The control box is completed and the painted table moves! - Ft. Worth, Texas

[kn6398]

I have been lurking around the forum for over 6 months now it time to start building one. I have been acquiring parts and tool slowly. I think I have enough tools and part to start building. Before I start posting PIC just to let everyone know I have never worked with steel or done any welding in my life so done expect high craftsmanship like some the guru in this forum.

Mamba spec will be:
Gecko driver G203V
Oriental Motor PK296A2A-SG7.2
PMDX122 breakout board
Rack DP 20 part# 200011 from stdsteel.com
Pinion 30 teethes part# 200011 from Boston Gear
Cutting area will be 5x8

[Gerald D]

Welcome Kray!

[William McGuire]

Welcome Kray....

This was my 1st welding (among other things) experience also...

absolute blast learning and finding new talents...

[domino11]

Welcome Kray,
No worries, welding is not my specialty either, but we will work through it.

[kn6398]

Here are some PICs of the progress.
I burned the Chicago cheap grinder and had to buy higher amper grinder.
I wanted at least 8A grinder but could not find any that would fit my skate so I end up with the 6A Bosch with a little grinding on the skate to make it fit. I had the older version skate with hole size of 1.72.

[Gerald D]

Hey, this is all good stuff!

(except for the dead grinder - which is becoming a rite of passage for a typical MM builder)

[kaartman]

Hi Kray
Welcome, excellent job so far, my fathers comments on my welding used to be “your posture is that of a professional but … you need to practice more” we all learn.
I am amused to see how clean the steel is on the forum, mine was all rusted

[gmessler]

Hi Kray,

Welcome aboard.:)

The MM build is a great education not only in welding but electrical, machining, painting, and computer skills.

Best of all are all the great people that contribute to this forum.:)

Good luck with your build.

[Gerald D]

Kray posted some YouTube videos yesterday.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rraFsgnuh5s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbhrYvy2wFU

[kn6398]

Gerald you are quick I was going to post it here but you beat me to it.
I was trying to figure out what the links was but it was getting late.

[kn6398]

It took me about 8 minutes to grind one side of the 10ft rail on the first video. It was getting dark outside and I didn't want to disturb the neighborhood so I stopped and continued the next day.

[domino11]

Kray,
Are you using a set of speakers to set your main beams on?

[kn6398]

Yes, I listen to the music while building the mechmate.


Just kidding the speaker doesn't work I figure I might find it useful one day and that day came. :D

[Gerald D]

After grinding those rails, are there any tips you could pass on to the folk that are nervous about doing it?

Good videos and pics!

[kn6398]

Thank-you for the compliment.

What work really well for me was using a good grinder and changing out the disk often for faster grinding. Change out the disk once the leading edge of the disk wear out, you will notice the spark will start to spark in the middle of the disk instead of the leading edge. At that moment the disk will glaze and grinding will be slooow. I read in the forum someone mentioned to adjust the front slightly lower than the back to keep the leading edge in contact with rail when that happen but it was more convenience for me just to change out to a new disk. I use two discs for one rail. The first two short rails it took me all day because I was afraid I might push the grinder to hard. I use the back and forward motion but once I got comfortable I just lightly push the grinder forward without the backward motion for about a foot and pause for a couple of second and continue on forward. It seems to grind faster that way. On my last rail in the video my confidence level was really high I just lightly push the grinder forward without stopping and it took me 8 minute to grind down one side of a 10ft of 12ft rail. I stopped in the video because the disk was wearing out and it was getting dark and I didn’t want to disturb the neighborhood. The grinder was really hot when I stopped if I had used one of the cheap Harbor Freight grinder I would of burn it again. If I can do this anybody can too.

[kn6398]

Last night I ordered 4 G203V –Vaccum version, not knowing what Vaccum version is but from the information below it sound like if the motor is not moving it switch to standby where there will be no current to the motor avoiding heat. But if their no current to the motor would the motor allow to spin freely like if there is no power to it. If this is the case would that be a problem for the Z motor because the heavy router would fall down to the table. Am I way off?
I hope I didn’t order the wrong version.


• The G203V is available in a G203V-Vacuum version as well. This changes the auto current standby to 0% as opposed to 70%, allowing it to operate in a vacuum environment with minimal heating problems.

[Gerald D]

Thanks for those grinding tips.

Sorry Kray, but that vacuum Gecko will not work for a CNC router. If you are cutting out cabinet doors for example, one axis is moving while the other two have to hold their position firmly to resist the cutter forces. Try to change your order before they ship.

[kn6398]

I didn't get much done today only drilled the cross beams for the board support. I still need to to enlarge the holes to 1/2 on both end of each beams for bolt on to the main beams.

[kn6398]

I'm in luck today I got an email from Gecko this morning asking me for my credit card expiration date seem I forgot to included when I ordered last night. :):):)

[kn6398]

I finally had some time working on the table, while welding the side rail cross tube I forgot to leave enough room for the cross beam:eek::eek:, Oh well I cut it out and reweld it tomorrow. I also installed some rubber casters for ease of moving around the garage. I can’t wait to get the table done so I can start working on the electronic parts.

[Gerald D]

Dang, that foul between the cross-support channel and the diagonal brace also caught me originally. Hence this note on drawing 1010310W:

2741

My original "fix" was to cut a piece out of the cross-support. That part of the cross-support does nothing for its strength.

[Alan_c]

If you cut angles on the ends of the cross rails, as indicated on the drawings, it may well avoid hitting that tube, try that first before cutting the welds loose.

[kn6398]

Your both right if I cut the cross beam at an angle there is plenty of room left without hitting the tube. I feel stupid now its a simpy fix why didn't I think of that.

THANKS

[Kobus_Joubert]

I see you also have a BIG gap between the sides. When Gerald visited me he noticed it also. I worked on the drawings and wanted a table that can do a standard small sheet....2.44 x 1.22.....I took the 1.22 and rounded it to 1.5 and then plugged this into the Y+ calculation....the result...lot's and lot's of space on the sides.

[kn6398]

Cutting the end angle worked out great still had 1/4 inch gap left.

Kobus,
I add and extra foot just in case I ever decide to add and indexer or tool changer later in the future but didn't realize the gap will be that big though.

[domino11]

Kray,
If you want the extra space for an indexer, wouldnt you want all the extra space on one side? Your spoilboard looks like it is centered on the table?
Table is looking really good though.

[kn6398]

Yes, but I'm not planning the indexer anytime soon it will be awhile, when that time come I will replace the spoilerboard and move it to one side.

[kn6398]

Here are some progress on my table. I got the table leveled and fixed my twisted gantry following the direction on this thread. (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663)
I twisted a little two much but will be it later.

[kn6398]

I got some goodies arrived..
-Cable chain
-203V gecko driver (standard)
-122 PMDX
-495VA, 30VAC toroidal by ULVECO for $35 at electronic surplus
-24”x25”x9.5” Hoffman Enclosure Type 4.12.CSA E used on EBAY for $65
I have not pick up the box yet. I’m still waiting for some kind of sale for the Oriental Motor.

[Gerald D]

Good seeing the gantry and car on top!

[kn6398]

Yes, she is a beauty also very big
taken up half of my garage.

[kn6398]

OK I got most of my power supplies components. According to the spreadsheet attached, calculation using motor PK296A2A-SG7.2 wiring half-coil I need a 27.71 VAC transformer and 24,495uf capacitor. I got a 30VAC transformer and 680,000uf capacitor instead. I know an oversize capacitor is OK but this one is double the reqired size. Its BIG :eek: Will this be OK or sholud I find a smaller value capacitor? And another thing the guy at the electronic store insisted that I use an external fuse at least 3A for the transformer. Is that right?? That sound kinda low.

[Gerald D]

That capacitor is an overkill. While the theory says it is going to do a brilliant job of smoothing out the ripples, I wouldn't want that thing in my control box. . . .
- takes long to charge up: might blow the transformer fuse on switch on.
- takes long to discharge: might burn some wires if you are fiddling around there.
- makes a huge bang (and mess) if you wire it wrong.

A capacitor can also be very big if it is rated for a too lowhigh voltage. You need to be getting a capacitor rated about 10% above the DC voltage you plan to use.

One fan is more than enough.

[domino11]

I need a 27.71 VAC transformer and 24,495uf capacitor. I got a 30VAC transformer and 680,000uf capacitor instead. I know an oversize capacitor is OK but this one is double the reqired size.

Kray,
680,000 uF is 28 times larger! I think from the size in the picture that the capacitor you are using is probably a 68,000 uF? If that is the case I would not worry about using it. The 680,000 would be a welder as Gerald states if you made a mistake! Check that value again. Also as Gerald states make sure that the voltage is at Least 10% or more higher. Higher voltage is not a problem. :)

[kn6398]

OK I added to many zero it 68,000 uF not 680,000 uF and it rated at 75V.

[domino11]

Kray,
I would not worry about using that capacitor at all. You will have about 43 volts DC on it after rectification, and it should filter that supply nicely. :)

[Gerald D]

On paper, that capacitor is okay. I am just not used to seeing them bigger than the transformer!

[domino11]

Gerald,
The working voltage being 75V DC makes for a larger capacitor also, if it were a 50V capacitor it would be at least 33 per cent smaller. Also higher grade capacitors and higher temp rated capacitors are usually larger as well. I have worked with capacitor banks over 1F at 160VDC. That really makes a spark when you slip with a wrench, one guy at my work know for sure! :eek:

[Gerald D]

There is one thing worse than capacitor banks. . . . battery banks. . . . . as found in the bottom of submarines . . . exactly the place where things like to fall. . . and get vaporised. The other thing I remember of those huge DC currents is that screening the cables helps nought. A main battery cable running past a TV screen would suck the picture right off the edge. Hey, we are messing up Kray's thread.

[kn6398]

OK, it good to know I can use the capacitor. The problem with going into those surplus stores is you can't get exactly what you want. The value will neither be too small or too big. About the fan I couldn't resist 50% on the second one since I already drilled the holes I mine well use it. I'm not really gaining any free space if I take one out.

[kn6398]

3887

OK, it been awhile I haven't posted any update. But to continue on where I left off, the enclosure I bought from EBAY never went through. Someone stole it from their ware house so I never gotten the box but I did get my refund back though. I went to Lowes and bought one, BIG mistake it was not deep enough.

3888

3889

Went back to EBAY and got me the proper enclosure 20x24x8. This one was big and had plenty of room. I got it wired up to test the motors and E-STOP. Here is short clip showing the motors spinning and verifying the E-STOP work (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXACFkEziVc&feature=channel_page). Notice that when I press the E-stop the PMDX still has power that because I connected to the wall outlet just for testing purpose.

I attached the schematic if anyone see anything odd please let me know. The schematic is basically the same as Gerald's plan.

3890

3891

I also got the table painted and wired just need to finish mounting the control panel to the wall and I should be ready to cut in a couple of days.

[Gerald D]

Gee Kray, we last saw you a week before Xmas and look what you have done since! Well done! :)

[javeria]

wow - thats a surprise :)

hmm when will I finish mine :(

Kray is that a bit darker blue - or am I color blind. :D

[Gerald D]

That is ShopBot's "Cobalt" blue! :D

[kn6398]

Yep, it call deep blue. I got it at Oreilly auto part they had only one kind of blue and they don't mix paint to your choice.

[kn6398]

It does look like the shopbot blue, sorry didn't pay attention to the color..

[kn6398]

The control box is completed and it move!!!

3898
3899
3901
3900

I'm waiting for my router bracket from K2 CNC and some bits from Mcaster. I should be cutting by the end of the week.

I hooked up my SSR to pin 14 on thd PMDX to turn on the router and set it in MACH3 as output. So do I have to write some kind of macro to tell Mach3 to send a signal to activate the SSR?

[kn6398]

I notice that all my description texts on the drawing for the gecko and the PMDX were missing. For some reason the solid yellow color on top hidden the text. Here is another copy with the missing text.
3902

[Gerald D]

Well done!

Connecting the SSR is discussed here:
Solid State Relay (SSR) for switching Router under control of Mach3 (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290)

No macro needed. You put a an M3 or M4 command in your g-code file to turn the router on, and the M5 command to turn it off.

Obviously your Ports and Pins, Spindle Setup must be set up correctly for the relay on the correct port number.

[Gerald D]

Had a very quick look at your schematic;

- Your ssr is wired wrong. The "coil" and "contacts" are reversed with each other. The "contacts" need to be in the router's mains circuit.

- A 25amp fuse for the pushbuttons? that's too big!

- there could be more . . . . .

[kn6398]

OK, I wired it right just how Mike described in the post I just drew it up wrong. The 25A fuse is for the AC line Black coming into the disconnect switch and the 3A is for the push button, again I drew it wrong but wired correctly. Revised schematic attached. OK, M3 and M4 to turn on and M5 to turn off got it.. Thanks
3906

[kn6398]

OK typo again it 14A on the AC line..

[Gerald D]

1 amp is more than enough. 14 Amp will not protect the thin wires to the switches.