Man I'm having fun with this machine #101 - St. Louis Mo.

[darren salyer]

Having been a lurker here for 18 months or so, (downloaded and printed the plans well over a year ago.) and having gathered a few bits together, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered the laser cut parts from MetalHead.
I'm a full time remodeler/ part time cabinetmaker and currently have a very small homemade tabletop CNC machine I bought used, and ended up rebuilding most of.
That machine taught me the basics of Mach3 and i do quite a few Vectorart carvings with it.

I have decided belt drive is the way to go, and have spent the last 3 hours re-reviewing bookmarked threads trying to find details of the parts necessary to complete the belt drives.

Having 4 20' long C channel beams, I'm still debating size, but am intrigued by the idea of utilizing the entire 20', and machining sheet goods on each end. Seems I could unload and reload a new sheet on one end, while a panel was being machined at the opposite end. This evolved from the idea of two machines with one operator cycling back and forth between them, loading and unloading. One long machine not only saves on motors and electrical components, but also allows the occasional big project that 2 smaller machines wouldn't.
I have 2000 sq. ft. to devote, at the rear of my shop,so space isn't an issue.:)

Thanks in advance to Gerald, Mike and everyone else here who have contributed so much to make my journey easier.

Darren

[darren salyer]

I'm thinking a 5'x12' table size will allow me the ability to cut radius work out of stock, finally retiring my shop built "compass" router jig.

Bearings are ordered from Superior, laser parts should be here this week, and I'll be picking up some more steel next week.

BIL is a commercial electrician and is on the lookout for an enclosure box.

And so it begins.....

[KenC]

Welcome to the club!
Regarding size, you might also want to accessing the cut parts in the middle of the table without climbing onto the table top... I made the mistake of going for the largest possible table size but after advises from Gerald & others also after I dry fitted the table that I realised that 6' x 16' is insane... Consider this as a reality check.

[darren salyer]

A very good reality check. Thank you for that.
My scenario:
I have a supplier who drives past my shop to have a competitor cut the occasional job on a 5x10 machine.(Who buys nothing from him) He has stated they sometimes have to creatively position at an angle to fit the material he needs cut. He has further stated he can throw some work my way, and a bigger table might make it easier to make me the go to guy for all of it...
As an aside, I have 4 (+1 spare) Chinese 12 MM diameter x 4 MM detection proxys from Ebay on the way.

[smreish]

Darren,
The two tables I use frequently use all of the 5' x 8' or 5' x 10' area.
MDF is available stock sizes in 4 x 8, 5 x 8 and 5 x 10 and 5 x 12 in my area. Only once in the past 2 years did I wish I had a 5' x 12' table.(acrylic comes in 5' x 12' sheets) ...the rest of the time, 5x8 was plenty. I will say though, having that 2' of extra "not used" space on the end of the machine makes it nice to leave duty specific blocking and hold downs for small parts. I often have to cut plastic in small sizes for prototyping parts....thus nice to have a little are to work with.

Just my thoughts.

Sean

[darren salyer]

Wow. Over a year has passed and I'm just now getting back to this.
Welded up the Y car this weekend and made a cutlist for a 5x12 table.
Pulled all the stuff I've been accumulating for the past year off the shelf and inventoried it.
Heres to continued momentum.http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0072000x1500.jpg

[MetalHead]

Glad to have you back. I have added a good bit of stuff to my offerings, so let me know if you need anything.

[darren salyer]

A little progress last night. They are flat but the 1/4" plywood laying on the horses is bowing and they look bent.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0102000x1500.jpg

[darren salyer]

Got the main beams cut to length today (14')
Ends mitered. Need to get some material for end caps.
Put a laser along the top edge and they are very straight.

How do you eat an elephant?
One small bite at a time.

[darren salyer]

The gantry is all leveled, squared, checked and double checked ready to weld together.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0112000x1500.jpg

[darren salyer]

This shows the far end of the gantry ready to weld.
you can also see the main beams up on the sawhorses in the background and the legs underneath them.
Also shows what a mess my shop has become in the last week.
Next week should show some serious progress on the table.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0122000x1500.jpg

[melissa]

Lookin' good! :)

Two tips for your gantry welding:

1. make sure the holes are countersunk for the motor bolts. It's easy while the parts are loose, and a right pain after the gantry is welded.

2. I used threaded rod inside the gantry tubes to hold the end brackets flush to the tubes while I tack welded. Easier (and more out-of-the-way) than clamps.

[MetalHead]

Here are some shots of the bushings I made Darren for his motor plates.

Yeah Darren I'ma little slow :) but these will be in the mail Monday !!!

Thought you'd like some pics of them being made.

[darren salyer]

Thanks for the great service, Mike!!

[darren salyer]

Started welding the legs and spreaders onto one of the main beams.
Still need to add the diagonals.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0132000x1500.jpg

[darren salyer]

Haven't welded anything major in quite a few years, but these should hold, even if they aren't as pretty as some I've seen here. http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0142000x1500.jpg

[MetalHead]

So your joking huh :D . Mine look WAY worse than that !!!

[TechGladiator]

@Darren: I think my best weld doesn't look half as good as that. Great Job!..

[domino11]

I think for stick, I would be happy with that no problem!

[darren salyer]

Welding in the bearing spacers Mike sent me....
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0221320x990.jpg

[darren salyer]

Should be able to finish these as soon as the pulleys and belts arrive..
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0201320x990.jpg

[TechGladiator]

Wait a minute. Weren't we suppose to just use locktite to attach those bearings to the plate????.Kidding..

Good job. Looks like it's coming along nicely.

[darren salyer]

Thanks.
I've been watching your build closely, and have used it as inspiration.

Putting my skate together now.

[darren salyer]

1 15' rail cut down......
2 to go.....

[darren salyer]

All 3 15' pieces of rail cut down.
Guess I start grinding them tomorrow night.

Leg closure plates all cut out, drilled and a nut welded on for the levelers.
Guess since I went with 6 legs, I'll have to talk to Mike about getting a couple more rubber feet.

Nothing sexy, but progress none the less.

[TechGladiator]

Darren

Thats great. Grinding had me a little scare but it ended up being pretty easy. Just be careful and take plenty of breaks with the grinder as you dont want to burn it. When I was grinding my rails if I felt the grinder get hot I took a beer break. With the 3 rails I probably had a six pack :) are you using the sanding paper on the grinder? That worked great for me.

[darren salyer]

Yes, I'll pick up some this afternoon, and get started this evening. Guess I'll grab some beer too.:)

Cutting the rails was certainly more pleasant than I had anticipated. My 10 yr. old Dewalt grinder had no problems keeping up, but I still didn't force it.

[darren salyer]

Everyone seems to have a picture of their v-rollers sitting on the ground rails, and I now know why.
While it was by no means a difficult task, I'm certainly glad to have reached what to me is a milestone.
Rails are all cut and ground, with the obligatory picture.....

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/mechmate0282000x1500.jpg

[smreish]

...did you use the 36 grit sanding disks backed by the grinder disk?

[darren salyer]

Yes I did.
Used two 36 grit discs per 15' rail and 1 50 grit to dress all 3.
Worked like a charm, and my 10 dollar Harbor Freight grinder lives to tell the tale.

[smreish]

....I love it when people follow directions! Good work - nicely done.

[darren salyer]

I SHOULD have the base table final welded and upright by the end of the week.

So now I'm exploring PMDX numbers like mad, trying to decide how to best build a control box that will allow me to use the proxies I already have, and be able to add a laser pointer, touch off plate, spindle control, dust collection switching, etc. in the future without having to backtrack.
Then there is that whole smoothstepper question.....
If anyone has any insite to a plan of attack, I'd be very appreciative.

[baseball43v3r]

go for the PMDX 126, plenty of inputs, and if you decide you have more then that can handle, you can add a second 126 to the mix. but out of all the boards, that has the most inputs and outputs (i think).

[MetalHead]

I agree with John. go the 126 route and if your using Geckos use the 133 or 134 boards to reduce wire clutter in the cabinet.

[darren salyer]

That is the way I was leaning.
Thanks for the replies.

Anyone have an opinion on using these type connectors to connect to the control box?

http://www.pmdx.com/4Pin-PlugAndJack

[WTI]

That is the way I was leaning.
Thanks for the replies.

Anyone have an opinion on using these type connectors to connect to the control box?

http://www.pmdx.com/4Pin-PlugAndJack

I used them, but it is better to pay $1.69:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270712985784?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


Than it is to pay $6.00.

Get a few extra for later servicing.

[domino11]

You can also find the Paralell card he sells here for cheaper too.

Newegg parallel card (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815166007)

[darren salyer]

Man I learn something new everyday.

Hours spent reading threads and seeing comments about XLR connectors, and I STILL didn't make the connection that those are XLR connectors.

Thanks for the link.

D.

[darren salyer]

BTW, got a couple sheets of 3/4" x 5 x 12 MDF headed this way....
Anyone wanns help unload it?
My back hurts already...

[domino11]

Actually, the ebay connectors referenced in the above posts are not really xlr connectors. They will work fine but are not interchangeable with real xlr connectors as far as I know.

[WTI]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector

[smreish]

http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Audio-Cables/XLR-to-XLR-Cables/Neutrik-USA-Inc/NC4FX.xhtml?NC4MX

Markertek is a very reliable source with pretty fair pricing. Customer service is awesome.

These Nuetrik 4 pins are the industry standard. They are also only one of the few xlr that are rate for the current and voltage the stepper motors require.

Myself, JR and a few other used them.

Good luck.

[darren salyer]

Oh Suuuuure, everyone jumps in with more connector info, but nobody offers to help unload the MDF????

Just kidding, thanks for all the info. Spending a few bucks more on good components to have a reliable machine is well worth it in my mind.

I don't mind doing something, but I ABSOLUTELY HATE having to redo something after the fact.

Table should be upright by the end of the week.....probably massively overkill too.lol

[WTI]

Nuetrik is a great brand for connectors.

Besides XLR, you can also look at the SpeakON style connectors. They come in 2, 4 and 8 conductor layouts. These are made for high current usage and basically unbreakable.

You might even use both styles to make it hard to mix up motors, sensors, spindles....

[darren salyer]

Table is turned over onto its six legs....Now if I could only find my camera.....

[smreish]

...it's under the table! LOL. Great accomplishment - keep up the great work (we are watching!)
What I really want is a picture of you moving the MDF. If I recall when I took care of my MDF move, I actually put 2 trash cans on furniture dollies to move at the same level as the truck bed, to the machine bed of the MM to keep the lifting to a min. That is some HEAVY stuff. Be careful.

[darren salyer]

Going to order cable chain from Mcmaster tomorrow (4516T22)

The formula I found is 1/2 the axis length + 2" + (radius of chain x pi) +1 link..

so for a 5x12 I need:
X axis = 144"/2=72"+2"= 74"+ (12.377")= 86.377"
Y axis = 60"/2=30+2=32"+ (12.377")= 44.377"
86.377+44.377= 130.754"
Less than (2) 6' lengths.
Plus end brackets...

My question is: can what I take off the Y axis be added to the X axis, or will that not work?
Is it like a bicycle chain where you need a "master link" ?

[smreish]

The IGUS energy chain is modular. Each link snaps into the next very simply. The end links are just the same. Just make sure you snap in the proper direction, they are "handed" links.

If you order another 12"-18" and 2 ends you can also do your z-axis!

Good luck.

[darren salyer]

Found the camera....luckily not under the table.
My wife wasn't happy when I told her I flipped this over by myself using a floorjack and chain hoist...... probably good that I don't have any pictures of that.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/mechmate0301320x990.jpg

[Darin]

It looks awesome Darren!

I work by myself a lot. I know what its like. Sometimes things are safer than they seem when there's only one person to worry about getting hurt. I find I can do a lot more than I thought, very safely, if I just go slow and plan every move and back away and look everything over a lot. I would have turned it over by myself to and also would have been fussed at :)

[TechGladiator]

@Darren: Do you think those beams will hold that table? !!!. Kidding, that looks great. Looks like it's coming together nicely... Good Job!..

[darren salyer]

LOL, like I said, massive overkill.
I suffer from a disease called "while I'm at it" that always makes things escalate...

I can tell you, it is rock solid.

[MetalHead]

I'm waitin for someone to use an electric pallet jack setup on one of these to move it around :) !!! Nice looking table !!!

[smreish]

Looks about right to me. Nice work.

[KenC]

Awsome looking table!!!
That is a sturdy table there! You will be rewarded for the extra miles on the additional weight & diagonal braces.

[darren salyer]

Got some used cable chain and installed it, and it seems to sag a bunch.
Does this look normal, or am I doing something wrong?http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/mechmate0321320x990.jpg

[Gerald D]

As you said, that cable chain has seen a lot of use and is a bit worn, but still functional for your application. Check that the links are still firmly attached to each other by jerking it around a bit - that is the most important thing. If it droops so far down that it slides on the lower part of the chain you will have to check that it doesn't snag. (On very long machines it is normal for the chain to drag over the fixed part)

[1planeguy]

Darren...have to say that is a beast...wow...

I knew the 12' long would add some "bulk"...didn't think that much :-)

[darren salyer]

Thanks...I think....:)
Heres how it looks today with a 61"x145" MDF spoilboard
Just painted it yesterday.
Hope to get some re-assembly done this weekend..

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/mechmate0341320x990.jpg

[1planeguy]

VERY nice...

[barry99705]

Thanks...I think....:)
Heres how it looks today with a 61"x145" MDF spoilboard
Just painted it yesterday.
Hope to get some re-assembly done this weekend..

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/mechmate0341320x990.jpg

Hey look! His garage door is still white! :D

[Kobus_Joubert]

Nice. I see you used the spoilboard as a buffer between the MM and the garage door :D

[darren salyer]

Actually, the car dollys are still under the rear legs, I used a floor jack to move it to the center of my shop and put 25'x30' of plastic on the floor under the table, and sprayed it there, then moved it back after it dried.
Cleanup consisted of rolling up the plastic and throwing it away.
Its next move will be into a dedicated room in the back of my shop...

And in the spirit of the founder......someone really needs to empty that dust collector. :)

[darren salyer]

another couple bites of the elephant....

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/mechmate0351320x990.jpg

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/mechmate0361320x990.jpg

[darren salyer]

I have (4) NPN NO proximity sensors, and in reading through the threads related to them, it seems I need to supply them with 12 volts to use them to switch a relay that will then provide 5 volts to pin 15 of the PMDX.
Over simplified, I know, but i'm looking for a shopping list.

Sooo, 4 DIN mounted relays with 12 volt coils, and a power supply with a 12v and 5v tap should be on my want list.


Correct?

[smreish]

Mostly correct.

You can see what has been earlier on this post:

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9234&postcount=59

Your switching a "dry contact" to the pin on your break out board that just happens to be wired in series for the homing sequence in Mach. My drawing shows a couple things that have been changed.
I am supplying only 12VDC to the prox circuit and the DIN mounted relays. The proximity sensor(s) are always active and "sense" the hole in the rail or a de-rail situation to shut down the system.

If you have any really needy questions, send me a PM.

Sean

[darren salyer]

I read that entire thread, And I'm pretty sure I understand whats going on.
I'm putting together an order to Factorymation, and the DIN relay you spec'd is of course obsolete now.
Any special 12volt coil relay requirements I should be aware of?

Good to know that 12v to the BOB isn't a problem.

[TechGladiator]

Hey Darren;

If you plan to put lights on the door that show the status of the prox I would recommend the DPTP Relay (Double Pole, Double Throw) http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.105404/.f

if not, you can just go with the SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.105420/.f

Those are what I have on my built and they work great. If you need any help with the wiring let me know.

Miguel

[darren salyer]

Thanks Miguel.
What are the 5 red and 5 green lights on your door for?
I'm assuming for the proxys, but can you enlighten me a little on how they are set up?
Green when all is OK, red when they are sensing a hole or derail?
And why 5?

Thanks.

[TechGladiator]

@Darren: I use 4 Green when Each of the proxys is "OK", 4 Red when not "OK", 1 Green when Spindle is running and 1 Red when E-Stop is engaged.

[smreish]

Still have the relays at Factorymation:

http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.259183/.f

[darren salyer]

I know I'm not the first, but here is my Central Machinery dust collector modded with a Thein baffle and a Wynn filter.

If I'm the first with a MechMate branded collector, I'd like to apply for serial #1.
I have the blue paint and the logo, and i'd be happy to post a video of it sucking up dust, if necessary......:D

See what happens when i'm given too much free time in the evenings?

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/mechmate039990x1320.jpg

[Alan_c]

That is a first :cool:

[MetalHead]

Hmmmm - may need to add that to the catalog offerings :D !!!

[Kobus_Joubert]

Must be a PROUD MechMate owner....nice

[WTI]

Hah! Love it!

[Axel1966]

So cool ! :cool:

[darren salyer]

OK,
Not much posting but a lot of behind the scenes research.
Control box and wiring stuff arrived from Metalhead today. (Thanks Mike.)

For motors, I'll be using KL34H280-45-8A
For power supply i'll be using a 5N48R12
I have 4:1 belt reductions

I believe I'd be best suited with 25 tooth pinion gears, but any advice would be appreciated.

[darren salyer]

Well, motors and power supply are here.
Still researching the 25 tooth pinion question.
About to order the 4 G203v, pmdx-126, pmdx-134, and an Ethernet Smoothstepper.
I'm hoping to be able to lay out the control box so 6 inch ribbon cables will work.

[darren salyer]

I've strung the 4 core cables to the motors, and I have a question on the 8 core to the pushbutton boxes.
Are these wired in series IE: Y car box to far gantry box to near gantry box to control box?
Seems logical to do it this way, but...
I'm confusing myself the more I research.

[smreish]

Darren,
The E-STOP are wired in series, the Momentary push buttons (start and feed hold) are parallel.

[darren salyer]

Control box is coming along.
Here is a pic taken before the final connnections to the machine itself.
I've had it moving under its own power using the test mode built into the BOB.
A few more hours and it will be fully functional.
I'll probably have some Ethernet Smoothstepper questions to ask.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/controlbox1320x990.jpg

[Red_boards]

Hi Darren,
Neat job.
From this angle it looks as though it will be hard to plug the parallel cable into the BOB?

[Axel1966]

Hi,
Maybe the breakout board may has been lifted up ?

[MetalHead]

He will be using the Smooth Stepper so no parallel cable will be used.

[KenC]

Neat!

[darren salyer]

Thanks everyone.
Wiring is definitely not my strong point, and its been a challenge to make it neat and tidy.
I will say this to anyone contemplating a build:

Don't let fear of a portion of the project keep you away. It will get figured out as you progress.
Also, documenting your build and posting pictures along the way will force you to build to a higher level of quality, knowing its going to be seen by some very accomplished builders.

Mike is right, the Smoothstepper eliminates the parallel cable and its connection.
Now if I could only find the few hours needed to finish it up.

12 hour days at work for the next few weeks trying to catch up on a backlog of work.

[Surfcnc]

Hi Darren

It is some time ago but you mentioned using NPN proximity sensors.
As you are using the PMDX 126 breakout board you can connect them directly to the board itself. Nothing other than the wiring of the 4 sensors together to run back to the PMDX 126 is required.

Page 22 of the latest manual has the wiring diagram you require.

Also I see the Ethernet Smoothstepper in place in the control box, mine runs very well indeed. Keep up the good work you will soon have your machine moving.

Regards
Ross

[darren salyer]

Thank you, Ross.
I'm getting very excited now that I'm getting closer.
Can I power the ESS from pin 26 of the ribbon cable connecting to the BOB?
Documentation on the ESS is VERY lacking.
I'm assuming one ribbon cable connecting port 1 of the BOB to port one of the ESS as well.

[Surfcnc]

Hi Darren

I power everything inside the control box from 5V and 12V taps in the torriod power supply so have have no experience with using pin 26 as the power supply.
The ESS uses 5V as you say, it might also be beneficial if the ESS is always powered up when the PC is on as Mach3 expects the ESS to be powered up before it starts.

Regards
Ross

[darren salyer]

Ross,
I've looked at the ESS documentation and it says that the external power supply terminals are marked positive and negative, but I see no evidence of it.
The best I've determined is that the terminal closest to the mounting hole is the negative terminal, but i'm also unsure of the jumper position needed for external power.
Can you shed any light on the subject?

Thanks,
Darren

[Surfcnc]

Hi Darren

13317

I have marked the power plug on my ESS for my own benefit as the markings are on the underside!
Not sure about the external power jumpers but I used it in its as delivered state as it is expecting external power.

Finally the most important jumper on the board is the one next to the external power socket. In its open state as per the pic, it is ready to run.
However to set the ESS IP through the configurator software IT MUST BE CLOSED or the IP you give it will not stick.

If you have not found any configuration guides look here...

http://www.soigeneris.com/Ethernet_SmoothStepper-details.aspx

http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?products_id=366

Regards
Ross

[darren salyer]

Thank you Ross,
This all helps tremendously!!

[darren salyer]

Well, I have the pins next to the external power supply shorted, but when I run the configurator, the program stops responding after a few seconds.
Back to the drawing board.

[darren salyer]

SUCCESS!!!!

Mach3 is controlling the machine, and I'm able to jog the x and y axis at 400 IPM just to test.

Now to complete the Z-slide and decide on a spindle or router.

Been a hectic couple evenings trying to debug everything.

[Surfcnc]

Congratulations Darren

It is always good to see the first movement on the machine.
I have had a few of those "busy nights" too, consider it a rite of passage.
Now your gonna need a Z axis, so onward :)

Regards
Ross

[darren salyer]

Thanks Ross!!

There was quite a bit of head scratching involved, but all looks good so far.

In researching the router vs. spindle I'm leaning towards a router with a super PID
mainly due to ease of future repairs, as well as local availability if I need to quickly install a new router to finish a project. I can imagine sourcing a backup in a matter of hours if necessary.

I'm leaning towards a Porter Cable PC7518, but I can't find a mount for it.
K2CNC makes one, but they are out of stock.
Any suggestions from anyone regarding a comparable router, or a source for the mount would be appreciated.

D.

[danilom]

If you can stand the noise from router its ok. You can have a spindle and a cheap router in backup.

[smreish]

I used the PC7518 for years on 2 separate CNC tables. My Warthog and the MM with great success. That's 5 plus years on the router. About once a year, I would take it to the local tool shop and have new bearings installed for about 55$ whether it was needed or not. It's loud - but it works really well.

I will say though - I really like the Milwaukee that Nils (Sailfl) uses. It's sewing machine quiet!

[darren salyer]

Not opposed to the Milwaukee....IF I can find a mount.

[Regnar]

I have to say Sean is right about it being quiet.....well until the router bit rips into the wood then you hear the scream of the bit. Much quieter then PorterCable.

K2 use to have it but its no longer on thier website. Infact it seems they are out of almost every router mount.

[MetalHead]

If someone can get me the specs, I can see if I can get one cut or mill one out myself.

[darren salyer]

I would think MM specific mounts would be a good item to offer.
From what I've read, the K2 mounts need modifying to work.
I found the Gcode for a PC mount on CNCzone, but I don't know if my little machine will cut aluminum with a Bosch Colt router. I suspect not.

[danilom]

With a right bit (single flute) you could cut it with ease Darren, like my friend marko did for his router.

http://www.cnc.rs/mechmate/router_mount_marcobc.jpg

[domino11]

Darren,
I sent K2CNC an email and they responded with a quote for the Milwaukee mount, so it looks like they will still make it. Not sure why they do not list it on their site anymore. The mods for the mount are very minor and are documented on a few builds here. Really just a little trim is all thats needed. Let me know and I can forward you the quote. :)

[darren salyer]

I read Nils build thread front to back and found no reference to a model # but I'm assuming its the Milwaukee 5625.
Edit: found it in post 30 the second time through it. 5625 it is.
Heath: Sent you an email.

[darren salyer]

. . . . . I have the K2CNC mount and the router should be here this Friday.
Now, if only my wife will let me retire to the shop for the weekend......

[domino11]

So how do you like the K2CNC mount Darren? Glad that worked out for you. Have a look around for the mod that needs to be done on that mount. There was a few pics of what had to be done on one of the build threads.

[darren salyer]

Heath,
Sadly, I've only unpackaged it, since the router won't be here til the weekend, and thats my prime MM time.
It does look to be very well made.
I'm getting overly anxious to make dust.

[smreish]

Darren,
If your not aware, you may have to lay the K2CNC mount on it's back on a table saw and nip small 45 degree chamfers on the rear of the mount to clear the Vee Rollers on the Z-slide. It only takes a few minutes for the slight modification if needed.

[darren salyer]

Sean,
I found the thread discussing the chamfers, thanks for the heads up.
A bigger problem is that stupid me can't find 4 of my eccentric bushings for the v rollers.
They seem to have walked off.
Guess I'll be calling Rick this morning and ordering 4 more.
So much for a productive weekend....

[bradm]

Are those missing bushings on the rail cutting skate?

[Gerald D]

Brad, that is excellent reasoning! Or, the voice of experience :)

[bradm]

Definitely the latter. I spent an evening scratching my head while the missing bushings were clearly visible, and within 4 meters of me the entire time.

[darren salyer]

Can I hang my head in shame now?
Thats EXACTLY what happened.
I left the skate assembled to grind the z plate, and forgot they were on there.
On a happy note, tearing the shop apart looking for them allowed me to get some straightening up done.

BTW, router is now here, and it is nice.

[smreish]

LOL....I am sure no one here will admit it, but we have ALL done it. left the Skate assembled and forgot about them.

[David Bryant]

Danilo can you give more details about the bit and speeds used on that Al plate please. Was it cut dry or with cooling?

[danilom]

It was sprayed with WD40 a bit during the cut. Bit used is a 7mm single flute here it is in the picture. Router has been set on a 5 out of 7 speed (around 20k but a lot less as it looses torque and speed while cutting). Feedrate around 1.2m/min or 50ipm

http://cnc.rs/mechmate/alu_bit.jpg

[David Bryant]

Thanks Danilo

[KenC]

don't feed too deep. anything less than 1mm is ok.
Added caution, listen to the router, you don't want it to stall during cutting.

[darren salyer]

Cutting its very first file.......
Set the steps per inch, loaded a file I used a lot on the little tabletop machine, everything is working exactly as planned.
A good day. :)

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/Mechmate0411320x990.jpg

[Alan_c]

Congrats! another number on the way.

[MetalHead]

Were on a roll !!! Congrats on your build !!! You get #101

[Gerald D]

Good job!

[smreish]

...pretty belt drives!
Nicely done - is that 3 or 4 machines commissioned this week?

[domino11]

Congrats Darren!

[jhiggins7]

Nicelly done, Darren. Congratulations.

Here is the Updated Builder's Log (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc).

[MetalHead]

4 I do believe.

[darren salyer]

Thanks for the kind words everyone.
Also, thanks to everyone who offered words of encouragement or advice through a sticking point.
I can't begin to describe the amount of knowledge I feel i've gained from from this
project. ( And I'm still clueless compared to most of you.)
Thanks Gerald and Mike for the start and continuation of a forum that allows us all to share knowledge and friendship.

Soooooooo, now that I have the bug, (And BAD I might add...)I'm seriously contemplating starting a MM based lathe along the lines of Arts (turningaround) .
8-10 feet long material length, 16-20" diameter cutting area.
Then I could retire the old Legacy Ornamental Mill...
(Already have 2 more 20' main beams..)
Anyone want to collaborate on a design, or is that straying too far from the MM premise?

[darren salyer]

Man, am I having fun with this machine!!
Here is a logo I carved into a piece of Livingstone Solid Surface scrap I had laying around.
Size is about 5x9 overall.
Logo was carved with an 1/8" endmill .2" deep, and filled with poured epoxy, as a sample.
The prospective customer seemed pretty impressed with how it came out.
Picture is washed out a little, due to the camera phone pic. Looks much more vibrant in person.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/inlaidlogo1024x768.jpg

[Alan_c]

Looks great Darren!

[Surfcnc]

Hi Darren

Nice work, may I inquire about how you finished (sanded) the poured epoxy without blemishing the surface finish of the other material.

Regards
Ross

[darren salyer]

Since Corian type materials are basically plastic, they can be sanded and buffed just like the epoxy. On this small piece, to speed things, I poured the epoxy while on the spoilboard, and after it cured, I surfaced the whole piece, cutting about .05" off the whole surface, then sanded with my RO sander, working up to 320 grit, then buffed. Took about 15 minutes.

[Surfcnc]

Thanks Darren

Smart leaving it on the machine to re surface the piece.
My motto is always let the machine do the work !
I have been doing some resurfacing of timber drawer fronts myself recently so your method makes perfect sense.

Cheers
Ross

[Zouave]

Darren, I'd be interested in collaborating on a design for a lathe-style MM. I have a Legacy as well, and I can't tell you how much I'd like to be able to replace it with something a little more... robust? And CNC would be a HUGE help for a lot of what I do.

I'm about 2 weeks from finishing my MM (electric cables are en route, last thing I need), and once that is done, I think I will be turning my attention towards a Lathe version.

[darren salyer]

Sounds great.
The Legacy is OK.... for its era. It always seems that something screws up or comes loose at the very end of a project that ruins it, and all the work setting it up.

[Zouave]

Heh, yeah, i have the same issue. And i usually don't notice it....

[darren salyer]

small paying job today, but hey, its a start.
Had dust collection hooked up, and it was working great, but it was developing a nasty static charge.
I unhooked it until I can get a ground wire into the ducting.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/2012-07-25082519.jpg

[smreish]

...ahh the pretty sight of dust everywhere. Well done.

[darren salyer]

Dust = Dollars.....:D

[darren salyer]

Did some math....3-4 of these type jobs a day = about 1/2 day of easy work=enough to pay the bills without breaking a sweat=enough time for a hobby.

Why does it never work out like that?

[hennie]

Wait soon the jobs will be lining up and one machine won`t be enough.

[darren salyer]

THAT is the dream, Hennie.

[KenC]

... Had dust collection hooked up, and it was working great, but it was developing a nasty static charge.
I unhooked it until I can get a ground wire into the ducting.


Darrent,
You can also wrap some wire loosely outside of the dust collector duct instead of inside of the duct. I use 1mm solid core hook up wire which I happened to have, never have static ever since. In fact any conductor would do.

Just remember to tie one end of the wire to ground. any ground would do.

[darren salyer]

Made myself a cutting board over the weekend.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0011.jpg


St. Louis Cardinals logo.

[Alan_c]

Nice, good fit.

[darren salyer]

SAme company I poured the epoxy logos for comissioned me to build an over-the-top "princess chair" for photos of the Birthday Girl at parties held in their store.
Very fun project.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0274.jpg

The back started out as a 32" x 48" blank of MDF 3" thick.
Hard to see, but the back is concaved about 2 inches.

[Jason Marsha]

Kids will love that chair. I won't be surprised if the store orders more for sale.

Jason

[darren salyer]

Thank you, Jason.
Funny you should say that. This is the prototype chair.
I was shown 1 picture of a similar chair and told "surprise us"
THAT is a pretty scary thing to hear.
I've been sweating the details, but the good news is they love it.
Now that the design is done and the toolpaths complete, any additional ones are a walk in the park.
I wouldn't be surprised if the work for this one company pays for my machine.
I'll post some more pics of things we've done for them.

[smreish]

...and that is how you pay for your machine...One really good client.

[Robert M]

I was shown 1 picture of a similar chair and told "surprise us"
THAT is a pretty scary thing to hear.
.

......I'd love to be a kind of bird to see your client 'surprise & scared' reaction to there turn, as you handed out the invoice....:D
Hoping this turns out great for you ;)

[sailfl]

Nice chair... good work!

[darren salyer]

Another project just because.
Friend of mine lost his dog recently, so I cut this out of a scrap sink cutout of Livingstone solid surface material.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0295920x1632.jpg

It is way easier to read in person than a pic.

[darren salyer]

Moving more and more into panel processing.
Does anyone have a link or even better, plans for a DIY vacuum panel hoist?
I have an old electric hoist, and a sliding door track already.
Mainly looking for the vacuum pod/human interface part of the equation.
I saw one on another forum I liked, but it was very scarce on details.

[darren salyer]

A coffee table project for a friends mancave.
Reversible Mahogany top in a metal welded frame.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/DSC04555.jpg

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/DSC04556.jpg

[Regnar]

Moving more and more into panel processing.
Does anyone have a link or even better, plans for a DIY vacuum panel hoist?
I have an old electric hoist, and a sliding door track already.
Mainly looking for the vacuum pod/human interface part of the equation.
I saw one on another forum I liked, but it was very scarce on details.

You need to figure out your heaviest sheet good you plan on picking up with the clamp. Lets say a Sheet of MDF at 80lbs. InHg is = to Half Psi. So if you have a near perfect vacuum at 22InHg you would have 11PSI. In theory you could pick up your sheet with a vacuum pod the size of 2" x 4".

MDF bleeds air bad so lets hope you can get at least 5 InHG of vacuum. You would have 2.5 Psi. 80lbs (MDF) / 2.5(Psi) = 32 square inches to lift your sheet. A 4"x8" vacuum pod should lift a 80lbs sheet. You should figure in a bit more for bumping sheet into things and the jerking motion of the lift.

Even if you double the size it will not be that bad as far as size of the pod. What you will run into is your pump may not be able to keep up with all the free air of the MDF. Bigger can actually hurt you more.

Have a look at this for building a pod. http://joewoodworker.com/veneering/vacuumclamping.htm

A simple 3 way valve would work just as good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-2-Way-1-4-NPT-Hand-Lever-Operated-Switch-Detented-Air-Valve-Fixed-Positions-/190635617781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c62c4adf5

[darren salyer]

Another fun little project.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/displaybar1000x750.jpg

[darren salyer]

Somebody needs to post something.........

Some signs we did using 1/2" AZEK.
96 9" letters nested into one sheet of material with room to spare.
We pocketed the back boards .015", painted the two colors seperately, then used silicone to glue the letters into the pockets.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0242_zpsdf9e3b87.jpg
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0236_zps154230e2.jpg
Doesn't appear that samples of MM work generates much interest...maybe I should stop?

[bradm]

Darren, I think you'll find there is a lot of quiet interest. That's some nice work you're doing there. Are the letters stacked? They look deeper than 1/2".

[Axel1966]

Hi Darren,
No, please keep on posting your works, it's always nice to see new stuff.
Nice work through ;)

[darren salyer]

Letters are 1/2" deep.
Thanks, guys.
I'm happy to post stuff, I just don't want to be seen as a person cluttering the forum with pics.
I would think seeing pics of completed work could inspire visitors to undertake a build.

[darren salyer]

On the coffee table project, it is mahogany with .125" pocketed and epoxy filled areas for the logos and laces. For the NFL logo, I first routed the entire shield, filled with white epoxy, then came back the next day and routed the red and blue areas,filled them, and after it cured, used an end mill to surface the epoxy just proud of the mahogany, then random orbit sanded the entire table.

[MetalHead]

Yep folks are looking

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=78

Over 8400 views in this thread.

Keep up the good work. I love to see what the MM can produce.

[Robert M]

Darren,
following Brad comment, I’ll add :
Have a look at your thread view count before posting…..and compare it with the numbers after a few days…..You’ll have a better picture and then will realize, regardless how many may see your enthusiast state, you first post these to share, not to compete how many may view it !?

I’m one of those…silent observer that appreciate your time, as well form all others members, to post your observation, projects, progress, experience….and on !
Hey….
Enjoy a GREAT holiday seasons…..and YES please, as others, continue to contribute and share !!
Amicalement, Robert ;)

[jask]

Your posts and pictures are a great inspiration for all of us "lurkers" please keep sharing!

[pblackburn]

Darren,
I will say that I wish more pictures were posted. With limits on the pictures sizes and storage here you could always use a site like Flickr or Photobucket and have links to them. I find this is preferable rather than using up the allotment of space here. You do nice work. It is great that you share. Another nice feature of Flickr (and most likely Photobucket) is you can see how many times your photo has been viewed I you would like to know that.

[darren salyer]

Actually, everything is hosted by Photobucket and linked to from here. Seeing cool projects others have done kept me motivated during some of the darker hours of the build.

[pblackburn]

I know that dark feeling all too well. You definitely have a skill set above me with wood. My is mechanical and metal but I hope some day to become better with wood. I like the way you used epoxy and that is something I have never seen done where I live. Pretty cool seeing something like this from Missouri as my sister lives in Kansas City.

[domino11]

Darren,
Keep the pics coming. It is always great to see what different people are doing with their Mechmates! You are doing some excellent top notch work!

[Andrew_standen]

Darren, Don't stop posting pictures, they are of great inspiration , because of your pictures I have just started my build, currently building 3:1 gearboxes and will order steel work ing the new year, have already purchased one stepper motor from OM a 296 to get me started, so please keep posting, a here's wishing you a happy Christmas, Andrew

[Surfcnc]

Hi Darren

The images you are posting provides lots of motivation for us all.
Like yourself I have made a point of posting lots of photos of work as they tell such a big story fast.
Love your work and also the techniques you are using to get lots of colors happening in your resin inlays.

Cheers
Ross

[darren salyer]

My attempt at one of Vectrics projects.
Could have turned out better, but the couple loved it.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG03761632x920_zps215fb517.jpg

[domino11]

Darren,
That looks great! I did not see that one in the monthly project download. Where did you find that one?

[Axel1966]

Hi,
Nice piece !
What kind of finishing is it ?
How did you darken the engraving ?

[darren salyer]

Hi Axel,
It was a 1" thick Hard Maple blank.
Finish was a lacquer stain with a lacquer topcoat.
Picture was before sanding/rubbing the lacquer.
Darkening the letters was as easy as not wiping the stain out of the letters, and letting them dry before topcoating.
My wife is happy, because she now has the perfect gift for whoever gets married in the future, with no shopping necessary.

[darren salyer]

Hi Heath,
I found it on the Vectric Forum.
http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=14960
Apparently is was for a users group meeting, initially.
Fun project.

[Axel1966]

Thanx ;)

[Robert M]

Darren, in regards to your questions on your post 156, I may not have links your after, BUT, have a look at one of my costumer site (http://frontenactechnologies.com/main.cfm?p=03_400&l=en), he specialize in venturi generated vacuum lifting devices.
It should convince you....if not give ya some / many ideas !!
Robert ;)

[darren salyer]

Very neat site. Thank You, Robert!!

[Surfcnc]

Hi Darren

If you are still looking for the hand valves (hydraulic actuators) that Russell mentioned in post 156.
Go to http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1PCS-3-Way-2-Position-1-4-BSPT-Hand-Lever-Operated-Pneumatic-Valve-3H210-08?item=321012595209&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3D LVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4604034157258115279#ht_295 0wt_1168

We use them as actuators for the hold down on shaping machines, and this appears to be a very good price for an SMC type knock off.

Regards
Ross

[darren salyer]

Thanks Ross.
I'll have a look.

[Tom Ayres]

Darren,
Congrats on your build! Because of the size of your MM did you feel it necessary to 'beef up' your frame or do you feel one can do with less beef. I just ordered steel for my frame (same size as yours) and I'm starting to think I didn't plan well enough.

Tom

[darren salyer]

I will say I suffer from "overkill-itis", so bear that in mind.
I wanted room to store sheet goods under the table, so I couldn't triangulate as well as some have done.
When the machine is doing some rapid moves, it is surprising how much even a heavy table moves. I'm talking reversing directions of the gantry at 150" per minute.
If I had it to do over, I wouldn't make it any lighter.

[darren salyer]

Gonna use this image to make an 30" pub table top using 1/2" Corian and red epoxy.
Still deciding on a base.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/baseball_clipart_red_white_2_zps233d54e4.png

[Tom Ayres]

Darren,

At what speeds/# of passes are you cutting the corian and are you finding the dust an issue?

Tom

[darren salyer]

Hi Tom, I use an end mill cutting .125" deep in one pass at 150" per minute. I have a homemade dust foot similar to many you see documented here, and dust has only been an issue when I forget to turn the collector on.:)

[darren salyer]

less than 7 minutes later, the laces are cut.
Tom, you can see what dust is left in the pockets, pretty big chips really.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG03991632x920_zps13f41976.jpg

[Robert M]

Nice !
What end mill are you using for this?

[darren salyer]

1/4" upcut spiral.

[darren salyer]

Couldn't get a plug for the MM forum, but a pretty good read nonetheless......

http://daily5remodel.com/index.php?action=article&rowid=1799

[Robert M]

Nice article, nice business plug :D !
Wishes it bring you more business.
Good luck ;)

[darren salyer]

I'm hoping it brings more people here, through me, as well.
Much greatness can be achieved through many minds.

[Alan_c]

Nice Darren, well done.

[Tom Ayres]

Darren,
I play around with corian/solid surface too. MM definitely speeds up the process. Do you have any experience with laser scanning equipment/systems for scanning templates? or does anyone for that matter. Just wondered if it would be a wise option.

[Surfcnc]

Great write up on your work Darren.
An inspiration to the other Mechmate builders.

Regards
Ross

[darren salyer]

Whipped a few name plaques up for some great niece and nephews I haven't met til this weekend.....

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG04411632x920_zps00a14efc.jpg

[Surfcnc]

That's one way to remember the names :)

Ross

[Jason Marsha]

I think they have a new favorite Uncle.:)

[marko cro]

If still not, this would seal the deal
Great work, an inspiration for all of us still building one :)
http://www.martindollhouses.com/DSC01620.JPG
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii528/lopataos/P1030619_450x600.jpg

[darren salyer]

Figured I'd start making my own pegboard....lol
Actually its the top for a downdraft sanding station.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0463.jpg

[Tom Ayres]

Well, I know it works. you may want more holes closer spaced.

[Regnar]

Darren that is going to be a huge down draft table. Cant imagine the size of the blower you going to need.

[darren salyer]

I'm going to use 2 HF dust collector fans mounted inside.
A buddy has a similar setup and it works pretty well.

Should be (If you trust HF specs) roughly 3000 CFM.

I'll still have the RO sander hooked to a shop vac too.

We'll see.

[KenC]

Sure make life a lot easier with MM boring out hundreds of holes while you watch ;)

[darren salyer]

416 holes to be exact.


I'm going to make some 2" square blocks with 1" dowels, to insert in a hole to hold work for beltsanding.

Beauty of a MM?
If I need to make a top with a greater number of smaller holes, I'm only out the cost of 1 sheet of MDF.

[barry99705]

416 holes to be exact.


I'm going to make some 2" square blocks with 1" dowels, to insert in a hole to hold work for beltsanding.

Beauty of a MM?
If I need to make a top with a greater number of smaller holes, I'm only out the cost of 1 sheet of MDF.

Or just offset the pattern to put a hole in the middle of four adjacent holes. I think I'm explaining that right.. Kinda like looking down at a crap ton of dice sitting on 5.

[darren salyer]

Almost everyone with a CNC at some point carves The Last Supper. I'm not overly religious, but thought I'd give it a go.

When my parents moved to Kentucky a few years before my dad passed, I was given the top to our dining room table, which he had made when I was a year old. His words were "cut it up and make something if you want, if not burn it."

It was a pair of 6/4 15" wide sugar pine boards with a simple breadboard end, and had seen better days, being 40 years old at the time.

Everyday lately, when I'd walk past it leaned up against the wall, it would whisper " are you ever gonna build anything with me?"

Finally, I decided to cut it into four blanks, and machine a Last Supper carving on each blank. 1 for me and each of my three siblings.

I picked a quiet day in the shop, and agonized over cutting up something my Dad had made while I was in diapers, but I felt pretty close to him after I got started, and figured it was a pretty fitting tribute to the Old Man who gave me my love for woodworking.
WE fought like cats and dogs while he was alive, and I miss him a lot.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0436_zpse76533c7.jpg

[Tom Ayres]

Darren, I'm sure you'll cherish it always. Very nice.

[Robert M]

thanks for sharing a private situation as such.
Compelling !!
.....and nice work ;)

[IMMark]

Very nice Daren.
Lost my dad in Nov. 05, I still think of him everyday. He was a woodworker as well (and self proclaimed tinkerer). It is where I got my start and some of my best memories are of holding the end of a long board for him when I was 5 or 6 years old.
Thanks for sharing!
Mark

[darren salyer]

I have a laser pointer that I want to use Mach3 to control on/off.
I've been reading a ton of info on the subject, and just can't wrap my feeble mind around it.

It is a laser rated for 3-6v.

I'm thinking I can hook it up to one of the 5v+ outputs on either the J5 or J6 connector on my PMDX-126 board, but I'm not sure enough to give it a go.

Anyone here with some advice for an electronically challenged idiot?

[pblackburn]

What are you trying to do with the laser? The 5+ V outputs may not have enough mA to supply the laser.

[pblackburn]

One caution with laser pointers. The power of 5mW is still a potential eye damaging device. There is a reason your commercial tools come with safety glasses for lasers. The scattered light especially on a reflective surface can lead to eye damage. Lasers are not really regulated here in the US but they are starting to classify them better. Just always respect what you are using. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_safety

[bradm]

If you hook it up to one of the 5v outputs and one of the grounds, it will be on all the time.

If you want to control it, you have to connect it to an output signal, one of the pins 2-5 on either J5 or J6, and then configure that port / pin in Mach3.

However, those pins are rated as "TTL/CMOS 5v logic", and aren't necessarily designed to provide a high current output for a long time. I don't see an amperage rating for them in the manual. You should check with PMDX to get a rating, and see if you can come up with an amperage rating for your laserpointer (should be in milliamps in both cases). Usually, you can "sink" more than you can "source", which means you would connect the positive side of the laser pointer to a +5v pin, and the negative side to one of the data pins. When the data pin is "on" at +5v, the laser is off, and vice-versa.

So, if I were doing this, I'd check the amperage ratings, then not trust them, and start off including a 1k resistor in series in the circuit to limit the current just in case. There's a pretty good chance the laser won't fire or will be too dim at that level, so I'd then step down the resistor through what ever values I had available (680 ohm, 470 ohm, ...) , expecting in the end to be happy with the output of the pointer, and still have a little protection with a 100 ohm resistor or so.

[pblackburn]

I would switch it on and off with an ice cube relay and control the relay state with Mach

[pblackburn]

Here is a copy of an email from pmdx when I was looking at adding a 4th Axis. It does contain some useful information.
*******************************************
Hello Pete,

The data pins of the second port are not utilized within
the PMDX-126, nor are they available on any connector
other than the J17 input connector itself.

We normally expect people to use the port 2 data pins for
non-stepping control signals by adding a PMDX-108-Input
or PMDX-108-Output. All eight data signals must be the
same style (input or output) because the PC definition
of the parallel port does not allow mixing them.

When people want more step and direction signal outputs
we usually recommend that they use pins 1, 14, 16, and 17
of the second parallel port which appear as A, B, C, and D
on connector J5 of the PMDX-126. If you are using these
as control signals, you may be able to move them to a
PMDX-108-Output board.

The PMDX-108 boards "daisy chain" in the middle of the
second parallel port signals on the way to the PMDX-126.

The J18 connector does expose some of the control signals
from the first parallel port, but it is intended for
support of the PMDX-107 spindle controller card.

Regards,
Steve Stallings
PMDX
*******************************************

[darren salyer]

the current draw is <280mA.
However I do this, I'll probably change to the Mach3 2010 screenset.

[darren salyer]

Maybe a better option would be a seperate 6v power supply switched through the K2 relay on the PMDX-126 board?

[pblackburn]

That is a very viable option. I was assuming you were using the k2 relay already.

[bradm]

Yes, that would be a better option. 280mA is way out of range, it would have to be in the 10mA kind of range to drive directly. So, you'll need some kind of relay or switching transistor, or both - the transistor to drive the relay. However, since you're only switching 5v DC, a transistor will work just fine.

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm in the "Connecting a transistor to the output from an IC" section gives a basic overview of the circuit type.

Again, if you're not using the K2 relay, that's a straightforward approach to solving the problem. And Section 13 of the PMDX manual actually makes it clear that you don't want to go much above 16ma on the output pins, and you can't draw more than 350ma total from the onboard 5v supply, which puts your 280 up in the marginal range.

Go with the separate supply and K2 relay :)

[darren salyer]

Thanks guys,
One step closer to figured out.
Now, all I have left is switching on/off and offsetting to 0,0...

I envy you guys that have a solid understanding of this stuff.

[David Bryant]

Watch out for the maximum power. Is the laser using 5v at 280mA?
Power =Volt X Amps
5X0.28=1.4 Watts input power.
Much too much to mess with without safety issues or are you using it as a marker?

[danilom]

You can use a relay like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-Two-2-Channel-Relay-Module-With-optocoupler-For-PIC-AVR-DSP-ARM-Arduino-/181026509345?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a26055221

and make a button in mach screen one for on/off and another one with offset zeroing
if you need help with buttons I can send you the code, but if you want to learn about mach its better to try it yourself first

[darren salyer]

Have the laser mounted, wired to the K2 relay. Relay controlled by pin 14.
Slick so far.
I guess i'll get the 2010 screenset, and start figuring that stuff out.
I'm thinking I may switch the router with the K1 relay while I'm at it.
Tired of reaching out to turn on the router if I don't have to.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0545_zps2d732370.jpg

[pblackburn]

When I was using a router, I used the K1 relay but instead of arcing those contacts I used K1 to control an 40 amp resistive load relay that switched the router on and off. I know PMDX states it can handle 30 amps but it is a small relay. I change relays like that it all the time at work that switch a lot lower loads than a router. To maximize the life of that relay, I would recommend that you use K1 to control an NEMA contactor or definite purpose contactor with a snubber across the coil. This way your board will outlast your machine.

[KenC]

Watch out for the maximum power. Is the laser using 5v at 280mA?
Power =Volt X Amps
5X0.28=1.4 Watts input power.
Much too much to mess with without safety issues or are you using it as a marker?

I too worry about eye damage by laser, just make sure it points away from any one's face.

280mA=0.28A is tiny. won't even kill an ant at 5V, let alone arking Relay over 1A rating.
In fact, most BOB with isolated i/o can source enough current to lit the laser pointer directly.the laser will shine even with 2.4V. (which I use) if you are still paranoid, put a series resistor to limit the current to below 0.28A.
All this won't cost more than a dollar to set up (excluding the 50cent per feet wire)
Snubber diode conecct across the + & -ve i/o port is always a good safety measure when the load is inductive or capacitive. such as a relay coil & stepper motor. but if its another diode, (such as LED) its unnecessary, its like protecting a fuse with another fuse.

[darren salyer]

Well, OK, making progress.

I have the 2010 screenset installed and have my touchplate for z-zero working, using the probe input.

The laser is being switched by opening ports and pins and enabling pin 14.

I know there has to be a way to get the laser to turn on from the screen, so that I can jog to position, before running the offset routine, but I can't figure it out.

I can see this being a huge benefit, once I get it all figured out.

[jessyjames]

Darren so like the one at my work the laser cross hairs are connected to an input line "N/C". I just hit a button that has laser on it which was created in my works software. 2010 screen set I believe has a way t make your own button and than tie it into a input line. Let me see my notes. I might have the answer.

[pblackburn]

Should not be more than creating a button and writing the script to handle it. I don't know if you can use a softkey with brain. If you can that would be the quickest response but you can also use vb script.

[KenC]

Brain is fun & powerful, it can do logics which serve your purpose, such as pointer Off when spindle is fired, come back on when the machine is not in G-code... just a few example. but if it is just for switching on/off the pointer, I would suggest along the line of using HotKey assignment, eg. press "L" & toggle the "enable 1" pin, which it is meant for such applications. If you wish to have an on screen button, you just add an on screen soft button & link it to the HotKey. Learning curve is not too steep. Just follow the example/tutorial & its done before you realise it. Even an coding idiot like me can do it (after a few weeks of hair pulling frustrations in the dark because I ignore the manual & tutorials...) but that is my take, other may have their opinions.

[sailfl]

I tied mine to the mist to turn on and off and assigned a key on my Shuttle Pro. I also had a macro for the movement to with another key on the Shuttle Pro.

[Red_boards]

Is the laser button in Mach10 not connected to anything? (It's the red +, 4th from right end, from memory)

[darren salyer]

LOL.
All you guys telling me how easy it is and how you did it.....its all greek to me. I'll be doing some more researching, looking for the tutorials mentioned, etc.

My understanding of the laser button, is it starts the macro to do the offset move as soon as its pressed.
I need to turn the laser on and have time to jog it into position on the workpiece before I start the offset macro.
All the directions I'm finding are like roadmaps that assume you know the area.
They start me off in the middle of the journey.
This old carpenter has to find the start point and work from there.

[jessyjames]

Darren have you installed your macro files into your profile correctly? I remember reading this about someone.

Copy Macros
Once the instalation is finished, several macros need to be manually installed. The 2010 Screenset macros are installed by default into \Mach3\macros\2010. They need to be copied into \Mach3\macros\Your_Profile. If you don't know the profile name you're using, it can be found in Mach3 when running the default 1024 Screenset, in the lower right corner. Before copying the 2010 macros, you should backup the existing M6Start.m1s and M6End.m1s macro's, in case you decide to remove the 2010 screenset. Then copy the following macros from \Mach3\macros\2010

[darren salyer]

Yes I did.
This is such a slippery slope I'm on.....lol.
Opened the control box for the first time to add the laser crosshair.
THEN "while I'm at it" hit.
Mach3 2010 screenset,
Auto zero touchplates,
laser control from screen,
and now, I'm looking at the K1 relay to power a contactor coil to control the router.
This will require post processor work.

And now, I'm almost done with a black box vac source... to keep it simple, I'll control it with a handheld wireless remote.

Everyday is a learning experience, and I love it.

[Surfcnc]

ML890.m1s is copied to the mach3/macros/mach3mill directory.
ML890.m1s can be opened and edited in notepad... it looks like this.

XOffset = 3.43 'X offset from laser crosshair to spindle
YOffset = 4.322 'Y offset from laser crosshair to spindle


SetOEMDRO(800,XOffset)
SetOEMDRO(801,YOffset)

Sleep(125)

Subsitute your offsets for the x and Y axis for your laser, then save the file.

1. To use the macro move your laser (that is jog your machine with the laser on) to the corner or whatever you are lining up to.
2. Press the laser button and the machine will now move the cutter bit to the exact position the laser was just pointing to.

Old has nothing to do with it, if it did then I would be in a whole heap of trouble :rolleyes:

Regards
Ross

[darren salyer]

Hi Ross,
I get that part perfectly ( I think)
What I want to do, is add a button to turn the laser on before I run the offset.
Ideally, the macro would turn the laser off after the bit is zero'd.
I'm having to go into ports and pins and enable/disable pin 14 to switch the laser on/off currently.

[pblackburn]

Macro or Brain. Sorry not more than that but there is plenty of information available. You can watch many tutorials on Brain. It would be easier than trying to explain vb script. If you create a button on your screen, you can edit the button script with the editor if you stay with script.

[Surfcnc]

What about using the M7 or M8 buttons that are already there on the screenset to switch an external relay that operates the laser.

You have to enable the mist / flood option in Mach3 in config, spindle setup.
Set an output number that relates to the ports and pins, output signals (1- 6), you have set up for the pin you are using to switch the relay.

This will not turn off automatically but will turn on and off from Mach3 by just clicking the button.

Brads comments are spot on and if you can establish the board is ok to provide the voltage you need it gets even simpler as the relay can be excluded.

Ross

[KenC]

Don't be intimidated by the laser pointer, its electrical requirement is no difference from a torchlight.
Dump all the relays & go sirect connection to BOB. Connect it's +V to one of your output pin & 0V to the BOB's COM pin. than assign the pin to a HotKey & make that a toggle key. After this, you just press the key sctroke & you will get it working.
If you wish to persue further into crating a soft botton on-screen, you can then proceed... My point is to get the laser running 1st. K.I.S.S. is my motto.

If you are not sure of your output pin current rateing, you can add a current limiting resistor (10~22 ohm, the value isn't critical anything around this value will work, connect one end to the +V of the laser & pluct the other end of the resistor into the Output pin) to limit the current to 100mA, or 0.1A

[darren salyer]

I appreciate the help from everyone.
Ken, in post#230 above, I understand you to say that I can go into ports and pins, outputs, and assign a Hotkey to pin 14 by assigning it to port 1 pin 14 of the "enable 1" and by pressing the L as I toggle enable, and click apply, it will work?

I've tried every possible way of doing this, and nothing.
press L, toggle enable
Hold L while toggling, etc.
Clicking the enable button turns the laser on/off, but the L doesn't work as a Hotkey.

I'm gonna have to step away and catch my breath.:o

[danilom]

If you open the screenset in screen editor (screen4) you can see what hotkey shortcut is, its CTRL+W (32855)

[darren salyer]

Success....(sort of).

Finally figured out how to get the flood coolant button to switch the laser, and the spindle icon is now controlling the K1 relay. I'll wire in a 30A contactor and use the K1 to switch the coil.
It will be worth all the hassle in the end. (I hope).

[pblackburn]

The best thing I can tell you is learn one part well before moving to the next. It is better to have a great understanding on one thing than know very little about a lot. It is easier to build your knowledge base once you have one solid step to build off of. If you have it working, that is great. Now you can take your time to study and see if there is a way you can improve upon it in a way that is not affecting your work time.

[darren salyer]

All I can say is "WOW'.
I rushed to try out my MM once it was "complete".
Used it for a lot of jobs without really fine tuning it.
Never hooked the proxies up, etc.

Finally decided to make things a little tidier.

Took about 10 times longer than it should have to get all this setup the last week or so, even in its most basic form.

Now that I've used the 2010 screenset auto Z-zero and laser offset a few times, its like using a new machine.

Black box vac source (painted blue of course...:)) is complete, and it will suck your hand into the inlet fitting.
now to get it under the table and plumbed in....
Next will be a kiosk type monitor and keyboard holder, with room for the PC.
I load all the files with a usb drive, so I'll probably incorporate that into the face.

It's the little things.

[KenC]

Danilo answered your question.
Its more fun taking small baby step to improve the MM. :)
Climbing the learning curve is as tough as it is, life is short, why add over expectation & demoralize yourself when simple stuff would work? Glad that you got what you want for now. Surely, you will grow to higher expectation along you knowledge eventually, for now, have fun!

[darren salyer]

Thanks Ken, and everyone else.
It definitely is fun...sometimes frustrating ,but fun.

[skypoke]

I built a Mechmate with a 6' x 20' cutting capacity, primarily for cutting aluminum sheet. As it worked out, I haven't done much in alloy but the extra table area is nice for operations that involve several milling processes as you can set up your different hold downs, reference stops etc. Fact is, though, I could do quite well with a 4 X 10 as it's now a hobby machine.

Chuck

[darren salyer]

I agree Chuck.
As I've stated before, if I were to expand into multiple machines, the next one would be a
4x4, as it would be big enough for most of my work.
Couldn't do without the 5x12, but wouldn't need another that size.

[darren salyer]

So, the black box vac souurce is complete and works fantastic except for one minor detail.
It generates enough vacuum to collapse the 2 gallon bucket I made for a filter housing.
Back to the drawing board with a piece of 10" schedule 40 PVC.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h367/absolutebasements/IMAG0560_zps37ed1733.jpg