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View Full Version : Alu console frame together and some steel cut - Cape Town, S.Africa


maxman
Mon 06 October 2008, 01:43
Construction of 2 machines - one wood router and one router / plasma combo

maxman
Mon 06 October 2008, 01:46
Hi all,

Does anyone know where that Excel spredsheet for the bill of materials is?

I saw it here somewhere, just can't find it now.....

kaartman
Mon 06 October 2008, 02:38
Hi Rory
Welcome to the Big Build, may I suggest to compile your own list of materials by working through the plans, that way you get to understand the plans and how it all fits together, and your list will have more of the one or less than the other according to the size of your table, it is part of the learning curve, that is what makes it baie lekker. You can read LEX from Empangenaai se build.

gmessler
Mon 06 October 2008, 10:53
Hello Rory,

I'll have to agree with Koning. The best thing to do is read through all the threads. There is a wealth of information here. It's a lot of reading but any question you could possibly come up with is answered somewhere in this forum.
I believe J.R. has put together a spreadsheet that may help with your bill of materials.

Don't forget the pics!:D

Alan_c
Mon 06 October 2008, 10:58
Hi Rory

Welcome (officially), what are you going to use for cutting heads and how do you plan to combine the router/plasma? With that table size I am guessing you will also be cutting ally with these machines. If anybody wants to know about machining Aluminium with a router, this is the guy to ask, he has plenty experience in that field.

spank
Mon 06 October 2008, 17:08
Dmoore removed the spreadsheet when he released the "truecnc" machine, which is of course a mechmate that is not in disguise. I have it, and am happy to forward it to you if you like.

J.R. Hatcher
Mon 06 October 2008, 17:38
The BOM for a '48" X 96" USA' is here.
http://www.msnusers.com/ncmechmate/documents.msnw?&pps=k

maxman
Tue 07 October 2008, 00:59
Hi all,

Thanks for the great welcome on the forum.

I have subsequently decided to hunt around my workshop to see what steel I already have here to make the table from, and then go from there, It seems the way most of you have gone too.

Alan, I will be using a 5.5 kw Colombo spindle for the router side and i have a Hypertherm Plasma unit that I will be employing for the plasma.

As for cutting Aluminuim, I have got quite a bit experience and will be happy to answer any questions that you might have.

A good buddy of mine makes breakout boards and torch height controllers so I will be using those for the electronic side.

My build will start in ernest on monday as i am running about like crazy at the moment.

skypoke
Tue 07 October 2008, 06:04
Hey Max,

I'm all ears on the aluminum cutting info. We have our Mech up and running with a 6' X 20' cutting area. We've built some plasma cut aluminum boats but hope to do our own cutting with router. We're running a 5 Hp Colombo. Can you make any bit/feedrate/speed suggestions for 5052, 5083, 5056 sheet from 3mm to 6mm?

Chuck

maxman
Tue 07 October 2008, 06:45
Hi Chuck.

We cut alu all day on our 2 MultiCAM machines.

We use a 2 flute "quick spiral" full carbide cutting bit, Spinnnig at between 11000 and 14500RPM. Feed rate on a 6mm dia cutter will be about 20 -25 mm per second.

BUT here is the big secret.

Use a mixture of 90% illuminating parrafin and 10% Castrol Sultex 'D' oil sprayed on with a Coolant mister ( we use a NOGA mister).

The idea is to get the chips that fly off the cutter to be as hot and as BIG as possible this gets keeps the tool cool as it is not rubbing against the material at all.

We also cut large boat kits form ali in all thickness and we have found that a 6mm (1/4") cutter to be the best trade off between speed and detail work for slots and grooves. With our 5.5KW spindle machine we cut up to 3mm ali one pass . and usally cut in 3mm (half the cutter diameter) passes.

As i said the mister is probably the most important aspect of this..

Gerald D
Tue 07 October 2008, 11:18
Use a mixture of 90% illuminating parrafin and 10% Castrol Sultex 'D' oil sprayed ..

Translated to "American":
Use a mixture of 90% kerosene and 10% Chevron/Texaco Sultex 'D' oil sprayed ..

skypoke
Tue 07 October 2008, 18:58
Ah yes, "illuminating paraffin", here I was thinking it had to come from a priest!

Maxman, thanks for the tips. I'm going to need to look into that mister setup. We've sawn many tons of alum extrusions, always used wax on our tools which is basically paraffin. The router cutting experience is a new one for us and it sounds like you've been at it for awhile.

Onsrud is pushing a "zero flute" bit for alloy, claiming as long as you cool it with an air blast the lube can be dispensed with. I'm skeptical about that but may give it a try just to see. Biggest downside for us with the use of lube is it has to be completely eliminated before mig welding. Since we put our own boats together this is significant.

Chuck

maxman
Tue 07 October 2008, 23:07
Hi Chuck,
Yes i know that 'Spiral 0' cuttting bit well they are very good at plastics and soft aluminuim (1200) but i found them too expensive and fragile for really pushing hard through "tougher" grades of material. I have actually seen one of those osrud cutters a 1/2" cutt through 2.5" Nylon one pass at close to 200mm per second.

As for cleaning the cutting fluid off the material, It is a chore ,but it sure beats back grinding all the Plasma cutter oxidation from the edges of the plates. We find a wipe down with a shop rag and then a stainless steel wire brush works ok.

maxman
Tue 07 October 2008, 23:18
For all - Link to the Lubricating mister site-

http://www.noga.com/nogaProducts.php?catID=noco

What ever you do , dont buy the "Trico" mister , The kerosene / Parrafin destroys the plastic its made from.

Gerald D
Wed 08 October 2008, 01:12
We use a kerosene based de-greaser for cleaning our metalwork. Would more commonly be known as "engine cleaner" or "paint brush cleaner". It is kerosene with an emulsifier that makes it highly water soluble. Brush/spray on, then rinse away with water. On steel, we literally see rust form within 20 minutes after doing that simple de-grease. The stuff we use is Engen's Tekprol 131 from Oils Incorporated. Might not be considered environmentally friendly in other countries.

maxman
Sun 12 October 2008, 23:43
Hi all,

Build will begin today with full steam ahead.
Our two MultiCAM machines are now loaded quite heavily and we could really use the excess capacity the mechmate will provide.

Have ordered the Bearings form Rick at Superior Bearing. @ $ 527.72 for both sets.

Have ordered the Laser Cut components from Vulcan Steel (http://www.vulcansteel.co.za/) @ R 1829.19 per set

Will get some pics up as soon as I have something to photograph.

Cheers

edmond
Sat 18 October 2008, 06:15
Hi Rory

Is there a supplier here in SA for the Noga mister unit.We have the Trico mister unit on a Multicam at work and they are the biggest piece of ....
Good luck with your build im still in the planning process of my mechmate build.:)

Gerald D
Sat 18 October 2008, 06:50
Toolquip (http://www.toolquip.co.za/) does Noga. Don't know whether they stock something like the "Minicool (http://www.noga.com/nogaProducts.php?catID=moco)" or "Cobra (http://www.noga.com/nogaProducts.php?catID=cobr)"

While looking at Noga of Israel's stuff, everyone can look at their classic de-burring tool (http://www.noga.com/nogaProducts.php?catID=hd32). No toolbox is complete without one of those. :)

edmond
Sat 18 October 2008, 07:39
Thanks Gerald will give them a call on Monday, I didn't see anything in their catalogue though but maybe they can get it.
I agree with you about their deburring tool i use mine the whole time at work

maxman
Sun 19 October 2008, 22:54
Hi,

Yes we got ours from Tool Quip. You will just need to make a storage container for your cutting fluid. You will not belive how great those NOGA systems are after struggling with the Trico s***t for so long!.
Also check out the NOGA "coutersinks" they are super for deburring small holes.

maxman
Mon 20 October 2008, 23:22
Hi All,

Slow progress here at the moment, too much to do to make money to buy all the components, and now it seems that is will all cost even more due to the exchange rate.

I have nearly finished my wiring diagram and have ordered my steppers and breakout boards, Not sure of the final cost yet.....

I ordered two Speed control boards (serial port controlled so that they dont tie up the parellel port pins) from Sound Logic (Bob Campbell) the come in at around R 1000.00 each

I have ordered two 6Kw Fimec spindles and invertors from CNC Direct and the final cost will also depend on the exchange rate.

Lazercut parts are in and I am bending them up today. Will post some pics of them tomorrow..

javeria
Tue 21 October 2008, 05:04
Hi Rory,

I received my spindle control boards from soundlogicus.com good to know that we have more people trying this out.

looking out for mutual help!

RGDS
IRfan

maxman
Thu 13 November 2008, 09:01
Hi all, Sorry so quiet in the forum front , but I have been hard at work getting all the bit ready for the next big phase in construction.

So Far I have.

1 x main panel partly assembled
1 x Control Cabinet nearly done
2 x Machines Worth of steel cut and ready for primary assembly.

This weekend I will cut the angle rails and start the gantry assembly on Monday.

Pics so far
2609

2610

2611

More to follow soon:)

gmessler
Thu 13 November 2008, 09:23
Exceptional quality on that cabinet Rory!!:)

javeria
Thu 13 November 2008, 09:25
Hi Rory, you seem to have pretty good knowledge of electricals, can you explain in brief what other components are you using in the mains circuit apart from what is present in G' circuit diagrams and why - the reason is that I see more than one contactor are u sing one seperate for the VFD supply? and also you have used individual bridge rectifiers for each capacitor.

RGDS
IRfan

javeria
Thu 13 November 2008, 09:33
Very good cabinet, mine looks dud in front of yours :)

all the best for you build Rory.

RGDS
IRfan

Alan_c
Thu 13 November 2008, 13:51
Wow, that cabinet, thats just plain bragging :D and you will probably tell us it was made from off-cuts...;)

Where are you building these machines, that does not look like your workshop, (brighter and more spacious).

maxman
Thu 13 November 2008, 22:34
Hi all , Thanks for your good cabinet reviews:D, We buy our aluminuim in 1 ton coils so , yes in a sense I did just roll off a piece to make the cabinet. Also you must remember I have 2 MultiCAM machines to cut the panels and a whole workshop of sheetmetal workers and welders to help....

IRfan, I will compile a proper circuit diagram for you , but the reason I went for 4 rectifiers is that for the stepper drivers i am using i needed a 37 000uF Cap and i could only get 10 000uF, So i thought i might as well get 4 rectifiers as well as they are really cheap and I prefer to have a separate supply for each Driver unit.

I am not that well versed in Electronics but you dont have to know everything, but you just have to know where to look or who to ask.

P.S. Alan_c -Well spotted - we have rented the factory next door so all "skunkworks" and such happen there...

More updates on Monday.

domino11
Fri 14 November 2008, 07:25
Rory,
I would not be tempted to use four separate rectifiers and split up the capacitors like you have done. The capacitors would do you more good if wired in parallel and used to feed the motors from one large capacitor bank, rather than four smaller ones fed from. This will give you less overall ripple and noise on your power supply line. The extra rectifiers will only add more possible failure points to your circuit.

javeria
Fri 14 November 2008, 08:06
I agree with Heath, its more wiring more trouble shooting and will not serve any purpose.

better with just one rectifier with the caps wired in parallel.

RGDS
Irfan

Gerald D
Wed 18 March 2009, 09:52
Rory, long time no hear/see! Heard a rumour around town today that you are building a MM at cost for trainee boatbuilders? If that be the case...well done! :)

hennie
Wed 18 March 2009, 12:27
Would like to build my own boat !