My table sucks ... and it awesome !! #66 - Arizona USA

[timberlinemd]

I started my build with the electronics. The only modifications I made to the plans are to provide for a low voltage (24v AC) circuit for the E-Stops. I’m using the Gecko G-540 all-in-one BOB and motor drivers. I resurrected an old Windows 2000 computer I had in storage and formatted the drive to insure a clean machine. I downloaded Mach3’s free demo version and played around with it. My CADD program will be VisualCadd and the VisualCadd forum has I member that created a CAM program that I will be using for my machine.

When I started gathering parts for the electronics I needed an enclosure to put it all in. I felt that $100+ US was pretty steep for a box so I started looking in second hand stores. I found a gutted electrical service box for $5.00 US and while I was at this store I bought a medical cart donated to them by the local hospital for $30.00 US!! This thing must have cost thousands when it was new. I will be able to put my computer on the cart, which is mobile, and a 25’ printer cable running to the power panel, which will be attached to the machines base. The panel measures only 14”W x 18”H x 4”D. I have a 3 phase rotary converter in my shop, which will handle up to a 7-1/2 HP motor. I designed the power panel to be 3 phase in the future will I covert the machine to a spindle. Right now I will be using a very old (first generation) 3 HP Makita router. Same one as Gerald’s, but an older model. In the US it is customary to have a separate power disconnect to higher voltage machinery. I decided that I would stay with this typed of set-up, so the power panel doesn’t have an ‘off’ switch. Before voltage goes to the power panel there will be a separate disconnect box that will have a ‘pull-out’ to break the circuit going to the power panel.

[timberlinemd]

I tried to complete my ‘kitchen table’ test, but I couldn’t get the Gecko G-540 to give me a green light with the ‘charge pump’ set to the ON position. Everything I did was according to all the information available on the forum as well as the rest of the Internet. To those that may have the same set-up that I do you will be appreciative of the fix I discovered for this problem.
My computer has a 7ZM motherboard by Gigabyte with an AMI BIOS. The BIOS allows for the necessary printer port setting of EPP to allow the G-540 to work. But the BIOS doesn’t actually do anything by switching to the EPP state. They didn’t connect a program to the EPP software switch!! There is nothing in the BIOS to change the printer port to an EPP state!! The only fix is to ‘Flash the BIOS’ with the most current software. This task can be DANGEROUS so proceed with caution! I’m sure there are other motherboards with the same BIOS so be on the lookout.

After I got my G-540 to ‘go green’ with the BIOS fix, I was able to get my motors turning. However, Murphy’s Law kicked in and I couldn’t get the second X-axis (a-axis on the G-540) to reverse direction. I looked into everything, but after eliminating all the easy stuff, I disassembled the G-540 and switched two of the internal drives. This showed that one of the drives of the G-540 was faulty. I contacted Gecko drive and I was very pleased by their service policy. I bought this unit from one the members here on the forum, used, and I relayed this info to Gecko. The told me it didn’t matter. If the drive was faulty they would fix/replace at no cost to me (except I paid to have it shipped to them). The turn-around time was less than a week. Now all the motors are turning correctly.

[timberlinemd]

I bought a used Lincoln AC welder at an estate sale for $125.00 US. I have never welded anything in my life! Time to teach this old dog some new tricks. After about a week of practicing with the welder I decided to assemble the Y-car. Like I said I’m no welder, but at least it’s done and the car is square, plum, parallel and level.

[timberlinemd]

I tried out the ‘skate’ today. More time spent in the set-up than the grinding. JR’s skate dose an amazing job for rail grinding.

[timberlinemd]

My spider is missing the bent tab for the limit stops. I'm thinking that I will weld a small tab to the spider. Does anyone know what the dimensions of this tab should be?

[swatkins]

I can measure for you tommorow....

[Hillbillie]

I bought a used Lincoln AC welder at an estate sale for $125.00 US. I have never welded anything in my life! Time to teach this old dog some new tricks. After about a week of practicing with the welder I decided to assemble the Y-car. Like I said I’m no welder, but at least it’s done and the car is square, plum, parallel and level.

Well it looks like this "old dog" is doing a good job. Keep pictures coming.

[swatkins]

There is a close up of the tab in the third picture of this post... http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=38289&postcount=63

The tab on my spider is .600" wide and protrudes out from the surface of the plate .310" ... I had to file down my tab because it was slightly touching the back of the stiffener tube. I would think that the .310" dimension is not too critical as you can file it down if too long or place a few washers under the head of the limit bolts if it is too short...

[domino11]

Nice progress Steve!

[timberlinemd]

Steve- Thanks for the info. I will cut up some stock and weld a tab to the spider.

[timberlinemd]

Today I began to cut the rails down. I haven’t done allot of metal work. Been in the wood end along time. I discovered that using an abrasive disk to cut metal, one should try to keep the metal from getting too hot or the disk will not cut any longer. When I first set up to cross cut the angle, I set one leg of the angle up and against the back fence of the saw. This allowed me to cut the leg standing vertically very quickly but when the disk met the bottom leg lying horizontally and flat to the saw table, the disk cut very slowly and the metal got very hot. By turning the angle upside down so that the ‘V’ was inverted, I was able to cut the metal faster without it getting over heated.

I built a ‘sled’ for the skate and used the main beam for a flat surface. Taking light cuts all the way across the rail kept the metal from getting too hot and kept the sparks flying. I ordered the 2-1/2” x 2-1/2” angle iron. Gerald has remarked that the rail height has to be a maximum of 2” in order to allow the skate to get close enough to cut all the way through the angle. I found that if I used a new 4-1/2” disk towards the end of the cut, I could get almost thru. Then I bent the top of the angle a little with an 18” pipe wrench. This gave me room to cut some more. I could get all the way through the steel without having to cut the metal twice!

UPS came and delivered the cable chain.

Tomorrow I will be grinding the rails.

[timberlinemd]

I got the rails ground, but burnt up my old 10” miter saw cutting the rails to their final size. Used a friends 14” cut-off saw to finish the job. Harbor Freight will be having a sale on their 14” cut-off saw on the 13th, so I will have to wait a few more days to grab one. I cut down the gantry tubes while I was using my friend’s saw. I found that the saw would not cut the tubes very close to the 1mm square tolerance that is called for in the plans. I cut them slightly longer and clamped them together and finished the job by using my edge sander. I also was able to assemble the Z-Slide into the Y-car and adjust the rollers. Very nice! Tomorrow I will be drilling the tubes, rails and clamp strip.

[swatkins]

Looks like it is coming along nicely :)

[timberlinemd]

Well, I got the rails, gantry tubes and clamp strips drilled and tapped. I laid out the gantry and welded it together. My friend who lent me his cut off saw while I waited for the Harbor Freight sale also let me use his auto-darkening helmet to weld up the gantry. He told me that once I use one I wouldn’t be able to go back to a regular welding helmet. He was right! What a difference!
I did some pre-assembly to see how the Y-car would track on the rails. Works very nicely:)
I picked up a new 14” metal cut off saw at Harbor Freight that was on sale. They also had an auto-darkening welders helmet on sale, got that too. Cut up some parts for the table and made a router mount out of some of the left over cross member channel. I mounted the router in the car and added the Z-motor. I did a little motor tuning in Mach3 and wired the Z-axis and watched the Z jog up and down. It works!!:D
Cut some more parts for the table, including the main beam. I’m starting to run out of the small assembly stuff to do and will have to start the main table. That’s when the hardest part of my build will have to be done… cleaning out an area in the shop to put the beast:eek:

[timberlinemd]

Ok, it's been awhile, but I have been able to get rid of some stuff to make room for the main table. When my day job doesn't get in the way I have been able to work on the table and here are some pic's of the progress. I have put casters on the table so when I retract the adjustable feet I can roll the beast. Then a little adjustment of the feet downward and the beast is firm and level. :D

[timberlinemd]

I was able to get the X,Y & Z rails mounted and rolling on the table, gantry and Z slide. Will mount motors tomorrow.

[KenC]

Great progress. You are very close to dust making now.

Keep em coming!

[Gerald D]

Nice progress!

That trolley jack reminds me of our table moving method. ;)

[timberlinemd]

:D I have mounted the motors and taken the beast for a test drive. Did some jogging and then ran the 'roadrunner' program to see what it looks like with a computer in control. This is all done without the router turning. Very nice!!

Question: It is 101 degrees F (38C) ambeint. After some jogging and running the 'roadrunner' program motor tempetures at the housing was 122F (50C). My motors are the PK296A2A-SG7.2, wired unipolar. Is this normal?

Also, I need only reverse polarity on only one of the 'A' or 'B' coils to change motor rotation, correct?

[timberlinemd]

I searched the forum and found all the answers to may questions:)

[MetalHead]

Cool !!! Sounds like you are making great progress!!!

[timberlinemd]

It has been a few months since my last post. The weather here has finally dropped below the 100-degree mark. Most of July was at 110 degrees (43c). August was mostly 105 degrees (40.5c). And September mostly just above 100 degrees (38c). Not very good for painting outside.
Today it was only 87 degrees (30.5c). Perfect!:D

[timberlinemd]

Here are some more pics.

[Kobus_Joubert]

One thing about the dry sunshine area where you live....NICE CLEAR PICTURES.....looking good :)

[smreish]

....HEY LOOK, a homage' to Gerald! There's a bin in the background. :D

Nice work

BTW, Steve it looks like you know your tools. A Beismeyer fence on the table saw...maybe an overarm router in the distance....nice home shop.

[Gerald D]

That "cart" was the first thing I noticed! :D

[timberlinemd]

Sean,
The 'homage' to Gerald is the decals provided by Mike AKA 'MetalHead' attached to my machine. I will stamp the serial number between the two flags after I'm able to do my first cuts.

It even glows in the dark!:D

PS. The machine in the backround is a feeder for the 7-1/2hp 3ph shaper I use to make doors.

[timberlinemd]

Can anyone tell me if now would be the oppertune time to glue down the spoil board?

[Regnar]

I have read a Notched Trowel works good. I think Gerald is the one who recommended that but I could be wrong.

Edit: I was right here is the thread http://mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1422

[timberlinemd]

I finished the wiring today and started to look into the dust collection system. Tomorrow I think I will be ready for a test drive. Then on to the final adjustments of the X,Y,Z. If I can get the 'roadrunner' cut, I will post tommorrow. That will qualify me for a serial number, right?:rolleyes:

[KenC]

What a beauty！

[MetalHead]

Lookin Great !!!

Can we see inside your control box? What size and kind of boc is that?

[timberlinemd]

Mike, see post #1 for details of the box and a pic

[MetalHead]

So the G540 is mounted in the Face with the ports sticking out to hook up the cables?

[Gerald D]

Suggest you rig a "shelf" over those connectors...to catch a dropped C-clamp.

[timberlinemd]

Gerald,
I will look into that.
I have a problem with my proxy sensors. They require a 12v DC power and take 200 mA. I think I am losing power so I disconnected the three that I have and tested the power supply for 12v DC. I have that under no load. If I connect one proxy up and measure the voltage under the load I get about 6v. Is this a normal loss measuring a circuit under load?

[domino11]

Steve, your 12V supply should not droop that much. Sounds like the proxy is not connected on the right wires. Is it possible the proxy output is across the supply?

[timberlinemd]

I have isolated the problem to the 12v DC transformer (Radio Shack). With the transformer isolated I measure 12v. When I connect a 37 mA load to the terminals I get a short burst of electricity to activate the device but then the transformer loses all voltage. I attached the test load to another power supply with no problem in activating it.

[timberlinemd]

Gerald- a shelf would have been required in any case, so as not to accumalate any obstructions on the spoil board!:o

[Gerald D]

Steve, I just wanted to get you thinking about protecting those cables/connectors which very exposed to accidental drops/bumps/kicks/etc.

[domino11]

Steve are you running the transformer direct or do you have a bridge rectifier and capacitor filter on the output side? What are you using for the 37mA load and how are you doing the measurements? DC or AC range on the meter?

[timberlinemd]

Heath,
The problem was that the NEW 12v DC power supply I purchased from Radio Shack was bad. Before I installed it into my power panel I did check it for polarity and got a 12+ volt DC on my voltmeter. However, at the time I didn't have any componets to test it under load. Now that I'm ALMOST ready to cut something I found that the power supply would crash when any load was applied. It simply would lose all voltage. It was rated at 1.5 amps so there should have been plenty of power. I replaced it with another and everything works fine.

[timberlinemd]

Now that I have my MM to 'home' and the X,Y limits work I have another question. I configured my system to work the way Seans system does. This system can be found under the 'Proxies & Limits' discussion in another post. Basically, Sean wired proxy sensors to a relay board that used one common pin to the BOB. I find that with this system that the X-axis only requires one proxy. The X-2 (A) axis proxy is just redunant unless you consider the possibly that that side of the gantry could somehow derail. Is this thinking correct? Also, why would I need to enable the X-- and Y-- limits in MACH when I find that the X++ and Y++ limits trip anyway when reaching the opposite ends of the rails?
Steve

[Greg J]

Steve,

I've been running my MM with one prox. (the way you describe) on the X-axis for awhile now. Never an issue and runs great.

[smreish]

Steve,
To further our discussion via PM, the x1 and x2 are redundant, but used for the derailing of the machine during an event. My machine #5 would often get derailed because the operator would leave an air hose, shop rag or other hanging on the rail and it would derail. Often only one side....thus the prox's on both sides of the machine.

Sean

[timberlinemd]

Sean,
That would be a GOOD reason to activate the other X proxy!:eek:

[timberlinemd]

Making dust!:D
I would to thank, like many before me, Gerald for his great design and generosity in allowing the world to benefit from it. I also want to thank all of the people in this forum who have contributed many hours of their time in finding great solutions to building the MM in the best possible way. So, without further ado here are some pics of my MM’s first cuts of the infamous ‘Roadrunner’…

[smreish]

Steve,
Awesome! Congratulations. Glad to see your well on your way....building it was only part of the challenge. Using it is another whole new skill set.

I can't wait to see your first production part.

So, what the heck number are we up to now? I remember the race to 3, 4 and 5......

Sean

[timberlinemd]

I'm hoping its '66' (route 66).

[bradm]

That would be an excellent number. Congratulations! I remember pushing to get the "last" serial number, back when we were going to stop numbering after 10. Based on that, I think Mike should declare that 100 will be the final serial number. Heck, some people might even believe it ;)

How close are you to getting your kicks in Flagstaff or Winona?

[domino11]

Congrats Steve! :)

[KenC]

Well done! Congrats!
Now the fun had just begin。。。

[MetalHead]

Well Done !!!

Congrats !!!!

#66 it is for you !!!

[Greg J]

Congrats Steve,

The fun is only starting. :)

[Robert M]

A long awaited moment you cherish…..
Congrats Steve and good luck sorting out it’s quirks ;)

[jhiggins7]

Steve,

Congratulations on a fine looking MechMate and Serial #66.

Here is the Updated Builder's Log (https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&hl=en).

Please let me know the dimensions of your MM for the Builder's Log.

Also, please review your entry and let me know any changes you would like.

[timberlinemd]

I want to thank all the well wishers for their support!
I've been learning the fundimentals of Mach3 and tuning the beast. The first question I have is about slop. I find that the motors (PK296A2A-SG7.2) when turned on and engauged into the rack have a .030" total slop when grabbing the router collet and applying hand force in the Y direction (both Y++ and Y--). I have adjusted the springs to their tightest location and that helped allot. When adjusting the springs and with the motors still on I found that the shaft of the motor would slop that amount by turning the gear by hand. I assume that this is normal for this motor. The X direction only has a .010" slop and I assume that is because there are two X motors and if they are not perfectly the same in each rack then one will lock the others slop out somewhat. So far I cannot find anything else that would cause this condtion. Can anyone please advise?:confused:

[Alan_c]

Have you checked the grub screws holding the pinion gear to the motor shaft, it has a sneaky habit of loosening up. Do a search on the forum, there are plenty of posts regarding this.

[timberlinemd]

Alan,
Indeed, the grub screw was loose. Also, I'm finding that the 10-32 thread in the pinon from the manufacture is just too small to lock to the shaft of the motor. I have tightened the screw to the point of bending/twisting the allen wrench and I still get play/slop in the pinon. Nils, AKA Sailfl, had a simular problem with his machine and reworked the pinons to take 1/4-20 grubs. That is what I will do and report back as to the outcome.
Steve

[timberlinemd]

I decided to add a Z-proxy and here is my solution to its placement. I used a metal 'nail protector' used in housing to prevent the trades from nailing into water pipes/electrical and the like. Simpson Strong-Tie would be a name brand. I drilled two small 6-32 threaded holes in the spider to accept the plate and the slot for the proxy was created by drilling some holes side by side and then filing the flat of the slot. The proxy 'sees' the edge of the Z-stiffener. When the Z is fully in the up postion the metal of the stiffener is above the proxy thus tripping the limit.

PS- As stated earlier I'm no welder, so if anyone notices the gaff in the bottom vacuum holder, I'm still experimenting. Using a 'stick welder' on thin material is challenging.:o

[domino11]

Steve,
If that little gaff is the worst you did with a stick on that thin stuff, I congratulate you. I would not have tried that without a mig. Even then it is not that hard to get burn through on thin stuff. :)

[JamesJ]

Steve, I impressed that you can even use a stick welder on that thin stuff! :)

[timberlinemd]

Well I have retooled the pinons with 1/4-20 grubs. Used a 3/8" ratchet to tighten them. The motors have a slight movement/slop by themselves. The pinons appear to be solidly attached to the motors shaft. Using a dial indicator with the motors turned on and grabbing the router collet by hand and applying some force, I get a .005" slop up and down in the Z axis, a .030" in the Y-axis and a .010" in the X-axis. Can anyone tell me if I should be getting better values?

[timberlinemd]

I read about the .005" backlash that my motors have built-in. So, measuring with the dial indicator placed on the gantry and touching the Y-car, it indeed would move the .005" only, therefore confirming that there is no loose pinon in the Y-motor. I also noticed that I measured this from a different location than before, so I measured the Y-slop at the router collet at this position. At this location I only get .010" slop instead of the .030".

[Regnar]

Steve, are you pushing with your hand to figure out the backlash?

If you are pushing you are measuring deflection. This means all your doing is fight the spring that is attached motors. This is also the reason for ruff cutting a finishing passes.

To measure backlash you would need to move the axis under power. Similar to this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1c5ZzxlhMq0

If you are measuring under power and you are still ending up with these numbers something is loose or your steps per is off a little. You will not end up with zero but you should be pretty close to the factory's .005

By the way great looking machine you built there. Looking forward to seeing what you make with it.


Just out of curiosity how long did it take you to paint all the nuts, bolts and washers. :eek::D

[jhiggins7]

Steve,

Thanks for the information.

Here's the Updated Builder's Log (https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&hl=en)

[timberlinemd]

Russell,
Thanks for the reply. Yes I was pushing by hand. I spent some time ajusting and then learning enough G-code so I could run some cut tests. I ran a 45 degree diagonal line and a circle. The line and circle showed no chatter!:D The circle came together exactly wher it began! Gerald your design is so sweet!:)

[timberlinemd]

I'm trying to get my head around the way some people decide to set up a large wood cutting CNC. When looking at the Mach and CNCzone sites I find that there are many that operate metal mills, not so much wood routers. So some of the assumptions I have made may be in error. The author/programmer/user of the CAM software I have chosen to use has made the software to default to following...

1) A spoil board will need to be used.

2) The 0.0 Z plane is at the surface of the spoil board.

3) The values for the different tool path levels are “inverted”, meaning negative numbers are above 0.0 and positive numbers are below 0.0 or down into the spoil board.

Also, he has defauted to using absolute coordinates instead of relative.
He has provided the means to change these settings, but looking at his approach, it seems to make more sense in panel processing with a spoil board than the Mach3 method which I assume again was written more for the metal mill CNC. e.g. dosen't have any spoil board.

In reading the Mach3 docs I'm assuming that the Z-axis 0.0 setting is on top of the work piece and sending the cutter down into the work uses negative numbers.

These two approaches would produce very different G-code.

I would like any thoughts on these different ways to process panels.

Thanks

[Gerald D]

The author/programmer/user of the CAM software I have chosen to use has made the software to default to following...

Which software is that? It sounds very unconventional.

[timberlinemd]

Gerald,
The software is VCamm and intergrates with VCadd, the CAD software I have used for my drawings for years. This is the first time I have used VCamm.

[timberlinemd]

Gerald,
Also, by your response I assume that this is not the method you would recommend using? :confused:

[Gerald D]

I am not recommending anything - simply observing that Vcamm is apparently forcing you to be the opposite of 99% of other CNC operators.

[Greg J]

Steve,

I've been using Vcarve Pro for a year or so. Great program, in my opinion. I set my Z = 0.000 at the top of the part I'm making. All cutting is in the negative Z direction. Just my preference. Vcarve Pro lets you set it where you prefer.

You might want to checkout Vectras site and their tutorials for another reference.

You'll get it. :)

[timberlinemd]

Among other things I needed to make a dust shoe for my machine. My router is the Makita model 3612. First generation. Have had it for 28 years. As ‘Scotty’ said in an episode of Star Trek NG, “No B, No C, No D”.

The type of dust system I decided to implement is the ‘fixed’ style of dust shoe. The problem with that is the router’s massive body size. It isn’t round so I had to come up with a design that would allow it to go below the base of the dust foot. I chose the brush Gerald recommended in his post on building his dust shoe. I wanted to keep the entire length of the brush, which is 4”, so it would be sure to ride over any clamps. The photos that I show of the sheet metal prototype was modified smaller, because in the end I had to cut away some of the router’s body parts otherwise the shoe would have been a sasquatch (big foot).

After the sheet metal work I set up to do my first real cut part on the MM. It was the stiffener for the sheet metal dust foot. I decided to make the first one out of ½” Baltic birch ply. I used a ¼” cutter with a ½” shank and two straight carbide tipped bits. The tip measured .008” under the ¼” diameter. I’ve had it for a long time so I’m sure it has been sharpened over the years. Anyway, I set the material in the machine, loaded the G-code and let her rip!

The part that came out is amazing! The dimensions I measured with a veneer caliper are only off by .002”, if you consider the undersized cutter and that I cut the part without compensating for it. The finish is pretty flawless. There is a slight run-out on the smaller of the two inside circles, the fillet on one side only shows a little chatter and the rest of the part fine. I haven’t checked the X-Y axis for square nor the Z axis yet. I haven’t surfaced the spoil board yet either. I’m very pleased with the machines ability to keep this kind of tolerances! In no small part due to Gerald’s design and this groups refinement of critical steps in the making of the beast.

I also added the shelf Gerald suggested over the control box to protect the G-540’s DIN plugs.

PS. A 3' long brush ended up being too short so I'm awaiting McMaster-Carr for a longer one

[mrghm]

very nice cut quality

[timberlinemd]

Hey Gang,
I need some advice. I have adjusted my Z-slide according to the post Gerald made using a sheet of glass, framing square and trammel. In my case I swung a dial indicator around with a 6" radius. After 'squaring' the Z plate, I mounted the router. I do not have a precision router holder. I made one like that shown in one of Geralds posts because I have the Makita 3612. It does have the steel dowel locators which will position router holder in the exact same spot every time it is remounted to the Z slide. I used 'stand-offs' like Gerald, but mine are removeable when the router is removed from the holder. I set my dial indicator up and swung it around on the sheet of glass. The first reading showed .150" height difference in the diamater (12") in the Y direction. No difference in the X direction. Using my CAD program I caculated how much material I needed to remove from two of the stand-offs to right the router in the holder. After I had obained a difference of only .030" in 12" I remounted everything to do an experimental cut. I should mention that the reason I settled for the .030" is because the amount that I would need to take off of the two stand-offs would .001". I could remove that amount by placing some sandpaper on a flat surface and gently sand the base of the stand-offs, but I wanted to see what would happen first.

The pictures below show the before and after. I cut a rectangle pocket using a Mach3 wizard. The cutter I had to use was a 13/16" WKW 68604 straight double flute with NO flat bottom. I'm ordering the Onsrud surfacing cutter, but I haven't decided on the spiral cutters yet.

So, after this long intro, here is my question. How close is close? Are most of the machines set-up so that the 'lawnmower' effect is non existant? The second photo, the adjusted Z, has slightly visible lines in the cut. You cannot feel any 'steps' when you run your hand across. Where the cutter 'turned' the corner 'steps' are a little more noticable than anywhere else. I'm I wasting my time at this point because the cutter I'm using is wrong for this kind of cut? Should I go back and take out that .030" travel in the 12"?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Before: 1st Pic

After: 2nd Pic

[Gerald D]

Steve, I think you have done particularly well and can stop trying to get it better.

[Greg J]

That's better than my setup. :o

Nice job Steve.

[timberlinemd]

Gerald, Greg... Thanks for the kind words and advice. I will move on the final squaring of the X and Y.

[timberlinemd]

Gareth... sorry, thank you also for your kind words!

[timberlinemd]

I just wanted to update the progress that was made last week with the problems I was having with the CAM software I was using. I contacted the provider of the software and they were very eager to hear about my suggestions in regards to how their software worked with my machine. They have been marketing mostly to 'Multi-Cam' users as a third party alternative, I believe. Anyway, for a week now they have been sending me revisions of the program to test on my machine! At this time the last revision is doing everything that I want! They told me that they were going to use allot of the changes that they made for me and include it into their software.

[Gerald D]

This is the "shelf" I had in mind:

10592

[BlueFeather]

Gerald,
Couldn't you use an air vent cover like the one below. It's adjustable and magnetic. But you could also use double sided tape to adhere it to the box? If it's only to keep the dirt out maybe use the idea and make a metal one. Might be a lot more durable than the plastic. Just a thought.
Blue

[MetalHead]

Here is a simple option. I have one of these and they hang on real strong.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-magnetic-hanging-tray-with-screwdriver-holder-66808.html

[timberlinemd]

The cover of the panel is aluminum. It acts as a heat sink, not too magnetic.:rolleyes:

[timberlinemd]

After having my share of botched parts from moving while being cut I finally decided to add vacuum holddown.

A big thanks to Gary Campbell over at the Shopbot forum for his wisdom on vacuum systems.

I designed my 'black box' based on Gary's with my own modifications. If anyone has questions, post them here and I will try to answer them.

Now for some pics...

Cutting the parts.

[timberlinemd]

Then asssembly...

[timberlinemd]

The control box and another pic of the 'black box'.

[timberlinemd]

Then on to the plenum..

[timberlinemd]

Piping..

[timberlinemd]

I used slide valves for the four zones and added pneumatic cylinders to control 'open/close'..

[timberlinemd]

Loaded my spoil board (Trupan) and turned the thing on. 5" hg with the loose spoil board. Held real well for a skim cut (.020).

Removed the spoil board and applied melamine glue to the plenem. Flipped the spoil board and turned on the vacuum to hold down the spoil board while the glue dried.

Added a 1/4" sheet of 1 sided melamine to stop leakage through the top of the spoil board. I hadn't yet cut the top surface of the spoil board and still had to stop the vacuum long enough to position the 1/4" sheet cause it sucked down hard and fast. 8" hg. Sweet!

[Kornerking]

Oh.......

I like the pneumatic open and close.

Nice to be sucky.

Couple of questions.
Are all vacuum motors running at the same time?
What did you use for a dust filter?

[timberlinemd]

Four motors (Amtek 117123) are paired. I plan using one pair (primary) to hold material until I get to the onion skin cut. I will then use the other pair (secondary) if needed as I will no doubt loose vacuum.

The white piping in the pics contain a filter (STP SA9053) that i obtained from the auto parts house. Many people feel that the spoil board acts as a filter, which it does, but I went ahead and added the above anyway.

[Kornerking]

I use a filter in mine.About every 3-4 months I need to clean it out or replace. Simple 10 minutes of insurance.

[Kornerking]

Are yours wired to come on automatic?
I'm thinking about doing that.

[servant74]

Great looking vac system

[Tom Ayres]

Wow, I really like your design, cool concept:cool:

[timberlinemd]

Are yours wired to come on automatic?
I'm thinking about doing that.

Manual only. Gary Campbell, who is the original designer of the 'Blackbox Vac' started out with a automatic system, but soon found that trying to keep the motors running correctly, especially after cutting into the spoil board became too much of a 'moving target'.

For more info go here...
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?11813-Black-Box-Vac-Source

[timberlinemd]

Wow, I really like your design, cool concept:cool:

Big thanks to Gary Campbell for the vac and plenum ideas!

[Tom Ayres]

I was commenting more on the pneumatics/vac package you had put together, good job