Cutting mdf doors, laser coming? #1 - Sri Lanka

[fabrica]

These are the first Pictures of the table that I am building. Comment's are most welcome.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2495.jpg

[Gerald_D]

Hey Fabrica, we need more pictures! http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

The little bit I see so far looks okay.

I notice that your welder is using the typical "welder's logic" when working out his sequence - it is not the same sequence as in the drawings. The typical welder's logic is to weld the biggest parts first and then to add the small parts to the big lump. I have learnt over the years that this is not the best way, because it is difficult to turn the big lump over into the correct position to make the best welds. The guys will weld overhead and vertical instead of turning the whole thing over to work with horizontal welds.

The logic in my drawings is the reverse - first weld as many small parts into sub-assemblies as possible. Leave the big assemblies for last. For example, it is much easier to weld the foot onto the leg while you can turn the loose leg with just one hand.

[fabrica]

This is what I did initially. Did all markings on the spoil board. Fixed the under supports
(3" x 1.5" U channel)on to the spoilboards. Drilled The perimeter holes on the spoilboard to go through the U channels underneath. Mounted aligned and tag welded the big longitudanal U Channels (6"x3') on to the samller U channels (which were initially fixed on to the spoil board) and turned the the whole thing upside down.

While in this postion I intend to drill 12 mm holes through smaller U channels through the bigger U channels and then run bolts through the holes and grind off all welding tags.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2499.jpg

[Gerald_D]

Aha, bolted ends! Now you might have discovered another reason for the angle cut on the ends of the 3x1.5" cross supports - to get a drill in there for drilling through the main beams. To get those M12 bolts really tight in future, you should get some taper washers:

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2503.jpg

[fabrica]

Yes, The angle cuts came in really handy. Other wise getting the holes aligned on the U channels would have been really difficult. Today I will insert the bolts and remove all tags and hope to finish the legs as well.

Where would you need a tapered washer ?

[Manjeet Singh]

Why not use guided endmill (Cutter used to make groove for Allen Key Bolts) to dress up the taper U channel and use sipmle wahers instead of tapered washers.

Manjeet

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, the flanges of your Channel irons are probably taper and the bolts then have to bend....

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2506.gif

Manjeet, the guided endmill (counterbore) does not fit inside the channel

Fabrica, you don't have to worry about the taper where the wood table is screwed to the cross-support - those joints are not so tight and those bolts are not highly stressed. Besides, the the taper makes a sort of ratchet action under the nut and that helps to "lock" it.

You might have noticed that the x-rails fit to the main beams with tapped holes - that was to avoid problems with the taper inside the beam. (Beams of that size can often be found with parallel flanges, but that is not essential)

[Manjeet Singh]

Gerald,

I had seen the Fabrica table and the bottom supports channels(3x1.5) tagged to the main frame are tapered on both ends so it can be dressed up easilily. But on the main (6x3)U channels only tapered washers is a solution

Manjeet

[fabrica]

I have cut the end's of the cross bearers to accomadate the legs made from 3"x1.5" U Channels. This is to ensure that the Supports, (drawing no 10 10 304 which connects the legs to the cross bearers)cross bearer and legs are aligned on a straight line.

I will be replacing the existing washers with taper washers where it is required.

Cross Bearer with ends trimmed.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2509.jpg

Cross Bearer with ends trimmed and foot welded.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2510.jpg

[Gerald_D]

The most important drawing for you at this stage is 10 10 300 W.....

Top right corner: Control the Y+430mm dimension tightly. (If it is too big, the racks don't fit - too small and the rails overhang too much)

The other important aspect is to put the table off-center relative to the side beams, by about 100mm. Long explanation on the reason, but you'll have to trust me that it is a good thing to do now.

Enjoy the weekend! I'm off till Sunday.

[fabrica]

In places where all six legs are getting mounted the cross bearer has to be trimmed. I hope to complete this work today and do up the cross supports for legs tomorrow.

[fabrica]

The under side of the table is almost complete.

http://mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2525.jpg

[Gerald_D]

One very robust table!

Are you still going to use the bolts, or will you just weld everything together?

[Alan Conolly]

Fabrica, nice going, as Gerald said very robust. I see you are building on the floor, how do you avoid building in twist into the frame or are you not worried about that and will just shim the rails until they are all in the same plane?
To avoid problems with uneven floors I have built myself trestles with adjustable tops so that I can get everything in the same plane. Using a laser level makes it all easier.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2529.jpg

Currently using them to build roller conveyors but will also come into use when I start on the Mechmate.

[fabrica]

Gerald, Some Joints would be bolted and some would be welded. Everything to be done in such a way that the side weldments could be separated once the cross bars (which are bolted to the Bog C Channel) are removed. This is to ensure that the table could be dismanted and transported if the necessity arises.

Allen the floor is fairly even and we have made the final adjustments by inserting shims between the floor and the table befre we started the final fixing. I will upload more photos in another few hours time.

[fabrica]

The table made to stand on it's feet after all works on the table underside was completed.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2531.jpg

[fabrica]

Allen, Thanks for your input. I made the table to stand up on its feet. I checked the table for twisting. It is ok. The two big longitudanal C channels are virtually parallel to each other. The error is around 1 mm end to end. I checked the diagonal distances they are perfect. The toip surfaces of the Diagonal C cahnnels are on the same plane (No errors).

Gerald, When checking parrellel distances fo the two longitudanal beams they are Y+420 and not
Y + 430. I think I have made some mistake somewhere. But I assume this error is within the tolerance levels.

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, this is the reason I reminded you of the Y+430:

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2533.jpg

The cross-support should not have reached the edge - there should have a space of 5mm.

Don't worry about that tolerance.

Is all the material underneath C-section? If so, your table should twist quite easily if the top is not completely flat. You can just put some shims under one foot.

If you use tubing (square or round) underneath then it is not so easy to twist the table after welding.

[fabrica]

Yes Gerald you are dead accurate about Where I have gone wrong.

What you have mentioned in the other paragraphs is not clear to me. Can you explain a bit further.

[Gerald_D]

Are parts 10 10 306 and 10 10 312 made of closed box-section or open C-section? C-section twists easily, box section (pipe) does not twist easily.

You don't have any problems, that is a very solid table. However, if you look over the tops of the two rails and they are not parallel then there is a twist and you want to correct it. It is easy to correct with open C-sections because you can just put a piece of thin plywood under one foot and the other 3 feet will still touch the floor.

If you try the plywood spacer with a table made of box-section (pipes) then another foot will also lift off the floor because the table is stiffer. To twist such a table you can screw the feet to the floor and pull it flat.

[fabrica]

Both parts are made from Square box sections having dimensions of 2"x1" and thickness of 3 mm.

The C channels onto which the Rails are going to be mounted have no twist at all and the top is flat.

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, my eyes are deceiving me....all the pieces look the same size as the legs and cross-supports which are 3"x1.5". They do not look as small as 2"x1"??? Therefore I was assuming you used the same channel everywhere.

If that is 3"x1.5" box section then you win the prize for the strongest table so far! http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

[fabrica]

Let me re-check again tomorrow morning and conform everything. Too much of dimensional stuff has gone through my mind during the last couple of days. The 3 mm thickenss could be conformed even now.

[fabrica]

Gerald, today after finishing the underside we turned the table on it's legs.

Believe me,even a elephant could walk on it. It weighs more than 300 kg. Hats off to you for the design.

[fabrica]

Gerald I checked on the table dimensions today. The box channels are 3"x1.5" and 3 mm thick.

In fact all round bars in your drawings have been replaced with these box channels.

[fabrica]

The below picture shows how I have done one end of the x rail. Rail Bolted to table, rack mounting hole drilled and tapped, proxy hole drilled, stopper blocks welded and adjustment screw mounted.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2586.jpg

The below picture shows the X rails of the Mechmate bolted and aligned.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2587.jpg

[fabrica]

Gerald,Please go thorugh the last two pictures that I have uploaded and see weather they are in order.

I have done everything to the best of my ability. But with you being a experinced guy on this subject, you may observe some shortcommings in my work.

[Gerald_D]

Hi Fabrica, everything looks normal. The stop block looks a bit twisted, but that could be the photo. The block needs more welding if 80kg of gantry smacks it at 30 inches per second....

[fabrica]

Your suggestion accepted. WE will be doing more welding on the sides of the blocks. The blocks are ok not twisted, the picture is giving a wrong impression. I have finished the gantry today. Will post some pictures if possble now. Very tired after a hard days work.

[fabrica]

Just thought of Uploading some more picture of my project. I was supposed to complete the project by now. The major components which were due to arrive beofre Christmas has got held up due to the festive season.

Below given is the Y car waiting for the final coating of paint.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2614.jpg

Gantry, XY rails and clamping strips completed.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2615.jpg

Z Slide

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2616.jpg

Control Box

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/2617.jpg

[DocTanner]

Hey Fabrica,
Great job!!!!
You may want to check plan 10-20-454.
It says to bend in pair, one up and one down. and then again maybe I am looking at it wrong. I'm having mine bent tomorrow and was curios.
DocTanner

[Kim Mortensen]

Hey Fabricia, what have u used to make the Z-slide of, hardened steel og ordinary steel..???

KM

[Gerald_D]

Very good stuff!

The bend directions are not really important for that part.

Before the final coat of paint, I suggest you seal the joints with an acrylic filler such as "painter's mate (http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=17&pr=gmat)". Note: It must be an ACRYLIC filler and NOT a silicon filler. If you look closely at the MechMate photos you can see see how it was filled.

[fabrica]

Kim, I used Normal steel. But I am doing up another one with hardened steel. Just to keep as a backup.

Ok Gerald, I will do the fillup work with acrylic, thanks.

Doc, I think Gerald has answered your question.

[Manjeet Singh]

Hi Fabrica,

Great Job. I was looking at your progress right from the begining but couldnt jump in because I was very busy. now I am also ready to start building Mechmate. Please do tell from where did you get that Ycar cut and bent. I dont have any laser or water jet cutting machine around me. so how did you managed.

Manjeet

[fabrica]

Hey, Manjeet long time no see, where were you. I got the parts cut from a local company who has a laser cutting facility. The cost was around
US $ 500 including materials.

[Manjeet Singh]

Hi Fabrica,

Thanks, Very surprising that you have laser cutting machine in Kandy sri lanka. Its quite expensive one I couldnt find around me. I going to get done on plasma cutting.

Manjeet

Further discussion on Plasma cutting moved here (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/2625.html)

[fabrica]

The cutting was done in Colombo which is around 140 Km from Kandy.

[fabrica]

Manjeet, How are you progressing with your job. Hope you are doing fine. Please keep us updated on your progress. If any help is required we are always their to help you out. Have you completed your V rails.

[Manjeet Singh]

Hi Fabrica, Thanks for encouraging, I have ordered all the raw material for this "Beast MechMate" hope I will get them by tommorrow. Regarding V rails its not a problem for me as I have 12 feet planner so I will put the complete Mechmate frame in it and machine the rails in one shot to get more accuracy. Will let you know my progress as is goes up.

Manjeet

[fabrica]

Gerald, If everything proceeds well as expected I hope to have the "Mechmate" up and running during the next couple of days.

Where should I start from. I a new to CNC stuff. How am I to comission the machine ? What are the first steps that I should take? I am totally dependent on this forum to provide me with the guidence (criticism, advice) to make this whole project a succesfull and a enjoyable venture.

Other than Gerald their are so many other guys who could help guys like us. Please your presence felt. Once I get over the initial hickups and gain experiance on this CNC machining subject I would be more than willing to help other guys to overcome problems during the process of developing this wonderful machine.

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, yes, we need a set of "commissioning instructions". But, some suggestions for now....

1. Test your motor movement while the pinions are not engaged to the racks. Unhook the springs and swing the motors down away from the racks. Run simple programs in Mach3 and use the cursor keys to move the motors. Check if all the motor directions are correct. Check if your Emergency stop works.

2. If you have connected the proxy switches as limit switches, move the gantry & car to the limits by hand and see if they stop the freely turning motors.

3. When you do get brave enough to engage a pinion into a rack, start with only the y-car. And start with that car in the middle of the gantry.

4. Then engage the x-axis motors. Realise that one motor will be turning clockwise while the other turns anti-clockwise.

5. Finally the z-axis.

7. Follow the Mach instructions and videos to set the motor speeds and accels.

8. Then commission the router and cut the table top flat.

9. After flatting the table, then set the axes pependicular to each other.

Through this whole process, check Gecko's, motors and toroid for overheating. Check often - they work the hardest when the motors are just standing still! Don't disconnect motor cables unless the red light on the Gecko is off.

This should give you some idea.....

[fabrica]

OK thanks. Very restless until I see the beast moving around.

[Bill McGuire]

Congratulations Fabrica....
I'm envious. You have already helped me alot through your discussions and pictures!

[fabrica]

Bill, how much of progress have you made on your machine.

[fabrica]

Below given are some some pictures showing the progress of my project.

Below given is a photo of one motor mounted on gantry with springs loaded. You would also observe in the background the racks mounted on the underside of the X rail.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3233.jpg

The underside of the X rail showing the racks and pinions completed.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3234.jpg

Motors mounted on the gantry

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3235.jpg

Bushes mounted on underside of the router to facilitate the mounting on to the Router bracket.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3236.jpg


The underside of the router shown with bracket.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3237.jpg

The side view of the bracket with router.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3238.jpg

stoppers assy and mounts for proxies assembled on the Gantry.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3239.jpg

Z azis partially assembled.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3240.jpg

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, I am very, very impressed! Tonight I will have a glass of wine in your, and your engineer's honour!

After some digestion and celebration I will give you some detailed comments, but for now we just enjoy.... http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

[fabrica]

Thanks Gerald, for you encouraging comments. How could I enjoy with without seeing the beast (Mechmate)running around. I will not have a peacefull sleep until I see the machine in full flow. Believe me, during the past one week we all in our workshop has put in more than 10 hrs of work everyday to come upto this level.

[Gerald_D]

That beast is still a baby under its mother's care - be gentle with it. Don't force it to walk too soon.....http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

[Hugo Carradini]

What a nice job. Congratulations . It is really and inspiration for all off us that dream with a beauty like that. Please don't forget to show us your first cut.
Regards
Hugo Carradini

[fabrica]

Thanks for your compliments Hugo. I will definitly post the pictures of the cuts no sooner I start working.

[Gerald_D]

The router must sometimes work in "deep" areas and you want maximum space around the collet. Suggest you minimise distance C (to zero) and use countersunk head screws at B. Most important is to use the longest screws possible to use all the thread in the plastic at A.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3252.jpg

[fabrica]

Ok, I will do the required modification.

[Gerald_D]

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3254.jpg

Screw head A (8mm) is supposed to be a countersunk because there is a risk that it can touch the angle iron rail. Head B (10mm) is above the rail.

There is a secial trick to hold screw A while adjusting the nut for tension. The tip of the screw (other side, away from head) is slotted with a hacksaw and then a screwdriver can hold the screw from the "outside".

If you have enough space for the screw heads, then don't change anything.

[fabrica]

The wiring is done and for the last three hours we have been playing around with the mach3 software get the settings correct.

Maybe we still have not got the pins and other things configured properly. When we try to jog with the sofware the motors do not move. No voltage is developed at the outputs of the steppers drivers.

[Gerald_D]

I think it took me 3 days.......
I started on the kitchen table with one motor and one gecko - after that I built the gantries and cars.

A big problem for me was to understand what the E-stop does and how to "reset" the Mach main screen. Nothing will move while the reset button on the bottom left of the screen is flashing red - it must be only green.

[Gerald_D]

To see if Mach is working, you do not need the Gecko's and the steppers. You can just look at the PMDX board. There are LED's that will flash where the gecko wires are connected, when the step/direction pulses are received correctly.

The PMDX looks like a discotech when everything is working right.

[fabrica]

Ok Gerald maybe I made a mistake by during the process of posting.

This is what i wanted to inform you in the earlier post.

" Gerald Finally I got the motors to move (of course with racks detached from the pinions). What i did to overcome the situ was to switch the jumper settings on JP2. From the original pin connections of 2 to 3 I changed to 1 to 2. This made the PMDX card LED's to light up and the motors to move.

By doing this I have disabled the E-stops, Fault and charge pump circuits. After doing this change I never expected the E-stop to work. But it still did work. What could be the reason for this?

Another reason why I did this change was because I suspected (after reading your earlier mail) that the e-stop settings are a tricky issue. Once I sort out the other matters I could get back to this problem later. The charge pump was also enabled through mach 3 settings.

After changing jumper settings all 4 motors started to turn, other that one motor fixed to X axis (A axis, slave of X).

At the driver point I changed the wire connections (switched the wires connected to non working driver to to the driver which was working) and the non working motor started to work. We could suspect two things. Either the stepper driver is playing up or the Output circuit of the PMDX card which connects the faulty driver board is not working. At this point we called it a day and wound up operatins since it was 8.00 pm in the night.

One more thing which I observed in the suspected stepper driver unit was the the LED in that was glowing much more brightly than the other drivers which were working normally.

Gerald Can a stepper drive be repaired if it is faulty?. Anyway I have one spare driver board in stock.

[Brian_B]

fabrica,

The Gecko website has a nice "Stepper Motor Basics" page that will walk you through the theory and hookup. Go to: http://www.geckodrive.com/photos/Step_motor_basics.pdf

There are many similar pages available online as well. Another is:

http://www.rmsmotion.com/resources/step_basics_v1_0.pdf

Brian

[fabrica]

Brian, Thanks for your input. But how does the info provided by these links relate the issues that I have raised in my earleir mail.

The first issue which I raised was when I disabled the E-Stop (through jumper settings) to get the motors to turn how come the E-stop is still working.

The second issue was the problems that I am encountering with the Gecko drivers (only suspected not yet convicted).

[Gerald_D]

WELL DONE! You achieved in one day what took me about 3 days http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

In Config > Ports & Pins > Input Signals scroll down to the line EStop and look in the column "Active Low" change from green to red, or vice versa to get the e-stop to work correctly.

The driver LED's are not equally bright - I don't think that this indicates a fault. (Gecko will replace a faulty driver for free, but you have to arrange the transport). I am guessing you have a Mach ports&pins error, so I suggest you swap motors at the PMDX to see what happens.

[fabrica]

Ok I will swap motors at the PMDX point to see where things have gone wrong and post you the results by tomorrow morning before you start work (we are 2.5 hrs ahead of you). Now it's almost 11.30 pm over here. It's time for me to hit the deck after very strenuous and ejoyable day's of work.

[fabrica]

Checked the motors. It was was the driver which was faulty. Replaced the driver with new driver motor worked perfectly.From CNCZOne found a simiple way to check Gecko's. Info given below.

"Quick test. Disconnect the main connector, get a multimeter and set it to Ohms. Connect a probe to COMMON, then measure COMMON to STEP, then COMMON to DIRECTION. The reading you want to see is 1.2K give or take 5%. Get that and the drive is probably OK".

I followed the procedure and did the checking. Both readings were perfect. For the monet I will go ahead with the new Gecko and see what could be done with older unit later.

[fabrica]

I have encountered two more problems today morning while setting up the machine.

One motor on the x drive is getting too heated. The other issue is that the Z axis motor is rotating only in one direction.

[Gerald_D]

Hot motor: Check your resistor that you fitted to the Gecko. Do not trust your ability to read the colours on the resistor, use an ohm-meter to measure it. Measure all the resistors - if this one is different then that is the cause. If it is the same, then there is a setting under the cover of the gecko which must be checked.

Direction: On the PMDX there is a LED for each motor which shows the direction. Is this LED indicating the direction change correctly? (compare to the behaviour on the other motors) If it is, then check the wire connections between the PMDX and the gecko.

Strange gecko behaviour: nearly a year ago gecko had problems with bad connectors. They changed the supplier. Maybe you have one of these. The connector does not like to be removed many times from the gecko.

[fabrica]

The problem with motor heating was sorted. After changing the drivers we had not inserted the resistor on to the new driver.

The problem with the Z axis motor still exists. It is only moving in one direction. When we try to move it in the other direction it only makes a noise but the shaft does not turn.

One more thing that I observed was that when pressing the e-stop button, the LED on the PMDX card which is situated just above the output connectors lights up. This is very unusual.

[fabrica]

With regards to the lights on PMDX. For X,Y and A outputs the light tuns on when moving in one direction and does not light up when moving in the other direction. On the Z outputs the light turns on in one direction but is very faint.

[Gerald_D]

Is the Z-motor still disconnected from the rack? What happens if you swap that motor's wires to another gecko?

Your e-stop logic, with PMDX jumpers and Mach ports and pins settings is still mixed up. I have little experience to fix this because ours worked right and then I left it alone for more than a year. The only thing I can suggest is to put the jumpers as per the drawing above, put a temporary wire across the e-stop contacts (like the pmdx was supplied - J6 across e-stop and GND), and then play with the Mach settings until it works correctly. When you put the motors against the racks, then you can put the E-stop switch in that jumper wire at J6.

[Gerald_D]

Regarding the faint LED for the Z: Disconnect the wire below the LED (the one going to the Gecko) and see if it is still faint - maybe there is a short in that wire....

[fabrica]

The Z axis problem was sorted out, it had been a software issue (mach3).

I am starting to enjoy this Gerald.

[Gerald_D]

Can I relax now? http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

Would you agree now that it would be good to have the 4 motors on the kitchen table at home first? Do this in parallel to the steel construction....

Now you can tell us your secret? I am sure you have already connected the motors to the racks and made the beast move....http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/proud.gif

[fabrica]

The machine is moving well without any problems. Setting up the home point (0,0) and the limits.

Please educate me on the the rate of accelaration that a normal mechmate should run at. We increased acceleration once and the gantry jumped off the rails. May be we should increase the tension of the springs further. We have kept it at the lowest point.

[fabrica]

Hope I am not troubling you too much. Fully agreed on the kitchen table project.

Regarding your relaxation matter, no way. You have taught the wrong thing to a wrong guy.

[Gerald_D]

Our MechMate has direct drive motors, so the settings may not apply to you....Our settings X & Y axes are 500 mm/sec/sec and Z axis is 1500 mm/sec/sec. Our machine is set rather slow and lazy. If we drop the acceleration down much more then we get round corners for square parts.

Mach is developing the Quantum to replace Mach3 and this will completely change those acceleration values again.

The correct accel. values are the ones that feel right for you.

I guess it sounded like the gantry had jumped, or that the teeth of the pinion had jumped out of the rack - but if you look closely you will see that the teeth are not jumping. That noise comes out of the stepper motor when it jumps internal steps. Believe it or not, it is actually harmless - nothing is damaged. You just get a very loud warning that your stepper has lost a step or four. (Some people say you must use servo motors because you don't know if your stepper has lost a step - believe me, you do know when a stepper loses a step. It is loud!)

Regarding the spring tension, you had better check it against a scale (http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=IRFA%2CIRFA:2006-24%2CIRFA:en&q=spring+balance). The tension must be about 12kg. link (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/13/1872.html)

[fabrica]

Gerald, I found the reason why the gantry is climbing on to the x rails. The pionion wheel is slipping against the motor shaft. I have fixed only one grub screw.

Now I am fitting another one more screw on all motor shafts.

Can you advice me on setting the limits on the Z axis.

[Gerald_D]

Those grubscrews must be very tight - sometimes I destroy the spanner/key/wrench when tightening them.

The z-axis limits are now described in this thread (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/1168/3265.html).

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, once your router works, you need to go through quite a process of getting the axes square to each other. This is the time when you will be finally adjusting the x-axis limits and the shims behind the x-axis V-rollers. I will start another thread when you are ready for this. For now, get your router going so that you can cut the top of your table flat.

[fabrica]

Ok Thanks.

[fabrica]

Below given is a photo of the first cut I made with the Mechmate. The letters does not mean anything. Gerald, How is the quality of the cut. Do you think the machine is stable and free of unwanted vibrations.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3269.jpg

[fabrica]

Componets laid out before final wiring and getting mounted onto the box.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3271.jpg

[fabrica]

Gerald,

In the baove picture we have pushed the relay (instead of isolator switch)and router relay to the top to isolate A/C signals from the gecko drives.

[fabrica]

Gerald, I have another problem which needs to be solved with your advice.

When the gantry is moving at some points the motors on the x axis is moving very erratically. This is the reason for the Gantry to climb onto the x rail. When you look at the motors from the other end of the shaft you see it not moving at all but making a noise. It happens to both the X axis motors at the same time.

We changed the current limiting Resistors from 2 amp to 5 amp and finally to 1 amp, but the problem did not get solved. What should be the correct resistor.

We connected the second grub screw to all motor shafts and screwed them in very tightly but the same problem continued. It happens all of a sudden.

[fabrica]

Below given is photo of the final control we had. In our haste to get the thing going we had got the main wire which provdes a/c cpower to transformer bundled togethr with the screened running to motors bundled together and running out of the control box together through the same bottom hole.

Do you think that this is causing the erractic behaviour of the motors due to A/C riples being piched by the motor wires. The erratic behavou happens on most times when both the X and Y axis are moving together. This means more power running through the A/C power cord.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3273.jpg

[Gerald_D]

I can't see a problem with cut quality in that photo. Are you happy with it?

Does the erratic behaviour start at a certain speed? The current resistors depend on the motors and how you have wired them

Looking very quickly, I am a bit concerned about how close your big power supply is to the PMDX. That is not a toroid transformer and your power supply is maybe "noisy". The cable from the PC to the PMDX also looks thin - is it shielded? What are your motor wire shields connected to?

[fabrica]

Regarding cutting quality, I am very happy with it.

I have so far noticed any relationship with the erretic behaviour and speeds.

Gerald do you think that this errectic behaviour is noise related.

The transformer which we use were with us we did not bother to do up a toroid. But if everthing fails we could think of it.

The parallele cable is shielded. The motor wire shields are not connected to anything.

Do you think that we should the table as well.

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, glad to hear the cut quality is okay for you.

It is very difficult to diagnose this "erratic behaviour" because I can't see/hear it and it is not something that is common......

The ShopBots were fond of getting the shakes when the speed went too high and two axes had to move together. But you say your problem does not depend on speed. (The ShopBot issue was related to resonance of the gantry structure). Does it look like your V-rollers are bouncing up and down because of mechanical flexibility in the structure? I doubt it. (If this was the case, it would happen only at high speeds and dynamic movements).

Therefore, if it is not mechanical, then we must look for something electrical...and interference is the first thing that we worry about. Everything must be properly grounded. The table, the gantry, the y-car, the z-slide, and the shields of the cables. Only ground the cable shields at one end, the end nearest the control box. Also, the negative of the power supply must be attached to the same ground point as the shields, table, cars etc. If you do all this and the problem remains, we can look somewhere else. But it will not be a waste of time to do proper grounding - especially if you plan to use a dust sucker later.

[fabrica]

The v rollers are properly seated on the Rails while travelling from one end to the other (X and Y both).

I too feel that this is a problem created by electrical noise. OK, I will start work the comming Monday and start with concentrating totally on the elctrical side of issues.

I have a few questions to ask from you about this microstepping issue which I will ask you later.

[Gerald_D]

Did you adjust the trimpots on the gecko's for the lowest mid-band resonance?

[fabrica]

No.

[Gerald_D]

It must be done. See the gecko instructions.

[fabrica]

Gerald, In a earlier mail I could remember you asking me as to what model of motor I am using and also the way that I have wired it. You aked me these questions in order to advise me on what value of resstor to use on the driver.

The motor I use is PK296A1A-SG3.6 and I have two pairs of wires going into the two coils A and B.

TOday is a day off for us. But I would like to gather as much info and advice possible so that things would be easier for me tomorrow to see as to where I have gone wrong.

[fabrica]

To adjust the midband resonance you have set motor speed to 1/4 rev per second and adjust the pot until you hear a distinct null in the motors vibration. Am I correct?

[Gerald_D]

That motor is specified as 1.0 Amp when wired bipolar or 1.5 Amp when wired unipolar.

It has 6 leadwires - only 4 of the six wires are ever connected:

- if yellow and white are not connected then you have it as bipolar 1.0 Amp

- if other colours are not connected then it is unipolar 1.5 Amp (In this mode you only use half of the windings)

Set the resistor according your choice of wiring (it doesn't make a huge difference for a CNC router). Get the wiring wrong and you kill the gecko...

[fabrica]

Gerald, Do you have to provide a good earth to the table as well. At the moment it is not earthed and its sitting on a concrete floor.

[Gerald_D]

Yes, that is how to adjust the driver/motor resonance. Remember you have gearbox on the stepper - the 1/4 rev/sec is for the motor only.

The ground/earth issue is illustrated here (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/2/343.html). Use the earth point in the control box

[fabrica]

Gerald, As you assumed I too feel that this so called erratic behavior of the motors is due to electrical noise.

One final question the earth point (what you have reffered to in your earleir posting) in the control box is the alu plate onto which the Gecko drivers are mounted. And also the negative wire of the power supply (connected to the transformer) should also be connected to the same alu plate. The earthing leads comming from the table (x,y,z) should be connected to the same alu plate.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

[Gerald_D]

Yes, I use that plate for all the grounds/earths. Also the cable shields connect to the plate.

The table x,y,z earth wires are not separately coming to the plate - they are connected in series. If you start from the alu plate, a thick copper wire (+6mm2) goes to part 1010307, from there to 1020456, from there to 1030422 and finally from there to gauge plate in the z-slide

[fabrica]

Thanks Gerald.

[Manjeet Singh]

Well done Fabrica,

credits goes to your courage, promptness and hardwork which braught you a success. though I am having all the facilities yet I could not comple the work. I had got all the material today and I will be starting the table very soon and start the new thread within few days, as I got inspired from the Great Mr.Gerald and you I hope I will be the next one to complete the "MechMate Beast" Soon.
..Manjeet

[fabrica]

Manjeet Happy to hear that you are making some progress.

Gerald, After doing everything that I promised to to do today I still have this erratic behavoir on the motors.

I gounded all wires running from the Gecko's to the motors to alu plates. Connected the negative of the power supply to the same alu board. X,Y and Z were grounder in serise to the same alu board. Tuned the pot on the Gecko's to the minimum humm levels(to overcome midband resonance).

The symptoms on the final run I made in the evening were as follows.

While jogging (with only one axis working) the steppers were running without any problem on all three axis. When you run the machine on a programme where all three axis start to work together we get some motors to miss their steps and direction specially at the accelataration stage of moving.

We took the router wiring completly out of the control box. Even the on/off switch was disabled and was done manually at the router point. Still nothing changed. We closed shop at 7.00 pm today. Tomorrow out first job would be to take the transformer out of the box and see weather this component is the culprit of undue noise generation. At this point we are almost sure that what we are encountering are noise related problems.

Even after taking the transformer out if the problem still persists I would replace the PMDX card to see weather this unit is diffective.

[Gerald_D]

If the the acceleration factor in Mach3 (motor tuning) is set too high, then it is completely normal for a motor to get overloaded and lose steps during the accel. stage of the movement. But then it will do it also when runnning only one axis....

Does your power supply perhaps lose voltage when it has to push 4 motors? Is there a regulator in your power supply that starts to clip/oscillate? The transformer is maybe too small? (should be around 300VA - looks much smaller in the photo). You say it is a standard power supply in your company - can you give each axis its own supply as a test?

[DocTanner]

Fabrica,
Is your computer fast enough? An underpowered computer would cause these same symptoms.

DocTanner

[Gerald_D]

Very true Doc. Thanks. (How is your animal behaving itself?)

At this point I don't think it is an interference issue.

Extremely unlikely that the PMDX has anything to do with it....it is actually a pretty dumb device. MUCH more likely the PC driving the PMDX.

[fabrica]

My settings for acceleration for x and Y axis is 500 mm/sec and for Z it is given as 1500 mm/sec.

The transformer which we are using was just lying around in our factory. It has a wattage of around 1500 Watts. This is putting out 48 V AC into the PMDX 135-8020 power preparation module. The powder comes out of the prower prep module after getting multiplied by a factor of 1.66.

If everything fails I will provide each axis a individual power supply.

The computer is a Dual core running at 2.8 Ghz with 1 GB RAM.

Could any software on the PC be interfearing with the signals.

[DocTanner]

Fabrica,
Your computer is more than adequate. There are a lot of things that interfere with Mach3. It wants fulls control There is a file on Mach's website http://www.machsupport.com/optimisation%20XP.txt Backup your system first!!!

[fabrica]

Doc, Up from 4.00 am trying to figure out this problem.

Since you pointed me towards the problems that I may have on the computer side. Below given are my observations while setting up mach 3.

The mach version I use is Version R2.0.015. Does this have a special driver for PMDX cards. I could not find the PMDX option in the drop down list while configuring the mach 3. On the device manager list I found the PMDX card listed as a pulse generator.

[fabrica]

Does the PMDX card have a driver for it. It is definitly not plug and play.

[fabrica]

Gerald, As you very well know the motors that I use are Oriental PK296A1A-SG3.6. On the motor it mentions a stepping rate of 0.5 degrees per pulse. Is this after considering the Gearing ratio.

I understand that normal steppers operate at 1.8 deg/pulse.

Microstepping is done at the Gecko drives is it?

[Gerald_D]

It is very early here...have to got to work. The PMDX card has zero intelligience, zero memory - it cannot even talk to a PC to tell that is plug&play. A PC could never detect its ID. It cannot use a driver (too stupid), so there is no driver for it. You could connect the printer cable direct to the geckos (some people do this) but the PMDX makes the wiring easier - that is why it is called a "parallel breakout card".

The 0.5 degrees is after considering the gear ratio.

[fabrica]

Gerald, In the morning cleaned up the computer as per the intructions given in the link provided by doc.

We feel that their is slight improvement in the smoothness of the motors.

Now when engaging the router on a samlla cutting programme (without tool) the motors are moving smoothly when cutting straight lines. When cutting arcs all three motors on x and Y axis stagger and move.

Gerald, on the motor tuning and setup screen you get two inputs called step puls (1-5) and dir pulse. What is the normal velocity you use for all axis.

[Gerald_D]

Cutting speeds are mostly in the range 1800 to 3600 mm/min. Sign letters in MDF typically 2400 mm/min. Just cutting a lot of straight shallow grooves at 7200 mm/min.

[fabrica]

Gerald now the only problem (for the moment) that I am facing is that while only one axis is moving (cutting on a straight line) the movement is ok and smooth. When two or more axis are moving (cutting arcs and circles)the whole gantry is jerking.

Gerald, on the motor tuning and setup screen you get two inputs called step puls (1-5) and dir pulse. Whet do these two inputs mean.

[fabrica]

I have just started to move the bulky transformer and place it outside the control box.

[Gerald_D]

On Saturday afternoon I asked if the problem was speed related and you said it was not....

It is known on ShopBots, and also on the MechMate, that the gantries and cars start to resonate at higher speeds when cutting arcs and circles. This problem is definitely speed related.

From the mechanical side it is critical that the V-rollers sit very correctly and firmly on the rails. The Y-car must have the spring roller (M130100) on the side away from the motor.

But, the above problem does not cause the motors to lose/gain steps. You are telling me that you are gaining/losing steps?? We have to be very clear about this.

If you cut around a full circle, and you have the erratic problem, does the cutter finish at the starting point, or is there an error?

error = electrical problem
no error = mechanical problem

[Gerald_D]

"on the motor tuning and setup screen you get two inputs called step puls (1-5) and dir pulse. Whet do these two inputs mean." I think it is a way of lengthening the pulses coming from the PC - have never used them so I don't know.

[fabrica]

On saturday afternoon Gerald we were working on the jogging mode. We ran the machine fast and slow but the problems that we encountered happened while running fast as well as slow. That is why I informed you that speeds are not linked to the problems encountered.

We checked the V rollers and also the bearing fitted to the opposite side of motor mount on Y car. They were ok.

To get a conformation on weather this was mechanical or electrical related problem we disengaged the Pinions from the racks and ran a circle cutting programme. All three motors are jerking while turning. We are now very sure that this is a electically related problem.

We also cut a full circle with motors engaged to racks although the movenet of the gantry is Jerky the circle was ok it ended up at the same place.

We are still working.

[DocTanner]

Trouble Shooting:
Disengage motors by removing the springs
Gantry should go from one end to the other with a firm push
Y-car should do the same
Z-axis should remain stationary with motor spring removed.
All v-wheels should remain in full contact during all of this. Movement should be very smooth.
With springs replaced, Move the gantry. It should take a firm push to move.
Reverse movement of the gantry. There should be no "slack" when going from one direction to the other.
Slack indicated a loose pinion gear
Do the same for each axis.
Use pin connector for every connection to breakout board and Gecko
If you don't have a quality crimping tool for pin connectors, then it's best to solder then cover with heat shrink tubes.
Motor wiring: From Gecko to motor:
Pin 1 Ground
Pin 2 Power <---possible culprit "I'm using 70 volts from toroidal transformer"
Pin 3 Coil A = PK296A1A black
Pin 4 Coil A~ = PK296A1A green yellow Do Not Connect- Insulate from any contact
Pin 5 Coil B = PK296A1A red white Do Not Connect- Insulate from any contact
Pin 6 Coil B~ = PK296A1A blue
Pin 7 Not Connected
The PMDW-122 board is recommended, but a simple breakout board will work for trouble shooting
Pin 8 Direction - From Breakout board
Pin 9 Step Pulse - From Breakout board
Pin 10 "Common" 5 volts <---- from computer or breakout board (correctly jumpered PMDX-122)
Pin 11 resistor 8.2K 1/4 watt resistor
PIN 12 other end of resistor

If everything checks out, then go to www.machsupport.com/videos.htm (http://www.machsupport.com/videos.htm) They have some great tutorials.

Hope it helps.

[Gerald_D]

"we disengaged the Pinions from the racks and ran a circle cutting programme. All three motors are jerking while turning. We are now very sure that this is a electically related problem.
" Well done! That is a very helpful diagnosis. The problem sure is electrical or software.

Because the circle completes fully and there are no errors in position, I believe that interference is not the problem.

It looks like Mach3 and your PC are having problems giving evenly and correctly spaced pulses to the steppers.

I hope that you have the Mach kernel speed set to 25kHz. Config > Ports & Pins. I have heard that you shouldn't set it higher unless you have a very good reason.

May I suggest that you take this problem to the Mach support forums?

[fabrica]

Gerald,

Problem sorted out!

I do know that in the process of sorting out my problems I blew your fuse on sevaral occasions.

My computer guy whom I recruited to the design jobs on Artcam had accidently enabled the Auto limit overide button on the settings page (press Alt6 on main menu). He has done this to overcome a problem at some point of our testing stage and forgoton to switch it back to the disabled stage.

I feel that when we are overiding limits on mach 3 the programme goes on to a safe mode and due to this does not obey many of the commands that go through a G code based sequence of events (programme). This is why the machine behaved well while running on the Joging mode and not on a programme mode.

[fabrica]

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3278.jpg
Just to prove a point I thought of uploading the above given pic. These cuts were made before the exact prob was identified and also at the time of these cuts the motors were very gerky in their movements. Can the pictures prove any of these misbehavoir.

[Gerald_D]

Very glad to hear that you found the problem!!

Also very sorry to hear that I give the impression that I have blown fuses. I know that I have an abrupt manner, but please don't read it as angry. This project is squeezed in between other projects and I mostly don't have time to talk about the weather and cricket http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

[fabrica]

Gerald, I know that you would be one of the happiest guys to learn that I have overcome this tricky issue.

It is now 11.10 pm local time. I was waiting for a response from you before I hit the deck.

Talking about blowing fuses, Don't take it up too personally. The remark was made just to inject some houmuor into a very formal discussion on this thread and theirby to make it a bit more lively.

I also wish to mention here on this thread that if not for the strict dicipline that you have enforced on this forum this disucuusin board would have been loaded with a lot of unwanted crap.

Hats off to all you guys in this forum who made my life easier in the process of making this machine into a working beast, specially you Gerald.

My story does not end here. If I do not encounter anymore serious issues in the next couple of days I would stop all activities on the machine, dismantle all components and start to give everything a good finsh. Once this is done I will post a lot of pics for you guys. By doing so if I could make life somewhat easier for the guys who will be building Mechmates in the future, I would be the happiest guy under the sun.

[fabrica]

Thanks Doc for your efforts very much appriciated.

[Stephen Hull]

fabrica,
Following your progress has been, for me, like an exciting story, unfolding, wondering what was going to happen next. And what a great ending.
Also your input of questions and answers has been extremely helpful. I have parts coming in the next few weeks.

Stephen

[DocTanner]

Congratulations!!!!!!!!!
Does this mean you get the serial number 000001SR? http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif I reckon I need to apply for 000001US lol It is quite impressive to see one of these things running for the first time. Several problems I encountered were solved by following your log. Now the difficult part begins: the software.

[fabrica]

Stephen, Doc Thanks for your compliments. Hope you guys could finish off your machines as soon as possible. Believe me once the machine starts to work it's a joy to watch.

[Hugo Carradini]

Clap Clap Clap Clap Congratulations I think there wass a lot of people hopping for your success and fallowing very carefully this tread that turn out into something very instructive and professional. Hope to see son those pictures that I am sure are going to complement all of us that are starting to get ready to build these wonderful machine.
Regards
Hugo Carradini
PD ¿Any video coming soon?

[Gerald_D]

The whole forum went silent while everyone was watching the contest between Fabrica and his beast. In the end the beast was tamed. http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/proud.gif

[Normand Blais]

Wow as lively as a hockey game! 1 -0 for Fabrica in overtime. (Here the criket are frosen under the ice rink this time a year)

[fabrica]

Gerald, Shall I start to upload pics immedietly or can I do it after doing all the finishing work.

[Gerald_D]

Don't be shy to show a naked machine now - there might be some comments on things that need mods before painting.

[fabrica]

Ok I will start from tomorrow. Spent the whole day today doing up a dust collector and fixing home switches.

If I am to do a vac hold down what should the specs be for a vacuum pump. If I know the correct specs maybe I could find a used one from a Junk yard.> Discussion taken here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274)

[Gerald_D]

Hi Fabrica

You have been very quiet in the last few weeks - how about some news? I want to see blue paint! http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

I am thinking of a special gallery of finished machines linked directly to the front page of the MechMate website. "Finished" means running, cutting, painted "Ford" blue and the official logo on the side of the gantry. You might still beat Doc Tanner to the no. 1 spot... http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/wink.gif

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica sent me a message to say that he will be back here in a few days - he has been spending time abroad in Singapore.

[David Rosenbleeth]

Gee Gerald-You sound just like someone who's first baby is late!!! http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/smile.gif

[Gerald_D]

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

[fabrica]

Please let me apologize for the long absence from this forum. This was due to personel reason I had to travel abroad.

I do observe that a lot of progress has been made by a lot of guys during my period of absence. Well done guys.

The discussions are hotting up by the day. That is good news for everybody.

[fabrica]

Gerald, Where can I find the dxf files of the logo.

[Gerald_D]

Any of the .dxf files for CNC profile cutting (.zip) (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/board-auth.cgi?file=/950/Profiles06Dec06.zip) have the logo in the title block of the drawing. That logo is then also in .dxf format - it can be accurately scaled to any size.

[Irfanulla]

Daya- Hi,

Pictures speak more than words- No pictures yet , its like making us more desperate by the day....Though this is the post after long time i think u might have some photos of your machine in what u can call as birthday suite. No paint- and unfinished.....please post them if u have them

Regards
IRfan

[fabrica]

Irfanulla, Just give me a few more hours. I will uplaod the pics.

[fabrica]

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3388.jpg

The control box in the process of being wired.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3389.jpg

The inside of the control box. Three fans mounted, two blowing in and one sucking out.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3390.jpg

The power in and out sockets mounted on to the box. The box was done locally in our workshop.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3391.jpg

The coil being separated by a Alum enclosure to minimise electrical noise filtering out.



The control box wired and ready to go.

[fabrica]

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3394.jpg

The motors driving the X axis mounted on the Gantry. The wire which connect the motors to Control box are screened to avoid noise pickup.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3395.jpg

The inside of the Gantry shown. Observe the limit switches being mounted. These limits function as homming switches as well. In my Mechmate the the X and Y axis are being homed in by these switches. The Z axis Zero is still done manually. The yellow box into which a Red push button is is mounted is the E-Stop.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3396.jpg

The other side of the gantry shown. The Yellow wire is the earth wire.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3397.jpg

The cables being routed through the cableway.The green and yellow wires are earth wires. These wires are connect in series the Z, Y and X axis and is grounded.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3398.jpg

The Pic shows the Z axis. The limit switch is mounted at the top. I will uplaod a pic from the front side tomorrow.This will give you'll a clearer picture.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3399.jpg

The legs of the Table and the Rack being shown.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3400.jpg

The complete machine shown ready to go into production sans the Mechmate Logo. This would be fixed tomorrow and more pics uploaded.

[fabrica]

If any of you guys need more pics of the machine. You are most welcome to route such requests through this forum.

[Gerald_D]

Applause! http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/proud.gif

(I could make a few comments, but first I have to drink a glass of wine to your honour....)

[fabrica]

Gerald, If not for you specially and and the other guys in this forum this machine would have never seen daylight. Hat's off to all you guys for helping me.

I am open to critisisms and suggestions. I love it. It is only through such comments that you could perfect your machine and also at the same time use this forum to build the best available machine under the sun which gives you good value for money.

[Irfanulla]

Fabrice Thumbs upto you,

Good to see the machine work, probably u might post a video later.....Gerald u have details on teh mains wiring, or fabrica can u provide me the main wiring, cause though of topic teh controller I made using the UHU controller makes the MCB at home trip every time i try to put on the controller, probably there is a soft start switch for teh power supply, meaning the stuff next to your torroid transformer in picture 4 , what are those and how have you interfaced the proximity switches to teh Mach soft ware.

BTB are u in one of the pictures holding the file

Good luck cutting wood..........

[Gerald_D]

Irfanulla, I have created a special thread to discuss Fabrica's control box over here (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/3401.html). The pictures are duplicated there.

[Gerald_D]

Fabrica, some of your orientations are unusual. I am trying to figure out which corner of your table is x,y = 0,0. My normal experience is....

- the y-motor is towards the x=0 side,
- the cables hanging from the gantry, going to the control box, are at y=max.
- the router is off-center in the y-car and located as close as possible to the y-motor. (makes bit changing easier from the 0,0 side and is nearer the y-rack.)

We walk a lot on the y=0 side and that is why we prefer the cables on the other side. (We walk there because most jobs are clamped on the y=0 baseline.)

[fabrica]

The Y motor (shaft of the motor) is towards the X=0 side. Yes

Cables hanging from Gantry going to control box are at Y=Max. Yes

Router is off centre all right but must check and see waether it is mounted nearest to the Y motor. I am stiull at home.

Irfanulla can you re-phrase your question. For example what do you mean by "UHU controller and topic Teh Controller"

[fabrica]

Gerald, When you look at my last photo, The X=0 and Y=0 is at the extreme left corner (on the side where you see a open window and through which you would see some banana trees).

This machine will not be located in this place for more than another month. We are putting up a building for that purpose. This baby definitly deserves a better location than this junk room.

[Gerald_D]

The operator of the machine will spend most of the time at the 0,0 corner, or along the x=0 edge. From there he must have good visibility of the cutter, but I think your cable chain causes some obstruction. This (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/814.jpg) is our view from 0,0. (Also consider the dust foot & pipe orientation.)

[fabrica]

Yes Gerald, You have a point here. I will get the cable shifted to the otherside. I am awaiting the arrival of the cableway shipment. What I have used is the little that I had available with me.

[Gerald_D]

If you move the cableway to the other side, then it will collide with the y-motor. You need to swop the y-motor and cableway with each other. Leave the router and y-car as it is.

While you are fiddling with the cables, I would suggest to increase the size of the earth/ground wires. We use about 10mm2 meaning the copper part is more than 4mm in diameter. I know it sounds hard to believe, but I am simply following the practice on other industrial equipment - very thick ground wires for absolute lowest resistance.

[Gerald_D]

Were your stepper motors open on the back? I strongly suggest you put a label/tape over those holes because the dust gets into the bearings. That hole traps dust and your operator will try to blow it out with compressed air - he will force the trapped dust into the bearing. (I had to replace bearings on my first stepper motors because of dust).

[fabrica]

Yes, They were open in the back. I will seal it today.

[fabrica]

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3429.jpg

The Z axis from the front.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3430.jpg

The underside of the Gantry and the X rail.


http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3431.jpg

Machine with logo on the Gantry.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3432.jpg

Control box with logo.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/3433.jpg

The Y car with logo.

[DocTanner]

Fabrica,

Well done!!! A very nice looking machine.

DocTanner

[fabrica]

Thanks Doc, I hope you too too are progressing well with your machine.

[Hugo Carradini]

Clap, Clap, Clap, Clap.
Congratulations, it has been a pleasure to fallow your thread from the beginning to this relevant moment. I have been so interested in your progress that I am going to miss your commentaries. Hope you don't desist of the laser idea .
Regards and success.
Hugo Carradini

[fabrica]

How in the world can you miss my commentaries. I would always be their to share my experiances with you guys.

[Hugo Carradini]

Ha Ha Ha, good answer.

[Gerald_D]

This thread has a new title. http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

[fabrica]

Gerald, What's it goin to sound like?

[Gerald_D]

It is already changed - look at the list of threads and now you will see this one:

My project completed! - Fabrica (Sri Lanka) - Serial No. 1

[fabrica]

Thanks For the Title, Gerald. It's a honour.

[Irfanulla]

Hello Fabrica,

Any pictures of your 4 th axis in progress.......

Regards
Irfan

[fabrica]

I will upload some pics today. I have turned out most of the parts. Just a matter of assembling them.

[Irfanulla]

Thats great Fabrica, what software are you going to use to generate the Gcode for the 4 axis. Artcam?

are you using another gecko to power your 4th. axis stepper?

Nice to know u here....some day i will fly to srilanka and meet you.

Let me complete my router first.

Thanks in Advance for the photos you are going to post.

CYA

[Greg J]

Fabric,
WOW, very nice work. I'm new here and have just started the process (printing plans, ordered the laser cut parts, etc. etc.)

I hope my finished mech mate is half as good as yours. I'm already changing the round supports on the base to boxed members.

[Irfanulla]

Fabricaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Photos please........you know your photos will influence design of my router, pls do post the photos.......

Thanks in Advance
IRfan

[Gerald_D]

We only needed 4 runs and still had 5 wickets.....and then Malinga! Did you stay up to watch?

[fabrica]

I was unable to watch the match since I was in Singapore on that day and in that country they never show cricket matches. Anyway I was told that it was a pretty interesting game.

Our country is becomming quite famous for comming out with bowlers who tend to have unique bowling actions. Yesterday night Chris Gayle did not know what was being thrown at him.

[fabrica]

This is a door design which I did with MDF

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/329/15118.jpg

[Kim Mortensen]

nice work fabricia....

[fabrica]

Thanks Kim.

[Gerald_D]

Hi Fabrica, of course I was cheering for your team on Saturday - you did very well! The door is nice too!

How are your machines numbers 2 and 3 coming along? Any laser fireworks yet?

[David Rosenbleeth]

Fabrica: That type of design begs for three dimensional (2.5 to the purists!)execution. That does, of course, mean that the machining time goes up severely, but so does the value. If you do not have the software to model this and would like to see what can be done with it send me the dxf and I will play with it a bit and send it back to you as a relief. I have a little extra free time right now and wouldn't mind the "assignment".

Dave

[fabrica]

Gerald, these Aussies are super Humans maybe we should ban them from playing international for a few years until the rest of the nations play catchup with them.

I still have not started on the 2nd and 3rd machines. I have got down the laser (60 Watt, universal U.S.A). These days making the mount to fix laser on to the existing Y car. If any guy is interested in getting to know more about this project please let me know.

David, Thanks for your kind thoughts I will send the dxf file to you tomorrow. Today it's a Holiday in Sri Lanka.

[Arthur Ransom]

How about starting a seperate section on the laser?

[Hugo Carradini]

Hello fabrica. I will also be very interested in fallowing your progress with the laser.

[fabrica]

Good Idea Arthur get Geralds permission.

[fabrica]

Arthur, How is your 4th axis project progressing.

[Gerald_D]

A laser is just another "toolhead" in my book - here (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/15123.html) is a thread for that.

[Arthur Ransom]

I have all the parts to rebuild the gantry and have the laser cut parts welded. It is slow going between business and my wife having heart bypass surgery. Surgery went well and she was home in 5 days. Realy fantastic since she had a 20" cut down the front. After 2 days she went back with a post operative infection and had 2 more surgeries to remove the infected material and replace the removed flesh after the infection was under control. She gets out of intensive care today and will be moved to a ward where she will spend up to a month getting her strength back before she comes home. Fortunitly both of us are Army vets and are covered by the Vererans Administration medical center. Also the VA hospital here in Dallaes is a teaching hospital and has all the latest equiptment. Ironic, I spent 17 years in Special Operations and the only time I got seriously hurt was on a parachute jump in the States and have normal medical problems and she was in Combat Engineers and has a lot of problems. A little know fact is that in Special Ops we have more hurt in training than in combat.

[fabrica]

Happy to hear that your wife is recovering after a big and complicated surgery. We wish you all the best.

[fabrica]

With a mechmate can you achieve the same results that are being achieved with a gravograpgh, specilly when it comes to engraving small letters in Stainless steel and bronze surfaces. I have tried this with Onsrud tools bits specially meant for steel surface engraving with not so happy results. The letters do not look as fine and neat as you get with a dedicated engraving machine like Gravograpgh. The roter speed I operated on was 18,000 RPM.

[fabrica]

The link to the Onsrud tool that I employed to engrave letters on a steel surface is given below.

http://www.onsrud.com/pdf/NewProducts.pdf

[Daya]

Hi Guys, I am back again. I Hope that I have not missed out on much.

[Gerald D]

Welcome back. Not too much happened this side. Is your laser running yet?

[Hugo Carradini]

Hello Fabrica. Nice to hear you are back.

[domino11]

Fabrica,
Any news on your Mechmate? Laser working yet? More project photos? :)

[Daya]

The mechmate is up and running again. I am still to fix the laser. No sooner it is done I will upload the pics.