $269.99.
Thanks for everyone's help

[Gerald_D]

Regarding the Milwaukee 5625...

I think the standard supply is 1/4 and 1/2" collets each with a fitted nut. These are the relevant part numbers:

1/4" Collet only, part no. 48-66-0985 (With nut, PN: 48-66-1015 (http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productrelated_27_40028_-1_682049_192199_192137_Y))
3/8" Collet only, part no. 48-66-1000 (apparently this one is not part of the standard supply)
1/2" Collet only part no. 48-66-1010 (With nut, PN: 48-66-1020 (http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productrelated_27_40028_-1_682050_192199_192137_Y))

...but you probably want all of them. You might also want a separate nut (PN 44-40-0095) for each of them. Don't know the number of 3/8" collet assembly with nut.

To install and remove the nut, see operator's manual (http://www.milwaukeetool.com/us/en/partpdfs.nsf/PDFView/41618CDC77C25FB386256F690050F4DE/$file/58-14-5616d4.pdf)

Also, you won't be sorry if you bought a spare set of brushes and bearings with the tool - see parts list (http://www.milwaukeetool.com/us/en/partpdfs.nsf/PDFView/BD95C67382EB685886256C5B00611142/$file/54-37-0175.pdf).

Here (http://pacosarea.blogspot.com/2007/01/servicing-milwaukee-325hp-router-5625.html) is Paco's blog on changing the brushes - watch that space for intructions on changing the bearings.

[DocTanner]

The Milwaukee 5625 comes with a 1/2" collet.
The router is slightly larger than 4 inches
I used 4 inches of 4" id pipe, cutting it the weld on the inside of the pipe, and welded 2 flanges with bolt holes for securing the router.
This was welded directly to the Z-plate.

I'll try to post a pic of this this evening.

DocTanner

[DocTanner]

Here is a pic of it.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3379.jpg

DocTanner

[Gerald_D]

Ah, good to see some nice workmanship - radiussed corners, washers under nuts, shiny blue paint.....http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

[James Webster]

It took only 2 days to get the 5625-20 Milwaukee router from Tools Plus. Router came nicely packed.

Ours arrived with ONLY a 1/4" collet. A quick call to Milwaukee came up with the fact that it is supposed to come with ONLY a 1/2" collet. Box was original factory sealed, so it was Milwaukee's fault. They are sending a 1/2" out. Be aware that many of you would rather have the 1/4" anyway.

Here are some base pics if anyone wants to start dreaming up a universal mounting idea:
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3488.jpg

[James Webster]

Here are the holes with the handles removed. They slant up at an angle, so they are pretty much worthless.

The metal is thin cast, so drilling and tapping some new holes is unlikely. Its just too thin.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3491.jpg

[James Webster]

Here is the underside showing how thin the casting walls are under the handles.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3494.jpg

[Gerald_D]

Great pictures James, thanks!

An idea.....?

Cut base off (we only need the body clamp)
Go up inside the casting with threaded flat bars
Put new holes in the casting for screws through to the flats inside:

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3496.jpg

Go from those flat bars to the z-slide on the left (the clamp-screw away from the slide)? . ? . ?

James (or anyone else who also has this Milwaukee), could you measure the body diameter with a vernier caliper for us? (Doc says it is slightly over 4") Some more overall dimensions would also be useful. I want to see if I can design an adapter that mates to the mounting holes on the z-slide.....

[DocTanner]

Perhaps combining Gerald's system of the quick change plate welded onto a 4" pipe would be an effective simple solution.
Welding mine to the Z-plate shouldn't present any problems.

Later, if I desire a different tool in the holder, the MechMate can cut an adapter to fit inside the pipe.


DocTanner

[Gerald_D]

I am fond of hydraulic pipe clamps when needing to mount a round item to a flat surface. See McMaster-Carr item 3015T338 or 3015T314.

[James Webster]

The Milwaukee body is 105mm (4.14") in diameter.

[Gerald_D]

Thanks for that James. Hey, you are in the telescope mounting business, how about designing and producing a mount for us? http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

[James Webster]

I saw some of these clamps at the local hardware store. They are called "Iron Pipe Repair Clamp" They did not have 4" in stock, but they could order them.

They look like they might be a good mount (RS-2):

http://www.romacon.nl/RomaconEnglish.html



Here is a picture of an even simplier one:
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3583.jpg

[Paco]

At last... how to replace the Milwaukee 5625 bearings (http://pacosarea.blogspot.com/2007/03/milwaukee-router-5625-bearing.html).

DocTanner and all, you might want to take a look at it for "How to remove the depth adjustment screw from the motor...

[Paco]

This is something new I've tried about the MK5625 bearings... (http://pacosarea.blogspot.com/2007/03/mk5625-bearing-pre-load.html)

[Evan Curtis]

Once again, Good work Paco!

[Gerald D]

Here is a company selling brackets (http://www.midwestrapidtool.com/BrktInstallInst.htm) and toolchangers (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371) for routers: Midwest Rapid Tool Inc. (http://www.midwestrapidtool.com/index.htm)

(Please realise that I am not endorsing or promoting a company when I simply make a note to say that it exists)

[Greg J]

I just received an email from Ron at K2 devices (K2CNC.com). They are seeing a demand for the Milwauke 5625-29 and will have a mount / bracket designed in the next 10 days.

I'm assuming that the price will be in the $70 USD range (thats what the other mounts are going for).

Greg

[Greg J]

The mount for the Milwauke router is ready. I ordered mine last night.

http://www.k2cnc.com/shop/proddetail.asp?prod=RM%2DMIL5625&cat=31

[Gerald D]

Greg, do you think your V-rollers are going to touch the 3.5" wide mount?

[Gerald D]

If I were over on that side of the Atlantic, I would probably buy the Porter-Cable mount and use a thin sheet of plastic when holding the slightly smaller Milwaukee. Then I would be able to hold the Porter Cable if I really had to.

But, after looking at the price difference, I'm not sure if it is worth it.

[Greg J]

Gerald,

Good question. I may be putting the cart before the horse.

I was actually more concerned about the cutout on the mount for the depth gage of the Milwaukee router. I didn't think there was enough "meat". Sent several email to Ron and ordered.

After I finish with "J.R.'s Skate" design and drawings (almost done, maybe post tomorrow night), I'll check those dimensions.

Thanks for the input.
Greg

[Gerald D]

That depth gauge can be removed, but it involves removing the cover, brushes and maybe field coil as well. (Don't know what this does to the warranty). Paco is the resident expert on these things, but I havn't seen him around for a while. Maybe a PM will locate him?

[paco]

Or check out the photo album I put about disassembling the 5625 (http://picasaweb.google.com/the.real.paco/MK5625BearingsReplacement) for bearing change.

Hey Gerald! Not much post but still reading. Lots of technical stuff that don't need commentating what so ever... since they are from skilled peoples.

[Gerald D]

Hi Paco

Is it quite easy to remove the depth gauge? I'm sure you don't need to move bearings or anything like that?

[paco]

Yes it's easy... for me at least... and I'm pretty sure for the most user here.

Prior to remove the cover, you need to remove the depth screw knob. When you get to the point where the brushes are removed and the tachometer is slided off, you just need to lift the motor frame/armature assembly and the depth adjustment screw can be removed.

Most (all?) screws on this unit are of torx type (http://www.google.com/images?svnum=10&hl=en&safe=off&rlz=1B3GGGL_enCA208CA215&q=torx+screw&btnG=Search+Images).

[Greg J]

Thanks Paco,

When I receive my mount for the Milwauke, I'll post any insights.

I haven't bought my router yet, but didn't figure it would be hard to remove the depth gage. I hope the mount didn't make provisions for the depth gage, since its not of use and easy to remove.

Greg

[paco]

I do believe it is easy and I may have make clearer that no bearing removal is required to remove the depth screw.

The two things that I'd recommend to be cautious about is to not over tighten the screws since they thread in soft plastic and to mark the electrical connectors (2 black) from the speed sensor assembly if you feel it will help you at reassembly.

[jbmclain]

Paco, thanks for making this painless. My router is new so all it required was removing four screws and taking the black husing and red cap off by hand.
This will allow you to remove the depth screw. Now the only work is removing the brass brush covers (carefully), enough to clear the armature.
Once that is done you should be home free. Put everything back together (carefully) and test.

Thanks to alllllll the smart people
joe

[Greg J]

Gerald,

I received my mount for the Milwaukee router. Its a very nice design and machining is first rate. My only concern is the cut out for the depth gage (red circle). There is approx. 1/8 inch of material. The mount is made from Aluminum. I'm only concerned about cracks from vibration. There are no sharp edges / cornors or stress concentration areas. It may be a non issue.

What's your take?

Greg

298

[Gerald D]

It should be fine.

[Greg J]

Thanks Gerald,

The mount is a good design. K2 has been great to deal with.

After looking at the "back plate", it would not be difficult to make a new one or modify the old. I'll probably just go through K2, since they are good to do bussiness with.

Greg

[smreish]

K2cnc has an outlet store on ebay...I just picked up the porter cable 7518 mount for 50 dollars! Just thought I would share.
Sean

[Doug_Ford]

Gerald,

This weekend, I've been machining my router mounting brackets which was a stupid idea because I probably saved $20 after buying aluminum stock and bolts but wasted 2 days I could have used for something else. Anyway, I'm committed now so I might as well finish it. I'm getting close to the point where I need to drill some holes in the Z-axis plate for the brackets but I can't decide how high or how low my router should be. I looked at the pictures of your MM and it appears that the face of the collet is about 2 inches or so below the bottom of the Z-axis plate. Does that sound right to you? I guess it would be better to have the router too high rather than too low because the fix would be a extra sheet or two of mdf on the table.

[Gerald D]

Collet about 2" below the slide plate sounds fine.

This is an area that is never really discussed - thanks for highlighting it. As you noted, the further it goes below the plate, the less clearance you will have under the collet and cutter for loading thick jobs. However, if the router sits too high on its rail, the rail/slide collides with:
- edges of the job when cutting deep bowls for example.
- g-clamps used to hold the job down
- a dust collecting foot (which in itself is another can of worms)

[sailfl]

Gerald,

Do you know any thing about kress spindles?

http://www.techno-isel.com/CNC_Routers/Spindles/variable.htm

Thanks

[Gerald D]

The "Kress spindle (http://www.kress-elektrik.de/en/products/browse_products.php?categorie=767)" is nothing special as far as I know - it is a typical "laminate trimmer (http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&rls=IRFA%2CIRFA%3A2006-24%2CIRFA%3Aen&q=laminate+trimmer)" , or "die-grinder (http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=IRFA,IRFA:2006-24,IRFA:en&q=die+grinder&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi)" without the extended neck. We used a Metabo (http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=IRFA,IRFA:2006-24,IRFA:en&q=metabo+ge700&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi) for a long time as our only "spindle", and it worked fine.

Do realise that when most folk talk of spindles, they mean brushless motors designed for industrial use clamped into bigger machinery. The Kress is not one of the real spindles - it has brushes and is mainly intended as a portable handheld tool, ie. for die grinding or laminate trimming.

[sailfl]

Thanks for the feed back.

[rhfurniture]

I have just put a kress 1050w(input) router on my shopbot as a horizontal spindle. I havn't used it much yet but it looks good - I will report if it fails to delight.
The advantage over a similar router is that it has double business end bearings - this is similar to a spindle (and die grinder I guess), though they are ordinary deep V and inexpensive. It also takes collets up to 10mm and is comparatively quiet (to some) and cheap, as it is only the motor. It also has a fully machined steel 43mm lower housing that is useful for fixing it to the cnc.
It suffers from the usual brush motor router low power at low speed.

R.

[Gerald D]

Thanks for that report Ralph. It does sound better engineered than the more typical motors in that class. Must be the German pedigree.

[Abdul]

rhfurniture,
What's the price of kress 1050w in US$

[rhfurniture]

Bout $238, from a UK ebay shop.
Collets are about $37, mounting bracket about $50

[Abdul]

Thanks Ralph

[Greg J]

Yesterday evening, my Milwaukee 5625 started making some bad noises. After hitting the E-Stop, external inspection revealed that the bottom bearing (P/N - 02-04-2006) was coming out of the Motor Housing (P/N - 28-50-0110).

Don't have any idea what might have cause this. Has anyone experienced this before?

I'm headed back to the shop this morning to dissemble and inspect for any internal damage.

More later.

[paco]

The main/lower bearing should stay in it's sleeve in the housing. It should be flush with the housing. This is how it look normally (http://picasaweb.google.com/the.real.paco/MK5625BearingsReplacement#5037181479415849570). What I found is that those two retaining screws are not doing a good job. Fine threading in aluminum is no good at all. One of my router's retaining screw as stripped the housing thread after a couple of unscrew/screw. The lower main/lower bearing is press fit in the housing but under heavy working conditions, it may slip out if the retaining screw fail. I have fix mine with locking compound so "it doesn't move".

Hope that help.

[Greg J]

Thanks Paco. Your blog was a big help.

It looks like the culprit was that black bristle from the DC foot skiting. Some how (not clear yet) it got sucked up (thought router was down draft) and pushed the bearing out.

Cleaned everything and no damage. Putting back together and test run shortly.

Side Note: Why is it fun to take things apart ? Must be in a man's DNA. :)

Edit: Just looked at Paco's bearing link. Oops. I never put the two screws back in after removing the plastic flow diverter along time back. Surprised it has been running this long. I guess it's a good test that shows how little force is pushing the bearings out.

[servant74]

Gerald, I like the 'quick change mount' feature you made into your mount. (two alignment pins and one bolt to pull it tight to the Z-plate). Do you have plans for your router mount or could you make them available?

I was looking at the pictures from a couple of years ago earlier in this thread.

[Gerald D]

Jack, that mount was done long before people nagged me to keep plans of these things :D

The pin holes and bolt hole are on the current z-slide drawings, but I havn't noticed anyone using them yet.

[Kobus_Joubert]

Geald you are slipping.....http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13232&postcount=161

I did use it

[Gerald D]

Thanks for reminding me Kobus . . . . . that I am getting old and losing my memory :(. Well that was more than a year ago! :)

[smreish]

Gerald,
I used the pin and bolt mount for my most recent spindle attachment.
Absolutely 100% needed! ...and works perfectly.
Due to the spindle casing being threaded, I had to make a sub-attachment plate to attach to the z-slide. The pin arrangement worked perfectly.
I will post pics next week when I get back to the machine.

Sean

[servant74]

I bet, if someone that has the talents and tools (not me currently :( ) drew up a quick drawing of a good pin and bolt mount plate with needed specs, it would be used. Having a couple of them included in laser cut parts (though not really needed) would encourage its use.

Especially noting the extra holes needed for the K2 router attachment and some popular spindle, and any other noted popular attachments (drills, scanner/probe, knife for vinyl, etc)

Just a thought.

[Lex]

Gerald,
I am going to use the same Makita router (not with the switch on the handle) that is shown in your post #16 on page 1. The handle mounting ears in your photo's doesn't look as if it was trimmed or cut back. When I check my router for the clearance in the y-car it was fouling as much as 5mm against the opening edge in the car(spider plate bolting space). Was the y-car dxf modified after this or did you grind the mounting ears back?

[Gerald D]

Johan, there was no grinding/cutting of the router "ears", and the hole in the y-car has never been widened/narrowed since the first drawing files (200mm clear). I think our ears might still be below part 10 30 455 when the z is fully up, but that machine has a z-slide that doesn't go as high as the newer 6-roller design.

But, there was another collision that needed some grinding . . . . The gusset part of 10 20 452 touched a lumpy part of the router's plastic body when the y-car ran fully across to the far side, and the z was fully retracted. Maybe about a 6mm deep notch was needed to clear the part indicated below:

5557

[Lex]

Thanks. You are right of course! The router doesn't go so high to get even close to the cut out in the car. I must learn to check things a little longer, specifically the assemblys! :)
I will file the 6mm away on the router body at final assembly.

[Gerald D]

Johan, we didn't make any permanent mods to the router - the 6mm notch was in part 10 20 452.

PS. Hennie dropped in here yesterday. Showed him my normal tool supplier Power Tool Repairs in Woodstock, and he started drooling at the cutters on display . . . :)

[Lex]

Ek is bietjie stadig vandag!
I hope you manage to keep Hennie away from the glass. Sales people hate droplets and finger prints on their displays. :D

[hennie]

Hi, honey I am home just stoped in Plett,Thanks Gerald for taking me through Cape Town and doing the sight seeing route (he took me all over and even took me right up to where I needed to be thanks again )
I also had a visit to Cam Craft and saw what a couple of MM together look like ,nice!
and that shop where I am surely going to spend a lot of Rand`s.Gerald I hope you know someone in the traffic dept.:)

[servant74]

I just communicated with MidwestRapidTool. They are just finishing a Mach3 set of software for their changer. Once it is done, they said they would post on MechMate as a vendor.

They have focused on SB previously I think.

[sailfl]

I purchased my 5625-20 router in 6/2008 before I finished my build. I have been using the router regularly and have been satisfied with it. I purchased the 5625-20 over a Porter Cable because it is much quieter.

In May of 2010, the router would turn on and immediately power back down. Fortunately, the router has a 5 year warrenty. I took it in to the local service center and they replaced the Module Electronic Feedback unit (14-20-0050) and the Tachometer (23-38-0200).

This last week the router started acting the same way it did in May. So I thought I had the same problem. I had a couple jobs in the works, so I ordered a new router and took the old one into the local service center.

I have been using the new router and today the service center called me to tell me they could not find any thing wrong with the old one.

I tried every thing I could think of before taking it into the service center. I plugged it into another power source, I cleaned it out, I looked at the tach and it would still shut down after ramping up.

I have switched out the new router for the old. Keep the new one for when the old dies.

I did buy an extra tach and electronic feedback module just to have on hand.

Thought I would pass on my experience.

[Mojo]

I Just ordered a milwaukee 5625. I believe i saw and correct me if i am wrong a the MM with serial number 65 that had a slick looking mount for that router i was wondering where you found it?

[smreish]

Mojo,
I don't know if Jimmy has this exact mount, but a really nice mount for the 5625 can be found at http://www.k2cnc.com/shop/products.asp?cat=31 for 65.00.

Sean

It's where I have purchased all my mounts in the past.

[Robert M]

Draw mine on cad, sub to a nearby water jet cutter and 35$ later mat. Incl ……Voilà a nice custom pair made !
Robert ;)

[Red_boards]

I have two routers. One is a 1450 GMC (a local discount brand) and the other a 3hp Makita. Both of them are anout 205mm with the handles removed (the handle mountings account for about 2x10mm of this).
I've decided to experiment with the GMC shown below rather than take a hacksaw to the Makita:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/rted99/CNC/PIC_0466.jpg

I dissembled the thing and can't find a decent mounting place on the body. My question is what's opinions on removing the black base plate and mounting an L-bracket on the cast base. I can use 5 existing screw holes and 3 bolt-through mounts.

I'm aware that this will restrict how close I can get to the workpiece , but it seems the most solid mounting. Getting around the body of the router is an option, but the odd shape will make this difficult to achieve.

[Kobus_Joubert]

Ugly, but it worked for me.

11927

11928

[Red_boards]

Thanks, Kobus. Yes, the Makita has screws into the body like yours that I could utilise, but the GMC is "cleverly" engineered for integrated assembly of the spring loaded base, dust extraction and main body.

[Kobus_Joubert]

I would think that if you take the handles off, and unscrew that black glide plate it should mount straight onto a base like mine. I would not worry to use the router dust extraction and will make my own dust foot.
or
Buy a spindle....you will NEVER look back...trust me. It took nearly 3 years for me to come to this point and I must say there should be no alternative...
Spindle is the answer. I know it's expensive, but it puts your machine on another level.

[hennie]

Try this

[Red_boards]

Nice, Hennie. Thanks.

Kobus,
A spindle is on the agenda. Just want to get cutting first with the router because of the easier electronics setup and cost. I'll buy a spindle on my next trip to China.

[Mrayhursh]

side note: Milwaukee is a great brand name. The company is owned by the Techtronic Industry TTI. They also make AEG which is know for heavy duty tools but they are also the manufacturer of Ryobi an often overlooked product line by hoe owners. My point here is that if you want to save money Ryobi is not a bad way to go. My Ryobi grinder and 14 inch chop saw have been put through a lot of abuse and they are responsible for making the pile of steel I bought into the main structure of the MechMate. http://www.ttigroup.com/en/our_brands

[WTI]

side note: Milwaukee is a great brand name. The company is owned by the Techtronic Industry TTI. [/url]

Milwaukee used to be a great brand.


Our old Milwaukee 5625-29 routers say Made in USA. The new one says Made in China.

Wanna place any bets as to which ones last longer?

[slobato]

Hi Everybody


I have a wood router AWT/DWT Model: F-1200. I would obtain a electronic drawing for adapt in my mechmate project. Anybody can help me?

Follow details of my router:

Image:
http://www.dwtbrasil.com.br/images/upload/129_g.jpg

Specs:

Trademark: AWT/DWT
Motor: Universal
Rated Power: 1200 W
No-load Speed: 11.500 - 32.000 RPM
Pliers Diameter: 6mm - 8mm - 1/4"
Deep of cut: 0 - 30 mm
Weight: 5 kg

Similar Product Specs:

http://www.dwt-pt.com/pt_of.php

[Red_boards]

Good luck on getting plans.
The 1550W machine in post #98 stalled a few times in deep cuts on wood, so first decide whether the 1200W has enough power.
I think you'll be taking the side handles, base, legs and springs off and then looking for screws that you can take out and use for attaching a L-shaped base plate that you then bolt to the z-axis as shown in posts #99 and #102.

PS Even if you by-pass the on/off switch, keep the spark dampening box that's attached to the on/off switch, because this helps keep the tool alive longer

[slobato]

Good luck on getting plans.
The 1550W machine in post #98 stalled a few times in deep cuts on wood, so first decide whether the 1200W has enough power.
I think you'll be taking the side handles, base, legs and springs off and then looking for screws that you can take out and use for attaching a L-shaped base plate that you then bolt to the z-axis as shown in posts #99 and #102.

PS Even if you by-pass the on/off switch, keep the spark dampening box that's attached to the on/off switch, because this helps keep the tool alive longer

I need of electronic diagram to adapt in Mechmate, do you have? Thanks.

[slobato]

I found this solution in Brazilian CNC Forum:

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/lslobato/basetupia2.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/lslobato/tupia4.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/lslobato/tupia3.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/lslobato/tupia2.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/lslobato/tupia1.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/lslobato/basetupia.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/lslobato/basetupia1.jpg

[lonestaral]

I will be using a AEG router until I can justify a spindel.

I had to cut the handles off to get it to fit in.
Remove the switch.
I put 2 M12 bolts where the pillars were.
Tape it up to keep the dust out.
I used them to bolt the router to a plate.

I got a plate profile cut.
Drilled the holes in the plate.

Drilled and tapped 2 M8 through the Z plate and Z slide tube.

Bolt the plate to the Z slide plate.
Insert the router and bolt to the plate.

The tape isn't very elegant but it works..

Tried it out today, machine cutting.