PDA

View Full Version : Building Boats #99 -Perth, W.Australia


David Bryant
Wed 21 April 2010, 14:38
Hi All
I am planning at the moment, thinking of starting with a "kitchen table machine" to get the electronics and software up and running.
Any other Perth builders around?
Cheers
David

shaper
Wed 21 April 2010, 23:11
David

I'm in Perth also, have my control box done and running staring on mechanics, PM me if you'd like to discuss etc.

domino11
Thu 22 April 2010, 08:11
Welcome David!

Planedriver
Sun 25 April 2010, 10:24
Hi David,

Welcome.

I'm going to be visiting Perth next month for 3 weeks. Love the place and thinking of moving there.

Good Luck on your build.

Rob

David Bryant
Thu 13 May 2010, 03:02
Just installed
an X box controller onto the "kitchen bench" project.
Worked VERY Well :)
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,12753.40.html

David Bryant
Thu 13 May 2010, 15:06
Hi
I work at a TAFE college (Oops that is so old school we are Central Institute of Technology now)
I found an old mechanical XYZ axis machine with OLD steppermotors so I have helped a group of students to get it running. This is the "kitchen bench" project.
We are using Jaycar kits (modified)as the stepper drivers and a PMDX-122 Bob. A solenoid valve controls the air to a 1/8 inch die grinder on our bench test. The boss was happy with the outcome and will provide the cash for the students to make the wiring neater and "less of a tempory nature" Then we will experiment with some servo drivers.

Yesterday students installed an X box controller onto the "kitchen bench" project. Worked VERY Well
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,12753.40.html

I am collecting parts for the MM build as I learn the software, spent most of this weeks pay on the V wheels.

Cheers
David

MetalHead
Fri 14 May 2010, 05:00
Welcome aboard

David Bryant
Mon 24 May 2010, 15:26
Hi
I see I have been moved to construction started.
Good thing as I welded the first bit of my MM on the week end.


The photoes show my metric ground Z plate finished and on the mill.

The other two photoes show the old machine the students at work got running this month. It has been a good experience for them and can cut a massive 115 X 100 X 100mm.

"Management" was so impressed they gave us $ for a bigger machine to be built by the next group of students.

I have to get my hands on it to learn about Mach3 and software things.
At least my kichen bench project moves :)

Cheers
David

David Bryant
Sat 19 June 2010, 03:52
Hi All
I have welded my legs, drilled the MDF Base board and bolted the chanels to the board. I have the 10 10 306 tacked in place with the table upside down.

How accurate do I need to be with the level on the table before I weld the channels (10 10 3020 to the main beams (10 10 310)?

Do I need to be more accurate when I install 10 10 304 braces?

I am not sure if the weight will allow the whole table to flex and I get it flat by adjusting the feet when I turn it up the right way, or if it is ridged enough to just rock on three out of four of its legs on a non flat surface and any non flatness of my set up would be set in when I weld the next section.
Thanks
David

Surfcnc
Sat 19 June 2010, 21:10
Hi David

In answer to your question I don't know HOWEVER it is always best to start right to stay right.

Look at my thread http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2398&page=3 post number 85, where you will see that I used sheets of paper on top of my timber blocks to get a nice level surface.
The paper will burn if welding too close to it so watch out for that.
My table is bolted but the principal is the same.

Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Sat 26 June 2010, 17:42
Hi Jed

I got a student to draw a circuit board in EAGLE and it generates the G code for each side and the drilling g code.
I watched over his shoulder.
Other G code out from the wizards on Mach3.
Last week I got the lic for works copy of Mach3 and I think it is easy Cad and the extensions to Mach3.
I have not got these loaded yet.


I just got permission to bring the small machine (OTAZ) home for the next month for me to learn the software.

Steel came from Da Lenia Metals (check spelling) The cuts on the small bits were excellent. However the cuts on the main beams and cross beams were by hand rather than on the slow off cut saw.
(I am sure if you asked they would improve on this.
They cut the main beams at 3270mm for me so I have some cutting space without a table under it.
I have just got the cross braces at the longer end to think about as the 101 010 304 would go through my free cutting area.

I have put the last three cross beams under the table on with large tack welds so it can be cut off easily in the future when need arises.

Yesterday I put on my new safety boots, thanks for the reminder, turned the table the right way up and moved it to the other side of the block as a neighbour is already upset by the cutting and welding noise :( This was not as easy job on my own...

Cheers
David

David Bryant
Sat 07 August 2010, 01:43
Hi
After the delay adding concrete to the carport floor I made some progress today.
I wanted to be able to set a prox sensor to stop the machine on the z axis if the tool travels too far down.
To do this I chose an 8mm diameter prox NPN NC and tapped several holes to mount bent steel tags to.
The steel tags, one for the Up position and one for the down position are easily adjustable.
I notice after building that it would be slightly easier if the angle holding the prox was longer.
By making the sensor tags out of steel the sense distance is maximised to make it easier to set up (Not Aluminium).
Cheers
David

David Bryant
Sun 17 October 2010, 03:05
Hi All

How do I change the Title of my build thread?
Thanks
David

AuS MaDDoG
Sun 17 October 2010, 03:18
Hi David,
You cannot change it, the admins are the only ones that can change it.

Cheers
Tony.

David Bryant
Sat 30 October 2010, 19:16
Found an unusual bug today. The Toroidal transformer has two 45V windings that I wired in parrallel to get the current to drive the four stepper drivers.
However it took me a while to determine that the toroidal transformer has different number of windings in each of the two main output windings. Whenever they were in parrallel they would blow the input breaker. I checked the phase markings and they were correct. When I measure the open circuit voltage one is 39V and the other is 54 Vac. Both are labelled 45. This is within the ac range for the motion king drivers I am using so I will rewire to suit.
I assume that no winding is shorted as I do not have a high ac current with no output load.

Cheers
David

Gerald D
Sat 30 October 2010, 23:41
The supplier of that transformer needs to know that he supplied a dud transformer, or you should tell us who it is so that we can steer clear of that supplier.

David Bryant
Tue 02 November 2010, 17:30
Hi Gerald
I returned the transformer. It only had Australian standard and NZ standard marks on it so you should not worry about getting one! The wholesaler took it back with detailed description of the fault.
I preffer not to put out negative publicity due to one fault. They did not have any other 500vA transformer in stock so now I am setting up on a 300VA, 40 Vac input to the stepper drivers, a little low by my calcs.

Comments please.

The new transformer (By the same manufacturer) shows no Vac between non connected windings (like I got with the faulty one) and I tested with windings in series and parallel.

So onto more wiring and redoing my 45Vac wiring I messed up to do the testing on the other trnsformer.

Cheers
David

David Bryant
Tue 02 November 2010, 17:46
Hi
Just went to bolt in the new torroid and the perrished rubber washers in with the new torroidal had metal bits on it! one was 3mm across! Hmm Close look at the old insulator, that did not go back with the old one is "embedded with filings". No evidence that this was the cause as I did not notice any cuts under the otherone.
Cheers
David

David Bryant
Sat 12 March 2011, 15:54
Hi
After a break and a trip overseas I got back onto the MM this last week.
Chinese spindle installed with VFD.
I used these VFD settings
> Firstly, adjust the PD013 to 8 (set the setting to factory setting)
>
> Secondly, adjust the PD005 to 400
>
> Thirdly, adjust the PD004 to 400
>
> Finally, adjust the PD003 to 400
>
> Finally, adjust the PD144 to 3000
>
> Note: you should set PD013, PD005, PD004,PD003, PD144 in order. It mean
> you should firstly set PD013, then PD005, then PD004, then set PD003,
> finally set PD144.
>
> Note: after you set the all above parameter, then please recheck the
> PD005, PD004, PD003 value is 400 or not to confirmed that you already
> set it. (note: please do not check the PD013, or all the setting will go
> to factory setting)

This gave me front panel control of the chinese VFD from Lovehappy shopping.

When the spindle first ran it was like a sewing machine so much vibration I only ran it for a couple of minutes. ??? With and without cutting bits it was vibrating.
On investigation I found an earth missing and two V rollers on the Z axis loose.

I am using a cooling system using the supplied fittings and thin black poly tube running off a water supply pump for a caravan and an old oil cooler. Had not temp issues

When I put a new cutting bit in the spindle seamed a LOT smoother.
I am not sure if the balance is correct or just sometimes the nut is in the correct spot.
Suggestions to test please...........
I then set PD001 to 1 and wired the spindle control to external using the DCM and FOR inputs in series with a NO Contact on the emergency stop relay and the spindle control relay from my PMDX J7 NO and Com. This gave me the expected start stop control of the spindle via Mach3. ( I plan to add a (Normally open) pressure, or flow switch in series with these so the spindle will not run without coolant.)

I have an xbox controller on it so did a first drawing and cut with manual control. How can i set the acceleration rate when driving it with the xbox controller?
The machine moves well under its own control, I think without loosing steps, though when the xbox controller is given a full move it skips steps unless controller is moved gently to maximum.

Time to start the "fine tuning"
Anyone got a link to a recommended sequence to squaring axis and setting up?

Any experienced operators in Western Australia?

Thanks
David

Surfcnc
Mon 14 March 2011, 03:47
David

The PD settings seem to be the same as I used.
I am wondering why you did not run the spindle without the nut and collet in place if you suspected balance was an issue.
Also you seem to add information that is unrelated to the first issue eg. movement of the axis.

To make absolutely sure everything is set OK in the VFD, do the factory reset, that is PD13 set to 8, then enter all the numbers again.
Secondly ensure your wiring to the VFD and the spindle is intact both the 240 volt input and the three phase output to the spindle.
Third run only the spindle without a cutter, nut or collet in place.

I do not understand your spindle control method but if the spindle feels smooth on manual rotation, I would also put this on your possible list of causes eg something like a pulsed signal might be going on.

Not all that much help I admit but that is all I can think off at present.

Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Mon 11 April 2011, 23:30
Cut my MechMate sign on my MechMate! Acrylic mirror cut filled with liquid paper.
:)

Surfcnc
Fri 15 April 2011, 06:35
David, the machine pops into the light, well done.
Be sure to make a few things with your new Mechmate CNC machine and show us all the results.

FYI - Mrs Nesmith of Mike Nesmith from the Monkeys fame, got rich inventing liquid paper, personally I think she actually invented the smallest paint tin ever.:)

Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Mon 22 August 2011, 17:40
Hi All
Joined and flattened rough sawn Jarrah. Tree fell on a friends farm a few years ago and he had it rough sawn.
I finally got some and have got the top done.
Cheers
David

Kobus_Joubert
Mon 22 August 2011, 23:12
I like people using the MechMate as a planer... works very well..Like REAL wood as well.

David Bryant
Tue 23 August 2011, 01:16
Even programed in spreadsheet to write the G code:)

Surfcnc
Tue 23 August 2011, 04:26
Great job, nice timber too.
Every time I use my machine I learn more about what it can do (and what I shouldn't do to !!)

Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Sun 27 November 2011, 01:15
Hi Guys
I have had an intermittant problem where the computer resets.
machine stops suddenly and computer does a post reset reboot.

I have added noise filter on computer ac supply, no change.
Changed the plastic case around the reset button as it was not mooving well, Ok I broke a bit off but still no change to the fault. Thought about a new computer case and supply but as the shops are shut I kept looking.

I found the power supply to BOB low about 3.2V
Changed this and now has a solid 4.7V and added an extra power supply cap on BOB 5V

Just run for twice the approximate time it was taking to fail without a hitch.

My Question: Would a low voltage on the BOB cause a PC to reset?

Cheers
David

Surfcnc
Sun 27 November 2011, 04:15
Hi David

Can't answer you question directly but the single most common cause of a machine resetting is RAM. If unmatched sticks are present in the memory slots this can also be a possible cause but sometimes it is just a stick that gives up periodically.

You can remove the 2 reset push pins on the motherboard if you think their might be a short. You only need the 2 power button push pins to run the PC (LED and Reset are both unnecessary).

You don't mention swapping out the PC, I would definitely do that if you can get your hands on one.

Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Sun 27 November 2011, 05:06
Good ideas Ross
I have another computer set up at work not being used.
Computer is very old not sure if RAM is matched.
I will set it up to swap after the next reset.

Thanks
David

David Bryant
Mon 05 December 2011, 03:53
Hi Ross
I have put a new power supply in the computer and it has not stopped since (the RAM i got second hand did not work). So it is cutting smoothly.
I have setup a backup PC and testing the driver gets a huge variation, up to a few milliseconds, in the speed tests. It is running at 2.6GHz
Any suggestions?


I have ordered a set of plans for something to build on the MechMate :)

http://www.f-boat.com/pages/News2/F-85SRconcept.html

Cheers
David

sailfl
Mon 05 December 2011, 04:00
David,

Nice looking boat. Like to see photos as you build

Surfcnc
Mon 05 December 2011, 04:04
Hi David

Power supply it is then, in the end most intermittent PC hardware problems are addressed by the time honoured swap out and wait process.

You new machine - did you clean install the operating system?
Rather than try to find the process that is causing the delay, it is easier to start fresh and then test the systems response.

Boat Plans - you are a devil for punishment, it looks like another big project.

Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Mon 05 December 2011, 04:31
Hi Ross
Clean install on the PC a few more processes running than the older machine so I might try and eliminate some more. ( I had a very competent student set up the last one.)

Big project? Boat? what do you mean 5 years, Tops. Can't be too hard the plans exist :)
My Master of Engineering project took over ten years...

David Bryant
Tue 07 February 2012, 19:28
Hi
I have Vac bagged the flat panels 450 gram per m sq bidirectional Fiberglass on each side of 10mm M80 Foam, most 1220x 2440 mm. This has peel ply on each side.
Cutting the flat panels then on the MM.
Mostly using solid carbide straight router bits. These leave the swarf in the cut partly and hold the part, like Nils showed me on plexiglass.
Dust is seriously bad... glass and foam and static.

One trap was any dry parts of the laminate getting the peel ply wrapped up and melting to the bit. Led to two brocken bits.

Cheers
David

David Bryant
Mon 04 June 2012, 04:06
A strange adition to what has been made on the mech Mate.
Attached is photo of a tesla coil with a dozen parts cut on the Mech Mate.
Cheers
David

rischoof
Tue 12 June 2012, 02:24
David,
nice work. Yesterday I had a discussion with a colleague about a tesla coil. He wants to build one. are there plans available from the one you build? I also wondering when people are using a tesla coil. I saw some you tube movies.

David Bryant
Wed 13 June 2012, 02:30
Hi Rik
we used the website http://teslacoildesign.com/ and the software from there choosing sizes to suit the equipment we had around.
I have the gcode or DXF files for the base, Though we only made it that big as we only had 3/8 copper not 1/4.
We also made the cone at the primary winding instead of a flat winding "for asthetic reasons".
We have used a neon sign transformer to supply the primary.
PM or email me if you want data or links.
Regards
David

MetalHead
Wed 20 June 2012, 08:57
So David Your machine looks to have all the stuff done to get a serial number. Can someone make sure I am seeing this correctly ? Looks like your getting plenty of use from your MechMate that is for sure !!!

domino11
Wed 20 June 2012, 09:51
Sawdust Post #23 (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=52610&postcount=23)

Labels and Blue Paint Post #21 (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=50290&postcount=21)

Looks good to me! :)

David Bryant
Wed 20 June 2012, 17:44
Too much dust... My dust collector is an old vacuum cleaner and duck tape...
Resurfaced the table this week.
Usually get something done each week, It is a Hobby machine rather than a workhorse, Just because I have a job, Not that the MM design is only for a hobby.
Tesla Coil should be running next week with the students.
Next will be to cut formwork to make the beams of the Trimaran.
Cheers
David

MetalHead
Thu 21 June 2012, 11:36
David - Looks like we were a little slow getting you a number !!! :D You get #99

domino11
Thu 21 June 2012, 12:27
Congrats David! Looks great! :)

jhiggins7
Thu 21 June 2012, 14:22
David,

Congratulations on completing your MechMate and earning Serial #99.

Looking good.:) Here's the Updated Builder's Log. (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc)

Feel free to make changes to your Entry. Just let me know and I'll update your entry.

Also, we like to include the "cutting" dimensions in the Entry. Please let me know what your dimensions are so that I can update your Entry.

David Bryant
Thu 21 June 2012, 17:07
Thanks for the builders number that Gerald thinks is sexy ;)

Cutting size 2750mm long 1300mm wide cutting. Extra 350 mm cutting over the edge of the actual table to cut deeper objects.

11 Month build Finished April 2011.
Most use is cutting form work for building the Farrier F85SR Trimaran.
Regards
David

jhiggins7
Thu 21 June 2012, 18:24
Thanks, David.

Update here (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc).

David Bryant
Thu 19 July 2012, 17:45
Resurfaced the table
Added a V bit cut a rectangular path over zero end quarter of the table.
V cut similar crossing on bottom of new MDF 18mm sheet as spoil board.
Glued new MDF down with a little epoxy.
Surfaced MDF.
Lower MDF table is sealed with paint on the lower surface and sides.

Set up aprox 800W VAX vacuum cleaner through lower Table into the V cuts.

Worked VERY well as vac hold down for first 1/4 of the table.

I had read the posts about vac hold down then found the huge powers the large machines use at "High" vacuums and thought I was wasting my time with the VAX.
Works well (before any large cuts are in the spoil board.)
Cheers
David

KenC
Thu 19 July 2012, 19:42
Sounds like your vac actually has some potential.Few thing you can do.
BUT 800W isn't enough to whole small pieces. so please don't get disappointed. but it should have no problem holding anything larger than 300x300mm (1'x1')

1)Improve air flow by re-cutting the V grooves with 20mm end mill leaving about 6mm on the thinnest part of the spoilboard.

2)I think you have leaks within the spoil board, this is an inherent problem, since MDF is porous.
I would suggest you manage this leaks by covering the exposed/unpopulated spoil board area with vinyl floor mat.

3)Also, when the bottom side of the workpiece isn't flat, i.e. no proper seal, I usually seal the sides of the workpiece by taping it to the spoilboard with packaging tape,

Why packaging tape & vinyl floor mat? because they are dirt cheap & commonly available.

BTW, you can just screw the Grooved board on the base board & not epoxy it. make life easy when replacing.

David Bryant
Thu 19 July 2012, 20:11
Thanks for the tips Ken I will try them, I was actually surprised I got any efffect from such a low power vac cleaner.

KenC
Thu 19 July 2012, 21:28
You are welcome.
The trick is managing your leaks.
BUT, you still need the vac to generate enough vacuum head.

David Bryant
Sun 21 October 2012, 18:12
Hi
Long weekend work with the MM.
16 Aluminium mounts cut from 80x80mm 10mm thick angle.
Two bits consumed. single flute 1/4" diameter. (Ok broke the first when I hit a hold down screw..)
700mm per min 0.5mm deep per pass. Plastic backing and WD40 as the coolant/lubricant.
Big mess, Al is sharp.

Started to work loose on the wooden/threaded rod spindle mount that was only installed till I could cut a neat one, now I will have to change it :)

Cheers
David

sailfl
Mon 22 October 2012, 02:57
David,

Nice looking parts you made.

Need more bits?

Surfcnc
Mon 22 October 2012, 04:15
Hi David

Nice go at some alloy machining.
Boat parts by any chance?

Also interesting the gearbox for the Motion King stepper but I was unable to find it on their web site.
Any hints?

Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Mon 22 October 2012, 05:36
Hi Ross
try email
MotionKing Motor Industry Co.,Ltd.
http://www.MotionKing.com
sales@MotionKing.com
Tel: 0086-519 8988 6261
Fax: 0086-519 8515 1172

Brackets are for the folding mechanism of the Trimaran.
Need cleaning and sanding, reeming, anodizing.
Cheers
David

mike nelson
Mon 22 October 2012, 12:51
Hey David , i see your building a Farrier F85SR trimaran....i have a friend thats building a f-9 in my shop but its old school with the yellow cedar and such. I was just wondering if you could tell me how much are the plans for the new design of the f boat? Thanks. Mike

David Bryant
Mon 22 October 2012, 17:09
Hi Mike
My Plans were about $1900 with some extra DXF files.
However plan sales stopped last month. email Ian at ifm@f-boat.com
Tell him that you are working next to/helping the f-9 and he might still sell a set.
Cheers
David

David Bryant
Tue 20 November 2012, 04:05
Rudder mould and halves before the final vac bag.

Two mold halves were cut with 1/4" ballnose. One G code file was used and the Y axis was reversed to do the second half.

each half was made with a vac bag using the MM table as a flat refference.
The halves were decked with the MM.

Both halves and the outer carbon layer were added and the rudder was vac bagged again to the MM table.

MDF formwork was then "flexed" to release the rigid rudder from between the moulds.

Cheers
David

darren salyer
Tue 20 November 2012, 06:39
I love seeing pictures of these types of projects.
Very cool.

Surfcnc
Wed 21 November 2012, 04:02
More creative work David.

Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Tue 11 June 2013, 19:20
Hi
My son and I have Finally put the table together and got it finished.
Timber is a western Australian Jarrah. Very hard wood.
The tree died on a friends farm, cut it up, dried it and now...

pblackburn
Tue 11 June 2013, 20:19
Janka 1910 hardness. That will work the tooling if cutting a lot of it I would bet.

David Bryant
Wed 19 February 2014, 16:55
Hi Folks
I have not posted for a while but often follow some threads.

I updated the MM with a replacement computer. Windows Vista as I owned the operating system already on a clean installation. Took a while to reload mach3 to remember how the zero detection on the tool were installed etc as they did not go with my backup strategy...

SO much faster clock rate is stable to 100kHz up from the 25kHz I had before. I have not yet installed the higher voltage transformer I have, still on my list.

New aluminium spindle mount installed. The original timber one wore out though lasted a few years. I built it to last as long as it took to cut a better one, but while it was working I left it alone.

Reset the squareness of the spindle and cleaned up the coolant system. Purchased a four inch dust collector. Other than eliminating the use of expensive dust collection bags I think I preffered the old Vax system. It was out of the way when not in use and adequate for my small volumes.

Last weekend I installed the form for the middle hull of the trimaran. All the cnc cut forms from the MM.

Oops not sure how I get photo the right way up
Cheers
David

darren salyer
Wed 19 February 2014, 17:53
Sweet!!

isladelobos
Thu 20 February 2014, 03:34
Wow!!

Big Trimarans are very extended model boats in australia and those parts of the world.
Im following some constructions web's.
And the epoxy sistem will be infusion and corecells?.

Regards.

David Bryant
Thu 20 February 2014, 16:55
Hi Ros
I am using Corecell a closed cell foam. West system epoxy. I vacuum bag the flat sheets onto a flat table putting fiberglass or carbon on both sides at once. Peel ply is on the outside of the sandwich sheet. Total less than 11mm thick.

I then cut these sheets with a two flute straight router bit in a single pass keeping the speed up.
The two flute straight router bit leaves the swarf in the cut. This helps hold the part in the sheet.
No vacuum hold down on my table for big sheets. any dust collection vacuum lifts the parts and they move while cutting.

The fiberglass, epoxy and foam are all excellent insulators. So static electricity is a big problem. The dust clings to EVERYTHING.

The fiberglass when cut makes me itchy so often wear a complete dust suit and mask.

Have to watch cuts closely as if the peel ply is loose at all it will wrap around the bit and brake the bit.
Great Machine :)

darren salyer
Thu 20 February 2014, 17:03
One of my next projects is a vacuum bag setup based on a Joewoodworker design.
All this varied work using the MM fascinates me.

David Bryant
Thu 20 February 2014, 17:12
Hi Darren
my vac bag setup uses two (one small and one larger ) old refrigerator compressors as vacuum pumps. I have an old aircraft manifold pressure gauge to indicate absolute pressure attached as that is what I had around.
I have mounted this in an MDF box cut on MM

The main thing is to have the air exits from the compressors run up the inside of the cabinet. They then join together at the top and exit via a 20m tube.
This is a makeshift oil air separator so the oil runs back into the compressors. Importantly the air out let goes away from the fiberglass area so the area is not contaminated by the oil vapour / small droplets.

Mine is on three old skate board trucks/ wheels.

Opens up what can be made.
Cheers
David

darren salyer
Thu 20 February 2014, 17:14
Great idea to keep the oil in the compressor.
I had read that that can be a problem with them.
Thanks!!

isladelobos
Thu 20 February 2014, 21:13
refrigerator compressors are very high pressure pumps, it is possible more than needed, be careful with this.

Is important use special epoxy for high pressure infusion

One good read and list of pumps used for big infusions:

Link (http://www.vacmobiles.com/vacuum+pumps.html)

David Bryant
Fri 21 February 2014, 03:00
Thanks for the pressure warning.

I am only vac bagging not infusing. The glass is wet out by the resin by hand then put in a plastic bag and the vac pump is switched on. It is possible for these to pull too much vacuum and leave the glass dry. I have not had this problem and I have the two pumps on separate switches. I planed initially for a vac switch to control the vacuum. I never needed it. I usually chase leaks in the bag until I get a vac I am happy with then stop chasing and let it set.

I do have a PVC pipe as an inlet catch to stop resin going into the pumps. I have never needed it as I have never had a trace of resin into the vac line when disassembling the vac bag.

My whole rig with pipe gauges and box was from junk lying around and about $200 for bits I could not find.

The large sheets 1.2m x 2.4m worked very well as we did enough to get well past the initial learning curve. We made one a day setting up after work. vac on overnight. Disassemble before work. These were sealed onto the table and the vac pump was a lot less volume than the link (I estimate). we would pat the air out then apply pump and within ten minutes it would be down to a reasonable pressure. No way we could work fast enough to exceed the earliest time to apply the vac in the manufacturers specs for the resin.

Tom Ayres
Fri 21 February 2014, 03:58
You said your bag is plastic, is that plastic sheeting like the drop cloth type stuff? Do you use a release agent? And do you use a mesh or something to allow the vacuum to reach the farthest points? or is that the purpose of the 2 pumps? Got any Pics? I've always wanted to make my own boat. Too many Questions?:D

David Bryant
Fri 21 February 2014, 04:51
Hi Tom

Not much to see as it is in the box.
Top left is air out with a valve to close for transport and keep bugs out. Old 19mm corrugated conduit as long air outlet pipe.
Air inlet is top right starting on al tube. This goes high to help stop air flow carrying resin in, not been a problem.

Gauge is 2.25 inch diameter to get a scale panel slopes back so switch etc does not get bashed as it is rolled around.

min pressure I get absolute is 5 inches Hg.

Plastic that is best is a vac bagging film 0.1mm clear and durable. any plastic that is not melted by the wet resin is ok.

A wadding (can be old cotton or synthetic) is used under the plastic so the vacuum is spread around.
this wadding collects the "dots" of excess resin. when the lay up is done well we get up to six uses out of the wadding. One if too much resin is applied.

Under the wadding is perforated plastic.

Under the perforated plastic is Peel ply.

Under the peel ply is the part that is being made.

The vac bagging more than doubles the time required compared to a hand layup.

Better adhesion to the foam and glass to resin ratio is achieved by vac bagging.

I don't vac bag any of the large curved surfaces like outsides of hulls. Too much hassle and too small a vac pump.

Oh on my computer and phone the photo is the right way up......

darren salyer
Fri 21 February 2014, 05:59
I'm thinking after I get the SuperPID set up, I need to get going on a setup similar to yours. Thanks a lot for sharing.

Tom Ayres
Fri 21 February 2014, 08:06
Yeah thanks for sharing

David Bryant
Sun 23 February 2014, 17:18
Batterns are attached to the form frames.

10mm Corecell foam is added to the batterns by 1500 screws in recesses cut by mech mate.
This holds the hull shape for classing.
Top of hull half to the left. port side is being made.
Cheers

sailfl
Sun 23 February 2014, 18:35
Hi David,

What size boat are you making?

Looks good so far.

Warm regards

David Bryant
Wed 20 August 2014, 03:23
Boat is a Farrier F85 8.5m long

Shown on its side. all MDF and Fiberglass panels cut on MM.

I cut slots in the Aluminium mast on the weekend by mounting it next to the base board of the MM. Great Machine !!
Cheers
David

Fox
Wed 20 August 2014, 10:13
big project !
something like this ?

http://s30.postimg.org/o3qysuuf1/F_85_First_Sailing_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/o3qysuuf1/)

something like this in your garden ? (http://www.f-boat.com/pages/News4/F-44SCProduction3.html)

David Bryant
Thu 21 August 2014, 19:50
Thats the boat but not my shed...

David Bryant
Thu 09 March 2017, 20:40
Hi
Long time no post....
I am doing the final assembly of the 8.5m long by 6m wide three hulled Farrier F85.

Mech mate is covered in dust and rust spots as I don't oil it to decrease contamination of the fiberglass components. Only failure in last few years has been the computer mouse.. What a great design! :)
Cheers
David

Surfcnc
Fri 10 March 2017, 00:23
Anyone who makes a machine then a boat has got it in spaces.
Well done and hope your days sailing are long and enjoyable.

Kind Regards
Ross

David Bryant
Fri 10 March 2017, 17:16
Thanks Ross
Shame you aren't on the west coast will need a crew, it folds up and goes on a trailer might have to go see the barrier reef,
Cheers David

lonestaral
Sat 11 March 2017, 02:51
Now that is nice.
Do the solar panels generate enough power to run the machine
or just the lights. :)

Fox
Sat 11 March 2017, 05:53
Cool project. You should be proud, I see a lot of those bigger project never come to an endresult.
Care to share some more pics of it ?
Safe sailing !

jhiggins7
Sat 11 March 2017, 06:39
Wow David, what a magnificent accomplishment. I share Fox's interest in more photos. I take it that MechMate #99 played an important role in the construction of her.

kaartman
Sun 12 March 2017, 12:15
Wow David, that is a cool project, Congratulations!, same as #99 ....#20 still going strong with no glitches. To this day I enjoy watching it work.

Andrew_standen
Sun 12 March 2017, 17:14
That's look really nice. Thanks for the update.

hflwaterski
Mon 20 March 2017, 21:14
It's amazing! Show us lots of photos of the boat and the view from the boat on the water too!

David Bryant
Fri 07 April 2017, 00:42
A few photos of the progress.
Cheers
david

lonestaral
Fri 07 April 2017, 03:37
A beauty.

How about a version of this to go with it.

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/ship-wheel-plan.html

hflwaterski
Fri 07 April 2017, 07:39
Wow! Excellent work! That's quite a project and it's turning out beautifully.

David Bryant
Sat 27 October 2018, 17:48
Hi
I dusted off the Mech Mate, It was desperately in need of some maintenance as I would not oil any of it while cutting fiberglass as the risk of contaminating the work was so great.
I have put a small rotary axis off the end of the table, Many years ago I built it longer than the standard 2.4m sheet so I could do things like this. This puts the rotary axis down the Y axis so a "B axis". My screen layout on Mach 3 has 4 DRO's labelled X Y Z 4 I worked out that 4 is A by default, ie a rotary on the X axis. Does anyone know how to change this to read B axis?

I initially tested with it being A then realised it is actually a B axis. Are (cheap / free) wizards available for gear cutting on B axis?


Any suggestions on how to set tool to zero on centre of rotary axis?

Regards
David

David Bryant
Sun 28 October 2018, 02:38
Thanks for the hint search turned up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e94UGi_F5g
with the link to MachScreen
I then edited 1024.set and got the OEM Zero B and DRO B installed on my first page.
:) wont say how long it took...

David Bryant
Wed 24 July 2019, 04:03
Storm with lightning and now the computer wont start.. :(

So I went for the old back up.. it boots but no output to monitor :(

I am thinking of ditching the parallel port and BOB switching to a cheap USB to stepper driver from Bitsensor.com
BSMCE04U-PP

Has anyone used this on a Mechmate?

Any heads up on getting it going in English?

Regards
David

Surfcnc
Wed 24 July 2019, 04:41
Hi David

Hope you are having some good times on that fast boat of yours.

A solution to the "no parallel port problem" that works perfectly is the UC100.
I have no experience with the board you name but it primarily looks like a USB breakout device (could be wrong).
The UC100 allows you to still access cheap parallel port breakout boards (or use your existing one).
Additionally, the motion controller that is built-in will provide far superior pulsing as it offboards that from the PC.
The UC100 and laptop solution worked very well on a surfboard shaping machine I helped build, ran for many years daily using that combination.

The downside is that the specifications are lower than something like a smooth stepper. It is unlikely you would be pushing the machine fast enough to come anywhere near these limits.

When spending your money it pays to remember that the device is much more than a USB break out device.

Cheers
Surf CNC