MechMate DIY Control box full spec screened spindle 3phase [Archive]

Gerald_D

Sat 03 June 2006, 12:55

This was the project for today.....

Basically the power supply, parallel connector board and 4 geckos......
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/851.jpg
(A stepper motor is included in the pic to get a sense of scale)
.....needed a home.

So we get a metal box....
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/852.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/853.jpg

Also, we need a thermistor relay and 9V transformer for the parallel board....
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/854.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/855.jpg
....and a main switch, a couple of terminals and a circulating fan.

The white plate in the back of the box is taken out for the assembly. The idea is to lift the geckos about 60mm off the back plane and mount them on an alu plate which acts as a heat sink and ground/earth plane.....
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/856.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/857.jpg
......The rail in front is a standard 35mm DIN rail. (Also lifted off the back-plane in case wires/cables need to pass under it.

The fan sucks air from behind the white back plane (which is spaced 15 mm off the back of the box) and blows against the bottom of the alu plate....
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/858.jpg http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/859.jpg

More wiring and tidying up to do, and then it can all be dropped back into the "orange" box.

Gerald_D

Sun 11 June 2006, 10:16

Some more progress this weekend - wiring is about 95% done.......

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/890.jpg
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/891.jpg
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/892.jpg
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/893.jpg
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/894.jpg

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/895.jpg

The last pic is a view looking into the terminals that will receive the cables leading out of the control box.

1. The main power cable, with 3x Line and 1x Neutral conductors feed into the isolator switch with the blue knob on top. The 1x Ground conductor of the infeed cable goes to a point bottom right, on the mounting screw of the white back plate.

2. The outfeed to the VFD for the spindle, 3x Line comes from the contactor to the right of the isolator.

3. The empty terminals further right are for the shielded cables to the E-stops, Z-zero, etc. All Inputs. The shields also have terminals dedicated to them.

4. Nearly everything to the left of the blue-topped isolator is for the spindle. The first five terminals are for the thermistor and cooling fan. (Plus a shield terminal)

5. Then the tall thermistor relay.

6. Next few terminals are the outputs from the PMDX board - some are not allocated yet.

7. The last terminals to the left are for the communications with the VFD. Start/stop of the spindle, Fault at the VFD, Analog speed control via potentiometer.

8. Lastly, each stepper motor (shielded) cable goes directly into its Gecko via the blue terminals at the top of the pic. The shield of the cable screws to the alu plate.

It has since been learnt that the green/yellow ground wire from the PMDX-122 to the top center of the alu ground plate (heatsink) is a mistake - that wire should not be there.

Gerald_D

Sun 11 June 2006, 23:00

A wiring project like this is a good "kitchen table" project (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279). This is all being done at home, and it is actually fairly relaxing.

(Do you still want a simplified schematic of motors/geckos etc.?)

Gerald_D

Sat 17 June 2006, 08:03

That orange box got a few holes it, and was sprayed "MechMate Blue" (actually it is standard aerosol "Electric Blue from the local hardware shop)

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/912.jpg

Then some more wiring......

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/913.jpg
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/914.jpg

Until the outside looks nearly finished...

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/915.jpg

Mike Richards

Sat 17 June 2006, 10:16

Gerald,
You've done a beautiful job. I wish that my designs looked so good.

If I may make one suggestion, though. You might want to place all switches on a side panel. Even though a door in a control box is rarely opened, meaning that the cables will never be flexed enough to 'crack', there is always the possibility that a cable might get wedged. Of course the ON/OFF switch has to extend through the door so that the door can't be opened while the unit is powered up, but that is usually just the 'handle' of the switch, with the contact portion firmly mounted on the interior of the box (as you have done).

Gerald_D

Sat 17 June 2006, 10:56

I considered side switches/lights but discarded that for three reasons:

- the box will be wall mounted and the right side is far away from the operator, in a corner. The left side will be obstructed by the VFD.

- the indicator lights need to to be visible over a wide angle, from the front

- the white back panel cannot be dropped in if switches are on the sides.

By the way, to explain the outside features:

- the white rectangles are plug outlets for powering the PC and another appliances if necessary.

- The yellow/red isolator is obvious. Switching that on gives power to everything except the VFD/Spindle and the linear power supply and Geckos. The actual power switched is very low (PMDX, fan, thermistor relay).

- The green pilot comes on when isolator is on.

- the rectangular red/green/pilot controls the contactor that powers the VFD and linear power supply. (The E-Stops, thermistor relay, VFD malfunction, drop this contactor out). Pilot is lit when "drives" are powered.

- silver/grey knob for spindle speed control.

- black button next to it is a detent push-push for starting the spindle for warm-up without starting the PC.

- the empty top section of the front is for the logo decal! :-)

Gerald_D

Sun 02 July 2006, 13:08

Here is the mounted control box, with the Delta VFD alongside. The "base" of the VFD houses the output line reactor.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/939.jpg

krymis

Fri 04 August 2006, 08:13

what size box and where did you get it?

Gerald_D

Tue 22 August 2006, 01:48

The box is 550Hx400Wx220D (millimeters) external. Dust proof (door seal), with removable back-plate. Got a no-name brand here in South Africa (part no. HE203 from www.em.co.za), about $150

The COOLING fan system works like a champ! Have been logging internal and external temps over the last 2 months and the max differential was 12 degrees Centigrade. Because the fan does not draw in outside air, there are no dust issues. The box dissipates heat through its surface skin - the larger the box, the better the cooling.

Mike John

Tue 22 August 2006, 04:33

Gerald,
Although I realise price comparisons between countries (even continents), are not necessarily indicative, I would still be interested in the complete cost (including cabinet) of your control box.

..........Mike

Gerald_D

Tue 22 August 2006, 05:33

Without the shipping costs to get the Gecko's and PMDX here, it cost $970 in materials & components alone. (no labour)

Deon Gerber

Mon 23 October 2006, 12:30

Hi Gerald

I am a newby when you talk about electronics.Can you give me more info on the output line reactor that is in the base of the vfd mount. What is its purpose.

Nice forum you built up....

Thanks
Deon

Gerald_D

Mon 23 October 2006, 12:49

Hallo Deon daar in PE!

The output line reactor (some people call it a choke) is highly recommended by both the VFD and spindle manufacturers. I didn't want to argue with them. http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif Here (http://www.galco.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/WA/WCat/webpromo.htm?promo=200MTERL) is the one that I am using. The stuff on that page explains some of the benefits:

Protect motors from long lead effects
Reduce output voltage dv/dt
Virtually eliminate nuisance tripping
Extend semiconductor life
Reduce harmonic distortion
Reduce surge currents
Reduce motor temperature
Reduce motor audible noise
Improve true power factor
etc.

Anyway, I had heard that VFD's make radios go funny, but so far we havn't had a single issue caused by the VFD in the shop. Maybe it is because we used a "reactor"?

Another reference (http://www.galco.com/techdoc/mte/rl/RL_FEA.pdf)

Gerald_D

Wed 08 November 2006, 22:56

Spoke too soon - have just discovered that the VFD is inducing a fake charge pump signal to the MechMate's own controller if the PC is not supplying the real charge pump signal. see this thread (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363). This doesn't make a reactor a bad choice though, I still think it is the very first accessory to consider for a VFD/spindle setup.

Gerald_D

Mon 05 February 2007, 12:27

People are asking what the following components do.....?

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/3329.jpg

From the left:

1: Thermistor relay. Only used to protect a spindle against overheating....if the spindle has an internal thermistor. If you are using a router, you don't need it. If your spindle does not have a thermistor, you don't need it. (Picture (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/855.jpg))(Siemens 3RN (http://www.automation.siemens.com/cd/is_ueberwachen/html_76/thermistor.htm))

2. Main switch: Operated by the red/yellow knob on the outside of the door. You can only open the door if the switch is OFF. It has 4 poles to break the 3 phases Live and the Neutral lines. You can put your safety switches somewhere else if you want. This is the "export" quality way of doing it. (Ensto - Finland. brochure (http://www.ensto.com/www/library/attachments/pdf/5aenj7hTk/Ensto.Downloads.SubCategoryFile/Files/CurrentFile/Load_Break_Switches_Compact.pdf))

3. Main Relay/Contactor: Needed for the emergency stop circuit so that it can switch OFF all the high voltage when an Emergency Stop button is pushed. Again, this is "export" quality safety - you can decide on your own safety standard. (local source (http://www.controlgear.co.za/news/contactor_relays_dil_a.htm))

4. 9 Volt transformer: to supply the PMDX-122 with power. You can also supply 5V from your PC's USB port, but my PC is old and does not have USB ports. (Picture (http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/854.jpg)) I mounted the transformer on the green base.

Hugo Carradini

Mon 05 February 2007, 17:28

I was wondering but was timid to ask .
It looks like a nice configuration.

Gerald_D

Mon 05 February 2007, 18:08

Hi Hugo

I am sorry for my bad reputation which makes you timid http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

Maybe I must explain why some people get "unpleasant" answers from me at times..... There seem to be two types of people who want to build MechMates - a. Those that like the looks and are too lazy to think and b. Those that want to understand why and what they need to do. I believe that group a. is dangerous and end with the risk of electrocuting themselves - I do not plan to help these guys make accidents. It is easy to identify this group - the first thing they want is a shopping list to start buying stuff! Hugo, you are clearly in the second group - you are trying to find out the purpose of each item before you decide to buy it.

Just think of the implication if I put that Ensto switch on a shopping list..... They are a company from Finland who happen to have a stockist in South Africa. In your country there could be another more economical supplier - remember, it is only a switch. Also, if you are going to use a router, you could use single phase only, so the switch, (and the contactor) can be much smaller.

The title of this thread has always carried the words screened, spindle, 3-phase, "export". People need to realise that their own application could be different and build their control boxes accordingly.

Hugo Carradini

Sat 17 February 2007, 14:01

Thanks Gerald.

You can count with a MechMate "beast" done the right way in my country

¿How do you install the 9 volt transformer? It has five legs. ¿How you configured them?

¿Size or capacity of the Main Relay/Contactor? To many questions, but I am making my list for buying all ,and this is my weak area. Thanks

Gerald_D

Sat 17 February 2007, 22:10

Those five legs on that transformer confused me as well - I had to phone the supplier to find the diagram. Your transformer will be different and it is important only to buy stuff for which you can get information. This mostly means that you cannot buy from the cheapest supplier.

For the "main contactor" capacity you need to decide a lot of things. Spindle or router (and size), how your "safety" standards and plan will work, voltage in your country, etc.

Mike Richards

Sun 18 February 2007, 06:01

Usually five legs on a transformer means that you have two legs for the primary (input) voltage and three legs for the secondary (output) voltage. The output voltage would have a center tap so that a 9V transformer would produce 4.5V (times 2) or 9V,

Loren Gameros

Sun 18 February 2007, 14:22

Hi Gerald,

Do you have a wiring diagram that would show all connections lets say for example the power supply? Thank You.

Gerald_D

Sun 18 February 2007, 22:37

I am very nervous about requests for power supply wiring diagrams. I believe that people who understand the risks of working with mains voltages will not need such diagrams.

Loren Gameros

Mon 19 February 2007, 01:08

Ok,understandable. Maybe I'll re-word that question. What I am looking for is something like this.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/3442.gif

Gerald_D

Mon 19 February 2007, 01:58

You can use that same diagram for a MechMate.

On the right side, the PARALLEL PORT PINS are all on the PMDX-122 card.

On the left side, the AC PLUG and SPINDLE PLUG is confusing for me. Not sure which is a PLUG or socket, which is the power cord that goes to the wall socket/outlet..... I think that:
- AC PLUG is the incoming power cord
- SPINDLE PLUG is a socket for plugging a single phase router into. (We normally use the term SPINDLE for another type of cutting motor)
- RELAY is standard. We often call it a CONTACTOR, and we often try to break both Live(Hot) and Neutral with 2 poles on that contactor. But if your government/personal laws/standards allow a single pole relay then that is okay.
- S1 & S2 are E-stops contacts or just plain Stop/Start contacts. Not clear how these switches are used.

This circuit will not stop/start the router on command from Mach3. Something more is needed.

We do not use the bleed resistor R1 at bottom left because the 4 Geckos drain the capacitor (C1) quickly enough when the power is cut.

Gerald_D

Mon 19 February 2007, 02:07

This is the only diagram that I have:

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/832/3444.gif

If you look closely, you will see that it does not give the power supply schematic in top left corner. Also, it does not give all the Gecko connections.

I can give a copy of this schematic to people who have purchased exactly the same components (including spindle and VFD).

Subsequent to this exchange, I have ventured into general purpose power/wiring diagrams here (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316)

Edmond Duncan Kevin Enslin

Sun 25 February 2007, 22:37

Hi Gerald

Is there a local source of all the components for the control box, also I only want to run single phase at the moment.What is the total cost of building the controller box.

Thanks Edmond

Gerald_D

Sun 25 February 2007, 23:03

Only stuff not off-the-shelf in Cape Town are the Gecko's, PMDX card, and transformer. Gecko's and transformer ex-JHB. The JHB gecko stockist has an equivalent to the PMDX (www.cncdirect.co.za (http://www.cncdirect.co.za))(Gecko202 @ $200). Transformer can be ordered via Communica. Most other parts from ElectroMechanica, Bellco and Communica. Total cost depends on where the components come from, whether you import direct and the discounts you can get - my material cost about R6000? (But that could be nearer R9000 with inefficient shopping) ($833 to $1250). Also add sweat & time.....

Alan_c

Sat 02 June 2007, 14:34

Gerald

In the old forum on 5 June 2006 you mentioned that you had not made a final commitment to the PMDX 122, after being in use for a year now has it proved itself or would you consider using an alternative?

Has anybody else used a different breakout board and have any comments positive or negative as to their respective choices. I know they are pretty simple devices but there must be differences considering the number of options available (and price range...?)

Gerald D

Sun 03 June 2007, 00:28

Hi Alan

Yes, the PMDX-122 has certainly proved itself. I did have a noise problem, and the support from Steve Stallings (the designer/producer) was fantastic. Even though the noise was coming from my spindle drive, he came up with a simple mod (add a resistor) that cured it. Based mostly on the support experience, I would use it again. Until . . . . . .

. . . . . . USB driven "breakouts" are proven. The ncPod is being watched with great interest.

Gerald D

Fri 15 June 2007, 00:21

Here (http://www.artsoftcontrols.com/forum/index.php?topic=3418.0) is a report on a "CNC Workshop" held in the US recently.

Those guys wiring their control panels . . . . where did they get the idea to put their Geckos up on a plate across the middle of a removable panel from a control box? Wonder if they have fans under those Geckos? :)

bphilpott

Sun 24 June 2007, 10:50

Can you post this diagram in a version that I can use zoom to see details?

Gerald D

Sun 24 June 2007, 11:40

Treat with the greatest suspicion.....

Greg J

Mon 25 June 2007, 18:46

Here (http://www.artsoftcontrols.com/forum/index.php?topic=3418.0) is a report on a "CNC Workshop" held in the US recently.

Where can I find out about this CNC work shop? I'm going next year!!

Greg

Gerald D

Mon 25 June 2007, 21:13

It is held at Cardinal Engineering, Galesburg, Illinois, but I don't know how the folk get invited. Here is an out-of-date web page: http://www.cnc-workshop.com/

Greg J

Mon 25 June 2007, 21:28

Thanks again!!

Do you ever envision a workshop for the MechMate crew? :cool: I'd come to SA.

Don't you ever sleep?

Marc Shlaes

Tue 26 June 2007, 10:23

I'd second that trip to SA.

Gerald D

Tue 26 June 2007, 11:32

The date on my previous post is 5:13am. I sleep from about 9:30pm to 5:00am, local time of course. If you catch me on-line between these hours, I am talking in my sleep :)

You guys would be very welcome out here. Surely the CNC side makes it tax-deductible? :)

Doug_Ford

Tue 02 October 2007, 18:53

Gerald,
I'm close to starting the wiring portion of this project and have been intensely studying the schematics and the photos of your control box. Two questions have come up.

1) Why did you run the cables from the stepper motors directly to your Gecko drives rather than routing them through the terminal blocks? Was it due to a shortage of space for additional blocks or was there another reason? I'm not being critical - just trying to learn. If I have enough room for the extra terminal blocks, can you think of a reason why I shouldn't route the cables through them?

2) Is there a trick to locating the hole for the yellow isolator handle on the front door of the box exactly where it should be so it lines up with the din rail mounted switch? I've worked hard to make my machine look as good as possible and I don't want to screw up something as visible as the front of the box.

Thanks again for all you've done for us.

driller

Tue 02 October 2007, 19:47

Wiring the steppers into the cabinet is easy enough.

but there is no real added benefit to adding additional screw terminals. There is the added potential of one straw strand of wire shorting or becoming loose or weak.

I too wire Geckos directly to the motor.

Dave

Gerald D

Tue 02 October 2007, 20:23

Doug, before the days of Gecko Vampires, the drives were extremely sensitive to a loose connection with the motor. An accidental break in a motor wire causes smoke - the expensive kind. So the logic is to have as few joints in those cables as possible. (The Vampire is supposed to cure that potential problem, but I don't use Vampires)

Another reason was to get a continuous shield/screen of the cable right up to the drive.

Positioning that handle . . . . . . .
For left/right you can move the switch along the rail afterwards. This is the tricky direction because of the hinge rotation of the door, but the adjustment on the rail makes it easy.
For vertical position I just stood the box on a flat surface and measured the height to the dangling shaft - was easy enough to transfer this height to the door front.

Alan_c

Wed 03 October 2007, 13:18

I sleep from about 9:30pm to 5:00am, local time of course. If you catch me on-line between these hours, I am talking in my sleep :)

I see from your last post you are talking in your sleep again???:rolleyes:

Richards

Wed 03 October 2007, 15:12

I've been wondering if it wouldn't be better to use different connectors on the Gecko G20x stepper drivers. As configured from the factory, the headers are four sets of three; however, using a 2-4-4-2 configuration would match the functions better. For instance, positions 1-2 are for power in, positions 3-6 are outputs to the motor's coils, positions 7-10 are inputs (step/direction/common/disable), and positions 11-12 are for the current limiting resistor.

If the headers were of the 2-4-4-2 type, then all of the motor's connections would be on one 4-terminal connector, which would allow easy connection without excessive wiring/rewiring.

I normally use an eight-position + chassis ground terminal block for my 6-wire motors. Positions 1-6 are for the six conductors to the motor. Positions 7-8 are for the current limiting resistor and chassis ground is for the shield/drain surrounding the conductors going to the motor's coils. By doing that, I can standardize all 6-wire wiring regardless of which motor I'm using.

driller

Wed 03 October 2007, 15:35

you are correct. Earlier versions had one connector. but, alas, soemtimes it is cheaper to get all of one type, even if that type does not match the needs exactly.

My 201a Gecko's have a single fixed block, does not come out. but these are from the very first run. Revision A drivers.

Dave

Doug_Ford

Wed 03 October 2007, 18:04

Thanks Gerald/Driller/Mike. I knew there was a good reason. Engineers never do anything on a whim. I'll wire mine directly to the Geckos and I'll use the terminal block tip from Mike.

Gerald D

Thu 04 October 2007, 00:32

If you do change the terminal blocks, make sure you get a good quality. Gecko did have a bad experience with a supplier just over a year ago and were obliged to find a better quality. "Bad quality" connectors loose their grip on the header pins if disconnected too often. In general, this style of connector is not designed for daily/regular use. The "poor quality" that Gecko had before would survive maybe 5 to 20 disconnections only - I guess the better quality one will go into the hundreds . . . . . ?

Doug_Ford

Thu 25 October 2007, 21:02

I've ruled out using the 2-4-4-2 connectors on my Geckos. I really like the idea but every time I pulled the current connectors off and then replaced them, I was scared me to death that I'd break one. If I had your electonics experience, I probably wouldn't be so worried but I'm a newby at this stuff.

Richards

Thu 25 October 2007, 21:25

Doug,
The 2-4-4-2 connectors were just an idea. So far, I haven't been able to find any. It seems that the only choice is 2-circuit and 3-circuit connectors.

I think that I may have given the wrong idea on why I would use them (if I could find them). I like to mount heavy stuff like the transformer, caps, stepper drivers, etc. and then wire everything together. Sometimes, there just isn't enough room to easily wire things together after installing major components; so, that's why I like removable connectors. Once they're properly wired and installed, they would stay installed for the life of the component. I don't think that even the new black headers are designed to be installed/removed more than just a very few times without loosing their integrity.

Gerald D

Thu 25 October 2007, 22:55

Gecko's 6-6 terminal blocks are actually 3-3-3-3. There are tiny dovetails between the blocks. Gecko uses a knife or chisel to cut off the center dovetails and make 6-6. You can use 2's (or 3's) and dovetail them together as you wish - just cut off the dovetails where you want seperation.

502

Doug_Ford

Mon 26 November 2007, 19:29

Gerald/Mike/Anyone,

I want to mark my wires and terminals so tonight I bought a set of stickers designed for such a purpose at Home Depot. I plan to stick them on and then cover each one with clear heat shrink. My question is this: is there some type of numbering or lettering convention I should follow? Do I letter the terminals and number the wires and then use a reference sheet to record it all? Do I give the wire the same number or letter as the terminal it connects to? I don't want someone looking inside my box and instantly knowing that I'm a moron. :D

Gerald D

Mon 26 November 2007, 20:02

Doug, I havn't come across the "wrong" way to mark wires. Somebody else's numbers are mostly considered to be understood only by them. I would say design your own system.

Richards

Mon 26 November 2007, 22:43

Doug, I agree with Gerald. As long as you make an accurate chart, any marking scheme that you decide to use will be valuable. If possible, look at the documentation that Kodak or IBM provides to their customers. In a typical binder you'll find a theory of operation, flow charts, complete schematics for each device in the machine, wiring tables, and a trouble-shooting guide. The more documentation that you can provide now, the easier it will be to diagnose a problem sometime in the future.

sailfl

Tue 27 November 2007, 03:18

Terminal Blocks - for a guy not use to using these things and now having some understanding of what they do, can you (Gerald or Mike) suggest a model and source for these things that will give me long term use.

Gerald D

Tue 27 November 2007, 07:25

Nils, I think the rest of the guys have more recently bought them. I have never seen poor quality ones, but then again I sit on another continent. :)

Richards

Tue 27 November 2007, 07:57

Over the years, I've used whatever brands that I could buy locally. They have all been good quality. The only drawback of mixing brands is that each brand seems to have a snap-together feature that doesn't match the snap-together feature of another brand.

I just checked the offerings at www.automationdirect.com. They have the DN-T12 terminal block (Euro 2.5) for wire up to 12 gauge and the DN-T10 terminal block (Euro 4) for wire up to 10 guage. (I use the Euro 4 size because my favorite terminal block screwdriver fits the screw heads better.) In addition to the terminal block, you'll need to order some endbrackets similar to the DN-EB35, some endcaps similar to the DN-EC1210 and some rail similar to DN-R35S1. Also, think about buying some jumper bars and some pre-printed labels or tags. The jumper bars allow you to more easily connect a series of terminal blocks together. The labels or tags makes it easier to document each terminal block.

You may be able to find terminal blocks locally. Even though the blocks that I buy locally cost about two times more than the blocks from FactoryMation or AutomationDirect, I can buy just the quantities that I need instead of being forced to buy full boxes.

Bill McGuire

Thu 13 December 2007, 10:20

Gerald...
I have been looking at your photos above and on post #2, you mentioned that:

3. The empty terminals further right are for the shielded cables to the E-stops, Z-zero, etc. All Inputs. The shields also have terminals dedicated to them.

I cannot see where any of the shields (braided?) are connected in your pictures... or just how they are connected. Is there a specific "braid" connector made for these situations or is it similar to an AV cable in which the braids are picked up and grounded on a terminal itself? My thought... slice the braid back from the cable, twist it and crimp a connector to it... seemed amateurish (which, incidentally, I am attempting to work my way UP to)...:D

Thanks... as always... for your help
Bill McGuire

Gerald D

Thu 13 December 2007, 10:53

This is the only pic I can find now:

657

Yes, I do crimp a lug onto the braid. In the pic above the wire is thin and the lug is massive in comparison.

I don't unravel the braid to get the wires out - I actually pull the wires through the side of the braid "tube" leaving the braid pattern intact. This is easier than it sounds..... Bend the stripped end of the cable over like a hairpin, then pick the wires out of the top of the kink. Must find another photo . . . . .

Bill McGuire

Thu 13 December 2007, 17:12

Thanks Gerald...
You explained it very well. I just wish I'd taken up miniature jewelry work back when my fingers were still coordinated with my brain... it'd probably make my life easier when I get to this phase...:D

javeria

Sat 11 October 2008, 10:19

G' what the AMPS on the contactor? I was planning for 32Amps which will include the power to VFD, is it wrong to feed the VFD from the contactor?

RGDS
Irfan

javeria

Sat 11 October 2008, 10:52

G' my mistake again :( I looked over the drawings and its clear now that the VFD can be connected thru the contactor.

Gerald D

Sat 11 October 2008, 11:12

Irfan, the issue here is: How can we stop the spindle with the E-stop?

That is the reason the VFD is powered from the main (E-stopped) contactor.

javeria

Sat 11 October 2008, 12:07

G I was assuming that since I will be using a spindle control card, the E stop would pulse from mach and stop the spindle.

Thus I can use a lower amp'd contactor and save some cash,

however i will go the regular way and power the vfd from the contactor - just to be double sure.

RGDS
Irfan

Gerald D

Sat 11 October 2008, 12:12

Also then, a false pulse (error pulse) from Mach could also start the spindle by mistake . . . . .

You cannot trust Mach to have the final decision on whether the spindle runs or not. The spindle is probably the most dangerous part of your machine.

javeria

Sat 11 October 2008, 12:25

Yes Sir, I am surely going your way :)

tomasptacek

Sat 07 August 2010, 08:32

Hi all, is it big problem to mout G203V on the same metal plate as the rest of components in control box (see picture) ? As i can see almost all of you mount them on separate alu plate. Thaks Tomas

smreish

Sat 07 August 2010, 08:50

Tom,
The reason for mounting separate is not a physical space issue, but a thermal issue. The separate plate allows for the drives to heatsink and cool. The additional plate allows for better area contact from surrounding air, thus cooling the devices.

The Gecko's run fairly cool, so you may be okay.

I reread g203v manual and it doesn't have specific heatsink requirements, but cooler is better.

Sean

BTW, nice transformer....did you make that yourself?