Mexico's 1st Mechmate Finally is cutting #55 - Obregon, Mexico [Archive]

Conrado_Navarro

Mon 27 October 2008, 18:48

Hi
After a few reading in this forum, i have decided that, I will go for The building a MechMate.
I have already got the plans, and visited my local Steel Vendors
and I can not get the exact steel profiles
Like :
76x78x 7 kg/m channel (10 10 302 D A ) I have 101.6x40x 6.70kg/m
180x70x21 kg/m Channel ( 10 10 322 S A) 203.2x59x 20.46 Kg/m

I hope this changes be ok

All Opinion will be welcome an appreciated!!

Gerald D

Mon 27 October 2008, 21:00

Hi Conrado, welcome, and good luck with your build!

Those alternative sizes are just great - I wish I had them here!

sailfl

Mon 27 October 2008, 21:20

Conrado,

Welcome and have fun with your build. You will appreciate Joe's laser cut parts when you get them.

Conrado_Navarro

Mon 03 November 2008, 13:48

Last weekend, I started to cut and weld the table
pictures will be posted soon

kanankeban

Thu 20 November 2008, 19:51

Hi Conrado,
Im starting also to build, I already have Joe´s laser cut parts, got them last may, but waited long to start, Im just making some room to start. I Live in Monterrey,and you? Where are you getting from does steel profiles?
Regards,
Hector

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 21 November 2008, 08:40

kanankeban

Sat 22 November 2008, 01:20

Hi Hector
I got my steel profiles from local vendors, as you can see, at the beginning of my thread, they are no exact match but will work fine, I almost done with the table.
Im still don`t have the laser cut parts, problems with my paypal acount, but almost done. (sorry Joe)
Im from Obregon, Sonora, Im Civil Engineer, I work on the mechmate only weekends.
Glad to Know another "paisa" in this forum

Best Regards

Hi Again Conrado,
I mean the Channels from what manufacturer, I have checked with villacero, ahmsa, and others and I can´t match those specs in the profiles...could you check for me with your vendor of who´s that steel from, I like does profiles you got...by the way Im an architect...same thing just in weekends...
I´ll send you my email...add me to your messenger list, maybe we can chat later, and for sure help each other in this endevour...:)

kanankeban

Sat 22 November 2008, 01:23

Conrado,
could not send you...a pm with my email, something is configured from you not to receive emails or pm.

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 22 November 2008, 08:30

Hector:
I got you on my messenger, wilL be in touch for numerous issues related to our Background (Building) and of course MECHMATE

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 16 January 2009, 17:54

Table is done, pmx122 card arrived, geckos, in transit
Sorry I have few posts, and no pictures, but I only have one day at a week, I hope to post some pictures soon.
Since now I have no questions, because someone else already did it in this forum and is easy to look around for answers.
Again Thanks Gerald and friends

sailfl

Fri 16 January 2009, 18:57

Conrado,

You are making good progress. Please post some pictures.

Gerald D

Fri 16 January 2009, 22:22

Thanks for the news Conrado.

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 31 January 2009, 12:34

Hello :
I got a question about my rack, I have a 16 pitch rack is it good for my mechmate?
I ´ve read that a pitch less than 20 the travel become rought
should I change it?

Gerald D

Sat 31 January 2009, 12:46

How wide and tall is that 16 pitch rack? Are you using direct-drive or geared motors? What ratio?

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 31 January 2009, 17:54

hello Gerald :
I have 5/16"x5/16 " 16 pitch (store mistake I asked for 1/2"x1/2" 20 pitch) but Im looking to use what I have, is this ok?
Im planing to use Geared Motors 7:2 from oriental motors (PK296a2a-sg7.2)

Gerald D

Sat 31 January 2009, 18:30

It will work, but you will have more wear than those of us with 1/2" wide racks. Use 24 tooth pinions with 16 pitch to get exactly the same performance as 30 tooth pinions with 20 pitch.

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 31 January 2009, 18:41

Thanks Gerald :
I already have 30 tooth pinions with a 3/4" face
and my mechmate will be only for hobby, not heavy use

I appreciate your help
if you need something from this side of the World I will be glad to help

Conrado_Navarro

Sun 15 February 2009, 09:03

Hello:
I´m planning to buy the power supply from antek, and my choice would be the
PS-6N56N17R5 (see the link , http://www.antekinc.com/PS-6N56R.pdf).
my motors are PK296a2a-sg7.2 from oriental driven by pmx122 card and G203V geckodrives.

Opinions will be appreciated.

Richards

Sun 15 February 2009, 10:06

I would choose a 35V power supply and wire the motors bipolar half-coil (Black/Yellow wires on the A coil and Red/White wires on the B coil). The AnTek PS-5N35 or the PS-5N39 would be a closer match.

The PMDX-122 requires more than 5VDC. This section from the manual might clarify the power requirements of the PMDX-122:

4.7 Power Supply Connector (J11)
Connector J11 is used to provide +7 to +12 VDC or 6 to 9 VAC power to the PMDX-122. This connector is a standard 2.1mm diameter coaxial power connector that is compatible with many wall-mounted power packs.

If you choose to wire the motors Bipolar Series (Black/Green wires on the A coil and Red/Blue wires on the B coil), you should use a 70VDC power supply that gives about 8A such as the AnTek PS-6N70R12.

Conrado_Navarro

Sun 15 February 2009, 10:55

Thanks Mike
I appreciatte your comment

Conrado_Navarro

Tue 07 July 2009, 20:12

Hello
I`m working in the kitchen table project
I have everything wired, conected, but motors dont move
got green light at the pmdx 122, and geckos too,(none flashing), no red lights
measured dc volts from "common" to "direction" at the G203V
had a reading of 2.2 V.
measured dc volts from pmdx 122 transformer supply and got 10.1V
measured dc volts from gecko 203v toroidal transformer and got 91.2 V

Motors when "on" stuck, and "off" go free again, no warming, or sound
(wired A black, A- green, B red, B- blue,...yellow free, .....white free)

the G203V troubleshooting flow diagram says, controler is not supplying the correct command voltage level to the G203V, how to solve it?

Richards

Tue 07 July 2009, 20:32

The MAXIMUM voltage for a Gecko G203v is 80VDC. The 91.2V is too high for that device. The G203v is tested at 100VDC, but it will eventually fail when the voltages are over 80V - especially when you have a sudden unexpected surge.

The 2.2 V on the on the control lines is too low. The G203v is rated at 2.5V to 5V. I am surprised that you're getting that reading from the PMDX-122. That break-out-board should be able to give you about 5V on the control lines.

Try reading the +5V and Ground lines on the PMDX-122. I'm not at the shop, so I can't tell you which pins to check, but one of the Jumpers (J8, if I remember correctly, has a +5V screw-in terminal and a Ground terminal). If you don't have 5V across those two points, there is a good chance that the D1 diode (small surface mounted device that is very close to the external DC input terminal) has fried. That happened to me. I had mistakenly used too high of a DC voltage to feed the PMDX-122 and blew out that diode. I replaced the surface-mount device with a standard 1N4007 device, so that will never happen again.

In any case, if you really have +5V on the J8 terminal block, then we'll have to explore other possibilities that may be causing the 2.2V on the control lines. (Do you have the PMDX-122 jumpered correctly to produce a COMMON GROUND for the G203v? PMDX-122 JP1, bottom two positions for the G203v, Top two positions for the G201 and G202 devices.)

Conrado_Navarro

Tue 07 July 2009, 20:58

Hi Mike, thanks for answer

The jumper are exactly as the pmdx 122 manual for geckos, except for the jumper JP1, is hooked at the bottom two pins.

the power supply is rated for 80 Vdc, and as you know is givin me 91 Vdc, any sugestions to solve it?.( I can get 45 Dvc, i have ++0-- terminals actual is + - conected and are giving 91 DVC if i conect +0 or -0 i got 45 DVC

I checked the J8 and ground and got 10.1 V.

Conrado_Navarro

Tue 07 July 2009, 22:13

hello again
I had an error at reading voltaje.
I read fron j8 to ground exactly 5 v, from my power supply 41 VDC
that seems right to me, but from "commom" to "direction" is 1.2V so i think I you are right. I must fried the D1 diode, I will check tomorrow
and I will keep posting.
Thank you

Richards

Wed 08 July 2009, 09:48

The D1 diode is used to convert A.C. half-wave D.C. so that the on-board 5VDC regulator can work. It is only needed when you use A.C.

If you have 5VDC on J8, then the PMDX-122 board is able to convert your voltage to 5V, and everything should work properly.

Try disconnecting the G203v stepper drivers from the PMDX board, then read pins 1 and 3 on J1, J2, J3 and J4. You should have about 5V. (Be sure that you try both CW and CCW. At one setting, you will have 0V. At the other setting, you should have about 5V.)

The power supply may have to be changed with another. You need an A.C. transformer that gives you 55VAC or less. After its conversion to DC, you will get a little less than 80VDC. I use a 50VAC toroidal transformer to get 70VDC, which is as high as I go so that the power supply can withstand the occasional high voltage days that the power company provides from time to time.

Gerald D

Wed 08 July 2009, 09:56

Conrado, did you get your power supply from Antek, and did Antek send you the wrong specification?

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 08 July 2009, 10:16

yes I got from antek, the power supply is rated at 38 DVC, now Im geting 42 DVC. (PS-5N38)

but guess what?, D1 is missing! , the rest of the diodes are present and conected, must be lost by handling in excess :( .

Now if I can get a replacement, what is the specifications to order?

Richards

Wed 08 July 2009, 16:12

Conrado,
Having an unregulated power supply deliver more or less voltage than expected is quite common. AnTek lists the voltage based on 115 VAC or 230 VAC input voltage. If your voltage is more or less than either 115V or 240V, the output will also be different. Assuming that the toroidal transformer was built with the correct number of turns, if you're getting about 10% higher output than expected, you might be getting about 10% more line voltage than expected. (It's not uncommon where I live to have 120VAC to 124VAC instead of 115VAC.)

By removing a few turns of wire from the SECONDARY windings (one turn at a time), you will be able to fine-tune the transformer. I've never had to do that, but others do it regularly to get exactly the output voltage that they want. Work slowly and be sure to let the capacitor(s) drain after you turn off the power supply. Things can get a little complicated because many transformers have two outputs - so that you can get half the rated voltage at 2X the current. If your transformer has two outputs, you should take equal numbers of turns off each output so that the two outputs are still matched in output voltage.

If the PMDX-122 is missing the D1 diode, you probably should notify PMDX and ask for instructions. The D1 diode is a surface-mount device, so it may not be easily available. (Where I live, I would have to order it from Digi-Key or some other parts store. Local suppliers don't handle surface-mount components unless I'm willing to order the minimum quantity - which is usually at least 1,000 parts.)

If you use a DC supply to power the PMDX board and IF you solder in a jumper wire in place of the D1 diode, the on-board 5V regulator will function properly; HOWEVER, that fix will only work with a DC power supply. If you use an AC power supply, the 5VDC regulator will be destroyed. The purpose of the D1 diode is to clip (remove) the negative AC voltage that is present with an AC power supply. It only passes the positive portion of the sine wave. That half-wave is compatible with the 5VDC regulator.

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 08 July 2009, 17:36

Hello Mike:
My supply here is 125V to 127V, so its consistent with the antek power supply I have. for the PMDX122 I use a 9V rated transformer.

I got a D1 diode but R31 and R32 are missing too. My suspect is that I blew hot air accidentally when wiring.
I will give a last effort to get my pmdx work properly, if not I will order another PMDX122.
Im able to get D1, R31 and R32 form another circuit board.
Can anyone send me a close up picture for the PMDX122, I want to check the R31 and R32 values.

Richards

Wed 08 July 2009, 20:20

Conrado,

R31 and R32 are NOT installed on either of the two PMDX-122 boards that I have.

If you think that you may have unsoldered D1 somehow, be sure to check the entire board with a good magnifying glass to verify that the diode did not fall across some other trace. (That's one thing that I really, really hate about surface-mount devices. They are so small that it's easy to miss a 'bridged' connection.)

Gerald D

Wed 08 July 2009, 21:03

Conrado, I would first use the 42VDC for the PK296a2a-sg7.2 motors. If they get too hot to your liking, you can set the Gecko currents a bit lower.

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 08 July 2009, 22:22

Ok Mike, thats why I wanted a pciture of the PMDX 122, to check against mine.

Thanks G. Ill check... so far, no warmig at all

Gerald D

Wed 08 July 2009, 22:53

The G203V drives are very good at keeping the motors cool while they are not doing any work. The real heat comes when the motors have worked at their current limits during high speed and high load (taking a long hard cut on a very long table).

Other brands of drives, and older Geckodrive versions, would sometimes create the most heat when the motors simply stand still. With the more intelligent drives, it is now more difficult to test when the voltage (or current) settings are too high. I think it is okay if your motors get hot for some heavy jobs - but most of the time they will just be standing still and cooling down (if they have a G203V drive).

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 08 July 2009, 23:11

Gerald/Mike

I reinstalled the PMDX122, its the same, J8 to ground 5V, Step to common 1.3V
check the geckos step to common 1.3V, Power to Ground 42 V,
motors cool, cant move by hand while connected, MACH3 running but no movement.

All the ligths are steady green

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 08 July 2009, 23:24

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5177&stc=1&d=1247116997

Gerald D

Wed 08 July 2009, 23:57

Conrado, I believe you need to set up some more in Mach3's Ports & Pins.

When you use your keyboard cursor keys to move left/right or up/down, the green leds for Direction should go on and off.

Have a look at:

Cannot get motor to turn - Mach Ports & Pins setup (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737)

Motors won't turn after the setting up - PMDX-122 jumpers incorrect (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1085)

Stepper motor refuses to turn - Wiring & jumper errors (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1687)

sailfl

Thu 09 July 2009, 01:04

Gerald / Conrado,

It has been some time since I wired my machine but I think I see another problem. There are 4 Geckos, X1, X2, Y, Z but yet you are using J1, J2, J3, J4. I think X1 and X2 should both be going to J1?!

Gerald D

Thu 09 July 2009, 05:01

Nils, it doesn't make much difference either way, depends on whether one has used the "Slave" setting in Mach3 or not. If you look at our control box, you would see that we have also wired like Conrado, and used the Slave.

Sean left J4 open on yours for adding an indexer later, but then you are not using the Slave.

Both approaches work okay.

Conrado's problems were solved - all the related posts were moved to the Troubleshooting forum at:
Motors do not turn - Ports & Pins setting for charge pump (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1914)

Conrado_Navarro

Tue 04 August 2009, 16:30

Hello.
I´m finishing the Z slide. but its almost imposible due the temperature this summer, very often is above 50 degrees celsius (Fahrenheit (http://www.convertworld.com/es/temperatura/Fahrenheit.html) 122).
Workshop needs to modify because where I have the table the cover is missing.

Will post progress later.

sailfl

Wed 05 August 2009, 01:45

Conrado,

Great progress.

I thought it was hot in my shop when it is in high 90s. With the humidity it does feel hotter but 122 - that is hot.

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 05 August 2009, 07:49

yes, I only work in my workshop only half hour at the time. and go back to learn cad-cam software. and of course read every post in the mechmate site.

best regards Nils

kanankeban

Wed 05 August 2009, 12:24

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 11 September 2009, 20:34

Gerald and company.
the beast is almost finished.
I have one question. is it right to connect the router direct to the pmdx 122, J7 relay control?
it is rated at 10A at 120V, and my router is 8A 120V rated?.

Gerald D

Fri 11 September 2009, 21:48

Conrado, in theory it is okay.

However, you can expect that relay to last maybe a year before it burns and then you will have to find a way of replacing it. That is why we prefer to switch the big current in a separate relay - we use the PMDX relay to switch the separate relay

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 12 September 2009, 07:46

Thank you!!
Got it. its a very good reason to use a heavy duty relay.
soon this weekend. a mechmate in Mexico will be alive!!

Best regards!

sailfl

Sat 12 September 2009, 07:57

Conrado,

Sounds great... Look forward to seeing some pictures.

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 12 September 2009, 09:59

Nils.
Sorry for not posting pictures till now. but soon....soon!!

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 16 September 2009, 18:34

Robert M

Wed 16 September 2009, 19:54

Hey Conrado, felicitación ;)
No Oscar...Of course not, better yet...You won huge pride and self reward....ALOT BETTER than any celebrity’s trophy :D
Great to see ya’ll excited dude...Now, show time…. WHERE….ARE…THOSE…PHOTOS :confused:
Surly I speak for Everybody else, we needs to see this buddy.
Amicalement, Robert ;)

sailfl

Wed 16 September 2009, 19:59

Conrado,

Slap some logos on the thing so you can get a number. Congratulations. If you gained some knowledge from my post good. Now, how about posting some pictures.

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 16 September 2009, 21:56

Yea guys you surely deserve photos!!!, cable chain is missing, waste board, and labor quality in not the best... but... cutting quality is wort at least 10,000 dlls. (similar sizes tables in market & less cutting area and etc).

thanks for your comments!

Gerald D

Wed 16 September 2009, 22:59

Fantastic Conrado!

Because of all the silly movies at the cinema, I have this picture of a guy with a big hat dancing on a table! :D

kanankeban

Thu 17 September 2009, 14:19

Mexico's 1st Mechmate Finally is cutting!!!

only need fine tunning, but it surely cut. Its not the most beutiful MM but I made it myself. whit zero background. less money and little time.

Thanks Gerald, Mike, Nills. and all who post their troubles because of them, I made it!!
gee I fell like I win the Oscar.. hahaha.

Again. Thanks!!!

Hey, Congratulations, thought mine was going to be the first one in Mexico, but I havent invest time lately on the construction, I can say that is already painted with a beautifull sail blue color., just need motors&gears and time to build the control box and thats it...Well second is good also...

jehayes

Thu 17 September 2009, 15:24

Conrado: Felicitaciones en su consumacion. Ganaste el premio! Joe

Conrado_Navarro

Tue 27 October 2009, 19:22

my mechmate still goig strong, the machine does exactly what must do
.
tomorrow I will cut some kayak parts, Im plannin to take photos to show you guys.
still missing cable chain, and beauty work,etc. but works prrrfct.

Gerald D

Tue 27 October 2009, 22:37

I am glad (but not surprised) that you are still a happy man! :)

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 28 October 2009, 12:23

Hello:
Im posting a few pics of my machine, still working on it

6845
6846
6847
6848
this is my supervisor

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 30 October 2009, 09:01

Hello

6855
this is an image of the kayak im machining.
I have the file in solidworks.
Work is comming by itself, Yesterday an Aluminium Sign and a foam fish in 3d, today a wood carving.
Kayak is a work in progress.

cheers

bradyaero

Fri 30 October 2009, 09:11

Nice work Conrado,

Its great to see other mold makers on the forums!

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 30 October 2009, 10:32

thanks Greg
Im New to everything, but I like to try.

sailfl

Fri 30 October 2009, 17:38

Conrado,

What are you going to cut the Kayak out of?

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 30 October 2009, 18:18

Hi nils
i will be foam, i divided the kayak in 6 parts to fit in
later they will be glued, and covered with fiber.

isladelobos

Sat 31 October 2009, 02:07

the finish results from this method not are very smooth.
Normally, the fiber is copied from a real kayak up and down sides and next glue the sides.

Aunque no está mal como experiencia para otras aplicaciones, como crear mapas en relieve sobre Poliestireno expandido (foam), de zonas geográficas.

¿Que tipo de foam utilizaras?

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 31 October 2009, 07:54

Poliestireno expandido.
ademas de un acabado de lija y bondo automotivo y pintura

normand blais

Wed 04 November 2009, 05:35

Hi Conrado, great MM .You might try this link for 3d fish.

http://mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1200

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 04 November 2009, 07:12

Thank you, I ´ve already downloaded some files.

Conrado_Navarro

Thu 18 March 2010, 16:19

Hello,
my MECHMATE still going strong and reliable, Can I get a Serial Number??
Cutting area 2400 mm x 2000 mm , cutting device Router, .

planing to add aditional axis.

here are some pics

8929
8930
8931
8932
8933

best regards!!.

sailfl

Thu 18 March 2010, 18:01

Conrado,

How about a close-up of the cat, dog and + sign?

Conrado_Navarro

Thu 18 March 2010, 18:07

sure, those are for my Vet sister, I have no pictures of most of the work I´ve done, but it goes from Signs, cutting stainless steel, and the last one was a stich&glue kayak .

MetalHead

Thu 18 March 2010, 19:31

Looks Well used for sure!!!! You get #55 Congrats!!!!

Conrado_Navarro

Thu 18 March 2010, 19:40

yeahhhhhhhhhh!!!

bolingerbe

Thu 18 March 2010, 19:52

Congratulations #55 from #54

jhiggins7

Thu 18 March 2010, 20:44

Conrado,

Congratulations on completing your MechMate and on Serial #55.

Here is the Updated Builder's Log (http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AttqjIPMBEXKcExveGc4d3U0V25zQmMyX1U1eUVhU Xc&hl=en).

Please review your entry and let me know any changes you want to make.

Gerald D

Thu 18 March 2010, 23:20

Well done Conrado! I like your economical cable chains.

Conrado_Navarro

Thu 18 March 2010, 23:37

they are ¨not definitive" haha

Conrado_Navarro

Thu 18 March 2010, 23:40

any one who has a "spare" cable chain let me know.
my budget is limited.

cheeers!

KenC

Fri 19 March 2010, 02:07

Congrats Conrado #55! I admire your patient & perseverance to complete the machine.
Love your "cable chain" too. How about placing a fixed cable tray or board along the cable for the belt to rest on?

sailfl

Fri 19 March 2010, 05:42

Conrado,

Congratulations on the #55 and completing you machine. Welcome to the club.

domino11

Fri 19 March 2010, 10:50

Congratulations Conrado!

Robert M

Fri 19 March 2010, 10:57

Hey !! This is great amigo ;)
You must be a V-happy man, plus the hole week-end to tune & play with the new “toy” :D
I must say I envy you as I was hoping to get that n°55…. There’ always other ones :rolleyes:
Well, congratulation and hope all will be fine.

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 19 March 2010, 11:08

well.. I have to say, my MECHMATE is working long time ago, just wanted No 55.
got the stikers. and wait.

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 19 March 2010, 11:12

Every Work is better than the last one, the key is planning very carefully each project. Now I can do Everything I Imagine.

PEU

Fri 19 March 2010, 11:36

Felicitaciones Conrado!

jehayes

Fri 19 March 2010, 11:57

Well done, Conrado. Como esta todo en Obregon ahora? Jose #53

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 19 March 2010, 13:27

Todo esta de maravilla, el clima esta, bien, aunque ya empieza el calor
pero con los paseos en kayak sera una bendicion.
Ahh y las mujeres son bellisimas aqui!!!

jehayes

Fri 19 March 2010, 17:49

Pero no son como las tapatias in Guadalajara!

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 19 March 2010, 19:48

puees te dire!!, he andado por todos lados, y no me muevo de aqui

ademas... nos hacen caso a los feos!!!

saludos

jehayes

Sat 20 March 2010, 22:50

Hey !! This is great amigo ;)
... I was hoping to get that n°55…. There’ always other ones

Robert: I was bummed when I got pipped at the post for #52 until I realized that #53 is a prime number. I think all MM's with prime serial numbers should be painted with a gold racing stripe.:D The next prime in the series is 59. http://www.mathsisfun.com/prime_numbers.html

Joe

KenC

Sun 21 March 2010, 00:09

As a Chines I'm hoping for #60, #63, #66 & #68 which are all auspicious numbers.
BUT 69 would top it all even though its not an auspicious number...

javeria

Sun 21 March 2010, 02:01

69......;):p

Robert M

Sun 21 March 2010, 05:37

I’m half kidding.....
Numbers nor serial do not much matters to me, as long as a I’m / can contribute to this group that help me when I was in need !!
Joe, although thanks anyway for this eye opener, as I never thought of this “prime number” thing. 55 was more a personnel thing than any numerical / number sense !
BUT must say…… 69….mmmm….got to like this one :D
;)

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 24 December 2010, 19:10

10907

now its time to upgrade my 3 hp router
to a 3 kw spindle
that´s what santa bring to me :d
im planing to ad a 5th axis for full 3d (lathe)

Red_boards

Sat 25 December 2010, 05:40

Looking forward to your posts on the transition because that's the path I will follow in the future and your information will be very helpful

bradm

Sat 25 December 2010, 06:34

I used my router to cut the mounts for my spindle from 1/2" aluminum - with lots of passes. You might be able to do the same.

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 25 December 2010, 08:55

Hey brad :
if you have the cutting file I will apreciatte if you post it or send

Red:
there is a lot of information already here, but I will post all the process

Merry xmas!!

jehayes

Sat 25 December 2010, 10:15

Conrado: Felice Navidad y propsero ano nuevo.

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 25 December 2010, 12:27

Gracias.. mis mejores deseos para esta comunidad
donde todos nos ayudamos a construir una gran herramienta
de hobby o de trabajos

Felices fiestas
happy Holidays

bradm

Sat 25 December 2010, 19:44

I didn't keep the toolpaths, but I think this is the drawing that I converted.
It should at least give you an idea for designs.

I recall taking off 0.05" per pass, so it was 11 passes, don't recall the feed rate.

10909

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 25 December 2010, 20:05

Thank You Brad !!

Conrado_Navarro

Mon 07 March 2011, 18:51

Today I ran a spindle test, everything works fine, there is a huge difference between the noisy router and the New Chinese 3 Kw Spindle.
Tomorrow I will rearrange cables and reconect everything in its place
Next step.. 4th Axis.

Conrado_Navarro

Tue 15 November 2011, 11:04

Hello Friends :
upgrading to 4 axis is done,
Installing, New echain done
New rails...in progress
Gas spring...done
New painting.... in progress
Photos..... Soon

:)

Best regards

domino11

Tue 15 November 2011, 21:02

Good to hear from you Conrado! Cant wait to see your pics.
:)

Conrado_Navarro

Wed 30 November 2011, 13:16

Hello :
Now my Mechmate is Red (was Blue),
here some pics of little upgrades

Cheers

12728

12729

12730

12731

kanankeban

Tue 06 December 2011, 17:50

Kiuvo,
Oye con que tornillos montaste los motores a las placas? Con tornillo con cabeza conica? Porque los estaba tratando de montar con los tornillos que venian con los motores y las cabezas topan con los carros, cierto?
Saludos,
Hector

Conrado_Navarro

Thu 08 December 2011, 17:38

Los compre aparte, son de rosca fina de los de cabeza para llave allen

kanankeban

Thu 08 December 2011, 17:52

Los compre aparte, son de rosca fina de los de cabeza para llave allen
Los puse conicos...o sea con una punta conica avellane y la cabeza queda lisa o sea no sobresale de la placa de sujecion del motor y listo...

Otra preguntilla...como solucionaste los del amortiguador del eje Z, donde lo conseguiste?

Saludos...
Hector

Conrado_Navarro

Fri 09 December 2011, 09:29

Si, fui a un deshuesadero de carros y compre uno por 150 pesos, ahi mismo lo probe empujandolo a mano y con eso, revise, el largo del piston, y lo monte.
si los quieres nuevos, los puedes conseguir en autozone, pero fijate bien que no esten muy duros.

Saludos

kanankeban

Mon 19 December 2011, 19:51

Necesito tu ayuda tendras un diagrama de como conectar los motores a los geckos...?

Conrado_Navarro

Sat 24 December 2011, 14:24

Ps ya Quedo Hector, hasta ya vi tu primer corte, muy bien felicidades

jehayes

Sat 24 December 2011, 22:33

Conrado y todos nuestros amigos en Mexico! Felice Navidad y Prospero Ano Nuevo

albertoslayer

Sun 25 December 2011, 04:38

kanankeban

Sun 25 December 2011, 16:47

Que tal Conrado y Hector, me da gusto ver que mas gente de México esta fabricando la mechmate, yo soy de Cd. Victoria Tamaulipas, y me faltan algunas cosas para terminar la mia, pero voy a retomar el proyecto ahora que hay un poco de dinero y voy a empezar a subir fotos para que me den su opinión, quisiera preguntarles donde mandaron cortar el kit de piezas del gantry y todas esas piezas que van cortadas a laser y dobladas, y mas o menos en cuanto dinero les salio el trabajo, saludos!

Yo no recuerdo a quien se lo pedi, pero fue en eua, aqui enel foro ecuentras quien los tiene apara entrega inmediata, segun yo la persona que vende los valeros cuanta con los kits tambien. Busca a metalhead el lis tiene

Polder48

Sun 25 December 2011, 22:34

Spanish site?

albertoslayer

Sun 25 December 2011, 22:37

que tal hector, de la persona que dices que vende los baleros, es el de superiorbearing.com???

Conrado_Navarro

Mon 26 December 2011, 07:45

Yo se los compre a Joe, pero creo que ya no los vende, ahora, mike, el moderador del foro vende el kit completo,

kanankeban

Sat 07 January 2012, 09:45

que tal hector, de la persona que dices que vende los baleros, es el de superiorbearing.com???
Si ese...

kanankeban

Sat 07 January 2012, 09:45

Spanish site?
Spanglish :o

Conrado_Navarro

Tue 17 April 2012, 17:12

Hello everyone!
I have this problem:
Two of my motors are not working properly,
One of the X axis and Z axis.
They randomly change direction.
Disconect spindle, and every other device
to eliminate any interference.
I Will keep trying to solve it.
Any help is Welcome.

Richards

Tue 17 April 2012, 20:43

Stepper motors that are driven by Geckodrive controllers, have two signals, step and direction. If there is noise on either line, you will have severe problems.

My first impression is that you have some electrical noise on the "step" signal.

Be sure that you have properly "grounded" the machine. Check and recheck the ground connections.

Conrado_Navarro

Tue 17 April 2012, 22:09

Thank You Mike
I started to rewire the control box, its easier for me to do that than look for the cause of electrical noise..
I will post the Result
Thanks again !!
:)

smreish

Wed 18 April 2012, 04:31

I am very familiar with this problem. Things to check because this is how I found the issues on Machine #28.

Machine type 5 x10
Columbo 2.2 KW spindle w Delta B series VFD.

- what it did....when spindle was on, the z would randomly go up and down, almost oscillate. The y car did the same randomly, but not as much.

Problem(s) found.
- improperly terminate shield on the step/direction wire from the BOB to the Gecko.
- ground issue on whole machine that required the following changes:
1) add relays to outbound button interface boxes on machine to isolate BOB from stations.
2) isolated the proximity switch circuit which was the final cause of the interferance
3) added an isolation transformer for the VFD only to keep ground issue away.

All the above where required for this machine to function properly.

Good luck with your troubleshooting.

KenC

Wed 18 April 2012, 04:51

........Problem(s) found.
- improperly terminate shield on the step/direction wire from the BOB to the Gecko.
- ground issue on whole machine that required the following changes:
1) add relays to outbound button interface boxes on machine to isolate BOB from stations.
2) isolated the proximity switch circuit which was the final cause of the interferance
3) added an isolation transformer for the VFD only to keep ground issue away.

I don't get 1) what are you refering to "outbound button interface boxes"?

3) isolation transformer is one expensive solution. Ever tried connecting RFI/EMI filter? it works for me.

smreish

Wed 18 April 2012, 08:02

Ken,
The buttons on the machine that are pause, resume (green and yellow).
These buttons, when not isolated between the J header on the BOB and the outbound buttons, induced noise to the BOB. Thus, had to isolate those hard buttons from the BOB by use of a FORM C, relay contact to resolve the closure to the BOB.

Filters didn't work - Transformer was a last resort. (and I just happened to have one sitting in the corner of the shop) :)