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Gerald_D
Sat 03 June 2006, 14:44
This thread is intended to discus the points that determine the "quality" of a control box....

To kick off, the following pics show a poor quality of connection:
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/862.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/863.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/864.jpg
The copper shouldn't be exposed outside the terminal by that much. A slip of a measuring probe could cause a short.

Good terminal blocks have deep separators:
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/865.jpg

Here is another terminal block that has good separation between the wires:
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/866.jpg

But the Gecko terminals are a bit too shallow and close for 80V 7Amp applications and I feel that the terminals shown below are needed:
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/867.jpg

These terminals are crimped with the following tool:
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/868.jpg
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/869.jpg

Steve M
Sat 03 June 2006, 18:40
If you touch the exposed heads of the lock down screws on the terminal block, you also cause a short.

Gerald_D
Sat 03 June 2006, 23:37
Steve, have you noticed the big bare leads on the other side of that terminal block? They are the legs of the G202's internal capacitor.

The exposed copper I showed above is not serious, but it can get worse. For us guys with poor eye-sight, we can't easily tell when one copper strand has not entered the terminal properly and is threatening to visit its neighbour.

Some guys would "tin" the strands together with solder, but that practice is frowned upon by others. The crimped lugs are just so darned easy, but they take up space.

Gerald_D
Sun 04 June 2006, 13:25
Here are some more arguments for the crimped end terminations. At first glance, the wire on the left is fine, but on closer inspection it has a stray. When it is removed, it looks like a birdnest:


http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/871.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/872.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/873.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/874.jpg


A basic problem is that the strands of the wire are too fine - this happens when very flexible wires are used in panels


Another problem is that the stripping process easily cuts some copper away:


http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/875.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/876.jpg


When a wire is removed from a terminal, it should look as on the left. The right side version is messy and dangerous because the little broken strands fall into other circuits and cause shorts:


http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/877.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/878.jpg

Broken strands after tightening is often caused by the type of terminal where the rotating screw rubs directly on the strands. Use better terminals of the "cage-clamp" type.

Twisting wires together before clamping in a terminal can work, but it mostly gets messy:


http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/879.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/880.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/881.jpg


The insulated crimp lugs solve a lot of these issues:


http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/882.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/883.jpg


A basic rule is that a maximum of 2 wires may be fitted to a terminal. And most times a pair of wires will only be properly clamped if:
- they are twisted together first, or
- they are exactly the same size and lie side by side.

The crimped pins in the last pic show that the pins are the same size even though the wires are completely different sizes. (The colour on the crimped pins give the wire size only).

Good wired joints can be disconnected and re-connected a good number of times without degrading the connection. An inspector will tug quite hard on a couple of joints and he will undo a few suspicious ones to see what is happening inside - any single failure and whole panel must be redone.

Mike Richards
Tue 06 June 2006, 21:13
As someone who has worked on a lot of machines during the past thirty years, I can vouch for everything that you've posted, Gerald. Much of my work has been with Kodak design and built photo printers (S-series mainly). Kodak was famous for connecting everything via open terminal strips. At least they used crimped ring-style connectors; but, because the terminal strips were open, anything falling onto them, including dropped multimeter probes, destroyed things. When I started servicing European machines, particularly Durst and Gretag from Germany (at the time - both companies have changed hands and countries multiple times), I was amazed at the difference in wiring. The Durst and Gretag used the same practices that you've shown. They were neatly laid out. The 2.5mm DIN connection blocks were numbered. Scope and meter probes could be used without worry. Years ago, I copied them, except for the crimped lugs - which I'll start using immediately. After all, it's faster and easier to crimp something than it is to solder the exposed wires. (Maybe the lead in the solder is the real reason for my approaching insanity.}

Gerald_D
Sat 17 June 2006, 09:17
The first check by an inspector is often the floor of the box. Any signs of copper lying there and the box is condemned on the spot.

Posed photos:

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/917.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/918.jpg

Gerald_D
Sat 17 June 2006, 09:23
How to "strain relieve" the fine "drain" wire of "Mylar screen":

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/3347/921.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/3347/922.jpg
Mylar screen used inside the control box only, where the cables don't flex.

krymis
Wed 16 August 2006, 21:59
what do you call the connectors used to wire into the gecko drives? Where would one find these?

Gerald_D
Sat 19 August 2006, 11:19
BlockMaster DGPBP111 from www.blockmaster.com (http://www.blockmaster.com) are the ones that Gecko now use (and supplied with each drive). Beware, there are also many generic equivalents, but you must ensure that they connect positively - a bad connection can blow the drive.

Alan_c
Sun 05 August 2007, 13:09
Some guys would "tin" the strands together with solder, but that practice is frowned upon by others. The crimped lugs are just so darned easy, but they take up space.

Why would the practice of tinning be frowned upon?.

The size of the crimped lugs makes it very difficult to insert two wires into one terminal block, with the result that in those instances I find I have to leave the lugs off and just insert the stripped wire straight into the terminal, I am less than happy with this approach and would rather tin the wires first.

Gerald D
Sun 05 August 2007, 13:51
Alan, from personal experience, solder tinned wires come loose because solder (lead) always relaxes under load. Also the rosin/acid seems to attract moisture and fuzzy growths. Some people will object to the lead content.

The DIN-rail terminal blocks can happily take 2 or 3 wire ends without pre-crimped lugs. Their entries are deep and they give good separation from one terminal to the next. See photo near top of thread.

Marc Shlaes
Sun 05 August 2007, 14:28
Gerald and / or Mike Richards,

I have never had any faith in my crimped connections. Now I know why. My crimper, although a decent quality Thomas & Betts tool, is a combination strip, cut, and crimp tool. When I look at the picture of your crimp tool, I see that it is a nice looking dedicated crimper. Made to just crimp. Combination tools are usually not very good at any one thing.

Therefore, I am looking at the McMaster catalog to buy one. (I am fortunate that I have a McMaster distribution center near my house. Very handy!) They have many different models.

Models for insulated and non-insulated (that one I can figure out)

But they have models for:

Ring and spade lugs
Quick disconnect connectors
Open barrel.I figured out that open barrel are the types found in automobile wiring harnesses. Are the quick disconnects the pin lugs that are shown in your pictures? If they are, what is the differences between the crimp portion of the terminal between quick disconnect connectors and the ring and spade lugs. I can't see why the crimper would 'care' between those. Therefore, I bet that the quick disconnect terminals are something else and I want the one for ring and spade lugs.

Please straighten me out!

To boil it down, could you tell me which tool I want??

Thanks,

Marc

Richards
Sun 05 August 2007, 21:55
Marc,
I use a tool similar to the 5722K12 found on page 723 of the McMaster-Carr catalog. The tool that I use only handles three wire sizes, but it is a ratcheting type tool that has always made a 'proper' crimp.

Gerald D
Mon 06 August 2007, 00:50
Marc, see last post in this thread "Tools needed to build and operate the MechMate - gift ideas (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81)". I have used expensive and cheap versions of the same tool and they all crimped very well.

Marc Shlaes
Mon 06 August 2007, 08:30
Thanks gentlemen.

Although I have done a lot of wiring (rewired the last three houses I have owned) that is more like doing plumbing. This is a bit differrent. In any case where I rewired something in my woodshop where terminal connectors were required, my tool never made a single crimp on an insulated connector that I trusted. I finally quit using insulated connectors and started insulating them myself with shrink tubing. I should have just taken the time to find a real crimper.

I'm old but I can still learn!

Gerald D
Wed 29 August 2007, 00:18
Last night there was a discussion on soldered wire ends on the Gecko Yahoo forum. What follows is an extract from http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/geckodrive/message/12638 , a post by Mariss of Geckodrives (http://www.geckodrive.com/):

"1) Never solder tin stranded wire that goes into a compression type
connector. The connector relies on stranded wire to conform to the
shape of the connector when compressed to create a reliable, gas-tight
connection.

1a) Solder tinning prevents this and contact is made at only a few
microscopic contact points. This degrades the contact resistance.

1b) Solder has a tendency to flake like graphite when wire flexes in a
compression connector. It's what leaves the black stains on your
fingers if you wipe a wire when used like that. These flakes oxidize
and further degrade the wire to connector contact resistance.

1c) The solder to no solder transition on the stranded wire is a
stress concentrator and invites fatigue failure and separation of the
wire at that junction after a very few flexure cycles. Unsoldered
stranded wire endures far more flexure cycles.

1d) NASA workmanship guidelines expressly forbid solder tinning of
stranded wires for use with compression type connectors. It's that bad."

Marc Shlaes
Wed 29 August 2007, 06:32
Gerald,

I did go buy that Harbor Freight crimper that you suggested and it works great. Very professional crimps that were NOTHING like what my last tool would do. Thanks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93977

Doug_Ford
Sun 21 October 2007, 09:23
Gerald,

I want to use those plastic connectors you used to plug your stepper motors to the flexible cable. I surfed the web and Molex has a good selection. Is there any reason I shouldn't buy and use the type that computer manufactures have on the power supply for hard drives? The data sheet I found shows 4 circuit connectors that handle 18-22 gauge wire and they are shaped so that they can only be plugged together in the correct orientation.

I wouldn't have asked this simple stupid question but I've been surprised several times already by what we should and shouldn't do during the building process.

Thanks.

Gerald D
Sun 21 October 2007, 10:34
The ShopBots used connectors type Wago 231-604 on the motor and 231-104/037-00 on the cable, and what you see in our pics is a legacy from ShopBot. Those connectors are not a good idea - too many chances of things going wrong and coming loose. We now crimp the cables together with a "butt-splice" similar to McMaster-Carr 7227K12.

Generally, motors do not go bad. There is seldom a reason to swop one motor with another. (We have swopped to find faulty connectors - the swop-ability was useful to test the swop-ability devices, duh!)

domino11
Sun 21 October 2007, 19:40
"1) Never solder tin stranded wire that goes into a compression type
connector. The connector relies on stranded wire to conform to the
shape of the connector when compressed to create a reliable, gas-tight
connection.

1a) Solder tinning prevents this and contact is made at only a few
microscopic contact points. This degrades the contact resistance.




Gerald,
Wouldnt the above statement also hold true for the crimped pins that you are using? The hard pins would not compress much I think and cause similar problems? I know in systems that we produce at work, we never use crimp on pins in compression type connectors, just bare copper. We DO twist the stranded coppper before we insert it though. Have you inspected used pins to see if they compress at all in the compression connectors?

Also if you still want to use the crimp pins and need two wires, then you could always crimp the two wires into one larger crimp pin. This practice of crimping 2 or more wires is allowed in military electronics. There is a table for the number and type of wires allowed into specific sized crimp terminals. I could provide you a copy if you are interested.

smreish
Sun 21 October 2007, 20:12
Gerald,
I just ordered a really nice assortment of single and double wire ferrules on Friday. The link is here :http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/
Great pricing on their sample kit which has about 50-100 of each wire gauge size one should need for the control box.
Sean

Doug_Ford
Sun 21 October 2007, 21:17
There is a table for the number and type of wires allowed into specific sized crimp terminals. I could provide you a copy if you are interested.

Heath, I would be interested in that table if you don't mind. Thanks.

Gerald D
Mon 22 October 2007, 00:34
Heath, I was quoting somebody else there - I don't personally believe in the "gas-tight" theory. I just don't see how a crimp can ever be truly gas-tight or why that should be so desirable. The "hard" pins have always worked well for us. (We can get flat or round hard pins, but I generally only use the round ones.) DIN 46231 (http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=IRFA,IRFA:2006-24,IRFA:en&q=DIN+46231&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi)

Sean, I have no experience of the type of ferrule you are talking of. They are quite different in that the crimped part goes under the terminal screw. I think these are called "bootlace" ferrules? They are only an "anti-fray" and colour coding system? DIN 46228, part 4 (http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&rls=IRFA%2CIRFA%3A2006-24%2CIRFA%3Aen&q=DIN+46228%2C+part+4)

The colours means something completely different for the two different systems.

Alan_c
Mon 22 October 2007, 02:03
I have used the bootlace ferrules in most of my control panel and found them to be quite "soft". They crimp nicely onto the wire strands and do deform slightly under the screw to conform to the inside of the terminal block.

The only problem I experienced was when trying to get two wires into the relatively small DIN terminal blocks, the plastic shrouds at the back of the ferrules interfered with each other so I ended up not using them on double connections. OK I was using a fairly large wire guage (1.5mm), another reason I want to use smaller guage wire in the final assembly as the bootlace ferrules for the smaller guage is physically smaller too.

Gerald D
Mon 22 October 2007, 04:20
Alan, the original bootlace ferrule I remember had no plastic shroud at the back - the whole thing crimped smaller than the OD of the wire.

With those rail mounted terminals, it would be unusual for me to use any crimp sleeve at all. Those terminals have an excellent "cage-clamp" action on the wire conductors and the insulation dividers are nice and deep. See second pic from top of this thread.

domino11
Mon 22 October 2007, 07:57
Gerald,
I don't subscribe to the Gas-Tight theory either, but the compression and deformation of the stranded copper is what makes any crimp type connection work. By compressing the copper strands, the surface area being contacted increases greatly. With any type of hard surface, soldered leads or possibly hard pins, this compression doesn't happen and contact surface area is decreased. This doesn't mean that it wont work, but that it might not be optimal.

Gerald D
Mon 22 October 2007, 08:39
The "hard" pins are not getting hot, nor are they working loose with time, nor are they picking up corrosion - so I believe they are good. (Those pins are not really "hard" - they do conform to the mating surface to some extent. Almost like a solid strand of copper)

driller
Mon 22 October 2007, 09:07
If you look at what is happening, one is putting 2-3 amps of 35-70 volts so, 140 watts (theoretical) would be maximum, but since it is PWM, figure 1/3 of that.

That means there is so little power, there would have to be a pretty sloppy connection to generate any heat.

The Gecko at maximum power only generates about 17 watts of heat.



Dave

Gerald D
Mon 22 October 2007, 10:20
Dave, we use that style of terminal for many other things besides Geckos. Lots of industrial machinery, mines, ships, automotive, railways, etc. We know them as a trouble-free, long-term reliable, terminal that can even be installed by unskilled labour.

domino11
Tue 23 October 2007, 12:32
Here is the table we use at work for the number of allowed wires in a certain size crimp terminal. We do a lot of military electronics work. I dont recall where the chart came from initially, probably some mil spec.

driller
Tue 23 October 2007, 16:00
Dave, we use that style of terminal for many other things besides Geckos. Lots of industrial machinery, mines, ships, automotive, railways, etc. We know them as a trouble-free, long-term reliable, terminal that can even be installed by unskilled labour.



My point was that there is not enough power going thru the wires to present a problem using a good quality crimp connector.

I lost one Gecko from a single strand of a motor wire that did find it's way out of the screw-clamp.

I too will be looking a the collars so as to prevent a re-occurance.

Dave

smreish
Tue 23 October 2007, 17:21
Gerald,
The ferrules I mentioned are the same as you linked to. They are available in insulated and non-insulated versions. When tight access, I just shrink tube on the non-insulated ones....etc. These are the ferrules recommended to me from our Local UL inspector. If I plan on doing this in the future on a larger scale, I would like the panel be be UL 508 panel approved for insurance/liability reasons.
Sean

Gerald D
Wed 24 October 2007, 00:02
....there is not enough power going thru the wires to present a problem using a good quality crimp connector.

I lost one Gecko from a single strand of a motor wire that did find it's way out of the screw-clamp.

I too will be looking a the collars so as to prevent a re-occurance.
and
..... I would like the panel be be UL 508 panel approved for insurance/liability reasons.

I think those two quotes summarise nicely what this thread is all about - attention to small details can save money and headaches. Different countries may use different systems, but it all boils down to keeping the copper tidy and tight. It is important to me that the control box should be wired at a place where there is lots of light and no rush - the kitchen table! :)

Gerald D
Wed 24 October 2007, 12:48
Doug, if you are still interested in those ShopBot/Wago connectors, read this post on the ShopBot forum today:
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/show.cgi?tpc=29&post=58550#POST58550

Doug_Ford
Wed 24 October 2007, 18:08
Thanks Gerald but once you told me they weren't a good idea, that was enough for me. I ruled the idea out immediately.

I received my cables today but am having trouble getting the Mechmate logo made. Those are the last major pieces to acquire. Now, it's just the wiring part. Oh yeah and I have to machine the router bracket. Unfortunately, I have to work every day for the next 3 weeks and won't get a chance to make much headway. It's killing me because I want to post some pictures of my progress. I'm proud of it and often catch myself just standing there smiling at it. I love your design.

Gerald D
Thu 25 October 2007, 00:21
. . . and I have to machine the router bracket.
That's another candidate for lasered & bent plate . . . . .

Unfortunately, I have to work every day for the next 3 weeks

Profound :)

Doug_Ford
Thu 25 October 2007, 10:54
Haha. I meant I won't even have a weekend off.

Doug_Ford
Thu 25 October 2007, 22:02
Tonight I wired the PMDX board to the Geckos and had trouble inserting all the strands into the tiny terminal holes. I looked again at the pictures of your control box and noticed that you didn't use those crimp on pin connectors when you wired those same cables. Was there a reason? I'd really like to use them because my cables have 20 AWG wires so it's a tight fit and I'm worried I'll end up with a stray strand.

Richards
Thu 25 October 2007, 22:25
As far as the crimp terminals go, I've been able to find sizes to accommodate all common sizes of wire, from 28-gauge to 8-gauge. With most connectors, I like to have 24-gauge, 22-gauge, 18-gauge, 16-gauge and 12-gauge on hand. If you buy from places like www.ferrulesdirect.com (http://www.ferrulesdirect.com), the price for 500 each averages to about $10 per size. So, for $50, you would have enough ferrules to wire several control boxes.

Gerald D
Thu 25 October 2007, 23:55
On the PMDX, the currents and voltages are very low and the wires can be quite thin. (I don't exactly how thin the wire was that I used there). The board terminals were too small for the range of crimp terminals that I had available so I went without them.

smreish
Fri 26 October 2007, 05:16
My recent arrival from ferrulesdirect.com $28.30 for the assortment including shipping. Sean

Gerald D
Fri 26 October 2007, 06:12
. . . and the crimping tool?

smreish
Fri 26 October 2007, 06:43
...Yes, I already own that! Very important to have the correct crimper. I have a ratcheting device with changeable jaws for round, oval or rectangular malleable crimps. Worth every penny! Good point Gerald.
509

Doug_Ford
Fri 26 October 2007, 10:11
I looked at the ferrules when someone mentioned them earlier but ruled them out because they required a new crimping tool. If I use the crimp on pin terminals, I can use the same ratcheting crimping tool I use for the other connectors. However, if the experts (Gerald, Mike, Sean, and others) recommend the ferrules, that's what I'll go with.

smreish
Fri 26 October 2007, 10:21
Doug.
Each method has similar results - if done well. A well crimped connection to the wire that results in good voltage/current transmission without arcing is the goal. As long as your practice works....then continue your path. I actually use both aforementioned solder-less connectors on a case-by-case basis. In summary, any practice that has good results is worth keeping! Good Luck.
Sean

Kobus_Joubert
Sat 20 August 2011, 09:40
I thought it good to post this experience here as I feel it has to do with wiring.

PLEASE NOTE.....
... PLACE Names and the NAMES of people have been changed to protect their identity...;)

Recently a guy ...let us call him Brad.... had a working MechMate in let's say Randburg...
This machine was in his shop working and producing a lot of dust.

Then one day about 3 weeks ago this Big Blue Beast suddenly lost Y-Direction movement.

Stepper driver was changed, BOB was changed, wiring was checked, but still the stepper would just sit there and BUZZ...or HUM or do something apart from STRONG forwards and backwards movement.

Then this poor guy we are calling BRAD picked up the Swine Flu and so he could not attend further to the problem.

So this morning I went to see if I could help, because a MM without movement is like riding a superbike with kiddies wheels on the side.

Well this thing had me by the short and curleys for most of the morning, but then I found it...........

As we are using steppers with 8 wires, we save the 1 motor for the future and only run using 4 wires. The other 4 wires are NEATLY taped up and out of harms way......ha ha
Not the case.
Somebody that wired the motors to the cable had these 4 unused wires BADLY wrapped up and what happened was that the insulation started to break through and as the stepper driver tried to turn the motor, the turning motor generated voltage and this had an INTERNAL BRAKE effect on the whole thing.

We cut the unused exposed wires short and taped them up individually.

No more internal braking and his Big Blue machine was back in action.

One more for the fault logs to keep in mind.

Gerald D
Sat 20 August 2011, 11:33
Smartly diagnosed Kobus - not something that is easy to find on someone else's machine if you don't know where he took shortcuts. ;)

Neil
Thu 25 August 2011, 06:12
I reckon Brad was really pleased Kobus.
I have just watched a documentry on TV about a man in Cape town who has a pet hippopotamus and his name is Tony Joubert

PEU
Thu 25 August 2011, 08:29
...Yes, I already own that! Very important to have the correct crimper. I have a ratcheting device with changeable jaws for round, oval or rectangular malleable crimps. Worth every penny! Good point Gerald.
509

Nice tool, brand? model? price? age? political party? religion? :) :)

I have a crappy crimper, breaks 1 out of 5 times the ferrule, never saw one like that one, it looks like a RJ45 crimper but for ferrules, nice!


Pablo

smreish
Thu 25 August 2011, 08:53
Pablo, Bien Dia Senor~

It's good the hear from you. Are you coming back to the States soon? Hopefully I will have my new machine up and running by then and we can have another MM meetup!

The Ferrule and such was purchased from

http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/

Great stuff, reasonable price - quick delivery.

Kobus_Joubert
Thu 25 August 2011, 09:27
Hi Neil ... luckily my name is Kobus Joubert....I might growing to be as big as a Hippo but will try and stay a little normal.:D

And remember the name BRAD was only used to protect the innocent....ha

Gerald D
Thu 25 August 2011, 10:28
Pablo, see old thread: Tools needed to build and operate the MechMate - gift ideas (from them to YOU!) (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=916&highlight=caliper#post916) but get the right type of jaws.

domino11
Thu 25 August 2011, 10:29
Hopefully I will have my new machine up and running by then

Sean,
So do we get to see it? :):eek::cool::rolleyes:

smreish
Thu 25 August 2011, 19:03
It's a pile of parts in a big drawer right now Heath. A 540, power supply, extra pmdx, it will be a 4 axis machine with a better BBQ. (you have to read WAy back in the forums if you don't get this joke reference.)

domino11
Thu 25 August 2011, 20:50
Oh no, I remember the BBQ, a whole OX right?

PEU
Wed 31 August 2011, 16:42
Pablo, Bien Dia Senor~

It's good the hear from you. Are you coming back to the States soon? Hopefully I will have my new machine up and running by then and we can have another MM meetup!

The Ferrule and such was purchased from

http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/

Great stuff, reasonable price - quick delivery.

Buen Dia Seor (alt164/165 at the numeric keypad gives you the /)

Today I found at a local store what I think is the exact same model as your photo, a clearly Chinese unit with a generic model HY-301E for $25
Tomorrow I have 2 small CNC lathe control boxes to assemble that will be built in less time :) :) Thanks!!

My cousin is in Orlando right now until october, I don't know when I'm going back there, but be sure that I'll ring you and Nils for a meeting.

Cheers!

Gerald D
Thu 01 September 2011, 00:31
Pablo, I changed the Windows settings for my keyboard to type , , , , etc. see:
http://www.studyspanish.com/accents/typing.htm and http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306560 . The key thing is to convert your keyboard setting to English (US-INTERNATIONAL). I don't ever use Alt codes.

PEU
Thu 01 September 2011, 16:54
yesyes, I have the same config since ages, but for an english speaker only it makes sense the regular US layout methinks :)

BTW, the keyboard Im using is 26 years old, an IBM type M from my first PC-XT circa 1985, been using it since then everyday.

griff
Tue 25 October 2011, 19:01
Gerald Were can I buy the connector you used on your stepper motors, I need them for the kl34-180-90 servo motor from keling. Thanks Andrew Griffin

MetalHead
Tue 25 October 2011, 20:31
http://www.pmdx.com/ConnectorsMisc

PMDX has these.

Gerald D
Wed 26 October 2011, 00:28
Griff, we used Wago connectors in the ShopBot days, but the recent MM's have been without connectors. Crimped, hard-wired . . . . much more reliable.

The motors don't go faulty...we learnt that there is no need to "un-plug" them. In fact, when we did have something looking like a motor problem, it was a connector problem. Getting rid of connectors was the logical next step.

smreish
Wed 26 October 2011, 19:24
Griff,
Many MM users have been using the 4 pin XLR (http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Connectors/XLR-Connectors/Neutrik-USA-Inc/NC4FXX-B.xhtml?NC4FXX-B) for the stepper motor wiring.