Cutting quiexxxxx nevermind #104 - Kansas USA

[JamesJ]

Looking forward to building my MechMate! I'm a avid woodworker and a passable welder with a son who welds like a madman. Looks like sonny has some welding to do.

[MetalHead]

Welcome to the group !! Looking forward to your build.

[riesvantwisk]

Welcome to the group Jim!

Browse the forum, read the PDF's, browse the forum, read the PDF's ask question... read.... you will have some fun there with your son.

Ries

[Felton]

hi welcome to the forum.

[JamesJ]

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement.

[JamesJ]

I started on my control box. I also received my laser cut parts and have machined some parts on my Logan 10" lathe. I purchased a gear blank and intend to try my luck at cutting gears out of it. :) I have attached a few pics...

[Drad98_98]

Good luck Jim, I just finished mine, had a great time building it. There is a wealth of infomation and very knowledgable people on here that will help in a minutes notice, it is what made my build so enjoyable.

[Gerald D]

Jim, is that a South Bend lathe? :)

[JamesJ]

No, it is a Logan 10" toolroom lathe. It's on the small side but I still find plenty of uses for it.

[MetalHead]

That is a sweet lathe. Did you restore it? Or was it that cherry when you bought it?

I am currently looking for a nice lathe, but I want a larger one. I have a 10x22 Grizzly that has worked great for what I paid for it.

I just want to work heavier material and these Logan and South Bend machines are a good buy if you learn what to look for when you buy one.

[JamesJ]

Yes, I did a total teardown and restore when I first got it. Nobody told me about the fact that quality tooling costs many times the cost of the lathe. I might not have one if I knew ahead of time. :)

[Regnar]

Jim we have a 10x54 Clausing Lathe at work and I bet it has never chucked up anything over 10 inches. If you did the restore you it turned out great. I am almost finished rebuilding a old Bridgeport Round Ram. I am just waiting on the motor to get rewound.

What is your plan on chucking up the gear stock?

[JamesJ]

Haven't thought about it much. I have a 6" 6 jaw that might work if I use some shim stock. Or maybe just center it up in my 4 jaw. Do you have any ideas?

[JLFIN]

Jim,
welcome and good luck
bit of advice for ya, 4 jaw will work to dial that blank in, take some old copper wire and strip it back about the length of ea. jaw and slide that baby down the teeth and chuck away. 3 or 6 jaw wont hold it concentric because of the 20 teeth on blank.
another way is to bore out a heavy walled pipe, slit lengthwise then chuck back up on it
carefully bore to the dia. of blank, when you release it should let you slide the blank in to the sleeve and you should run centered( mark the jaw of the chuck and the sleeve with marker so you can return to the same place in the chuck) kinda wordy for me

[JamesJ]

Jim
Thanks for the ideas. I am going to try the wire method and see how close I can get to concentric. I used the slit/collar method to cutoff the excentric bushings so I may end up doing it that way if the wire method does not work good enough. :)

[JamesJ]

Jim
Are you building a MM?

[JamesJ]

Anyone have a US source for the c channel washers shown in this thread on the second page most of the way down?

http://mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1385&page=2

[OBXCNC]

McMaster-Carr has the washers

http://www.mcmaster.com/#washers/=664vff

[MetalHead]

Jim - Most folks make these. You can drill holes in the wing of a c-channel drop then use your grinder to cut them out. Turn them around and you have a washer that matches your channel.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3787&postcount=32

[JLFIN]

Jim- I have not started mine yet, I'm still in the procrastination stage.(design stage)
I've logged about 200 hrs of thread reading and decided I'm not to smart!!!! There are some folks on here that are. Speaking of design, I'm considering the use of ball screws, possibly one on each side for x-axis, driven by one motor located in the center, with timing belts to each side, driven by a 3 or 4 to 1 reduction, can I have feedback on why that won't work, also I really liked the builds done with I-Beams, seams a little stouter to me.

[JLFIN]

Russel, is that old mill called a "M" head, I think I owned one once upon a time but it seams to me the collets were hard to come by?(not R-8)

[Regnar]

Jim it is a M-head with a MT2 tooling. Not hard to come by but not as easy as R8 or new collet systems.

[JamesJ]

Jim
The first thing that comes to mind is cost. Ball screws aren't cheap. I also think you will have pretty long timing belts which will have to be pretty tight due to their lenght. You will also lose the flexability that two motor drives gives you. Timing two ballscrews vs simple adjustments in Mach3. I'm thinking the mechmate design is solid as is, that is why I am sticking pretty close to plan when it comes to drive arrangements.

[JLFIN]

russell, seams to me mine(which i dont think i ran) had a 3 pc split collet thing that went together inside of the locking nut, but it's been alot of yrs. good luck with that build i am sure you will enjoy it.

[JLFIN]

Jim, I'll be honest, I don't know the mach control at all, but if that were the issue a guy could put a motor on both ends. the prices i've seen on some of these links tells me that ball screws aren't as pricey as they used to be and i don't think they need to be huge (.75 or .875) but I agree, can you syncronize the ball screws? The length of the timing belts would only be about 26 inches

[Gerald D]

Cheap ballscrews have cheap seals and they jam up after being exposed to lots of dust.

[oopz]

In addition to Geralds comment above. Would You Might Need a SPINNING - NUT due to the length of the screw in the X axis (even Y if you ask me). Due to there is a high risk of that the ballscrew begins to wobble. That - and reconstruct the design (or buy a spinning nut) takes both more time and costs significantly more $ $ $. Thats my opinion (and experience) in order to obtain the same reliability in design as MM has.

For what it's worth do other DIY hardware / designers pursue to use the R & P.
In there later creations, so it seams as its cost effective..And if anything happens, it is very easy to repair to a low cost. For me was MM's use of the R & P a strong advantage.

Hope it helped you..!

/oopz

[JamesJ]

Managed to get a little shop time in this weekend and was able to get the pinion gears cut down. Need to drill and tap for the set screws next. I plan to use two set screws 90 degrees apart. Anyone else used this approach?

[JamesJ]

Jim
BTW, the wire method worked great. I was able to indicate the gear blank down to 2 tenths before boring for the shaft. Thanks!

[DeadGuy]

Hi Jim,

One question, where did you get the gear blank?

Dennis

[JamesJ]

McMaster-Carr, search for gear rod.

[JLFIN]

looks good Jim,
if you indicated them to .0002 you didn't need me,
but if you do alot of 4 jaw work take some of that dykem i saw in the picture and paint the chuck key holes on jaws 1 and 2.... makes changing parts out much easier
i agree with your set screw plan, are there flats on shaft? if not when you set in place take the root dia. drill into that hole and drill about .05 dp that will set that setscrew so she won't let that gear spin on the shaft... and if your gear has enough meat on it put a second screw on top as a lock screw.

[Gerald D]

Those gear rods come in 12" lengths, so there is plenty of material to make your gears longer and provide space for a second row of set screws:

8913

[JamesJ]

Happy Easter everyone! I hope to work on my controller this weekend but I have also begun to lookfor steel and hav a question. The plans call for 7" c-channel but I can only source 8" locally. It seems to me that I should be able to use 8" provided I get a similiar per foot weight and width. It would also yield additional Z axis travel with no interference. Any cons that I have not considered? Anyone else done this?

[Gerald D]

8" channel is fine. You can thicken your table top by 1" if you think the z-axis is getting too flexible, but the the standard z-axis should still reach the table.

[JamesJ]

Gerald, thanks for the reply. I was pretty sure but it helps to get other input. Also, thanks for the great design and website, I would not have done this if not for knowing this great resource was available.

[JamesJ]

Hello from Kansas! Hope everyone had a happy Easter. I have been working on my controller for the past month and it is mostly complete. By mostly complete I mean that I have one axis moving under computer control. Since I am having to purchase things as the cash is available I focused on getting the x axis running. Then it is a simple matter to purchase additional Gecko G203 drives as finances permit. I went with a slightly different component arrangement as I wanted to build a controller that can grow to 6 axis control in the future. I purchased six heatsinks on ebay but only used two of them for this controller. By cutting them in half and mounting them vertically I am able to accomodate six gecko drives. I cut a section of fins off and mounted the bridge rectifier to it along with the dc power bus. I also incorporated a 12 VDC power source that powers the BOB and also powers the E-Stop circuitry. I did not like the idea of putting 110VAC out on the table if not necessary. Next, I'll focus on welding the car assy. I posted some pictures of the control box.

[JamesJ]

While I have not posted for a while I have managed to get some work done. My y-car is welded and primed, I have purchased all of the required fasteners, started on the rails, purchased the V-rollers, and purchased some steel for the table.
My work on the rails so far consists of cutting the height down to 1.1 inches using my mill/drill. Since the mill/drill could not cut the entire lenght of the rail down to height I had to cut the rail in several sections resulting in slight steps where the movement was made. After the entire lenght was cut to height I used a file to remove the "steps". Next, I will cut the 45 degree angles using the grinding skate.
I decided to use I-beams instead of C-channel because I found the I-beam at a good price and, as it turns out, better accuracy. My next step of table related construction will be to assemble the gantry.
I did not get many photos but I have attached a photo of the I-Beams as they wait for more work. Enjoy!!

[JamesJ]

Hello All!
After getting my grinding skate setup to grind a true 45, I finished grinding the 45 degree angles on my Y rails. I started with the Y rails (shorter of the two) in case I fouled one up I would have less work to redo. I clamped the Y rails to my I beams for stability and proceeded to grind. The grinding was not that bad just repetitive. Tonight I took a v-wheel and, with some pressure on it, rolled it along the lenght of one of the Y rails and noticed that it felt slightly rough and noisy so I spent the next hour and a half sanding the 45 degree surfaces on both Y rails. I used a cheap machinist v block which has a machined 90 degree valley built into it, and adheisive backed sandpaper to sand the 45 degree surfaces smooth. I cut strips of each grit of sandpaper and stuck it to the walls of the 90 degree valley on the v block. Then I let the v block ride inverted on the rail and used a sanding motion to sand along the lenght of each rail being careful to keep the v block in true contact with the rail surfaces. After each pass the sandpaper was loaded with sanding debris so I removed the sandpaper from the v block, cut the loaded portion off, and re-applied the sandpaper to the v block. I started with 80 grit and worked progressively through finer grits until I got to a 600 grit. When sanding with the 600 grit I used wet/dry sandpaper and a small amount of oil. This gave me a very smooth finish and the v roller now rolls without any roughness. It also reduced the noise made by the v roller by 80 or 90 %. Now, on to the x rails...

PS: over the weekend I went to a surplus yard in Wichita and, among other things, I scored a great deal on a set of all metal, heavy duty feet for my mechmate. :)

[JamesJ]

Have not posted for a while but I have been working on my mechmate. I was able to source most of the metal (70%) for the table for little or no cost by checking salvage and being patient. In some cases I had to use short cutoffs but my son was able to weld these short pieces into long sections. I am building a "bolt together" version consisting of welded sides and bolt on cross members. I used 4" square thick wall tubing for the legs and 2" square tubing for the smaller cross braces and diagonals. My design incorporates a open front that will allow me to store material underneath the table. At this point the the table is built and assembled. I completed the drilling of the X and Y rail assemblies and drilling and tapping the I-beams. This allowed me to mount the X rails so I could start the gantry construction. I hope to complete the gantry over this weekend.

[KenC]

I wish I can weld like that...

Well done!

[JamesJ]

I wish I could to!

My son is doing all the welding on the mechmate. :)

[rcboats1]

Your build is looking good.

I like how you did the open front, I have been trying to figure out the best way to make mine so I can use it for storage. I may have to "borrow" your idea :D .

[JamesJ]

Kelly
Thanks for the compliment feel free to borrow, after all, that is the purpose of this forum. Does rcboats mean what I think it does?

[Regnar]

What is the plastic tray piece that is mounted in the Kurt Vice? It has me wondering what it is. That and the Box with all the air filters. LOL

Build is looking good. If you are able to mount a sheet of mdf under the table it will make a nice place to lie down on when you bolt down your spoil board.

[JamesJ]

Russell, the plastic is cut from a plastic package. I used it to catch the majority of the chips while drilling. Saves clean-up.
This room doubles as my finishing room and the box with all the air filters is a exhaust fan (3 gang squirrel cage) that fits in one of the doors. My woodshop is separated from this room with double doors that have filters mounted in them. When I want to spray a finish I open the woodshop windows, close the double doors between the woodshop and finishing room then place the exaust fan in the door to the outside and I have nice clean airflow in the finish shop.
There are 3 cross tubes that connect the lower sides of the table (not currently installed) and will make a nice place to lay. :)

[rcboats1]

Kelly
Thanks for the compliment feel free to borrow, after all, that is the purpose of this forum. Does rcboats mean what I think it does?

Yea Jim, it does, I have been building and racing radio control boats for over thirty years and also fly RC planes, most anything RC. One of the things I will do with my MM is molds and parts for boats and planes.

[JamesJ]

Sounds like you will enjoy your MM! I used to race R/C boats in the central US so that is why I was curious.

[JamesJ]

Once again I have been away for some time. Fortunately not having posted does not mean that no mechmate work is getting done. Even when circumstances don't allow me to post I am always watching the forum so I can learn from the other builders. I had progressed to the point of needing to setup my rails and I did manage to take some photos the process. I started with the x-axis with the idea of using the same methods on the y-axis. Lacking any accurate 10' long straight edge I settled on the wire method. This method involves supporting a wire of known diameter at two distances of known separation while having the wire under a known tension. Since my rails are of a uniform height, the wire can be used as an accurate reference when setting the x-axis installed rail height provided that I compensate for the wire sag. Suitable wire sag tables can be found on the Internet.

This photo shows the overall setup in place on the x-axis.
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/SupportsInPlace.jpg

Here are several photos of the setup I used to support and tension the wire.
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/WireSupportBase.jpg http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/WireSupport1.jpg
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/WireCloseup.jpg http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/WireSupportAdjArm.jpg
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/WeightOnWire.jpg

By slotting the wire support bars where the bolts pass through, I can set the wire to the correct height above the top surface of the x-axis rail at each end. I started with the bar too high and by leaving the bolts snug but not too tight I was able to tap the bar downward while checking the distance above the x-rail top. Since I did not want the wire to touch the rail due to sag I chose to set the wire .025 " above the rail tops at both ends. When using a wire as a reference it is important to avoid touching the wire as doing so will displace the wire and result in inaccurate results. I also took the time to align the wire laterally to each end of the rail. This was accomplished by bending the support bar to one side or the other slightly until the wire was positioned in the center of the flat area of the top of the rail. I then proceeded to use feeler gauges to determine the distance below the wire of the rail top at each location where the rail is bolted to the table beam. I used a .025" feeler gauge that I mounted on a fixture to account for the initial wire distance above the rail top.

Here are a couple of photos of the fixture in use.
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/MeasuringSetup.jpg http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/ViewofFeelerGuageInUse.jpg

I then added feeler gauges by slipping them under the .025" feeler gage until I could add no more without touching the wire. This gave me a initial measurement of how thick the shims beneath the x-rail needed to be. The next step is to account for the wire sag by adding the wire sag value to the initial measurement in order to arrive at the correct shim height needed. In my case the wire sag was approximately .006" at the mid-point of the wire. Example: If I had to insert .020" of feeler gauges at the mid-point I would need to add .006" to this to account for wire sag which would then require .026" of shims be placed under the rail to bring that point to the correct height. Once a shim was put in place I then re-checked the distance and, if necessary, made additional adjustments. I followed this procedure for each bolt location by interpolating wire sag charts to come up with wire sag values for each location.
Once I had shimmed each bolt location to the correct height I then used the wire to do my lateral rail alignment to insure that the rail is straight. I found that by using a magnifying glass it was easy to get the rail aligned and straight.
I hope you will find explanation this useful. I have received so much assistance from the mechmate community I wanted to add to the community for a change.

[aussie_mick]

Jim

Very nice and some excellent work.

Mick

[JamesJ]

I have my machine 95% done and ready to tear down for paint. Before do that I want to do some test cuts. I want to cut a roadrunner but I don't know what v-bit geometry to use. I tried a 90 degree bit but it cuts too much detail out. Does anyone know what bit to use? Thanks.

[smreish]

Any bit will work. The cheapest and ideal bit would be a 45 Degree chamfer type bit. Carbide, 2 flute from the Big Box Home center will do fine.

If you looking to see the detail, then only set the depth of cut to about 1mm or 1/16" inch to see the detail your looking for.

Good luck

Sean

[JamesJ]

Thanks Sean I'm on the hunt for a 45 degree bit now.

[JamesJ]

Ugh! I could not find one in town. I have ordered one and should get it next week. I was able to cut some circles with a 1/4 inch straight bit. I am going to do some more reading so I can try drawing something in CAD. I also am registering at the local vo-tech school for a intro to CAD course starting next month. I have a lot to learn!

[MetalHead]

Jim I made your rail alignment post a "Sticky" under Rails and Rollers. What sag chart did you use?

[JamesJ]

Used the one here.
http://www.millwrightmasters.com/School/tight_wire-sag_1.htm

[MetalHead]

Made a PDF and posted it in the sticky.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=51874&postcount=2

[JamesJ]

Looks good, thanks.

[JamesJ]

I enrolled in a CAD course at the local community college but they have not filled the class and there is only two weeks until it starts. I sure hope the class gets filled. In the meantime I have been taking care of a few odds and ends prior to teardown for paint.
I purchased the 2010 screenset so I could take advantage of the auto-zero macros. After wiring a ground wire from the BOB to the junction box on the back of the gantry I needed to have a zero plate and a tool change plate installed on the mechmate. I tackled the zero plate first by running wires to the 0, 0 end of the mechmate. I ran several wires in case I later need more wires in that area. I terminated the wires in a small plastic box mounted on the inside of the left I-Beam.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/ZeroPlate.jpg

I mounted a small terminal strip inside the box and attached the wires to it's terminals. I needed wires for the plate and, after some rummaging around, I found some pieces of proxy wire that I had left over from the proxy wiring. These wires were very flexable and well suited to this application. Each cable had four wires in it so I connected all four together rather than using just one of the conductors. I used some 1" x 1/4" flat alum. bar for the zero touch plate. I put a slight bend on one end and drilled and tapped it for the screw that attaches the wire lug.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/ZeroPlate-1.jpg

I made a bracket for the zero touch plate and mounted it to the bottom of the I-beam. To store the zero touch plate I wrap the cable over the bracket and insert the zero touch plate in a slot at the end of the bracket.
I then focused on making a tool change zero plate. The plate needed to be isolated from the machine in order to work correctly so I came up with a way to do just that. The phote below shows the parts used to isolate the tool change zero plate from the mechmate frame.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/ToolChangeZero-2.jpg

I found a set of plastic snap bushings that would allow a 8mm bolt to pass through yet keep the bolt from touching the metal of the plate. They are manufactured by Heyco and the part number is SB-437-5. Here is a link to the webpage. http://www.heyco.com/products/sec_04/4-01.html#. I removed the "fingers" in the snap bushing as they were in the way in this application.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/ToolChangeZero-3.jpg

I was able to locate some plastic spacers in my junkbox to use to hold the plate at the needed height. Any non-conducting spacers will work. I then drilled and tapped holes in the table cross support at the location that I wanted the touch plate at. I attached the ground wire and ran it back to the plastic box/terminal strip. I will route the wire inside the cross support tube after the mechmate is painted.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/ToolChangeZero.jpg

Close-up view of finished install.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/ToolChangeZero-1.jpg

Another item I needed to take care of was powering a laser cross hair for the Z-axis. I wanted to avoid having to use batteries and, after some thought, I realized that the button box on the Y-car already had +12 VDC in it because I chose to use a dc voltage on my e-stop and other buttons. I decided to try and find a dc to dc converter to power the laser with. A quick search on Ebay resulted in a DC to DC converter with the correct output voltage (+5 VDC) and small in size. I wanted to be able to switch the laser on when desired so I placed a toggle switch in the +12 VDC input lead. I found that the Y-car button box had plenty of room in it for the converter and switch. I mounted them in the box and drilled a hole for the converter led to fit in. I am currently working on a dust foot and plan to mount the laser in the dust foot.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n493/rcheli1/Mechmate/LaserCrossHairSupply.jpg

I used some more of the left over proxy cable to run the output of the converter to the Z-slide where I placed a terminal strip. Once I have the laser mounted and wired I will connect it to the terminal strip and I will be able to switch it on/off with the switch mounted on the Y-car button box.

Well that brings me up to date so see you next time!

[Alan_c]

Nice work Jim, and good clear pics too, thanks.

[JamesJ]

Once I had the mechmate cutting and fully wired/built I began the teardown so that I could begin painting. First I am detailing the metal parts by filing the sharp edges and removing burs and the like. I did not realize how much work is involved!

My son and I have been attending CAD training in the evenings at the local vocational college. Have not been to devote much time to the MM but I have found the time to be well spent as I now have a much better understanding of AutoCAD. We are done with the 2D courses and are considering taking the 3D courses.

My current build includes direct drive setups but I had always planned to go to belt drive but wanted to wait until I had the funds. In the process of getting the MM cutting properly I cut a "Wahoo" board. Wahoo is a board game that uses dice and marbles. My wife had asked me to cut two of these boards for her family reunion to be sold as gifts. She came back from the reunion with orders for 10 more! I suddenly had the money for the belt drive parts so I got started. I started with plates from Mike but had to turn adapters for the bearings because I could not find flanged bearings in the correct size. I got all the adapters made and installed on the plates and am now working on welding the plates together. Tonight I worked on detailing metal parts and I also made a spacer that I will to use keep the motor plates spaced correctly and parallel to each other while being welded together. I will post pics when I get a chance.

It's late so I must sign off for now.

Happy Holidays!!

[JasonC]

If you can take the 3D class, also you can get a discount of software from Rhino if your a student. I mentioning it because you can download any 3D drawing ,object,etc and do whatever you want with it. I found a life size full 3D model of a Terminator3. If I wanted I could build the whole thing life size with ALL parts.lol

Jason

[JamesJ]

Good news! My build is complete. Here are some of the steps taken since my last post:

Painted the machine. Thanks to Jimmy and Brad as they did the actual painting after I did the prep work.

Once we got it home I reassembled it and spent a lot of time getting it setup accurately.

I attached the Mechmate to my workshop's dust collection system. With some inspiration from a dust shoe I saw on the Internet, I drafted and then cut a dust foot with a removeable brush plate. The plate is held on by magnets and detaches to facilitate tool changes.

I purchased plates from Metalhead and built 3:1 belt drives and installed them.

I initially placed the laser on the dust foot but decided to move it to the car due to the focus changing as the Z-axis moves up and down. Fabricated a bracket to mount the laser on the bottom ear of the car. I used lexan on the part that the laser mounts in so the laser body would be isolated from the Mechmate frame. Using a macro that came with the 2010 screenset I bought, I entered the correct offsets and fixed a bug that leaves the movement mode in inc rather than abs when the macro finishes. Works a treat now.

I will post some photos of my belt drives and laser mount later.

Check this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI_RJ7mSp50) out!

[darren salyer]

Well done, Sir.
I don't think I ever cut a Roadrunner with mine.

[MetalHead]

Awesome - That MM is quiet :) !!! You get #104 !!

[JamesJ]

Folks
Thanks for the nice comments. I can't claim its quiet at all. I found the volume control in the video editor and reduced the volume of the router segment. :)

[jd.roberts]

Looks good Jim!

[pblackburn]

It does feel good to make the first milestone, completion. Great Job

[JamesJ]

Now I can start to make things!!

[darren salyer]

Hi Jim,
Very nice job.
Did you get some pics of your laser mount yet?

[JamesJ]

Darren, no pics yet. I'll get some this weekend.

[jhiggins7]

Jim,

Congratulations. Here's the Updated Builder's Log (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&usp=sharing)

Please let me know the dimensions of your MechMate for the record.

[JamesJ]

John my dimensions are 49" x 97" thanks.

[jhiggins7]

Thanks, Jim.

Here is the Updated Builder's Log (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&usp=sharing).